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Thailand & India 2019
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  • Zinia and Marty
  • Marty and Zinia

Thailand & India 2019

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    Thailand & India 2019

    Batanes (Basco) to Palawan (Puerto P)

    18. december 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    6am wake up, leave homestay by 6:30 and walk to airport. Arrive at airport for 6:50 and have breakfast at airport cafe - share lumpiasilog and a coffee (100p). Board flight to Manila at 8am. Arrive at Manila domestic airport, buy ticket to Puerto Princessa, Palawan at Cebu Airlines stall. Didn't get a better deal - learnt we should've bought tickets while in Batanes.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Batanas - Sabtang to Basco

    17. december 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Sleep in until 8am. Ride scooter to police station to return it to Gretchen. Greeted by police officers who take us to Gretchens house as she is preparing food for their party tonight. Meet gretchens sister-in-law and pay her for the bike and 2L of petrol (1000p + 300p). Say goodbye and walk to port cafe for breakfast. See a boat being dragged down the high street on way to cafe. Breakfast at port cafe - fishsilog and beefsilog plus coffee and buko pandan shake (310p). Walk back to homestay to check out and pick up bags. Walk back to cafe and relax there while waiting for 12pm boat. 30min Ferry back to Ivana Port (100p each) and jeepney from Ivana to Basco (23p ea). Arrive Basco 1:30 and head to PNB ATM to check if working. Still broken so decide to walk to find guesthouse and some lunch. Find a great cafe while looking for cheap guesthouse and have fish and chips, burger and two ice teas (220p). Internet down but up by the time we finish lunch. Walk back to check if ATM working but still out of action. Book homestay on Airbnb to save cash. Walk to find Airbnb homestay (not easy as directions just say to catch a tricycle! - no address, location map is wrong and picture is outdated). Find homestay after chatting with locals and let owner know that not everyone is on a tour and need directions. Check in and book flights to Manila. Need to get our USD back from previous guesthouse but do not have enough pesos. Walk to ATM and by a miracle it’s working! Withdraw 20,000p and head back to old guesthouse to get USD back. Walked town, watched sunset over port, had dinner at lunch cafe - shared squid & meatball rice and ice tea (200p), found a cool art cafe and had sweet potato fries and jelly coffee (145p) while chatting with owner, headed to bubble tea cafe and had taro milkshake and coffee milkshake (110p). Lots of kids caroling through town. Head back to homestay and get ready for bed around 9:30.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Batanes - Sabtang

    16. december 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    4:30 wake up and out of guesthouse by 5am to catch jeepney to Ivana. Check PNB ATM on way but still offline. Jeepney arrives at stop shortly after 5am and we bus down to Ivana in the dark (24p ea). Arrive Ivana 5:30 ready for 6am ferry. Port is empty so we head to honesty cafe and grab a coffee and cake for breakfast (50p) - the last of our small change. Head back to the port but no one arrives until closer to 6:30 as ferry isn’t until 7am. Write names on ferry manifest and wait for boat. Catch first ferry to Sabtang and arrive around 7:30. Walk to guesthouse by lighthouse and check in before finding a cantina for breakfast - porksilog. After breakfast ask around town for anyone who has a spare motorbike they are willing to rent to us. After speaking with some locals and guesthouse owners we head to the police station who point us to the tourism office. A police woman, Gretchen walks us to the tourism office next to the police station and helps us when sparking with the lady there. The tourism lady is reluctant to enable us renting a bike and points us to a tour/guide and tricycle. Gretchen meanwhile has spoken with her brother and next thing we know there is a scooter waiting for us outside. We thank Gretchen and her brother and set off to tour the island. We head north first and counter clockwise to explore the island, beaches as small villages. Riding back to basco for lunch we drop back into the canteen had breakfast at and pick up some food before heading south along the island coast roads. On the way back from exploring zinia practices her riding. Back into town forLæs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Basco - Day 2

    15. december 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Enjoy and good nights sleep and get up late at 9:30. Head to harbour cafe for breakfast but it’s not open so ride to Pension Ivatan instead. Ride back into town, spoke to coastguard about ferry, refuel bike, and drop scooter back to Cielo shop for 11:30. Walked to harbour cafe and have ice coffee while paying bills, planning trip to Sabtang island, and flights to other parts of the Philippines. Head back to guesthouse to pick some things up and then get lunch at Beehan cafe before walking to lighthouse and finding a small market garden and stopping in at a church. Back to guesthouse before heading out to get cash (no ATM on next island) and dinner. PNB ATM not working so walk to other atm on other side of town (card won’t work). Get dinner at Beehan and then walk back to guesthouse and ask if she’ll hold USD as collateral until we return from Sabtang and PNB atm working. All good so get an early night in preparation for 5am Jeepney to ferry tomorrow morning.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Batanes Islands - Basco

    14. december 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Awake at 3:30am and check out of guesthouse. Order Grab taxi and arrive at Manila domestic airport for 4:45. Taxi driver didn’t use meter and tries to charge 400p for trip. We argue and pay 200p. Check in for flight at 5am and depart for Basco at 6am. Arrive basco 7am and walk from airport into town. Check out a couple of guest houses and have breakfast at Shanedels inn and cafe. Check out a couple more guest houses and check into Rlpuriran Leave bags at guesthouse and walk into centre of town to hire a scooter (1000p/24hr) and get a SIM card (100p). Ride anticlockwise around southern part of island. Have a light lunch at Honesty Cafe and meet ? While checking out lighthouse and spend some time chatting to him. Head back to guesthouse and use nice room to relax and get cleaned up - shave etc. late by the time we head out for dinner and only place still open is pizza. Get takeout and eat back our guesthouse.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Walking Down Memory Lane

    13. december 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Wake early, have breakfast at same place we had dinner last night. Silog for M and Embosilog for Z - 61 PHP. Back to apartment for wifi, get a Grab taxi to go to Z’s old house in Marcelo Green Village, Parañaque. Jay is our taxi driver - really nice and inquisitive guy. Walked around old house, Jay waited to take us back. Got Jay to drop us off at Lunetta Park. Go back to National Museum of the Philippines. Shared a Turon which M really liked, M tried Taho for the first time and not a big fan. After museum, got into a tricycle to go to Chinatown. Not much there. Tried to get a tricycle back to our apartment but drivers were asking too much so we walked back...ended up finding some cool streets with many vendors! Had some fishball on our way back (one guy tried to c barge 50PHP each when they’re normally 5PHP each! Lol)...M liked these. Got some baked goods (hopia, mamon, chocolate cake, Spanish bread) and his first pop in plastic bag 😂. Back home and chilled at apartment, napped until dinner time, went out to vendor on street we walked earlier for dinner, then back to sleep. Early morning to catch flight to Batanes tomorrow.Læs mere

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    Philippine History and Heritage Day

    12. december 2019, South China Sea ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Breakfast at cafe downstairs, walked to Intramuros, went into San Augustin Church and museum, saw a couple getting married. Z got her first “dirty ice cream” of the trip. Went to print hall (forgot name) and got a coffee, walked to Fort Santiago. Went into Jose Rizal Museum - a really good museum! Lunetta park, lunch with the locals at vendors set up in parking lot then went to National Museum of the Philippines. Really tired now so walked back, went for dinner at a little vendor by apartment, sleep.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    First Full Day in Manila

    11. december 2019, South China Sea ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Sleep in, breakfast at cafe at bottom of apartment, chill. Take the train to SM Mall of Asia to check if M’s screen can be replaced w an apple screen and to find bikini for Z. See a Timmies on walk from EDSA station to mall. M’s phone screen swap would take a week, too long - not done. Dinner at a resto at mall. No bikini for Z but found a Deuter store - buff replacement for Z. Walk around mall to find skating rink, couldn’t find. Stumbled across awesome marching band playing Christmas songs & watched for a while. Kept walking and walked along bay... great area with street vendors and bars/restos! Walked to bus port to catch a jeepney to train station cause Z has blisters from flip flops. Line super long! Walked slowly to EDSA train station instead... stopped at timmies for a Boston Cream doughnut. Got to station, took train, home then sleep.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Travel Day

    9. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Wake early, no shower, walk out to hail a tuktuk to Agra Cant - 100INR. Get on train... pollution visibly getting worse as we get closer to New Dehli and need to wear scarf and buff over nose the whole journey - M&Z both have headaches, M constant runny nose, Z blowing out black gunk out of nose. Naughty child behind M and kept shaking m’s seat - mum or dad weren’t doing anything about it so had to remind parents what their child was doing. Later child watching kids show wit that had a song “sugar, sugar, why are you so yummy? Chocolate chocolate, please get in my tummy!” .. get to New Delhi Cant at 10:20am, get on LRT transfer to airport. Cleanest transport we’ve been on in India, looks very new. Can’t check in for our 16:20 flight to Bangkok -grab breakfast. Check in, have lunch then board flight. Arrive Bangkok at 21:40, grab cab & check into apartment guesthouse. Took guesthouse bicycles to get dinner at nearby street vendor. Ka pow moo Krop x2 and Coke .Take long showers, sleep.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Taj Mahal, Agra

    8. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Wake before sunrise to head to Taj Mahal. Touts waiting outside building saying we had to buy tickets at the building they were standing in front. Us and other tourists didn’t trust them so walked to the entrance of Taj Mahal thinking the true booking office would be there. No desk there, just a line with ppl who already booked tix. Asked them where booking office is - where the touts were. Bought tix, got water bottles and shoe covers with tix. Taj Mahal was beautiful. Cleanest place we’ve seen in India. Walked back to cc Yoga House and got cash on the way back. Will have brekky at guesthouse thinking it would be convenient. Got there, host just woke up, told us to just text him on WhatsApp when we’re ready to order from their menu. Messaged him shortly after for 2 omelettes and 2 masala chai - he replied to confirm he received the order. At 30 mins still no food. At the 45 min mark, saw a guy with groceries in his hand going into the kitchen. Texted host to ask how our food was going as it’s almost been 1 hr and just saw a guy with groceries, hoping that wasn’t our food. Guest from Malaysia came up with pack and sat with us. No reply from host - he came up, didn’t acknowledge us and went into the kitchen to help that guy with the groceries. Came out with our tea at 1 hr mark and said our food is coming, reminded him it’s been over an hour since we ordered. He didn’t apologise and instead explained how the Malaysian guy missed his train this morning and had to help him so that’s why our food is late. We said it’s not his fault and that he could’ve simply told us that our food would’ve been delayed and we wouldn’t have had an issue. He again tried to explain the guy missed his train and that if he didn’t miss his train our food would’ve been on time.. he had to arrange a private taxi for him to get to airport. Reminded him it is not this guest’s fault and he reluctantly said sorry and went back to help the guy in the kitchen. Guest from Malaysia had been in Agra for 5 days only to see Taj Mahal and Red Fort as he would like to see the 7 Wonders of the world. He is now taking a private taxi (run by host’s friend) to the airport. Finished brekky and went into our room to plan how we will get to New Delhi tmrw and to discuss where we would like to go from there. Early train available from Agra to New Delhi tmrw, early morning or midday. Reassessed countries we can fly to from New Dehli - shortlisted Philippines and UK. Decided we will go to the Philippines, mainly due to time of year and type of travel we would like to do this time around. Got help from host to book train tix to new dehli - comfort class, leaving 5:50am tmrw. Host says this train is always on time as it is a commuter train and starts it’s journey in Agra. Went back to room booked flights - no flights from New Delhi to Manila, have to fly from Bangkok to get to Manila. Will need to stay one night in Bangkok. Booked 1 night at an apartment style guesthouse by international airport. Tomorrow will be a traveling day. Rested until lunchtime. Went to Bedweiser Backpackers hostel for lunch - egg biryani to share + 1 coke. Asked staff how much tuk tuk would be to Red Fort, told us it would be 150 INR and they were about to tell us about a private taxi but we stopped them and told them that made no sense when a tuk tuk to the train station which is a lot further only cost us 100 INR. Said goodbye and walked towards Red Fort to catch a tuk tuk on the way. Caught one for 70 INR. Went to Red Fort but it was PACKED so didn’t go in, appreciated it from the outside. Tuktuk back for 70 INR. Dropped off at Moustache Agra and walked back to guesthouse. M stopped to chat with men he saw fixing a motorbike - they were very intrigued and impressed he knew what repair they were doing and what they needed to do. Chilled at guesthouse until dinner time. Z calls Zeni - had a lovely chat, showing her our room in Agra and a video of rats we saw on the train tracks yesterday. Found out her surgery will take place on Thursday morning - will try to Skype her beforehand. Went out for dinner at Bambino Cafe. Great service and genuine host. Special Thali to share, Coke and plain lassi. Really struggling to breathe through pollution in Agra today, both of us have had headaches almost the whole day. Went back to guesthouse to get an early night - settled our accomodation fees at guesthouse, we’ll get up early tomorrow.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Goodbye Orcha, Hello Agra

    7. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Woke early, packed bags and brought downstairs (stored in staff room while we go out) and paid for accommodation. Went to see temple on hill, doors closed, too early. Went to first temple - beautiful and barely anyone around! Many narrow stairs that open up to massive rooms/paths. Walked to No-Mads for breakfast, mixed veg paratha brekky x2 - great chat w Udeshya. Got leftovers for takeaway snacks on train journey later. Went to fort to get ticket giving us access to all other temples. Explored fort. Construction going on outside but inside the architecture was beautiful inside. It was a shame however because there was rubbish everywhere, plastic wrappers, tobacco spit, people carving their names on this historic building, paintings poorly preserved. Next went to temple near guesthouse. Had two young boys who approached us asking for selfies, but we could see they were obviously touts so said no. They seemed to report to a guy pretending to be an attendant of the temple, and sent these boys to us again to give it another try and so they kept following us and repeatedly asked for selfies. When we refused and walked away, the boss told us we had to take off our shoes as it was a temple (no one else had shoes off). At this point we were no longer able to enjoy this temple without being followed by these two boys so decided to head out. On the way out, the boss ran after us and told us never mind about the shoes cause we can explore upstairs where we didn’t need to remove them for that. Said we had to pay to get up there - told him that was bullshit as the ticket we bought allowed for unlimited access to all temples in town. He grabbed hold of our ticket and said “okay okay okay” and ripped off a corner pretending he was allowing us to proceed. We said forget it and walked out. He sent the two boys to follow us down the stairs to ask for selfies again, told these boys to leave us alone. As we walked down, a vendor saw what was happening and yelled at these boys to stop bothering us. Told us to let him know if this happens again and he would call the tourist police for us. Now disheartened with this experience, we reluctantly visited the closed temple we visited this morning. Barely anyone there. Not as grand as the fort but underlying architecture was beautiful- again rubbish, spit and carvings everywhere, very poorly kept. Headed back to guesthouse to book our guesthouse in Agra and wait for our tuktuk to arrive at 1:30pm. Guesthouse booked at cc YOGA Homestay in Agra as well be arriving late. Tuktuk to Jhansi train station 250INR. 3pm train delayed 2 hrs. Got on 2S class, we had reserved seats for this 5 hour journey. More ppl arrive on train w unreserved seats so they jussi stand where they can - gets packed, people sitting on tables and overhead baggage compartment. 3hrs into journey hear a man behind us asking something and getting denied/ignored, makes his way to us where people are sat on a table in front of us. Man asks ppl on table if he could please rest his toddler child on the table so he can sleep. People just stare at him and ignore him. M&Z shocked at the lack of empathy..He starts to walk back and M gets up to give seat but ppl weren’t moving - when we started calling for him to come back he had just put his toddler son on overhead baggage compartment. Managed to call him over, M gave his seat, man very thankful. Ppl start praising Marty and one man shakes his hand and says loudly “you’re a good man”. M tells him not to call him a good man because this is simply what you should do for your fellow ppl, he tells them anyone could have done it, starts pointing and says “you could’ve given their seat, those ladies on the table could’ve done it, you all could’ve done it and been a good person but you chose not to do it”. Ppl now wanting to talk to Marty and shake his hand. Father very thankful, 3yo boy very tired. Arrived in Agra, got tuktuk to moustache Agra and walked to cc Yoga Guesthouse. Host was not there and paper saying to call him on WhatsApp. Called on WhatsApp, couldn’t hear so hung up & texted. Host says he is at wedding and will be back in 30mins, Z&M can enter their room. Man not there (didn’t message) so went to bed. Will spend one day tmrw then leave the next morning.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Orchha... "Mini Hampi"

    6. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Pack, meet Tom & checkout at lobby of Moustache Khajuraho at 8:30am. Tom tries to arrange his transport/train from Orchha to Mumbai as he fears Orchha might be too small a town to arrange this from. Was not a quick task - junior staff gave him run around trying to get Tom to do a private taxi hire. Tom was meant to have brekky W us but stayed back to sort - will meet him at bus station for 9:30am. M&Z get brekky at Gura Kripa again - Aloo and paneer paratha...big serves, got rest for takeaway and lunch for journey to Orchha... will share W. Tom in case didn't have time for brekky. Walked to bus station and met Tom. He explains he relucantly had to pay 4000 INR for moustache staff to arrange his transport from Orchha to Mumbai and believes he's been scammed but felt he had to take a risk cause not sure how small Orchha is and has to be in Mumbai 2 days from now. He will meet his gf there and they will go back to the UK for christmas then onwards to South Africa. Got on bus - pay onboard 50INR ea and + 50 INR for our 3 backpacks to take us to Chhatarpur. Drop off - man takes M’s bag down and takes it straight to bus instead of handing to M... Man was trying to be helpful but almost lost M's bag because of this as we JUST caught bus to Jhansi as it was driving away. 150 INR each. Very dusty journey and felt pollution/smog getting to us. Dropped off at Orchha turn off, man asks for additional 50 INR ea for luggage last minute, Tom tells him to F off as it was clearly an afterthought. Man wanted to argue but his bus started driving away so he had to get back on. Tuktuk to Orchha 100INR for 3 but shared with 3 other adults (domestic tourists) and one child. Orchha looked very much like Khajuraho except it had a beautiful fort and temples. Checked in at Hotel Sunset. Such a lovely host who is studying tourism (has exam tmrw). We all meet Guillome (Fr France) and Anisha (Uzbekistan) who were already staying at the hostel and headed out to explore. Lovely couple.Tom will scout out a homestay and decide where he would like to stay. Add him on FB so we can meet up for dinner. M&Z settle in and decide will stay only one night so research transport to Agra. Train available early afternoon tomorrow so plan to check out temples and fort tmrw. Ready for dinner and hear Tom’s voice - he’s decided to stay at hotel sunset also tonight. Head out for dinner W Tom to No-Mads Cafe recommended by host. Touts still similar to Khajuraho, more children and teenagers that talk to you as if they're genuinely interested in your company but then show their true intentions after you’ve invested some time in them. If you look at a toddler, they will suddenly stop playing, run to you with hand out saying "chocolate?" And follow you around. Saw a tractor towing a tray full of ppl arriving at a wedding venue - they were all so smiley and amused that we were so intrigued by this. Walk further and a girl says hello and Z & Tom chat to her... She then told us to have a look at her shop, so we amused her and went. She grabbed a bracelet and grabbed Z's arm to tie it around, Z pulling away and saying no thank you. Girl insisting she doesn't want money and that it is a “free gift” and insisted on giving Tom one too. Once bracelets on Tom & Z , she quickly revealed that it is a free gift but we "have to come to [her] shop after dinner". Walked away and found No-mads. Met Udeshya, the lovely cafe owner. Learnt he grew up just east of Varanasi, went to Uni in Varanasi, worked finance in New Dehli, quit his job to travel India on his motorbike and to start a small business in a small town like Orchha. His cafe is new and has only been open for 14 days. Had Thali, coke and lassi to share. Best Thali we've had in India so far. Tom brought his deck of cards - played 2 rounds of cambio. Tom had to be somewhere to sort his transport to Mumbai by 7:30. Head out, and on way back to hostel, separate from Tom as heard ceremony host told us about at temple. Had a look and enjoyed for a bit. Headed back to hostel to chill. M&Z discussed that if Orchha is a snippet of what we would expect out of Hampi (which many travellers we met along the way and had been to both have told us), we would much rather spend the rest of our 4 weeks where we can find some nature, get fresh air, and experience the country's culture through meaningful interactions with locals without having to fight for it. Brainstormed countries we might like to visit... Looked on Skyscanner for places we can fly out to from New Delhi at a low price. We will spend 1 night in Agra, and reassess. Heard Tom back at guesthouse, chat W him for a while. Booked 3:30pm train with help of host to go from Jhansi -> Agra tmrw (2S class) and a private tuktuk from hostel to Jhansi (250INR) at 1:30pm tmrw. Guillome and Anisha arrive back at hostel and we all play Cambio until the end of the night. Early night for everyone - G&A leaving in morning for Khajuraho, T leaves in evening for Mumbai, we leave on train tomorrow afternoon so will get up early to explore Orchha.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Khajuraho Sutra

    5. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Arrived at Khajuraho train station at 5 am. Tom booked in at Moustache Khajuraho, a guesthouse Z had shortlisted. Tuk tuk to Moustache w Tom, Sasha and Johnny 100INR. Sasha and Johnny decide they don’t want to stay at moustache..stay in tuk tuk to go to city centre. Staff member greets us and asks M&Z “what [we] want” and disregards Tom as he knew he had a booking. Told man to tend to Tom first and we’d have a chat w him afterwards. Had to insist on this a few times. Tom checked in and M&Z negotiate room that is available for 2 nights if needed as we are thinking of staying two nights but we are still not sure. 650 INR per night. Man tells us we can take brekky at their rooftop restaurant, has tours available etc. Told him we will take a rest and might see him for tea at the restaurant later. Settle in and told each other would nap for half hour... slept in until 9am. Resto for masala tea, no brekky - didn’t feel the vibe, not really a resto, man (staff) keeps trying to sell us on tours, says seeing one of the temples is “complimentary “ as if it came with the stay at their guesthouse. Gloated to other guest (Alex from Italy) that he read that we like hiking from our gear (boots, pants and fleeces) and explained that’s why he keeps trying to sell the tiger reserve tour and hiking tour to us. Not impressed with his manner of approaching us, no genuine interaction and all about non stop selling. Finished our tea and left. Saw free temples (2), had brekky at Guru Kripa Pure Veg Restaurant - Aloo Paratha x2 & masala tea. Then headed to UNESCO World Heritage Site (Western group of temples) - birthplace of karma sutra. Beautiful, ornate, detailed, well kept and well preserved archeological site. Z hungry and belly still sensitive so had western lunch - Margherita pizza. Tried to find a travel agent to enquire about trains to Orchha and booking train tix. Only one helpful agent, the rest kept dodging giving us train ticket pricing and instead tried to push for a private taxi hire to Orchha. Walked out on these shops, unhelpful and could not get anywhere with them. Went back to guesthouse for rest, Zinia’s belly still unwell. Touts are different in this town - very deceiving, disingenuous, annoyingly persistent (don’t respect you when you say no thank you like the touts in Varanasi) and more kids begging and ones that follow you a long way. Had to tell off one child that followed us almost all the way back to our guesthouse despite saying no and ignoring him for a long time. While resting, we decided we want to move on to Orchha tmrw so will stay only 1 night. Checked trains to Orchha and availability- train available midday tmrw. M chatted w man to help book train tix, tried to say this train wasn’t available when he realised we didn’t want to stay for 2 nights. Offered a private driver at an expensive rate. He did accidentally mention a tourist quota for train tix that get released at 6pm so M will check again later. Z feeling better, time for dinner. Will speak now with staff about tourist quota for train and confirm we are staying only one night. Man was very unclear about tourist quota and tried to say there was no tourist quota. Man was trying to say we had told him we would stay 2 nights and he agreed for us to stay in our room for 1300 for 2 nights. Argued this with him and he said “okay fine, I will give you 45 mins to decide if you want to stay 1 or 2 nights”. Z says “45 mins? How about we make it easier and decide now. We are staying one night only.” Heard Tom outside the room and chatted for a while - he too has had same experience with touts and locals and is planning on leaving to Orchha tmrw. Will leave with Tom tmrw and will discuss over dinner. Went to Guru Kripa again for dinner with Tom, met Naresh - lovely host keen to practice his English and to chat about cricket with Tom. Naresh asked if we could keep in contact with him to practice his English and so we can practice our Hindi. Added Tom and Z on WhatsApp. Headed back to guesthouse, got there and saw a group of guys with rifles out the front and started walking away as we walked closer. Went to rooftop and played cards with Tom’s Karma Sutra deck he bought today. President, then Tom taught us “Cambio” game. Talked about transport to Orchha tmrw, Tom mentioned bus to Chhatarpur then transfer bus to Orchha which leaves in the morning. Will do this tmrw instead of train. Meet at lobby tmrw for 8:30am.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Leaving Varanasi

    4. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Z wakes at 5:30am with upset belly. Gastro from Johnny who we found out was sick the day before. Marty up at 8am and made up rehydration salt drink for Z to sip and more sleep. Marty up and gets breakfast at 9am (curry & puri & chai 125, water 20, butter toast 30) at rooftop. Brought Z butter toast and Jalebi that Kailash brought for us to try. Check out at 11am but Shiva says Z can rest in room til 12pm and then rest in dorm room thereafter. M goes out to get a shave - asking 50, gave 30 INR tip. M withdraws more cash, had to go to 3 diff atms - first two would not allow transaction of 10,000+ INR. Z well rested now, and although still unwell, feeling way better than this morning & packed bag for checkout at 12pm. M back at Shiva guesthouse and pack his bag, take downstairs, settle bill and let Z rest more. Go up to rooftop for fresh air, saw that Johnny and Sasha were still in Varanasi and had not left on a train last night like they had planned - now taking same sleeper train as us to Khujaraho at 5:40pm. Z hungry - more butter and honey toast to share. Chill at rooftop - Z now has more energy, leave bags at Shiva and go out for lunch at Monalisa cafe - egg biryani to share, coke and sprite. As we were finishing, Frank joined our table again and chatted for a bit but we left shortly after. Bought bread rolls from brown bread cafe to take with us on train. Head back to Shiva and picked up shower gel from smiley lady at corner shop. Grab takeaway from Shiva - egg biryani and cheese and tomato toasted sandwich to take on train. Met Johnny and Sasha at lobby at 3pm, walked to main road and roundabout ask J&S wanted to take an Uber to Varanasi Junction. Said goodbye to local friends we made along the way (Kopal & Ayush at travel agency, other people who recognisedus and shared smiles and "good mornings" with us). Could not see Uber anywhere on busy roundabout, so just caught a tuktuk 150INR for all 4 of us. Got to train station, trying to find carriage B3, found all the way at other end of platform. Met Regina from Mexico and Tom from England. M&Z having a good chat with Regina and was interrupted by tout from Khujaraho travelling with a German girl (G girl had previously travelled to Khujaraho, met this tout who took her for a “trip” around khujaraho and kept in contact. She did not like Varanasi so called him to pick her up and accompany her to khujaraho..silly girl). Tout bashing and saying how much he hates Varanasi, saying how all people are all cheaters in Varanasi because they talk to you but all they want is your money. In the end he explained he had a tuktuk and he can take us around if he wanted 🤣, he got rejected very quickly and he quickly realisd game would not work on us so left W girl. Z feeling weak again, fell asleep on Marty’s lap, M had a great chat with Regina. M made Z's bed and his, everyone heads to bed. Tomorrow we wake in Khujaraho.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Third Day in Varanasi

    3. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Sleep in this morning. Ate at Aadha Aadha cafe with French and Indian owner. Omelet with toppings with toasted bread and dirty chai for both of us - 400 INR. Walked to main street to find a tuktuk to take us to Baranas Hindu University - 100 INR. University not as well kept as what we expected - lecture rooms very old with chalk board. Got chatting to a student who wanted to practice English and learn more about Australia - he took a unit in geography and studied Australia, PhD in mathematics doing modelling for food systems. Looked at library and temple on campus. So many beggars by the temple, using children. Got rickshaw to monkey temple (Durga Temple). Bargained for 80 INR and got our price because other tuktuk and rickshaw drivers approached its while bargaining. Enjoyed temple from outside - had to take off shoes to enter and lots of beggars outside temple - didn't want to lose hiking boots! Walked to Assi Ghat then back to alleyways near main Ghat to find a place for lunch. Went to Mona Lisa cafe - chicken biryani, garlic naan and plain sweet lassi. Busy cafe and met Frank who joined our table. He's from Armadale NSW, recognised us and remembered we are Canadian and Australian because had seen and heard us chatting with locals yesterday, he travels to India often since his 30s (now 60s) and is relearning Hindi. Ordered latte to share and an apple crumble. Lunch 400 INR total. Went out for a stroll towards northern burning ghat then walked back to guesthouse for a chill. Went to enjoy the views at our favourite spot in Varanasi, the rooftop of Shiva guesthouse. Then to Ginger Cafe (Shiva guesthouse rooftop resto) to enjoy a masala tea. Chatted with Shiva and Roddi. Shiva says Kailash had brought Jalebi for us to try this morning but we weren't there - will bring again tomorrow morning. Special Thali to share for dinner: jeera rice, dal, butter paneer masala, veg curry with bonus paneer (courtesy of Shiva), paratha, and plain lassi. Got 1L water to go. Total 360 INR. Chill in room for rest of night. Early night.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Second day in Varanasi

    2. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Great nights sleep for both zinia and I. M awake at 6:30 and Z sleeps in until 7:30. Up and ready to leave Babu guest house by 8:30. Check out and pay for Babu (1200rupee) and head over to our new guest house Shiva. Heap up to restaurant on roof of Shiva and have breakfast - veg curry and puri and masala tea (125r ea). Check in to our new room after breakfast then head to cafe and have a coffee while waiting for travel agents to open. At 11 walk to check prices from different travel agents for sleeper train to Khajuraho. Purchase 3A sleep tickets (875r ea). Walk out of main Ghat area and walk streets north while negotiating with tuk tuk drivers for a ride to Sarnath. End up in tuk tuk with two young guys and have a crazy drive to Sanath temple (250r - 50tip). Experienced our first Indian traffic - people intrigued by us and wanted to talk to us. Made friends with police officer directing traffic, guy on scooter next to us. Walk around sarnath and see ruins and temple. Get street food snack/late lunch - egg roll and noodle curry puff (45r - 5tip). Negotiate tuk tuk back to main Ghat (250r). Walk Main Street back to guest house, stop for a dosa (50r) buy toothpaste (10r) on the way and also a chat with the travel agent and his friends. Chill at guest house.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    First Full Day in Varanasi

    1. december 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Wake early for sunrise at “Ganga” (Ganges). Z wakes at 5:10 to turn hot water on for shower. M wakes 5:30, shower then out the shop side door by 6:15am. Walk out to main ghat, locals and one foreigner bathing in Ganges. Many touts asking if we want boat ride, not too pushy and respectful if you politely say “no thank you”. Walked along river passing many ghats. Some touts asking if Z is Japanese or Vietnamese. M&Z sit on ghat to take in beauty and people watch. Local man bathing w his family taking photos of his family bathing in river, intrigued by us just enjoying views and starts taking photo of us. Man urges wife to sit next to Z and took photo, man wanted to take photo of Z and his wife. Invited man to sit w Z and his wife for a photo. Breakfast at Spicey Bites and meet Nepalese staff member. Only place open for breakfast. Had toast, egg, roti pancake w cheese, roti pancake with Nutella and ginger lemon tea. 250 INR ea set. Walked around to find Another guesthouse for next 2 nights. Found Shiva Guesthouse and meet Kailash. Showed us fancy room and asking 2000 INR online, giving us 1500. Bargained low at 750INR, given a no. Got to know him more and found out about his rooftop restaurant. Said we will check out and probably have a coffee. Chatted more and Kailash agreed to give us room for 1000 INR but explained nice room is only available at that price for 1 night. He said if we wait 2-3 hrs, he can show us 2 other rooms that have a nice view of Ganga and he will also give to us for 1000 if we like. Took coffee at rooftop restaurant and met brother Shiva. Z had headache so rest at guesthouse 30 mins. Walked to popular Blue Lassi - papaya banana lassi for Z, coffee banana lassi for M - 160 INR. While eating lassis, saw a few families taking deceased to burning Ghat nearby. Ornate and colourful decorations on the dead. Walked to burning Ghat after lassi. Beautiful ceremony - families wash body with decorations in Ganga, then taken back up to Ghat for cremation ceremony. Beautiful. Walked to more Ghats to the south, see 2 boats being repaired. Walked back
    to Shiva guesthouse to see other rooms. Not as nice as first room. Kailash explained that if we prefer the nicer room, he can make the room available for 2 nights (not just 1) and we can pay only 1000 INR - he says he believes we are good people and are nice. He said most tourists don't talk to him and just bargain rudely. Lunch at Shiva rooftop restaurant. First indian dish - plain Thali to share. Learn that children in Varanasi love to fly kites. Go to Top of building & such a beautiful sight - so many kites in the sky from rooftops!! Children playing game where they cut each other's kites down. If they cut one down, they run to collect it and it becomes theirs! Such skill with only one string on each kite. Walked out to closest Ghat, walked South and found another burning ghat, stayed longer to see a full ceremony. Walked further to Assi Ghat then back north to go back to Babu guesthouse. Rest until 1745h then headed to main Ghat to watch Aarti ceremony (prayer to the Ganges). Sat with locals for ceremony. Stayed an hour but left early before crowd - walked through alleyways and found restaurant for dinner. First full authentic Indian dinner - butter chicken (block chicken 😂) with garlic naan and rice, plain lassi 480 INR. M tired, walked back to guesthouse for early night. Set up mosquito net and bed at 2030h.    Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019

    Leaving Sukhothai

    30. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Zinia up at 5:30 and Marty 6am and ready to leave guesthouse at 6:30am. Walk to Sukhothai bus station and catch songtheaw to airport (18TBH each). See the monks pig walking around the streets on the way. Eat our 7/11 breakfast in back of songtheaw on way to airport. Arrive at airport for 8am and check into flight to Bangkok - small and fancy airport that looks like a safari resort (there are zebras and giraffes next to the terminal). Free food at terminal including sticky rice and banana chips. Board plane and depart for Bangkok at 9am (1hr flight) small and empty plane. 2hr layover at Bangkok. Get 1500 Indian rupee from money exchange. 2pm flight from Bangkok to Varanasi (4hr flight). Arrived Varanasi airport and got visa. Sun about to set by the time we got out of the airport so decide to take taxi to town instead of local bus to save time. 500 rupee for taxi and meet Achintya from Deli in taxi who is visiting Varanasi for his cousins wedding. Lovely guy who give us some local tips and helps us get a tuk tuk into central Varanasi (roads are closed from 2km out due to festival). Crazy tuk tuk ride through back alleys to Dashashwamedh Ghat. Walk to Ghat and see the Ganges for the first time and catch aarti then find parallel alley with some guest houses. Find a guest house that looks nice (Babu guest house owned by Santos) and check out the rooms to negotiate a price (double room for 600 rupee ($12). Check in and meet Santos daughter (Joyti) and his wife (Rita) and chat with them for a while before heading back to walk the along the Ganges. Stumble across Brown Bread cafe while walking home and head up to rooftop for dinner. Chat with the guys playing music and other travellers before heading home and into bed around 11pm.Læs mere

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  • Thailand & India 2019
    1

    Sukhothai Adventures

    29. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Early start today to beat tourist rush in old city. Got keys forrental scooter and left guesthouse at 6AM. Market near old city entrance - got our light brekky, waffles w. raisins. Bicycle hire vendor across entrance 30THB ea, Park entrance for 2 ppl + scooter 210 THB. Beautiful ruins! Tour groups began arriving just as we were leaving. Went back to new city for coffee and wifi - blog, more research on Varanasi & things to see near Sukhothai. Decided we would go see Si Satchanalai Historical Park in the north then to Chao Ram Cave in the west to see bats flying out of the cave at sunset. But first got an hr massage with our girls at the temple, Pi Tew (Z's masseuse) and Pi unknown (M's) & said goodbyes. Headed to ruins at historical park, stopped for lunch by a treehouse - met resto keeper who spoke Dutch, no English (met a few ppl in Sukhothai that are trilingual - French and Spanish) - got bonus egg with ka paow moo krop for ordering completely in Thai. Lovely lady. Got to ruins and kept visit short to get to cave on time. 1.5-2hr ride to cave. Road now getting rural and needed fuel - stopped at a family petrol station, petrol from glass bottle and tube. Was told to hurry to catch bats, M goes faster on scooter. Journey to cave was beautiful! Arrived JUST IN TIME for sunset and saw bats flying out of cave. Spectacular!! Rode out of cave park in dark - so many bugs hitting our faces on the ride out of the park !! 😂 Street food for dinner, one last smoothie from our favourite vendors "Ma & Pa". Ma's surprise choice of fruits, refreshing! Breakfast snack pick up at 711 then home. Paid Jim 2 night stay and scooter hire 1050THB. Waking early tmrw to catch 8:50am flight to Bangkok.Læs mere

  • Thailand & India 2019

    Catch up Day in Sukhothai

    28. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    First sleep-in morning in Thailand, no alarm set. Woke around 8:30am, found travel journal app, started catch up blog in bed. Need to book 2 extra nights w. Jim. On the way to reception, met Jean-Jacques and Anna (live south of London, met each other in Pai, and have known Jim for 20yrs). They suggested to ask Jim about a really good massage at local temple/primary school. Breakfast at guesthouse. Mainly western food available. 2 omlettes, 30THB each. Booked massage w. Jim 250THB ea for 1&1/2h and transport at 11:30am. Walked into town to get laundry done. Bubble tea place on the way, taro bbt for 40THB. Found place for laundry 80THB, ready at 5pm. Walked back to JJGuesthouse for massage - best massage we’ve had in Thailand - attentive, firm massages! Dropped off at guesthouse and napped for M. Z blog and downloaded map for India, map out accom in Varanasi, mapped out temples in old Sukhothai for day trip tmrw. Lunch at market/canteen nearby - tried Sukhothai noodle soup and omelette pad Thai. Found cafe nearby to do paperwork - pay November house bills, credit card bill, msg friends, call Heather, plan old town day trip tmrw, update blog. Headed back for chill at guesthouse and update blog. Out for dinner at one of vendors in town..so many markets.. seemed like every street had a market! M found a vendor selling street doughnuts 😂! 2 timbits (1THB ea) + 1 custard filled doughnut (5THB ea). Also tried waffle with corn ordered, lady added thai golden egg yolk threads as bonus - asking 15THB, gave 20THB. Headed to canteen again for dinner, smiley Phitsanu (named after Phitsanulok where he was born) waved hello with big smile - had great chat! He is an English teacher but he became our Thai teacher! Thai: Ging - talented, plaa - fish, ka paow moo krop - crispy pork with rice, nam - water, sai kai - with egg, tah-lin - cheeky, Khao Khai jiaw moo sap -rice w omelette with minced pork. Said goodbye and walked to bridge for dinner. Had pad see eew and ka paow moo krop. Headed back to guesthouse and ran into Jean-Jacques and Anna heading out for a drink. Chatted for a while and headed back for early night. Waking at 5:15am tmrw for an early start to see ruins in old city - before tourist rush. Filled out forms to hire scooter from Jim tomorrow morning (250THB for the day) then bed.Læs mere

  • Thailand & India 2019

    Arrival into Sukhothai

    27. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    6:45 wake up. 7:40 check out siriwan house. Breakfast at old mates (130b). 8:10 Songtheaw to train station (80b). 8:50 train from CNX to Phitsanulok (470b). Tuk tuk to Phitsanulok bus station and the minibus to Sukhothai (new city) with Natasha, Mikah, & Jan (3YO) from Slovenia. Walked into town and chatted to some travelers. Walked to find guesthouse JJ House on river bank and checked in with owner Jim (girl). Checked email and found that our India visa on arrival permissions granted. Sat by river and booked fights to Varanasi for Saturday. Monks started chant at temple opposite accommodation. Walked streets to find dinner (70THB)Læs mere

  • Thailand & India 2019

    Chiang Mai - Too many Changs!

    26. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    6:30am start, MZ brekky w JC, found only shop open for brekky that early: 2 eggs+topping, 2coffees, 2 bread rolls w butter 140baht $7AUD. Z&JC picked up at SH at 7:30am for Maerim elephant tour, M stay at SH

    Zinia: songtheaw w JC, met CAN and American mum&daughter duo Ellie & Jess (cool mum), arrive maerim, change of clothes, learn about abuse of Chang, learn how to feed and approach, fill bags w pumpkin and bananas. Feed and pet/hug elephants, 1 baby (2YO), 1 mum and stepmum, some like bananas, some like pumpkin only, slurping noise, sand bath, learn about elephants (sleep 3 hrs only, standing, one eye half open, trunk on ground for vibration, bisexuality, African vs Asian, tears=sweat, ferremone sweat at temple, 4mill baht to save one Chang). Mud bath w elephant and mud fight, bathe Chang and selves in river, wash off by pool, beer and soup making, late for departure bc of tourist trap looking at photos for purchase. SH w JC, JC back to HH for shower, Z stay w M to sort trip to Nepal/India

    Marty: researched overland travel from Nepal to Varanasi- India and Visa requirements. Found out that it will take 5 working days to get India visa when in Kathmandu and have to be there for whole time. Researched alternatives including getting pre-approved visa on arrival and flights to Varanasi. Found out it will take up to 72hrs for pre approved visa on arrival and researched process. Went for a walk of old town Chiangmai to get a coffee from SongBird cafe (closed down since last visit). Went back to Siriwan Guesthouse and prepared documents for India visa (took ages filling out online forms for me and zinia).

    Z dropped off at SH w JC at 1:30-2:00pm (late), JC back to HH for shower. M brief Z on India Visa, no longer able to travel to Nepal to minimise time loss for India trip, need to get photos taken for India Visa app. M & Z walk 5 mins fr SH to get photos taken (quick). Finish Visa app at SH. Decided will take train to Sukhothai instead of Nepal - on list to see fr 2017 so might as well! M lunch at fav corner restaurant, Z smoothie. Rest at SH, Z shower. Met JC, Will, Lucy at SH 4:45. Walk to catch songtheaw to see monk sunset chant at Doi Suthep. Dodgey drive up. Arrive at temple for sunset. Couldn’t hear monks chant, photos view of CM, walk around temple, Lucy naughty - rings giant bell and runs away, found monks chanting, sat w monks - hypnotic, walk back to our songtheaw- 400THB round trip (cheap). Night market dinner: skewer share, 4 plate share, JC had soup, Chang x2 share, Lucy pour w lots of head, share coconut pancake (M pick), thai pancake (Z), roti banana w honey (JC), roti w banana Nutella, condensed milk suggested by chef. Walk to SH w everyone to give W ReverieSiam gift and wedding keepsakes. Goodbye to JC and W&L. Tuk tuk to train station 80THB, buy 2nd class tix to Phitsanulok. Walk and Songtheaw back to Old City 60THB. Back to SH. Bed at 10:30pmq    Læs mere

  • Thailand & India 2019

    Chiang Mai

    25. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Leave Pai Country Hut, breakfast, catch 10am bus from Pai to Chiang Mai. Arrive from Pai at 1pm, lunch at corner restaurant $6AUD for 2 basil minced w rice, coke and best spring rolls share, check in Siriwan House 1 night, met with JChiang at Hillda House, walk to SH to show JC, booked elephant tour w JC, booked extra night at SH, massage by ex-con, night market dinner: coconut pancake,skewers, khao soix2, Chang, Thai dessert soup, roti banana honey. Walk JC to HH and home for us.Læs mere

  • Thailand & India 2019

    Saying Goodbye to Reverie Siam

    24. november 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    4am up for zinia to say goodbye to Rey, breakfast, said goodbye to Lisa and Steve, then Heather and Keith, then Claire, Alex, Colin, Gail, then Jocelyn. Cha-yen lesson from PaoPao then goodbye to Anne and Regan. Next our turn & said goodbye to Ben and staff. Check in Pai Country Hut. Cake, wifi, chayen at Carrot on the Moon, photo w. Wedding cake baker. Massage w. Pi May & Pi Wew. Thai Lesson. suksong: naughty, Di Ma: good (feeling), jaydee: good heart, soobsoob: kiss kiss. Meet will, Lucy and Christine at bridge but found walking street. Pizza and lasagne dinner, walking street food, jazz bar, home.Læs mere

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