• Michael and Helen Cook

Mexico to Brazil

An 8 month journey travelling from Mexico City through Central America and South America to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil Read more
  • Laguna Llaca

    June 13, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    So we hired a car (with driver) for the day (for about £45) to visit the remote Laguna Llaca which is known to be a good place for finding High Andean birds. Standard tours (which cost about £10 don’t go here). Llaca is pronounced Yaca as double L is pronounced y in Spanish.

    It took over two hours of dirt roads to get there as one road was blocked with roadworks. The driver kept stopping asking locals for directions which inspired confidence.

    The Laguna itself was very close to the glacier and we walked across the moraine and took some photos of the mountain and glacier. Every so often we would hear a crevasse colapse and a small avalanche.

    We did see some new birds which was nice and very much enjoyed this remote location. We also saw numerous Viscachas, mammals that look like rabbits but are no relation and are about 3-4 times the size.

    There were very few people here (only 3 cars through the gate at the bottom of the valley).

    We have very much enjoyed the mountains in this area but are about to move on to Lima (the capital and at sea level too) as we catch an 8.5 hour bus in just over an hour.
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  • Views from the bus

    June 14, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We have just taken the bus to Lima from Huaraz, it took about 8 hours.

    We peaked at 4,100m and then turned west to take a long valley down to the coast before heading down the Pan American Highway to Lima arriving in the evening. Here are a few photos from the journey showcasing central Peru in its wild rawness.Read more

  • Lima

    Jun 14–17, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So we arrived in Lima yesterday evening and as is now our practice with cities we book a walking tour with a local guide. These are always free with a recommended tip. As well as showing you the sites we enjoy hearing a local perspective on the city, culture, politics etc.

    Lima is a lot busier than Quito was with over 20 people on the English tour and double that on the Spanish tour.
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  • Peruvian food

    June 16, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Peru has a strong reputation for it’s cuisine. So it only seemed right that Lima was a good place to try some local dishes and for me (Helen) to do another cooking class.

    Two classic dishes are:
    Causa - a potato based dish layered with chicken, fish or seafood
    Ceviche - cured fish or seafood

    Yesterday after our walking tour we sampled both these dishes and they were delicious. Later that evening we ate at a local Peruvian restaurant.

    Then today I took a cooking course and learned how to make Causa and Ceviche, along with Pisco Sour. Pisco is a grape brandy (both Peru and Chile claim to have been the first to make it) and Pisco Sour is a cocktail made from this.

    I think we could find all the ingredients at home so you may get to try these dishes for yourself!
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  • Finding Penguins

    June 18, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    So we are now in Paracas and we took a boat trip to visit the Islas Ballestas. Known for hosting lots of sea lions and sea birds including the Humboldt Penguin.

    The boat trip was a couple of hours and we saw a 170m high Geoglyph too (likely 200 BC) but could be 18th C fake.

    New birds including the Penguin, Black Oystercatcher and lovely Inca Terns. Lots of Peruvian Pelicans and Peruvian Boobies too.

    The Sea Lions here are attracted to the fishing boats and nets and features in a recent Planet Earth episode.
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  • Paracas NP by Dune Buggy

    June 18, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    So this afternoon for something different, we took a Dune Buggy tour for two hours to visit Paracas National Park. This is a desert landscape jutting out into the ocean with some interesting bays and beaches.

    We didn’t go crazy off roading as it is a national park but we did feel the wind in our hair and sand in our face as we reved around the dirt tracks stopping to see the sights.

    On the way back we saw a flock of Chilean Flamingos which was another new bird, albeit more when we go south.
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  • Huacachina

    June 20, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    So we are now in Huacachina a desert oasis in Peru. It is amazing the difference the Homboldt current makes that instead of being rainforest like Colombia was, Peru is mostly desert this side of the Andes. All due to a cool ocean current travelling up Chile and Peru’s coast.

    Yesterday after we arrived we had a relaxing afternoon around the oasis only climbing a sand dune for the sunset. Today we took a dune buggy ride and did some sand boarding (basically sledging on sand) and again enjoyed a lovely sunset,

    A lovely place with lots of energy including school kids on school trips. Very different to anywhere else we have been on this trip.
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  • Nazca Lines flight

    June 24, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    In the 1930s with the advent of commercial flying pilots started reporting massive pictures they could see from the air around Nazca.

    Archeologists came and identified over 300 such lines, pictures or shapes dating from 200 BCE to 500 CE. Many theories abound as to why the ancient Nazca civilisation made these designs. To aid with navigation, for ceremonials purposes or as an offering to the gods. They are hardly visible from the ground so the last of these gets my vote.

    We took a 35 minute flight over the lines seeing about 15 clear pictures and numerous other shapes and lines. The largest figures are about 370m long - the size of Empire States Building on its side.
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  • Arequipa - the White City

    June 25, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After our time in Nazca we got the overnight bus to Arequipa arriving about 10am this morning, mostly rested.

    We watched the England football game before taking a tour of the historic centre this afternoon.

    Arequipa is supposed to be the prettiest city in Peru and is a UNESCO world heritage site for its colonial architecture. We enjoyed the sites of the square and various churches particularly around sunset. The city is surrounded by volcanoes and mountains which adds to the setting.

    An indigenous family had brought a cute baby alpaca and lamb in for photos. The alpaca was only one month old.

    Meanwhile I keep working on my new party trick - solving the Rubik’s cube.

    Tomorrow we are heading 4 hours north to the Colca Canyon in the search of Andean Condor.
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  • Patapampa Pass

    June 26, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Yesterday we drove over the Patapampa Pass to get from Arequipa to Chivay the gateway to the Colca Canyon.

    On the journey we saw all four species of camalids found in Peru. Farmed Llamas and Alpacas but also many wild Vicuñas and very distant Guanacos too.

    The scenery was stunning too as we climbed to 4900m. I (Michael) purchased a lovely and warm Alpaca wool hat as it got cold at the top too.
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  • Colca Canyon & Condors

    Jun 27–28, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Yesterday we continued into Colca Canyon. Humans have lived here for 8,000 years and the amazing system of terracing and irrigation was impressive to see.

    I was particularly interested in seeing the wildlife and in particular the Andean Condor. This is the largest bird of prey in the world with a wingspan of 3.3m or 10 feet. We saw many of them flying sometimes very close by - a wonderful experience.

    We are now back in Arequipa which had a small earthquake last night (we slept through it) but some damage near the epicentre (magnitude 7). We have also abandoned plans to go to La Paz in a few days due to an attempted coup there. We will have an extra week in Peru instead.
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  • Climbing Chachani, 6075m

    Jun 30–Jul 1, 2024 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 -15 °C

    Over the last two days, I (Michael) climbed a local 6075m (almost but not quite 20,000 feet) volcano called Chachani.

    We set off at 7.30am by 4x4 and drove for three hours into the wilderness and got dropped at 4900m. We saw a family of Guanaco on the drive in (rare relative to llama).

    We had a couple of hours hike to the base camp at 5100m. Our group was a lovely Frenchman called Sebastian and our guide Edmundo. We kept seeing Andean Foxes around the camp. We tried to go to sleep at 6pm with limited results as the alarm was set for 1.30am

    The next morning we set out at 2am after a simple bread and cheese breakfast. Whilst I suffered no altitude sickness, the thin air was a huge factor. There is less than half the oxygen here that you have at sea level. Simple tasks like tying your shoelace or getting dressed leave you out of breath.

    It was a slow plod all the way as you simply couldn’t go faster (see video). It was cold too with -15C temperature. We had to work hard to keep hands and feet from going numb. I wasn’t entirely successful and have frost nip in my right hand but trust it will recover in a few days.

    I think this is the hardest thing I have ever done. Plodding in the dark to cover 1000m ascent in 5 hours. To put that in perspective I could do it in 2 hours in Scotland. But here I was always out of breath and my heart was beating like a train because of the altitude.

    I was far from certain I would make it. Our group of two (plus guide) overtook a group of 10 on the first part of the climb. We both made it but only two from the other group summited. So 4/12 made it on the day. I did consider giving up about half way.

    After reaching the summit and taking some photos we made a fairly quick descent (2 hours). I was completely exhausted by the end of the walk out.
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  • Tours, markets and chocolate

    June 30, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    So whilst Michael was climbing Chachani I spend some time exploring Arequipa. Not too many photos as Michael had the phone.

    I started with a walking tour of the city. It is always interesting hearing the history from a local’s perspective. Seeing how the architecture is influenced by the need to resist earthquakes. Seeing how art reflects the merging of cultures - for example a painting of the last supper with chicha (a local drink) and guinea pig. A beautiful view of Misti mountain framed by the cathedral.

    Then an explore of the local market for lunch and delicious juices (photos taken later when returned with Michael). And true head to tail cooking with EVERY part of the animal available.

    Later I took a chocolate workshop. For the Inca people chocolate was medicinal and they make a tea from the husks of the beans. Interesting to compare to the Mayan and Aztecs where it was ceremonial and they made a drink from a paste made from the beans.

    Finally enjoyed watching England win with Sam (albeit virtually).
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  • Uros Floating Islands

    July 3, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Today we visited the Uro people on their floating islands on Lake Titicaca. This is often quoted as the highest navigable lake in the world. At 3,809m it is certainly high but the previous ferry crossing from Peru to Bolivia has now retired.

    History says that when the Inca empire peaked the Uro people were shy and avoided conflict. So they abandoned the land and instead created artificial islands out of reeds. Their lifestyle grew to embrace the lake as the source of their needs - reeds for building, water for drinking, fish for eating etc.

    The community is growing and numbers nearly 6,000 on 120 islands. Each island has its own president (leader) elected from the families. On the island we visited he welcomed us and told us how the islands are made. We saw them cooking and went on a ride on their reed boat and saw them collecting reeds.

    A fascinating way of life and people. They do now have solar panels and both a primary and high school on the reed islands and a health clinic.
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  • Taquile Island

    July 3, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We also visited another island on Lake Titicaca called Taquile island. This is a natural island with a population of 2,800 people. There are no roads or engines on the island.

    We were welcomed by some families who demonstrated weaving and knitting (the men knit, the woman weave). We also listened to their music and got pulled into the dancing

    We heard how they operate as a community. No one owns land ( the community owns the island). Their clothes demonstrate if they are married or single. They operate community justice sorting things out on the island without reference to the mainland police.

    They survive on fishing, farming and hosting tourists and selling handicrafts. With the Uro (last post) and here it was clear to us that they were putting on a show for the tourists (music and craft sales) but also this was how they genuinely lived and it was a gift to see this.

    From the top of the island we could see Bolivian mainland and the Isla del Sol.
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  • Birding on Manu Road

    Jul 6–9, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We spent 4 days travelling to the east of the Andes from Cusco to visit the range of habitats from Cloud Forest to Bamboo Forest to Tropical Rain Forest.

    It was a long four days but we added another 132 lifers and also saw 3 new species of Monkey and other interesting wildlife.

    Our guide Simon was an indigenous Quechua and really knew the jungle. A joy to get to know him.

    The accommodation was basic and we were pretty much cut off from the outside world. We were very tired on our return to Cusco but a great experience.

    At one lodge we met a wild but friendly Toucan that seemed to enjoy coffee! (See video).

    More info with blog. www.wildscot.blog
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  • Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley

    July 11, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    Today we took a four hour minibus ride to visit the Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley. The roadworks (very loud pneumatic drill) outside our hotel all night didn’t prepare us well for the 4.45am start.

    This was a nice warm up trek for the 4 day Inca Trek we are doing in a couple of days and took us to 5,045m above sea level.

    The Rainbow Mountain was heaving with lots of people but there was hardly anyone at the Red Valley and it was nice to get away from the crowds.

    An eventful minibus ride back as first a car drove into the back of the minibus and then we got stopped by the police who were doing an immigration check.
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  • Inca Trek

    Jul 13–16, 2024 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    So we have just come back from a fantastic 4 day Inca Trek to Machu Picchu.

    On day 1 we hiked from the sacred valley to up to our campsite at 3,300m. Day 2 was a big day climbing over two high passes at 4,200m and then again to 4,000m. It then was easier on the descent through cloud forest.

    It was lovely to go through several different habitats from High Andes to Cloud Forest and Tropical Rainforest. We saw many birds including distant condors.

    Another them was each day coming across impressive Inca Ruins on this highway of the Incas.

    It was nice being with the same group for 4 days and getting to know other hikers from several countries.

    Next post will share Machu Picchu itself.
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  • Machu Picchu

    July 16, 2024 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    The Inca Trek was originally a highway linking Cusco and Machu Picchu, whilst today it is a hiking route that ends at this famous UNESCO site which is one of the 7 wonders of the world.

    We were up at 3.15 to start our hike aiming to get to the Sun Gate for sunrise. As you can see from the photo many other hikers did the same!

    After an hour hiking at speed under head torch we arrived at the Sun Gate for amazing views of Machu Picchu. After we regrouped we headed down into the site with amazing views from the top that day guests would never see.

    The site was impressive albeit crowded compared to our more remote sites on the trek. The Incas abandoned Machu Picchu after the Spanish arrived and it was forgotten about until 1911 when it was rediscovered. About 1,000 elite lived here with the Inca ruler visiting twice a year. It was an amazing achievement to build this site in such a remote exposed mountaintop.

    After a tour of the site we got the bus into nearby town had lunch and got a train back to civilization.

    We now have a rest day in Cusco to repack before heading to the Amazon for 6 days where we expect no internet access.
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  • Rio Madre de Dios

    Jul 18–20, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We started our journey into the Amazon with a 12 hour bus ride then a two and a half hour boat trip on the Madre de Dios river (Mother of God).

    We then stayed two nights at the Tree House Inn staying in a tree house as the name suggested. Apart from the ocasional run in with poisonous spiders and ants in our tree house, it was lovely.

    We went on a night safari a couple of times seeing lots of creatures you wouldn’t see in the day - Crickets, Spiders, Frogs, a Snake.

    We also went river tubing as this tributary was too small for caymen or piranhas so this was safe to do.

    Upon leaving Treehouse Inn we had another 12 hour boat ride down the Madre de Dios (mother of God river) until it met the larger Manu River when we turned upstream into the Manu National Park - see next post.

    This stretch of river has been in the news recently as a previously uncontacted tribe (Matsigenka Tribe) had been coming to the shore of the river which is highly unusual. Amazingly we saw two groups from this un-contacted tribe (see photos), the men appeared friendly (waved) and the women and children a bit scared. Amazing to see them and share a moment in the heart of the Amazon Rainforest. I wonder what they thought of us cruising by on our motorboat? We reported our sighting at the government control point. To avoid contact and possible conflict they have banned all tourist groups landing on the inhabited side of the river.
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  • Manu National Park

    Jul 20–22, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The Manu National Park is deep in the Amazon Rainforest. It took two long days to get in and the same to get out and there is no quicker option available in an emergency which is why our guide carried an anti-venom kit and we all wore rubber boots!

    It is also pristine primary rainforest and a UNESCO protected biosphere and world heritage site.

    We were here for the wildlife and were pleased to see about 35 new species of birds, 8 species of Monkey plus Capybara, Tapir, Giant Anteater and a family of Giant River Otters. Alas no Jaguar or Anaconda this time.

    We had a wonderful chef with us who prepared lovely cooked meals on the boat.

    These were hard and long days and you had to work hard for the wildlife sightings but it was an amazing experience to be deep in the Amazon Jungle for 6 days.

    I am writing this once we are back in Cusco and indeed at the airport about to fly to Chile.
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  • Cusco and Goodbye Peru

    July 24, 2024 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We have used Cusco as our base for birding the Manu Road, doing the Inca Trek and then heading to the Amazon Rainforest. Altogether we have had four short stays here.

    It is a lovely city which we haven’t hugely explored but here are some pics of what we did see.

    Since we are about to leave Peru (for Chile) I thought I had better post. I attach a brief highlights video of our 7 weeks in Peru
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  • Atacama Desert

    Jul 28–Aug 3, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Yesterday we arrived in the Atacama Desert, the driest place on earth. We picked up our 4x4 pickup and did some food shopping. Then moved to our accommodation - an apartment in the sticks.

    Today we planned to go to some lagoons but they were closed. So instead we visited an old beat up bus nicknamed the Magic Bus and then took a walk in Mars Valley.

    Poor Sam caught a head cold on the flight and with the altitude isn’t feeling great. Hopefully he will be better soon.

    Tonight we are taking an astronomy session which should be really interesting.
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  • More Atacama and El Tatio Geysers

    August 1, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We have spent the last few days chilling with Sam but also getting out and exploring some of the sights around here.

    We visited a lagoon with lots of flamingos (Andean, Chilean and James’). We also had a night observing the stars on an Astro tour which included looking through the largest private telescope in the world at another galaxy.

    We went out to watch the sunset over the impressive valley of the moon. And then today we took a long dirt track to 4,300m to see the El Tatio Geyser field - over 85 active geysers over a 10km square area. More wildlife too and a walk in this barren habitat.
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