I’m OK. UK?

abril 2025
My niece has been studying in Florence since January, so we're excited to converge on London and start a UK road trip! I've seen a wee bit of England but am looking forward to traveling through Wales and Scotland. Leer más

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  • Día 11

    Last day in York

    14 de abril, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    Today was underwhelming. We had reservations for a free “walking” tour of York at 10:30. Our guide must have had a different definition of walking. We basically walked around an old abbey, while he shared a lot of history. Shockingly, he ran over more than 30 additional minutes, even though we didn’t see half of what was on the list. It was free, so I’m not complaining. What we did see was quite impressive. The original abbey was encircled with protective walls, which would have butted up against those of the city. Most of these walls are gone now, as is most of the abbey. What remains is a large wall of the cathedral with portions of the two ends. There is something very majestic about the ruins of old churches. At one time, these grounds were filled with beautiful buildings. It was the richest abbey in Britain, when Henry VIII divested the monasteries. Just like Tintern Abbey, the buildings were stripped of anything of value, and the buildings eventually fell into ruin, hastened by residents who made off with stones for their own construction projects. The abbey grounds include a beautiful garden and the York Museum now sits on the hill with a large grassy park extending from its front doors. The University of York now owns several buildings in the complex, including the King’s Manor. This large building was originally for the abbot but later hosted visiting royalty.

    The guide was kind enough to end the tour across the street, where he pointed out a city map, in case we’d like to see other things. Disappointed and hungry, we headed to Guy Fawkes. The restaurant was recommended by the guide, who said they had the best pies in town. I still haven’t had a pie, so I was excited at the prospect. The restaurant is located in the building where Guy Fawkes was born, with a bar in front and seating for food service in the back. I was ready to order my pie, when Debbie noted the asterisk on the menu that indicated the pies take about 30 minutes from the the time the kitchen receives the order. I was hungry and impatient, so I had an overpriced and mediocre cheese sandwich.

    Our timing was fortunate, as we arrived at the Minister just in time for one of the hourly tours. Again, the hour was more like 90 minutes and wasn’t terribly exciting. Several times, the guide forgot the year he wanted to reference and would say, “around about that same period.” I had anticipated that the Minister would be awe-inspiring, but it was rather plain. The stained glass was pretty, but there was no artwork or color. The stone walls were bare; the only hint of color were the gold figures way up on the vaulted peak of the ceiling. They were too small to make out, so they really didn’t stick out. Oddly, they did have an astonomical clock, which seemed like a strange thing to have in a cathedral. The clock was dedicated to the local airmen who lost their lives in WWII. We stared at it for a while but couldn’t figure how it actually worked. It was one of the few things with color in the building. The other color was the stenciling on the organ pipes. To me they looked like something from the Alps. The picture shows it better than I can explain it.

    After two unimpressive tours and an overpriced three star lunch, we headed back to our little village. We stopped at the supermarket to grab dinner stuff, and I was looking forward to getting take out dessert at the pub. I couldn’t wait to try Eton Mess. However, I will have to wait, as the pub was closed, and my dessert hopes were dashed.
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  • Día 12

    The North Sea

    15 de abril, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We got a late start today, as we didn’t have much planned. We left around 10am and headed north to Durham. I don’t suppose Durham is a huge tourist stop, but it did get a few pages in Rick Steves’, Guide to Great Britain. Its attraction is the Durham Cathedral. Not only is it an imposing site, it was used for filming a scene in the Harry Potter series and the Avengers saga. Although it is a gothic design, like the York Minister, this one is more impressive in my humble opinion. Inside, the stone architecture was punctuated with ornate wooden structures, and the stone pillars were carved with designs. The cathedral has the tallest bell tower in Europe, stretching 218 feet into the heavens. We happened to be there when one of the official looking people used the ropes to ring the bells. Oddly, you cannot hear the bells ringing inside the church. One of the tour guides said that the stone architecture absorbs the sound, despite the loud ringing outside. It was surreal to watch him ring the bells, while we stood in silence. Also strange, this cathedral has an astronomical clock, as well. This one is much older than the one in the York Minster. It was originally installed in the church in the late 1400’s to the early 1500’s. I need to do some research, as I don’t understand why these clocks are in the cathedrals. Maybe they were used to keep track of religious holidays. Anyway, we discovered that the staff at the Cathedral were preparing the space for a visit from the king this Thursday. Although we won’t be here, we did get to see some of the preparations. Specifically, they had volunteers assembling incredible floral arrangements from flowers and trees grown locally. There were tulips and daffodils and tree branches arranged in a multitude of combinations. The room where the florists worked smelled of Spring; the air filled with fragrance.

    While we grabbed lunch in Durham, we decided to take a detour and go see the North Sea. There is a special beach in Seaham that has more beach glass than any other a beach in the world. How can they make such a claim? Back in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s, there was a bottle making company in town that threw its waste into the sea. Seaham Hall Beach is now littered with small fragments of glass that have been tumbled and turned by the waves, creating smooth and rounded edges. We spent hours raking the rocks and sand with our fingers to find the tiny treasures. Not only did we find sea glass, but there were a thousand different kinds of rocks that have also been tumbled to a smooth texture. They were a multitude of colors, shapes, and sizes. All of us filled our pockets with souvenirs and made it back to the car as the sun broke through the clouds. Although there was no rain, it was overcast today. When the sun did come out, it shown down the coast, illuminating a lighthouse just south from the car park. I suspect it was at the harbor of Seaham, which has a little protected marina.

    Our day ended in Newcastle Upon Tyne. From here we will make one last sightseeing stop in England tomorrow before driving into Scotland. We’ve had over a week and a half with mostly sunshine and no rain, but that may be changing tomorrow.
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  • Día 13

    Roman Forts and Flying Boats

    16 de abril, Escocia ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    We’ve arrived in Scotland! I’m looking forward to seeing it in the afternoon sun tomorrow. It was gray and rainy today.

    We left Newcastle, after a hearty breakfast and a great cup of coffee at a local Italian cafe. Our first stop was Hadrian’s wall. Although you can hike the entire 73 miles of wall that stretches from coast to coast in northern England, we decided on a single stop at Housestead’s Roman Fort. It is the most complete Roman fort in England. The weather varied from mist to rain, so we geared up before walking the half mile from the car park to the museum and fort. The wind was blustery and fairly unpleasant as we walked up the hill. Fortunately, the museum was warm and dry, so we lingered for a bit looking at the recovered artifacts and a short historical video. When we ventured out again, the rain turned to a light mist then stopped altogether, but the wind did not. I can’t imagine being a Roman soldier and getting stuck on this windy hill with a short skirt, while my friend Fortuitous is sunny himself in Malta. However, the wind did dry out my pants, which had gotten soggy on the walk up. Anyhoo, we first went to the small portion of the wall, where you are allowed to walk on the top of it. From there we wandered into the fort. The prized ruin is the Roman latrine. I didn’t count, but it would have had toilet seats for about a dozen people at one time. The Romans had a sophisticated drainage system that swept away the waste regularly. In another move of planning excellence, the latrine was built in the south east corner of the fort, so any smell would have blown away from the complex. Brilliant.

    The fort was fairly large with barracks in neat rows and a hospital on the grounds. It was hard to picture the enormity of the fort, but information signs, strategically placed around the old stones, helped to spark my imagination. From the south side, I could see the wall stretching over the hills and out of sight. At the time of Hadrian’s rule, he decided to stop expanding the empire and protect what was most worthwhile. The wall was his northern boundary on the British isle, as the tribes to the north weren’t worth the continual headache. It was a simple cost/benefit decision; the resources he could strip from the north simply weren’t worth the frequent military battles.

    Following the visit to the fort, we headed to Scotland. I can’t remember where I heard about the Falkirk wheel, but I’ve wanted to see it ever since. As noted in a previous blog from this trip, there is an extensive canal system in Great Britain, and boats are able to move along the canals via multiple locks. Before this ingenious invention (the Wheel), boats had to transit 11 locks to get from the Union canal down to the Forth & Clyde canal. This would have meant operating about 44 separate gates to make the journey. However, some imagineer decided that you could cut out all of the locks and replace them with a single wheel that would carry a boat up or down the 100 feet in one swing. This is how it works. Let’s say a boat wants to go up to the Union canal. It will pull into a “bay”, and a door will raise behind it, thereby keeping the boat locked in an enormous box filled with water. The wheel will then turn one-half circle to bring the boat up to the canal. Once there, the door is dropped, and the boat can motor away. We watched one of the tourist boats go up, and it took about 20 minutes. I think. I was standing in a cold rain, with strong wind gusts, so it felt like it took an hour. My hands were frozen by the time the boat got to the top, but I was determined to video the whole process in time lapse. Check it out!
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  • Día 14

    HMY Britannia

    17 de abril, Escocia ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    We spent a few hours on Her Majesty’s yacht, the Britannia. My only familiarity with the boat is from the Netflix show, The Crown. The ship is beautiful. Instead of the traditional black, she is painted dark blue and highlighted with a gold stripe the length of the ship. Oddly, her name appears nowhere on the hull. Built in the early 1950’s, the ship was one in a long line of royal ships, going back to the 1600’s. The Britannia was commissioned in 1954 and sailed over a million nautical miles before retiring in 1997. In that time, the boat visited 135 different countries. One of my favorite features was the state dining room, where the walls displayed gifts from different countries. There was woodwork from New Zealand, a peace pipe from America, a carved turtle from the Galápagos, and a miniature stone figure from Easter Island. There interior of the boat was exquisite, while many of the furnishings were more humble. Family photos lined many of the living areas, included 1980’s era Princess Di shots. We were provided an audio tour, which guided us through the ship from top to bottom. The three-masted ship has five decks, with its original steam engines that were never replaced. We toured the living quarters of the royals, with bedrooms, dining room, sun room, and drawing room, as well as the crew’s quarters. The admiral was in charge, and he also had some very nice digs. The ship required a huge crew, including a military band that had to be able to play the national anthem of every country in which they entered their port. In addition to the crew and passengers, the ship carried either a Rolls-Royce or a bit shorter Land Rover. The Rolls was so long that they would need to remove the bumper each time they stowed it.

    In the last 15 years or so, a a tea room was added as part of the attraction. We popped in after the tour to have lunch and tea. Although the day started with clouds and heavy rain, the skies started to clear, as we sat by the large window overlooking the Firth of Forth (which really just feels like a bay that opens to the North Sea).

    We finished our site seeing in Edinburgh’s city center. We stopped into St Giles’ cathedral. Churches have been on this site for centuries, but it now houses a Protestant denomination. It was bustling with tourists inside, which diminished the sacred feel. I just assume that a church is going to be quiet, but this one certainly was not. We left the madness of the church to cross the street. On the corner is a bronze statue of David Hume, born in Edinburgh in 1711. The statue is the dull green blue of bronze except for his toe. Apparently it is good luck to rub his toe, which now gleams golden in the sun. I gave a little rub and hoped his wisdom wears off on me. It’s an unusual tradition given that Hume didn’t believe in superstition or religiosity. I wonder what he would make of his shiny toe.

    As we left the downtown area, we ran across a bagpiper. What a way to finish the day!
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  • Día 15

    Good tour, bad weather

    18 de abril, Escocia ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    Kim was feeling unwell this morning, so we cancelled our morning plans to give her an opportunity to recuperate. The extra rest must have worked, as she was ready to go by noon. We had reservations for the free Edinburgh city tour at 2pm, which meant grabbing lunch, driving through roundabouts, finding parking, and checking in with the tour.

    We randomly picked a cafe on the way into town and did our best to order without too many silly questions. I had a ham and cheese sandwich, which turned out to be two pieces of bread with sliced ham. So far so good. The cheese was grated and added to the sandwich. That could have meant a mess of cheese falling out of the sandwich, but the bread was smeared with butter, which held the cheese in place. Interesting idea. Jacket potatoes have been on several menus, and Kim selected the jacket potato with chicken and mayo. Basically, it’s a baked potato with the toppings of your choice. The potato came out piping hot, but the chicken and mayo was cold. Although she reported it was good, she also said it was a little weird. Nikki ordered chili nachos, which were corn chips smothered with beef chili. Not sure how that’s going to settle in her tummy, as a (mostly) pescatarian.

    We arrived at the meeting place a few minutes early and met Brian, our tour guide. He was very thoughtful and asked for feedback throughout the tour. He did a nice job and provided just enough history to make his point, whilst not boring the crowd. We started the tour stepping down a “close.” These are like Snickelways in York. They are short walkways cut into the middle of the block that took us to the next street over. Some were a couple people wide, while others were shoulder width. We made our way to the St Giles Cathedral and retraced our steps from yesterday; however, we completely missed the grave mark at parking spot 23. John Knox was the leader of the reformation movement in Scotland, preaching from St Giles. It sounds like he was quite fiery and passionate, which increased his popularity. He insisted that his final resting place be in the cemetery at St Giles, which was located in a courtyard next to the church in the 1500’s. Many, many years later, all of the bodies were relocated, except Knox’s remains. He was insistent, and very clear, about the site of his eternal rest, so they paved over him. The site is now parking stall #23 next to the church. Brian also provided some new information about St Giles, which we missed when we toured it yesterday. Apparently there are wood carvings of angels playing the bagpipe. I’m not sure how we could have missed that, but we agreed that we would go find them after the tour.

    We walked the Royal Mile, which is the street that runs from the Edinburgh Castle to the king’s residence at the other end. We learned that a Scottish mile is just a bit longer than an English mile, just in case anyone was measuring the distance. Today, the Royal Mike is filled with historical sites and lots of shops inviting tourists to empty their wallets. The castle sits at the top of a hill, so the tour kept gaining elevation until we were at the castle gates, from which you can see all of Edinburgh. It seemed like everywhere I looked there was some amazing building or church. Brian pointed out one of the schools that has been rumored to be the inspiration for Hogwarts. JK Rowling wrote most of the Harry Potter books, while living in Edinburgh, and I could certainly see why people took note of the school. Not much later, we visited Greyfriars cemetery. Across the street from the Greyfriars church, there was a cafe where Rowling would sit and write. She would take breaks and walk on the Greyfriars grounds. Some of the names of her characters are actually individuals who are buried there. Specifically, we saw the grave markers of William Magonagall and Thomas Riddell. But the saddest story from the graveyard was about Greyfriars Bobby. This little dog was owned by a policeman that passed away in the mid-1800’s. He was buried in Greyfriars cemetery, where Bobby would come everyday and site by his grave. The cemetery keeper tried to get rid of him but eventually appreciated his persistence and took care of him. The dog stayed at the graveside of his master for 14 years, before he passed away himself. A book and movie tell the story of the dog, though I’m not familiar with either. But, there is a little bronze statue just outside the cemetery to memorialize his loyalty and persistence. Oddly, people rub his nose for good luck, so he has a very shiny muzzle.

    Brain recommended a chippy not far from the cemetery, so we headed there for an early dinner. The place was super busy and pumped out fish and chips like a machine. From Bertie’s, we walked back to St Giles to see the angels with bagpipes, which kinda sounds like a song title now that I’m writing it. We got there 10 minutes before they closed, but the attendant said the area where the angels are was already closed, “but you can come back tomorrow.” We put on sad faces and said that we were leaving tomorrow, but it didn’t work. He still didn’t let us in. I tracked down a photo of the carving and added it here. It’s more than I had a hoped for!
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  • Día 16

    888

    19 de abril, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    I dropped off Kim, Deb, and Nikki at the airport before 6am this morning. They are continuing on to Northern Ireland, and I’m headed home. I only made one wrong turn without an additional navigator but got the rental car returned. The car rental guy inspected the left side of the car very closely, including the hubcaps and tires. Luckily, I haven’t hit a curb since the second day, and I managed to return it without any dents or scratches. After looking at the mileage, he found it auspicious that I had driven exactly 888 miles in two weeks. I don’t know that I’m lucky, but I am exhausted from having to pay close attention for 888 miles.

    Once I was approved to leave the rental return, I caught the tram out to the airport and flew to London. I took a bus from the airport to the underground. It was nice not to be driving, so I could enjoy the scenery. We drove by “Jack the Chipper” and I was sad that I didn’t know about that restaurant until now. While I waited for the subway, a group of about 10 young men, mid-twenties, walked up to the platform. They were fully decked out in Harry Potter outfits. Each one was a different character, with wigs and garb to perfection. There was even a Hermione with skirt, wig, and nicely trimmed beard. He looked happy to have drawn that straw. My favorite, though, was Dobby. The guy was bald and had huge ears glued to his head. At first I thought it might be a tour, but it wasn’t a tour vibe. I wanted to ask if there was a party at Hogwarts, but they didn’t make eye contact. I hope they enjoyed their Saturday night and wherever they were going.

    I rolled in to my hotel at Heathrow around 7pm. Unbelievably, it took me about as long to get from Edinburgh to here as my flight home tomorrow. I spent the evening packing and prepping for the long trip home.
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  • Día 17

    5 Star Return

    20 de abril, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Today got off to a great start. At breakfast I was wearing a Colorado shirt, and a man came by to say hello. He was born and raised in Lyons and works for UNC in Greeley. I told him I worked in Greeley a while back, and it brought back memories of my time there. I had to smile, thinking of my friend Jerry, who had gone to Ireland and rented a car. Let’s just say, he’s the reason the car rental guy inspected the left side of my car so closely.

    The check-in to United and the check-out from the UK were smooth and unexpectedly quick. I found a lounge and waited for my flight. I like to wait until the end to board. I figure I’m going to be sitting for 9 hours, so why extend that time waiting for other people to find their seat on the plane. As I approached my seat, I couldn’t believe my luck. Empty seats were everywhere, including next to me. I think it was probably the best long haul flight of my life (except when I was young and got bumped to first class). I was able to stand up and watch movies, walk around as much as I wanted without having to step over people, and the flight attendants were super gracious. They kept me well supplied with hot tea and snacks. When we arrived in Denver, I was refreshed and excited to continue my very long day. I wish every flight was like that one.

    And that’s a wrap on UK 2025 for me. Here’s my top 10 favorite moments and curiosities:

    10. Realizing that the song Penny Lane describes the surroundings of a real bus stop
    9. The engineering of canal locks and a giant boat wheel
    8. Sharing the funness of ABBA in concert
    7. Eating proper fish and chips-fry me to the moon
    6. Stonehenge rocks!
    5. Traipsing around 1st century Roman ruins 20 centuries later
    4. Walking through stone circles and earth mounds from 3400 BC
    3. Buying my own personal ghost at the Ghost Emporium in York
    2. Finally figuring out the meaning of this sign in England: Cat’s Eyes Removed
    1. Snickelways!
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