Snowbirds Tackle Europe

Aralık 2017 - Temmuz 2025
  • Betty Foidart
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  • Kanada Kanada
  • Hollanda Hollanda
  • Almanya Almanya
  • Portekiz Portekiz
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  • Ispanya Ispanya
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  • A public swimming area. Not for me!A favourite swimming hole where we saw swirling swells a metre highMasses of these liliesA traditionalist.Quilts hanging from the ceiling of a popular restaurant.

    Island Tour - Day 1.3

    10 Şubat 2018, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The coastline is very rugged with black volcanic rock. Marco showed us several swimming areas and I couldn’t believe how unsafe they looked....rocky with huge swells. The wild white calla lilies blooming along the edge of the cliffs seemed like such a stark contrast to the black volcanic rock. Hydrangea also grow wild here but they were not in bloom.

    It was a long 8 hour tour but we saw such a variety of sights....very impressive for a small island 18 x 29 km.
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  • Marco said he felt very small standing next to John
    Checking us outA rural bull ring - a favourite summer family activityAwwww!€14 a bottle - didn't buy any but enoyed free sampleMore grapes are produced if the vines lie flat

    Island Tour - Day 1.2

    10 Şubat 2018, Portekiz ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Marco showed us a rustic bull ring that is used in the summer months. No fancy capes or professional matadors here, just crazy people antagonizing the bulls and then trying to avoid getting butted by them. It is hilarious to watch the videos, especially with the running of the bulls down the main streets, but I can’t help but think it’s very abusive of the bulls. Marco tried to agitate the bulls in the field but they didn’t respond thankfully because he said they can tear right through the volcanic stone fence that pens them in!

    We stopped at Furnas do Enxofre to see the steaming sulfur-smelling fumaroles, proof that this is a volcanic island. There was very little steam though. After this we went to the Gruta do Algar do Carvao, a natural cavity in the earth that is more vertical than the usual cave. We went down steps to 100 metres (300 feet) below the surface. The stalagmites weren’t very impressive because it is a relatively young cave. All I could think of was that I preferred we not have an earthquake while we were down there!

    Since the weather was still cooperating Marco decided to head to the coastline. We stopped at a small vineyard in Biscoitos and had a tour and free tasting of a dessert wine. It was a nice break.
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  • Simple monument but amazing viewpoint
    Praia do Vitoria - 2nd largest city in TerceiraLook....no jackets!!Aeroport das Lages and US Air Force baseDoesn't get any better than thisGreen - like our favourite Hawaiian island of Kauai

    Island Tour - Day 1.1

    10 Şubat 2018, Portekiz ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We had arranged to meet Lucinda and Mateus’s son, Marco, who was willing to provide us with a tour of Terceira. He was born in Winnipeg and spent the first 6 years of his life there so his English was very good. We agreed to a 2 day tour for €60 each and because it was a beautiful sunny, warm day he recommended we go now. So we packed a picnic lunch and were on our way to the interior of the island.

    Our first stop was the Miradoura (viewpoint) do Facho, where there is a monument of a nun who overlooks and protects the city of Praia da Vitoria. It was a gift from George Bush after the Iraq war “victory”, as there was a large US Air Force base here at the time, now reduced to about 180 servicemen and women. The views were spectacular and there were more to come. We took a short drive to another viewpoint that showed the almost deserted airbase and the very long runway for an island of this size. In 2001, an Air Transat Airbus 330 heading to Lisbon with 306 passengers ran out of fuel and glided 120 km to an emergency safe landing on this runway, beating the previous record set by the Gimli Glider incident.

    The next stop was to the 2nd highest peak on the island, Serra do Cume, at 545 metres (1800 feet). The highest peak is almost always under cloud cover. The view of the patchwork fields created by the volcanic stone walls was simply amazing but Marco said that later in the year when different crops of different colours are growing it almost looks like a patchwork quilt. This flat area is actually a caldera that stretches for 15 km.
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  • ATR72 - our 70 seater prop plane from Malaga
    Margarida's concrete houseFully equipped kitchenNo plans for any formal dinnersComfortable seatingI wanted to see how JS was going to squeeze out of that shower but got kicked out of the tiny room

    Travel Day - Malaga to Terceira

    9 Şubat 2018, Portekiz ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had an 11:15 flight to the Azores and were up early enough to walk the 20 minutes to the train station, despite the frequent “there’s a taxi!” from the person trailing behind me. The train takes you directly to the main entrance of the Malaga Airport, the 3rd largest in Spain. All this for about $3.50 each. When we were in the check-in line I struck up a conversation with the couple behind us and learned that they were from Brandon. They were also flying to Lisbon and then on to Toronto and Winnipeg, expecting a 25 hour travel day! They were about our age and had spent a month near Malaga, unfortunately being sick with some GI illness for most of the holiday. When we got to Lisbon we visited for awhile and then parted ways to head for the lounge where we could use our free passes. We had a 5 hour layover so it was a nice way to relax, eat and drink.

    Our 2.5 hour flight was full and John had the dreaded middle seat. We arrived safely around 7:30 and that’s all that really matters. The house I rented was a referral from my friend Gailene, as someone in her quilting group owned a home in Terceira. The owner, Margarida, made arrangements for her brother to pick us up at the airport at less cost than a taxi. On arrival, there was the smiling 70ish couple who greeted us with the customary two-cheek kiss. Our luggage was thrown into the open back of Lucinda and Mateus’s 19 year old Nissan truck and off we went.

    The small home is on a main road about 1 km from the nearest town, Cabo do Praia. It was very clean but the first thing we noticed was the high humidity, coolness and musty odour. Lucinda explained that she had washed all the pots and towels because they tend to get moldy. She left us some traditional cookies that she had baked in a type of wood-burning oven so that they have a smoked flavour (not my favourite cookie!). She also bought us some pastries, bread, margarine, milk and tea & coffee. What a wonderful welcome to Terceira!
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  • Flowers!! And lots of them
    Manzanilla olives were our favouriteShrimp - grilled, battered, skeweredSpain is known for their good quality hamLemon and orange trees in backyardsI don't know why you would have a craving for American processed food

    Reflections

    8 Şubat 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After spending an amazing 40 days in Espana we paused to reflect on the experience.

    People - Generally they were very friendly and helpful. Spaniards are very attractive with their dark hair and olive coloured skin tone. They are a fun-loving people and enjoy eating, drinking (beer is the most popular beverage), shopping, and singing. Despite the party atmosphere in the evenings we never witnessed public drunkenness or bar fights. They love their restaurant bar patios and will enjoy a meal outdoors even with their winter jackets on. Other than being cheated by the Barcelona taxi driver, we only had one other incident in a bakery where an elderly well-dressed woman distastefully called me an “Americano”. I corrected her but she just ignored me.

    Dogs - Dogs are free to walk unleashed, even in the downtown area of large cities. Many wise owners did use leashes. Most owners are responsible although we did notice the occasional droppings left behind.

    Fashion - Skinny pants (mostly jeans) were worn by all men and women of all ages, unless you were over 80. I felt very noticeably unfashionable in my boot cut jeans. Torn jeans are not popular. Casual dress was the norm and no one was out to impress, although that might be different during the warmer months.

    Shopping - shopping malls were rare so the people come to the centre of town to shop. There are a lot of shoe stores. The clothing stores were either poor quality, trendy shops for the young or designer shops for the wealthy. It was fun to window shop but no room for any purchases.

    Transportation- Spain has an extensive and very efficient transportation network, including inexpensive trains, buses and taxis. Connections are all time coordinated and the stations are central, often with the train and bus stations next to each other.

    Tourism - The cities we visited were mainly tourist destinations with tourism offices and lots of attraction signage, although sometimes even that wasn’t enough for these direction-challenged tourists.

    Food & wine - We’ve rediscovered our love of olives and almonds. There was only one bottle of wine that I didn’t like....one out of many! We enjoyed fresh fish and seafood. The locally grown clementine and mandarin oranges were the best. We came to love tapas, although at first it was difficult to order the right number of tapas. We quickly adapted our meal times to the local tradition. Breakfast is whenever you wake up; lunch is from 2-5 at which time the restaurant closes; and dinner is from 8 pm onwards. We quickly learned that if you arrive before 8 they won’t be open but if you arrive at 8:30 or 9 they will be full and you will disappointedly end up eating at the local pizza joint!

    Weather - From what the locals and other regular tourists have told us, Spain is experiencing a colder than normal winter and they aren’t very happy about it, and nor were we. We had plenty of sunshine but it was a cool daytime high of 8 degrees in Madrid and a moderate 13-15 degrees in the Costa del Sol. We won’t even talk about the blizzard in Segovia! A breeze off the Mediterranean meant it was time to get out the puffy down jacket again. Rarely did the weather stop us from any activities.

    Overall we loved Spain!
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  • Street art everywhere
    Centre Pompidou fine art galleryYummy roasted almonds - €5 for .25 kgMalaga Cathedral chimed every half hourCalle Larios dressed up for CarnivalA small hotel which made me curious about the interior

    Malaga - a Pleasant Surprise

    8 Şubat 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    When planning our itinerary I chose Malaga as I wanted a few more days in the Costa del Sol, hoping for warm weather. I also chose it because we would be departing Spain from the Malaga Airport. Apparently Malaga was a rough port city but has spruced itself up in recent years. So we were surprised how much we enjoyed our stay here. The city has 38 museums, people who seem to be always on the move, and a thriving night scene. I enjoyed walking through the narrow winding streets of the historic area where we stayed. The Mercado was a good destination to buy fresh fruit and almonds. They have the most delicious roasted almonds that are produced here. Cruise ships stop here so the waterfront has been redeveloped with a wide promenade to walk along. From start to finish, we were very pleased with the locations we stayed at.Okumaya devam et

  • The food stays hot through to the end
    It's always hard to get John to keep his hands off for a secondTea came with 3 small Moroccan dessertsToo much liquor in this sangria - €4

    A Welcome Break from Homecooking

    8 Şubat 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    As in most Spanish cities we visited, there is an over abundance of tempting restaurants and cafes that line the streets and plaza. Since our time in Spain was coming to an end, we decided to splurge and go out for dinner on two occasions. I had been wanting to eat in a Moroccan restaurant and found a highly rated one, Al Jamal. John was skeptical, as he can sometimes be, but we had the best experience. There were only 5 tables and they filled quickly. I had fish cooked in a tanjin and John had some kind of beef couscous dish, both delicious. We tried mint tea with orange blossom served in those fancy silver pots but it was too sweet for us. Cost of the meal was around $45, which included wine and dessert. The owner served us a complimentary shooter size glass of dessert wine from northern Spain as well. I think he appreciated the interest we showed in his food and customs.

    Our next choice was a recommendation from my timeshare group, a seafood restaurant called El Meson Cervantes. John enjoyed his seafood tapas and I had grilled sea bass. Again they were delicious. People around us were eating strange looking seafood, like octopus and squid. Because the tables in Spanish restaurants are usually crammed together with about one foot space apart, we ended up spending the evening with a couple our age from Denmark. They were very friendly and we had an interesting conversation throughout the meal. So, another good choice! This meal was around $60, still very reasonable for the quality of food.

    We had beautiful weather on our last afternoon so we stopped for sangria and two tapas. It was so enjoyable to sit on the plaza in the sunshine and listen to the buskers. We felt we had to take advantage of the warm afternoon sun, which has been rare.
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  • Unimpressive exterior
    The monks must have been on crackThe gold cross is the only colour in the cryptThe real Santa Maria is getting a facelift so this is a fill-inOne stained glass depicts a pregnant Mary, the only one of its kind in the worldEntrance to the hospital with a very strong disinfectant odour

    Not Just Another Basilica

    8 Şubat 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    In my research I came across glowing reviews of a little known church in Malaga, the Basilica Real Santuario de Santa Maria de la Victoria. Since we had seen many traditional and impressive cathedrals we chose this one to visit. There was only one other English speaking visitor on our tour and our guide was obviously a devout Christian from the detailed explanations he gave. He took us into a blackened room and then he threw the light switch. We were in the crypt, a black and white morbid room with skeletons, the devil and a story of each symbol. An aristocratic couple from Italy paid a good sum of money to the monks to have the crypt and church built so they would be guaranteed a final resting place. The monks alone did the design and the couple never did get buried there because they died in Italy. Being in that room felt like a bad dream or the set of a horror movie.

    The guide then took us up the stairs to the sanctuary, which he called the Heavenly Glory. He swings the doors open and now we are behind the altar. It was breathtaking! It took the monks seven years to create this space. The contrast of one area to the next was intentional because the monks wanted to convey heaven and hell, to entice people to make wise choices in their lives. They also designed the plain exterior to emphasize that you can’t tell a book from its cover. The guide then directed us to the side of the basilica to see where the monks once lived, which has now become a hospital. He told us that very few people visit the basilica so I promised to write a review on Trip Advisor, for which he was grateful.
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  • Pablo Picasso and me
    Picasso's residence, now a museumRomans and Moors - John is the historianLooks so sad but he insists this is his reflection poseNice views, this one of the bull ringThe cute little ones were trying to do the moves

    Pablo and Palaces

    7 Şubat 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Since the Picasso Museum was just across the street it seemed the obvious place to start our day. The building was once a palace and Picasso’s daughter-in-law and grandson donated the money to establish the museum. It was completed in 2003 and only holds about 200 paintings and ceramics. I did learn two things about Picasso’s art. Firstly, he loved birds and animals and his artwork often depicted doves, which has become the universal symbol of peace. He also explained that his art was influenced by the infant looking at his mother, where the babe could only focus on one feature of the mother’s face because it would appear so large to the child. I’ll wait to see if the daughter-in-law/art teacher corrects me on these tidbits of information! It was an interesting museum but underwhelming since his more famous pieces have been dispersed around the world.

    After a light lunch in the apartment we headed down the street to see the Roman ruins and the Alcazar (fortress). The moors didn’t take good care of the ruins so there isn’t much left of them. The palace inside the fortress also has not been maintained, unlike the others we have visited, but you can still see the same elements. There was a nice view from up there and we could have climbed to the higher fortress but someone didn’t feel all that energetic. When we came out of the Alcazar there was a dance school doing a dance demonstration. They had a lot of rhythm and energy!
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  • Compact compared to previous 2 bedroom unitUnusual bed - like sleeping in the VixenThe best tapasA chilly Carnival - only 8 degreesPolitically incorrect costumes

    Travel Day - Fuengirola to Malaga

    4 Şubat 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Check out time was 10 a.m. and the sky was dark, threatening to rain. Standing at the bus stop on the side of the highway with our luggage didn’t seem like a good idea considering the imminent rain, so we splurged on a taxi ride to the train station. It was only €10 more than what the bus fare would have been and a whole lot easier. The 45 minute train ride to Malaga went smoothly as we had done the trip before. Our biggest challenge of the day was to find our hotel. My data plan had expired so my cell phone was useless and we had no map so I was relying on the directions I had researched the night before. I asked a lady walking her dog for directions and soon learned she had sent us the opposite way. Recalculating....as my old GPS would always tell me. Once we found our way to the Centro part of town, we came across a protest march. Thinking this was political we were going to do our best to avoid it but then as we got closer we realized there were at least a hundred dogs and their owners calmly protesting against hunting and promoting vegetarianism! There was a lot of barking so I’m assuming the dogs were voicing their agreement. One more stop at the Tourist Information office that we were relieved to find and we reached our destination....Picasso Suites Malaga.

    We are staying in a studio apartment that is across the street from the Picasso Museum. Each suite has been given the name of one of Picasso’s paintings and is furnished to reflect that piece of artwork. Ours is done in white and gold with a huge Picasso painting on one wall. We have a small balcony that overlooks the street. There is usually a busker below us so we get free entertainment! We’re in a great location in the midst of tapas bars, shops, museums and churches.

    Now we feel like we are back in the authentic Spain. We hear the odd British accent and a few German ones but the majority are Spanish and very few speak English. Population of Malaga is 260,000, but 1.3 million in the metro area. Although it’s supposed to be the sunniest area of Spain, it rained quite heavily after we had enjoyed a great tapas lunch. We walked for awhile in the rain because it was the beginning of Carnival week and there were all kinds of groups dressed up in costumes. The group would randomly stop and perform, usually singing. It was cold and wet and I felt sad that the weather had interfered with their fun, although they were doing their best to ignore it.
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