• Coleen Paul
  • Coleen Paul

Camino 2017

A 46-day adventure by Coleen Read more
  • Trip start
    August 30, 2017

    All trails lead to ...

    August 29, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Months of coulee and mountain hikes, are now behind us. The Camino beckons and we can't wait to put our hiking boots to path.

  • A City of Immigrants

    September 6, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    I was struck today by the realization that Dublin is as much a city of immigrants as any in Canada. We were guided first by a fellow from Nigeria and then a woman from Latvia, into the arms of Ana, the Brazilian who is our B&B host. Our appetites were sated by lunch at a Hare Krishna eatery and then supper at a Korean fish monger's establishment. Sightseeing was full on Irish though. We toured Dublin Castle, Killmainham Gaol, and Christchurch Cathedral. Walking past the Catholic Church of St. James reminded us of the reason for our journey as it is an official part of the Camino for Irish pilgrims.Read more

  • Irish Immersion

    September 9, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Dublin is not stuffy despite its stately architecture. Softening touches such as colorful doorways, murals and quotations from famous authors/poets give tourists lots to look at and ponder. But poetry isn't left to the scholars. Locals have fun naming their public art. My favorite was a mermaid statue "The Floozy in the Jacuzzi".Read more

  • Symbols Along The Way

    September 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    From graffiti to sponsored public art, from abandoned hiking gear to decorated public fountains, we pilgrims have much inspire, shock and delight us!

  • The Camino Provides

    September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    What a day! Six pictures just doesn't cover it. Although it was barely 9 AM, we lined up for the Fuente Vino to fill a small water bottle with red wine for our noon meal. Today's alternate route took us through woodlands and agricultural lands reminding us that we came to the Camino for the walking. But aside from that, we found accordion entertainment at a cross roads and an orange juice vendor at another oasis. We've met pilgrims from all over the world, passing and then reconnecting with them at unexpected times. Something familiar in otherwise days of new beginnings.Read more

  • Beehives to Ghostowns

    September 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Our track today lead us through the famous ochre soils of Rioja. Grape vines to the left, olives to the right, most of the way. Rioja provides many picnic sites for its pilgrims as well as a most helpful series of kilometer markers. At one of the earlier picnic sites we saw this beehive shaped structure. Much of the last half of our day followed a country road, newly graded and topped with a mustard colored rock. Just as Dorothy before us, our track lead to a surreal location. Ciruena was built during the boom and more or less abandoned during the down turn. Our albergue is straight out of a psychedelic dream.Read more

  • To the Artists

    September 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I was struck today by how much the early church and present day Camino support the artistic community. Generations of stonemasons and sculptors built the cathedrals we've visited. Painters and stained glass artists colored them. Today, municipalities have put a lot of money into sculptures, murals, logos and all manner of public art to honor the pilgrims. But let's not forget the Chefs whose work may not be as permanent, but just as appreciated!Read more

  • Walk for the Ages

    September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Our walk today started in the mists and continued through oak forests over a pass to a remote monastery. Plenty of time to contemplate and commune with nature. Our destination, Ages, is a quaint little town, alive ONLY because of the pilgrimage.Read more

  • How Far We've Come

    September 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our day started near Atapuerca where our earliest ancestors have been unearthed. The Way lead us to Burgos and the Catedral de Santa Maria XIII. The simple to the ornate ... And here we are attempting to return to the basic.Read more

  • Tranquillo

    September 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We've left the bustle of Burgos behind us and opted for a short day - around 20 km rather than 30. The Meseta reminds us of home on the prairies, big skies, sun baked fields, and sparse populations. Far fewer pilgrims meant we had much of the way to ourselves, such a change from the last few days. The rhythm of our poles and the vast horizons lulled me into a much more contemplative mood.Read more

  • The Camino Provides ...work

    September 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Many of the small towns we pass through owe their existence to the pilgrims. Populations of 70 quadruple for a few hours each evening and then empty out by 8 AM again so the albergues can clean and ready themselves again for the onslaught at 2 PM. How they make enough on 10 euro beds and meals is a mystery.Read more

  • The Unexpected

    September 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Color in the dawn's light, the harvest and a painter's pallette. Playfulness in gamboling sheep and a pilgrim's sculpture.

  • Lightened Heart

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    In the year and half since Marita's heart skipped its final beat, I've been collecting heart shaped stones. We've added dozens to our rock garden and inside decor. As we were so vigilante about weight on the Camino, I told myself that I wasn't going to pick up any on the way, BUT I have been tempted by 2. The strange thing is that they both disappeared from my pack. Perhaps it is a sign that I've moved on to a lighter heart. Remembering Marita on her birthdayRead more

  • Raindrops on Roses ...

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Footbaths at the end of a 30 km walk, amigos made along The Way, OVER HALF done our walk ... these are a few of my favorite things! Scott is Rey of the Castillo atop a hill riddled with manmade caves (Bodegas) for holding wine at the proper temperature. Paulo, be gone!!!Read more

  • Until We Meet Again

    September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Some familiar faces that have shared the trail or a common meal with us are leaving The Way. Andres catches a train back to Madrid for work, Barbara and Francisca (and their doggie pawed chaos tubes) return to Italy, the Belgians - Rosette, Eric, & Adelan - will finish in Leon, Jean-Luis and his wife have returned to their farm near Orloron St.Marie, we've lost track of the Germans - Hagen, Elsbeth, et al. Hyun Sook Shin, who walks more slowly, may intersect with our Camino again. BUT with shared contact information, who knows where we will meet again.Read more

  • What a Pilgrim Needs

    September 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    A simple map, a path, and kindness along the way. There is very little else a Pilgrim needs. This fellow had set up a rest stop along a barren section of our trail this morning. He had constructed geodesic domes for a simple bathroom and sun shelter. On offer was coffee, tea, freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh fruits, cookies and meusli bars. He stamped our Passports and brightened our day! Another farmstead had practical supplies for walkers and cyclers alike. Hospital de Orbiga constructed this amazing bridge for pilgrims years ago to help with the river crossing - ok, so bridges are great to have too!Read more

  • Body, Mind, & Spirit

    September 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We completed the rigorous Body section of our journey by conquering the Pyrennes, danced through the Mind challenging Meseta, and now begin the final third with the Spiritual realm. What better way to begin but at an Albergue run by a group of back to the earth, vegetarian, musicians. After at least 2 hours of yoga, meditation and spiritual guidance, we were lead to the dining room for another meditation/blessing of the food and a sing along grace before finally diving into Crisp Green Salad with Apple and Pomegranate Arils in Mustard Honey Dressing; Cauliflower Soup; Pesto and Roasted Pepper Bruschetta with a choice of Mushroom or Eggplant; Hummus with carrots, zucchini and/or wholemeal bread; and Spice Cake for dessert. Food for the soul indeed!Read more

  • Autumn Arrives

    September 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We walked through highlands shrouded in autumn colors today. Grape vines are particularly beautiful as they turn ... wine colored! Trees planted along our path shed Maple-like leaves, but the bitter East wind has yet to gain momentum. The Knights Templar castle in Ponferrada is stunning in size and repair. Nothing fancy, but a spectacle just the same. Day 21, we are 3/4 the way through our Camino.Read more

  • Paths Less Taken

    October 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    If offered an alternate route, we take it. They tend to be less traveled, more scenic, and remote ... albeit longer. Today's took us up an extra 600 meters, out of the vineyards and into the chestnut groves with their magestic ambience softened by the fuzzy seed case! Less than 200 km left to Santiago - we climb O'Cebrerio tomorrow. Hoping for clear skies.Read more

  • Falling in Love with Galicia

    October 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After 21 days of Hostel living, last night Scott and I had a room AND shower to ourselves! Renewed, we set out for O'Cebreiro, under star lit skies, and then came the Big Reveal. A perfect day, sun drenched hillsides, and bright blue skies made selecting today's pictures agonizingly difficult. To top it off, we've landed at a well run albergue with a pilgrim's communal dinner in a traditional building pictured here.Read more

  • Footsteps

    October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Following this ancient trail, we've been awed by all those who having gone before us. The trails, deeply furrowed in places have been lined with stone walls, some over 7 feet in height, to keep the hillsides from giving way. This 800 year old tree helped feed generations of pilgrims. Samos monastery, from the 6th century, continues to support its faithful. Modern day volunteers supplement official signposts with helpful spray painted way signs. Long before The Way became a Christian pilgrimage, the land inspired earlier generations to walk its length to the end of the earth and the dying sun in Finisterre.Read more

  • Contemplative Mood

    October 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Cocooned in the woodland paths today, the deeply rutted trail beneath me, hand made stone walls each side, and forest canopy above, I've found my steps slowing, each experience more nuanced. Less than 100 kms to Santiago.Read more

  • It's a Wonderful Life

    October 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Today's celebration started with a rock picked up along the Camino, soon followed by a video of last night's bunkmates singing Happy Birthday. Another rendition was sung by Jesus and Paulo's troupe when we met at a breakfast stop. I was presented with handpicked walnuts by a smiling elderly Spanish man and lots of Happy Birthday e-mail messages - many of which were orchestrated by my best friend and love of my life, Scott. Thanks to all who participated! I've had a truly wonderful day.

    Supper was a Pulpa Feast - octopus!
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  • Graffiti ...

    October 6, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    along The Way tends to range from religious to New Age, Simon & Garfunkel to John Lennon. But this morning's message read, "I'm almost to the end and I haven't found the answers. This is all a hoax."

    We often hear, "The Way provides. " I'd add ... opportunity ... In the gift of living in community with strangers, one has the opportunity to learn a lot about one's self. In the discipline of moving each day toward the unknown, one has the opportunity to learn to conquer fears. In the quiet of the morning mists, one has the opportunity to listen to one's inner knowing. And under the dazzling night sky, one has the opportunity to recapture wonder.
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