• Tige
  • Jocelyn Cooper
Julai 2024

Croatia and Hungary

Pengembaraan 14hari oleh Tige & Jocelyn Baca lagi
  • Permulaan perjalanan
    13 Julai 2024

    Croatia

    13 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Elliot finished school last week and the boys' last day was Thursday so we have been counting the days until we could travel again. We had plenty of time to pack yesterday and this morning for our 1500 flight out of Heathrow. The direct flight to Dubrovnik was smooth and we took a waiting van to our Airbnb about 30 minutes north into Dubrovnik. It was 88 degrees when we landed! The kids said they felt like they were back in Texas.
    After dropping our things at our Airbnb, we immediately headed out for the local market before they closed and then went out to dinner for some seafood. Back home to sleep before an early day tomorrow - it's going to be hot! Excited to see the Old Town... and the beach!
    Baca lagi

  • Dubrovnik

    14 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ 🌙 81 °F

    Today was a good day. We discovered that we have completely lost our Texas bred heat tolerance. So hot today. I could only bring travel size sunscreen (to get started) because we just carried on and we slathered up and headed out around 830. We are a 30 min walk from the old city and headed there to meet for our Game of Thrones tour. We watched all 8 seasons and a lot of it was filmed in Croatia. The locations were very cool to see (but the kids were a bit lost). Still cool to see the forts and fortresses around the city. Your guide was great but it was so hot! The old city has cool old huge fountains for water refills and we definitely drank our share. After the tour we found delicious gelato (mango and coconut were highlights per usual) and then we went to the maritime museum included on our pass to escape the heat. No air con, but a bench will do. They had a cool kids area that the boys loved. After we left there we went to lunch at a delicious Mediterranean spot called
    Dubrovka 1836. The kids had pizza and a schnitzel and Tige and I shared an octopus salad and hot veggies that were super yummy. Bread, beer and an aperol spritz rounded out the meal. After lunch we made our way to Banje beach and spent 2.5 hours in the Adriatic Sea. So lovely and refreshing. Kids were desperate for the water. We changed and headed back to town to climb the stairs to the wall around the town. A very cool 2km walk around the old town. I will admit that I was 100% done by the end (esp after having Covid last week) and demanded a cab home. We made it back, had showers and Tige went out for groceries. Kids ate and passed out and we finished what is at this time a heartbreaker for England. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 tomorrow we head to our island hang!
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  • Korčula

    15 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    We had another full day today. After breakfast, we packed up our bags for a 10 am checkout and walked to Bellevue Beach about 10 minutes away in Dubrovnik. It was a secluded beach behind a hotel off the rocks and was just what we needed early in the morning. It was 90 by the time we got in the water and the temperature was perfect, just like yesterday. It's surprisingly easy to float in the sea too. We got to spend about 90 minutes before we headed back to pick up our luggage at our Airbnb and took an Uber to the ferry port. We had a wonderful lunch across the street (pizzas and a burrito and tuna salad) before boarding the 2.5 hour ferry to Korčula island. Between the sun and meclizine, most of us fell asleep on the calm boat ride. We arrived in Korčula at about 1630 and took a cab to our Airbnb 10 minutes away. We pulled up to meet the owner who owns the house next door and she showed us around one of the best Airbnbs we have been to. We found it at a discount since it had no reviews but it is perfect for us and even nicer than the pictures with great finishes and even a garden with swings and a firepit grill and then she gave us a brand new bike and a stand-up paddleboard to use while we are here. The best part was when she walked us 100 meters down to the beach with a restaurant shack for dinner and drinks. After unpacking and shopping, we changed back to beach clothes and took the kids down to the water. It is a great spot with lots of kids and an entire campground with lots of tent campers nearby. The SUP was a hit with all three kids and it was hard to pull them out of the water for burgers for dinner. We let them get back in afterward for 15 minutes as the sun went down. Home for showers and straight to their (bunk) beds while we watch the Bear before falling asleep. Apparently, a donut and fresh fish truck is coming by tomorrow... should be an interesting combination.Baca lagi

  • Korčula Town & Vrbovika, Korčula

    17 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Tuesday we woke up to our beautiful new place and Lucy (the owner) dropped us in town to explore. We shopped and walked the streets of old town, which is also a walled city. Gideon needed a Croatian football kit and Elliot found some local coral earrings. We had lunch on the water- yummy mussels, calamari, risotto and sandwich and enjoyed the view. Gelato and a walk up to more shops where we picked up some balls for the water and food to grill for dinner. We came home and swam until dinner. I think we all had the best nights sleep that we have had in weeks.

    Today was a chill beach day, much needed by all. Even the kids said that this was one of the best days so far. We had brunch and then spent the day at the beach. It was much more quiet today which was perfect and we each had nice paddle boarding rides, snorkeling and swimming. Gid found a sea urchin and we enjoyed the coral and fish swimming around us. It is difficult to capture the color and clarity of the water. Everywhere you swim, no matter how deep, you can see clear to the bottom. So beautiful. We had a picnic lunch and read and hung out.

    For dinner we went to the other little spot by our house. Homemade noodles and beef, chicken burgers, hamburgers with house cut fries and homemade buns as the sun set on our last day in our little off the beaten path place. Home for showers and snuggles before bed.
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  • Split

    18 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    We had to set an alarm and pack up from our favorite Airbnb this morning. We made it out by 10 though and got to spend another 90 minutes at our beach.
    More SUP, snorkeling (Gideon found €10 at the bottom yesterday!) and swimming out past the buoys before we went back to change and our host offered to drive us to the ferry. Korčula (korch-u-la) was beautiful and we are already making mental plans to return which is rare for us. The ferry was hot and made only one stop but it was at a popular island and it became very crowded for the last hour of the 2.5hr trip but fortunately, no sea sickness. We finally made it to Split . According to our previous GoT guide, Split was simply a port city that allowed access to the other islands using the ferry until Game of Thrones came here and made it famous. It was a pretty busy city today. We found a bus that took us right to our apartment and took a break and enjoyed the air conditioning. We are still Americans. After some FaceTime to wish happy birthday to our mothers, we changed and headed out for some dinner in the town center. We found an amazing seafood restaurant and spoiled ourselves with ceviche, tuna, and amberjack... all very delicious. Then we walked the main drag toward the bay (after gelato, of course) and around the center of town (magnet shopping, our go-to souvenir) before catching another bus back home at 2100. We made it home and hit the market across the street for breakfast food and snacks with only 6 minutes to go before closing. It was like being in a game show. Back home to shower the salt and sweat off before bed. Up early for a speedboat tour to one more tiny island and snorkeling. 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms are a nice bonus in Split.Baca lagi

  • Split, Trogir, Blue Lagoon

    19 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    Today was another scorching day in Split. Luckily we had planned a boat/sightseeing/snorkeling trip and we were up early for breakfast and the walk to the pier to meet our crew at 9:30 am. Our captain was a super fun guy called Ivan and we went out with 3 other couples and 1 other teen for a half day of fun. First, we drove for about 30 minutes in the speedboat. The boys were laid out on the back deck, living their best lives. We arrived at Trogir, a small city on a small peninsula that is >2000 years old. There was a crumbling fortress called Kula Kamerlengo to see, but we spent most of our time walking the narrow stone streets. We did some shopping and when they said that this city was known to have one of the oldest gelaterias in Europe, we knew what we were having for second breakfast. Side note: Croatia's gelato is good, but no match for Italy/Sicily - still the winners of the 'best gelato in the world' contest. After the stop, we hopped back on the boat and cool captain Gideon drove the boat to the next spot (while requesting and singing It's Time by Imagine Dragons). I was never that cool at 9 YO. We ended up in a beautiful blue cove with clear cool water to jump into from the boat and snorkeling. We snorkeled there for about an hour and then were back on the boat for a snack, and drinks, and then on to the Blue Lagoon, a popular boating and snorkeling spot. Captain Hudson drove this time and the rest of us just enjoyed the ride. We swam from the boat to a spot between 2 islands where you could touch on the rocks and scoped out sea urchins and fish. Tige realized that he lost his sunglasses on the swim (not sure why he was swimming with them:) and somehow, just as we had given up and were nearly back to the boat, Gideon dived down about 12 feet and found them near an anchored boat. I wouldn't have believed it if I weren't there. We sped back to the marina and arrived a bit late at around 3 pm. We ended up grabbing food at the market for a picnic and ate on a bench with the pigeons nearby. I thought that I was grabbing a bit of butter for the bread and when I opened it it had the most terrible stench. Maslac = butter, but what I had grabbed adjacent to the butter was kvasac, which was yeast. So gross that it makes Marmite look appetizing.

    After that, we walked for about 20 minutes to one of the rare sand beaches. It was fine (but I was done with the sun) but I think that we all agree that we prefer pebble beaches to sand in Croatia. It keeps the water so pristine and beautiful. We walked home and showered and Tige and I went around the corner and picked up sandwiches, wings, and fries and we ate and hung out, introducing them to Batman Begins. Tomorrow we have our last hours in Split and then grabbing a rental car and heading inland.
    Baca lagi

  • Two days in Rakovica

    21 Julai 2024, Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Yesterday we rented a car and made a 3-hour trip into the heart of the Croatian countryside for a memorable part of the holiday. We arrived at our BNB outside Plitvice National Park (the true destination) and it was exactly as advertised. The 2 bedroom apartment was incredibly cheap, but clean and had everything that we needed. It is also a small local honey operation, complete with Aphytherapy. Essentially you sit in a little room and hook up a breathing apparatus to a busy hive and breathe in a certain way to reap the benefits. It is supposed to be good for the immune system, the longs, etc (as long as you aren't allergic to bees, otherwise catastrophe ensues). I don't think any of our lives were changed, but it will be one of those weird stories from their childhood. We went to dinner down the road and crashed early because we had a 7-8 am entry to the national park.

    Plitvice National Park is an insanely beautiful park with pristine turquoise lakes and waterfalls. We elected the 5-mile hike, through boardwalks around the lower lakes, across a massive lake by boat and then a second hike around the upper lakes. The latter were my favorite, not a bad view or picture to be had. We had a picnic lunch and finished much earlier than we thought. We checked our a few options (ziplines, activity parks) but ended up taking Sharon's advice and settled on a rafting trip (after calling to confirm that it was ok for the kids). We signed up for the 3-7 pm trip and grabbed our suits and swim shoes and headed about 20 minutes up the road. We joined 2 families from Norway and one that did not speak any English, put on our helmets and life jackets and drove about 30 minutes to the Mrežnica river. The tour was in raft kayaks and Tige and Hudson went in one, Gid and I in another, and one of the kind Norwegians went with Elliot. The river was clear and cool and the guide was helpful and helped position us for sliding down 9 waterfalls (the 10th we did on our own). We started early by jumping from a 23-foot waterfall and everyone did it! Hudson and Elliot joined brave Gideon and Mom and Dad went over also. Sadly, my Apple watch did not survive the jump and was discovered to be missing about 30 minutes later. Tige's died when we were swimming in Dubrovnik, so this has been a poor showing for Apple watches all around.

    Gideon was the laziest partner :) and after we hit the spring-fed freezing cold section he and H swapped boats to help me out at the end. We tumbled down the past few waterfalls and a couple of small rapids and brought the kayaks ashore. It was a super fun spur-of-the-moment way to spend the afternoon. We stopped for dinner at a local spot and found 1 euro ice cream for the drive home. We visited with the owner Brigita and their sweet pup Bella and then went up for showers and bed.
    Baca lagi

  • 24 hours in Zagreb

    23 Julai 2024, Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    We arrived in Zagreb yesterday afternoon. Tige went to return the rental car and I waited to meet our host to get into the apartment. It was older but spacious, and had enough beds for us all. We walked around the lower town and grabbed sandwiches for lunch at Pingvin, which were really good. We tried to go to several museums, the cathedral, a couple of churches and the stone gate. Everything that we tried other than the very subtle stone gates was either closed on Monday or closed permanently. St. Mark’s church had a beautifully tiled roof, which I suspect we will see more of as we head to Budapest. We went to a small museum of illusion and Elliot and Tige tried to solve the puzzle of the Hanoi tower. Gid and I went to the gift shop to solve wooden puzzles. An hour later they had done it.

    We walked through parks and the capital city is really pretty. We found an Indian restaurant and ate outside. The food was amazing! We went home full and ready for showers and bed.

    This morning we checked out and took our luggage to the train station to store and went out to see a few more things. First stop was the Nicola Tesla museum. It was really a museum about energy transformation through the years/decades and the evolution of electricity and energy efficiency. I thought it was really interesting and Tesla was an incredible guy, but I think I enjoyed it more than the others. We left there and walked 20 min to Kai Street food, which was freaking delicious. We had Bao buns with beef and pork tacos. Elliot had a chicken sandwich meal that was also a star. I love when we try things that are a bit out of the ordinary for the kids. They even had a really solid Pale Ale made by Zmajska pivovara. Hands down one of the best meals of the trip.

    Afterward we went to the cathedral, which could just be seen under construction. The cathedral was damaged in an earthquake in 2020 and is being rebuilt. Tige found a park with a playground and we did the crossword while the kids played. We then went to retrieve our luggage and grab sandwiches before our train to Budapest. We have taken a lot of trains,, but this has been a crazy trip thus far. It was supposed to be a direct train (5.5 hours) but then wasn’t (not stressful at all trying to figure out where to get off while on the train). We switched trains and then went into Hungary and stopped for what felt like forever and the. The train reversed and turned. The first train had AC and plugs but this one sadly does not and we are at least an hour behind. No dining car for water either Going to be a late, hot night and hopefully we end up in Budapest lol.
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  • Budapest Day 1

    25 Julai 2024, Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We were up early (but running later per usual) to eat and meet our boat tour on the Danube. It was a cool vantage point to see the beautiful buildings along both sides of the river. We are staying on the Pest side and decided to stick to sightseeing there today. We had the first of the traditional dishes for lunch (Langos). It is a flatbread that is fried, brushed with a garlic oil and then topped. Hungarians apparently love sour cream on everything, so a midwestern girl is right at home. We all had some combination cheese, sour cream, veggies, salami or salmon. Delicious! We signed up for a free walking tour with a group called Guru walk. It is always amazing how knowledgeable the guides are. Robert was a history buff and we met outside the St. Stefan Basilica, which was the first in central Eastern Europe. He walked us through Hungarian history from prehistoric times, through Attila the Hun, and the Austro-Hungarian empire to start. It was cool to integrate some of what we learned last summer in Austria. We saw the stumbling stones that have been made by artist Gunter Demnig, a German artist who installs the brass 10x10 cm stones at the last know residence of people taken in the holocaust. He has installed over 70,000 stones in over 1,200 cities. There are mixed opinions, but we thought that they were very interesting. We next walked to the liberty square and learned about the divisive issues that still exist regarding statues and policies of recognition of the Holocaust (300-400,000 soldiers and civilians and 500-600,000 Hungarian Jews were killed in WW2) and the choices that were made to join with Germany in both world wars.

    We saw the American Embassy and statues of Reagan and George HW Bush and learned how Elvis Presley helped expel the Soviets from Hungary after university students revolted and he said in an interview how brave they were.

    Before WW1 Pest was supposed to be the new center of the AH empire and huge buildings were built to house a stock exchange and the naval headquarters. After WW1 Hungary lost half of its land and population to surrounding countries and it never became the center. Those buildings were renovated to their original appearance and now are film sets. Die hard, Mission Impossible, and many other movies were filmed there. As we were there Angelina Jolie was shooting and Ryan Reynolds and Blake Lively were as well. Both Paramount and Fox were started by Hungarians and there is a strong connection with Hollywood. The city is so beautiful and so diverse that it really can play the role of a variety of old/European cities. Erno Rubrik is another Hungarian superstar and when the guide pulled out 2 cubes, Gid jumped up and said he would solve them. He did a 2x2 with a round of applause and then solved the second one right after it. Robert was impressed. We also learned that ballpoint pens, escape rooms and the jazz standard Gloomy Sunday were all born from Hungary.

    The tour ended at the Shoes by the Danube holocaust memorial, which was also very powerful. All in all it was a fantastic tour.

    We left the tour and went back near Parliament to plan the rest of the day. We went over to the Budapest Eye (substantially smaller than the London eye, but still fun). Next up was some shopping in a vintage shop, dropping our stuff for dinner. The first place we tried was booked for the night so we went to another spot recommended by our guide called Rueben. Traditional Hungarian food, great prices. Tige had goulash and a pork dish, Gid had a fried turkey breast stuffed with Camembert, H had a schnitzel, E had delicious pasta with cheese sauce and I had cabbage stuffed with meat with smoked ham on top. Best meal yet. Home for showers and be just near 10. Such a fun day!
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  • Buda and Pest

    26 Julai 2024, Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After sleeping in (the late nights are catching up with us) we packed for a day on the Buda side. Before we walked down to the Danube, we made a side trip to a Rubik’s cube store that has original Rubik’s cubes signed by Erno Rubrik. It was heaven for Gideon and he worked on the giant cube. Joce and the boys stopped at a quirky public toilet called the Art Toilet, which had art installations inside. Afterwards, we made our way to the Danube on the Pest side and found another mini statute by Kolodko - we learned about him on our walking tour. A Hungarian sculptor, he made 50 mini sculptures and scattered them all over Hungary with 25 in Budapest alone. All have a meaning and relationship to Hungarian history and/or the people of Hungary. Our tour guide showed us Kermit the Frog by the studio buildings yesterday (the Muppets and Sesame Street were the only American kids shows our guide had growing up). The second one we stumbled across was a balloon dog resembling the artwork of the sculpture artist Jeff Koons whose wife is Hungarian. We walked across the Chain bridge (only pedestrians, busses and cabs allowed) and made it to the base of Buda Castle hill. Our guide told us about some hidden elevators so we avoided the 200+ steps to the top. The castle complex is now museums and libraries with some still being renovated from the 2020 earthquake. The highlight was definitely the Mathias Church. The tiles were striking and really stood out from many places in the city. We paid to go inside and enjoy a short break before making our way over to the Fisherman’s Bastion and a beautiful view over the Danube to the Pest side. Since we had a late breakfast, we ended up with lunch at 1530 at a nearby bistro. The goulash and staple paprika hot sauce (Erős Pista) were very good and burgers for the kids were okay. After lunch, we walked down the hill to find two more Kolodko statues by the Danube (a tank with a limp cannon representing Russian oppression and an, of course, a Rubik’s cube). We grabbed a tram (our only one of the trip as it was very easy to walk in the city) and went back to the Pest side for chimney cakes at Molnars (essentially dough that is spiralled around spit and baked and then filled with ice cream). Cinnamon was certainly the star. We cancelled our dinner reservations (given that they were only an hour later) and instead went to our first ruin bar - Szimpla Kert. Szimpla claims to be the first ruin bar in the early 2000s. Located mostly in the Jewish quarter (which is where we stayed), abandoned buildings were bought and converted into bars, making sure to retain their rustic feel. Szimpla is the most popular (and apparently the most expensive though much cheaper than any UK bar we’ve ever been to) and very eclectic. It was a very fun atmosphere and a huge place with two floors and all sorts of different rooms with 6-8 different bars to choose from. We just had one beer before grabbing 2 small frozen pizzas and heading home at 2000 for showers. We rinsed off and then had a lite dinner before packing and bed.

    We were all up for breakfast but since our host allowed us to check out late, we decided to treat the kids (and ourselves) to an escape room as Hungary apparently invented them. We found one nearby that was called Sky Heist. The room was pretty incredible with multiple different doors and spaces and even a second spiral staircase to a second floor. We escaped with 6 minutes to go (though we did need a hint which we always try to avoid) and it was a good time. Had enough time left over to get food at food trucks in Karavan by Szimpla before getting our luggage and taking a car to the airport.

    We will miss Budapest and will certainly come back. We couldn’t do the famous thermal baths because the kids are too young but it is a beautiful city. Our time always go by too fast but we had a wonderful trip!
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    Tamat perjalanan
    26 Julai 2024