San Francisco

self driving cars and eucalyptus trees

back in the bay

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We drive into the city to celebrate Día de los Muertos with family and friends, indulging once again in delicious tamales. I'm staying in a relative’s apartment, where two cats keep me company.

I am elated—no, ecstatic—to be back in this gem of a city. I have missed the smell of the eucalyptus and the victorians. I have missed the diversity and the anonymity with which you can move around the place. I have missed the hills and the ocean and the bridge. I have missed the city much more than I ever knew. And I am reminded of the disparity between the classes in the city and just how rich the rich are getting.

I’ve packed our schedule tightly, almost compulsively, wanting to show Joe, who will be joining me for a leg of the trip, everything I’ve ever loved about this place.

We start in my old neighborhood, marveling at just how small a home can be—despite the $1,800 a month price tag.
We sip lavender lattes and stroll through Golden Gate Park, where we pause for green tea in the Japanese garden and later have a picnic near the iconic Painted Ladies. The day ends at Smuggler’s Cove, where Brad joins us for tiki drinks that are dangerously delicious and far too strong.

The next day, we dive headfirst into tourist mode. By cable car to Lombard Street, from there, we wander to Fisherman’s Wharf for lunch at In-N-Out, followed by a visit to the sea lions lounging and barking by the pier. Another cable car ride brings us to Chinatown, where we indulge in some light shopping and as the day winds down, we find ourselves at Vesuvio Café, sipping a cold beer.

We spend the next day exploring Haight-Ashbury, soaking in its eccentric energy. At Zam Zam Bar, we have a drink and I take Joe to visit my old landlord’s esoteric witchcraft store, The Sword and Rose.

We take a day to cross the Golden Gate Bridge on foot. We continue walking all the way to Sausalito, a cute, picturesque town, where we reward ourselves with ice cream before taking the ferry back to the mainland.

On our final day, we take a brisk stroll along the beach, staying only as long as the freezing wind allows. Then, it’s time to pack, say our goodbyes, and head to the airport late at night for our flight to Mexico City.Read more