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Kir McLinn
Kir McLinn

Kir McLinn

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  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Statia - Hike the Quill Volcano

    February 21, 2016 in Bonaire ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    St. Eustatius was also the first to salute the United States as a sovereign nation (yay!). Back in the day when a ship came into port with it’s colors flying high they would shoot a few cannons to announce their arrival. The receiving port would fire back a friendly fire to welcome the new vessel. The greater number of canon shots the greater the respect for the nation and captain onboard. English hotshot, Admiral Rodney received word of the historic salute, and the British had enough of these “neutral Dutch” providing the enemy Americans with arms and provisions. Admiral Rodney attacked IMG_7587Statia and pilfered the lucrative trading port. It’s said Rodney was suspicious of his “loot” and noticed there was an oddly high amount of burials taking place. He ordered
    his men to open up the caskets only to find…. the towns riches being hidden below ground. As if that’s not enough, Rodney ransacked the Jewish quarters and noticed the people were heavily dressed. He sliced the pockets and hems of their coats. The Jewish townsmen had sewn their coins into the inseams of their clothing. Rodney got that too. What. A. Jerk.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Statia (St. Eustatius)

    February 20, 2016 in Bonaire ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    What makes the island so fascinating (to me at least) is the history. The Dutch islandStatia trade was an integral international trading post (duty free) between the 17-19 centuries.
    Hundreds of ships would dock/anchor in the bustling harbor ready to sell, barter, and buy between the Spanish, Dutch, English, and Americans (even during wartime periods). The coast looked very different back then with stone trading posts lining the harbor. “Their defense was their utility.” Even now, there are old stone foundations everywhere on this island.Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    We're Not Lost, We're On An Island

    February 19, 2016 in Bonaire ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Sailing from White House St. Kitts to Statia was an active sail. St. Kitts’ towering mountains forced the wind to funnel around the harbor at odd angles forcing sail changes every 30 minutes. Once we were in “open” water, the northerly swells hit us but we were still cruising along at 6.7 -7.1 knots.

    I had my nose in a book so when I saw Statia (St. Eustatius) it was impressive. Straight from the coastline the island shoots straight up a few hundred feet. A slab of limestone greets you from the Southeast known as the White Wall.

    We came to Statia a bit hesitant since the anchorage is rather unprotected and subject to a “bumpy night” if there are sea swells from the North (which there was). Unfortunately, even with a stern anchor out, the rolls could not be ignored and were bothersome. Any trepidation I had for the anchorage left me the second we grabbed a mooring and I looked up at Oranjestad. This place was positively medieval and captured my attention.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    White Horse Bay St. Kitts

    February 18, 2016 in Saint Kitts and Nevis ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    At the end of the day we all ended up in White House Bay to hide from Southeasterly rolling waves for the night. Our friends continued onward to other islands but Mike and I still had some exploring to do in St. Kitts. We explored the bar next to us which was far too posh for us. But it had so many great features, we were suckered into the ambiance and ordered our high-class cocktails. They had a pimped-out dinghy dock with underwater nightlights so you could see the fishes below. The lounging couches had fine wooden pulley system for decorations, sail pillows & throw cushions for couches under firelight lamps, and my favorite, the hammocks that extended over the water with underwater lights below. We met some rad kids from the bay area at the bar who were a riot. And before we left, we laid in the hammocks. The next day Mike threw his phone in the water but with cat-like reflexes snatched it out of the water. We continued the day with a hike with beautiful views of the Atlantic and Caribbean oceans. When we were trying to hail a taxi to reggae beach who else showed up but the rad bay area kids on their scooters. They gave us a ride to the beach and showed us where to eat. Sure enough we had some great cocktails (mudslide!!!) and the best roti Mike and I have eaten thus far. In the end people in St. Kitts want to make sure you have a good time. Great place, can’t wait to return.Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    St. Kitts Touring the Main Land

    February 18, 2016 in Saint Kitts and Nevis ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The next day we met with our friends Tom/Megs & Nils/ Lisa. While figuring transportation to Brimstone Hill Fort, a street food chef came over to us hurriedly said ‘ I have a present for you.’ then puts two kicking lobsters in my hand and walks away to tend to his grill. …uh…. what?!?!. I eventually gave them back and we found a van to the fort. WOW what a fort, it was so picturesque, standing prominently on an enormous monolith of land. Even driving up to it was fun. A guardhouse on one of the hairpin turns held about 6 lounging cats with a sign next to them that said ‘no dogs allowed’. The fort was very well restored and held really great informational stations. The premises were great to explore and we made the most of it. Especially when we scaled the side of a wall to see the captains quarters….Once we were all “forted-out” we visited an old batik plantation which was immaculate with old trees and lovely gardens.Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    St. Kitts Arrival

    February 17, 2016 in Saint Kitts and Nevis ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We had a phenomenal sail to St. Kitts… a nice leisurely broad reach with 4-6 foot rollers trailing us. It was neat to see the Kingdom of Redonda’s cliffs come into view. Its an uninhabited micronation. From 1865-1912 there was a lucrative phosphates export business into Britain. As for the history of this steep little tyke…. look it up…. it’s shrouded in mystery. Apparently a trader in Montserrat noticed no other nation lay claim to the neighboring island. So he took it upon himself to claim it for him and his son.

    As we neared St. Kitts, Nevis came into view. A green island with a great mountain that disappeared into white clouds, it was just as Christopher Columbus had found Nevis. We entered the customs port of St. Kitts in Basse Terre where large rolling waves tore through the anchorage. This was not going to make for a quiet calm night. So we motored into a marina for some luxury sleep. Yay! We cleared in next to two titanic-looking cruise ships…. I will never trust a cruise ship that large. I just don’t get it.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Montserrat

    February 14, 2016 in Montserrat ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Montserrat home to Soufriere Hills volcano, one of the most monitored active volcanos. Quite the following.

    We left Antigua and headed Southwest to the Northern tip of Montserrat. A rain shower got in our way so no pictures to parade about this time. But the approach to the island was magnificent. Beautiful dramatic cliffs that plunge straight down into clear waters.

    We anchored in the only clearing-in harbor, Little Bay. The anchorage tends to be rolley particularly when Northerly winds prevail. Even in our luck with due East winds, we found the anchorage to be uncomfortable on our ketch. The two masts make our boat more top heavy than sloops or cutter rigs so when a beam side-roller hits the boat we keep rolling back and forth whilst other boats bob like a cork.

    Coming in, we knew the “must-do” tour of the volcano runs around $100-130 USD. Yikes! 4 hours and you see the town Plymouth which was covered in 40 feet of ash, Richmond Hill, and the Volcano Observatory. Since we were just two lonesome folks…. we thought that was outrageous. So we decided to take the local buses which will run you $5.00 EC or $1.85 USD. Yay! Prices I like.

    We wandered to the bus stop with a few locals helping us along the way. Everyone was laid back and genuinely nice. Throughout the day we spotted hints of the Irish past. McCoy Hill, Pudding & Pies stores, green lucky charms over old pubs called Sullivans. A long time ago the Irish laid claim to the Northeast side of Montserrat. The people of Montserrat celebrate St. Patricks Day but for more reasons than one…. there was a great slave rebellion that is remembered on that day. Our bus driver told us about the island and dropped us off at the observatory. He gave us his story in remembering the ’95 eruption. Thousands of people left the island but more relocated, leaving their homes behind. The observatory had a moving and interesting 20 minute video that we really enjoyed. The ’95 eruption allowed for the largest pyroclastic flows to be recorded on camera. Unbelievably enormous blooms of smoke billowed up into the sky for miles and miles.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Antigua - Green Island to Jumby Bay

    February 11, 2016 in Antigua and Barbuda ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The following morning we made way for Jumby bay, where all the hoity toity folks go to vacation and I can see why. It was perfect. Z anchored for us.

    Our third sail Kristen took over from Jumby Bay to Deep Bay She says crazy things like ‘if I was an actual sailor, I’d probably be better at this.’ but I’ve never had to give her pointers on sailing and she kicks tarantulas and saves dinghies from drifting out to sea. Again, yes. Badass Kristen saved our dinghy. We dinghy-ed to a nearby island to snorkel. We were all floating around, snorkeling, and Kristen looks up and doesn’t see Mike or Kirsten or … a dinghy on land! She looked out into bay and there was our dinghy floating away! K and Zirolli wrestled ole ‘Angry Horse’ (my nickname for the dinghy) back to land for us!

    In Deep Bay we explored more old ruins and we made pizza. I’m starting to see Mike and I don’t get tired of forts ( or volcanos). I think the sun and rum had started to affect us because we all didn’t make it past 10:00 that night.

    We sailed back into Dickenson Bay into the wind and enjoyed a last hurrah dinner on land in a British pub / restaurant (trip advisors reviews said it best with a blunt ‘if you’re not British, don’t bother.’) . Despite the review us “non-Limeys” enjoyed the food, and outdoor seating.

    nd on Feb 13 we said our goodbyes and went on our ways. Different paths to our separate duties. As they left, I laughed at my crazy tarantula-kicking and amazing sailing friends, glad that nothing had changed after not seeing them for months on end.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Kristen & Z Visit Antigua

    February 9, 2016 in Antigua and Barbuda ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Up until now, Mike and I had been sailing and anchoring/mooring/docking Gaia just the two of us. For four months we’ve traveled on this 42 foot beauty together. We sleep in a ‘bed’ (in boat jargon, we say berth), called the V-berth (aptly named because it’s in the shape of a V), where our toes touch every night. The living room, dinning room, “back door” (mid hatch), bathroom, and kitchen are all in the same 12.5 by 8.5 feet of space. In case your wondering… yes… yes I did measure that. And in all of this time, in this confined area, and tried with uncomfortable and dangerous sailing conditions at times… we’re still really happy. Any differences of opinions we work out. And I think the worst argument we ever got into was over an anchoring location 2 months ago. That said, I was super excited to have our first visitors in the Caribbean and a bit hesitant… it’s been so long since I’ve seen my Boston friends… how does this friendship thing work again…. will they remember me? do they still like me? I hope Gaia doesn’t make them puke. All these crazy thoughts were lost the second I saw their beautiful (cough..pale…cough) New England faces come out of the airport security line in Antigua! We had a phenomenal dinner; Kristen had an exceptional bass dinner and then we had drinks at The Lime where the bar counter is 6 feet off the ground.
    The next morning we moved to a more scenic part of English Harbor; and snorkeled, saw the museum, explored the old fort, and stumbled upon some spectacular rum. We were only in line to get a gallon of water… but one thing led to another and we had English Harbor rum. That night we hiked to Shirley Point and saw an amazing swimming hole. It was a simple hike and made even better by the steel drum band and local bbq on top.

    The sun set, the air was cool the grass was soft the steel drums melodic… life with Kristen and Z was sublime. And then Kristen kicked a tarantula.
    Yes. Kristen… kicked… a tarantula. And if this picture alone makes you unsettled just think, Kristen was wearing sandals…. So we started the hike back down in the dark with only one headlamp and an iPhone for light. We all moved fairly agile down the path packed with rocks, mud, and roots and then Mike comes to a sudden halt, (Kristen in front) and declares ‘no way’ as he shines his headlamp at the forrest floor. This big guy laid curled up. Mike explained that Kristen had just kicked something and it moved. We saw hermit crabs the size of “your face” and chased schools of fishes jumping out of the water in the dinghy. It was a great night… maybe the rum punch was spiked.

    Our first sail was from English Harbor to Green Island and good ole Zirolli was behind the helm the entire time.

    We took a break for a late lunch behind a reef where the water was really inviting. In very shallow water and a bit of a current, Zirolli expertly hitched a dock line onto the mooring. And once secured, of course we jumped in and swam in that perfect turquoise-light blue water. After our fill of swimming, we made anchor on the Northeast side of Green Island for the night, which was a real treat. You see, the trade winds always blow from a general Easterly direction…. and East of Antigua is the entire Atlantic Ocean. This allows for some pretty big waves to build up but a reef protects this anchorage from those nasty seas. So our view to the East was the endless Atlantic which falls off into the horizon.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Back to Antigua - Pigeon Island

    February 3, 2016 in Guadeloupe ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We left Pigeon Island in such awe, it warranted another stop and another day of snorkeling. As did Deshaies. Love to the freedom we lived while in Guadeloupe.

    To the West the sun is setting over a seamless horizon of the Caribbean ocean and I am moving about the boat in vain to gain a stronger internet connection so I may write emails and see what friends back home are doing in winter. I hold my computer up like a baby Simba before yielding to the lack of signal and retire to the bow of the boat to journal about our anchorage instead. (It’s now 3 nights without internet. Scoff at me but I dare you to live your life in the city for 3 days without internet… In many ways I love the detachment but sometimes… after 4 months of traveling further and further away from friends and a steady job… it’s nice to reconnect even for a stalkerish facebook moment.)

    To the East, I see the lush vibrant green mountains of Deshaies Guadeloupe; large formidable cumulonimbus clouds gather on the other side of the mountains. But I feel protected in this harbor. The mountains extend outward like a hug in the form of a U shape. Light waves lull the boat back and forth and I sit here on the bow with the last good beer we stashed away. A crazy Frenchman is blowing a conch shell emitting the deep blast of a horn-sound throughout the entire anchorage for an impressively long time. This moment, this relaxing moment, everything is good. The anchor is set soundly in the sand below, Mike is putting chicken on the grill, and my biggest concern is if some Frenchman decides to anchor right in front of our view for sunset tonight.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Hike to the Boiling Lake IV

    January 27, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Yes, it boils, yes, you should not fall into it and no, it’s not always full. Apparently this decade it’s higher than usual (in 1988 it stopped boiling and dropped by 29 feet). I find it interesting to say “usual” because the scientists don’t actually know how deep the lake is. There are steep walls packed by loose rock. The edge of the lake is a mixture of pumice and clay. It’s said to be about 200 degrees F. and it only gets hotter towards that grey blue middle, bubbling like a witches cauldron. We ate lunch here then said our farewells to the boiling lake. Our return hike was far clearer and provided us with beautiful surrounding vistas. We also passed other hikers on our return. We were the first to arrive and enjoyed the lake all to ourselves.Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Hike to the Boiling Lake II

    January 27, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We cautiously climbed over narrow muddy footholds that descended into the valley of desolation. This was super neat! As in, when I looked up to see the valley of desolation, I had truly NEVER seen anything like it in my life. I saw pictures online but it didn’t do it justice. The gaseous ground, did, reminded me of a scene in the cat/dog movie of Milo & Otis (kudos to anyone who remembers that childrens movie. I watched that movie on my Dads lap in 17 Rising Lane Long Island NY when I was a kid). The smell of sulfur was so strong you could taste it and when the wind changed and the steam rolled into your face you could feel and taste it. Joy… Mike and I wore our chaos sandals so our feet could feel the heat of the earth beneath us… which I found a little…. intimidating. The earth was cakey and almost sponge-like in some areas. In the stream some people have been known to cook a raw egg…. I didn’t see the appeal in that.
    The photo of all the steam is a fumarole, a crack, which gas escapes. Since the last major eruption was 800 AD… I’m not terribly concerned.

    Anyway. Another great sight was the fact we saw a black stream… a lot of them in fact. Created out of basalt. The other streams of green, grey, and white… I’m less sure of but hot dang! they sure are cool looking.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Hike to the Boiling Lake I

    January 27, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The following day Mike, Lisa, and I met our guide, Martin, at 6:30 AM ! Poor poor Mike, he doesn’t fair well in the mornings (but he did well that day….). Martin drove us an hour South near Rosseau. We started the hike on a well maintained path, though, still an arduous climb up. All four of us were breathing hard as we climbed right into the clouds.DSC_0543 Extreme drop offs were on either side of us and when there was a break in the trees and brush, jets of wind funneled over the cliffside. The force of which, nearly knocked your body back. I looked back several times unsure if Lisa would fly away. We suddenly found ourselves on the summit about 3,000 feet up but with zero view due to the clouds. I took a picture but it didn’t come out 😉 (sorry, that was Kirsten humor…) We then, began to decline over a ridge into what opened up to be the first of the two calderas! It was fantastically green and the rocks held so much iron. These calderas are thought to have been created 40,000 and 35,000 years ago.Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Calibishie for a Day

    January 26, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    I saw a fern that was bright yellow on the other side of the plant. We found out, if you place it flat against your skin, it'll make a really neat temporary natural tattoo.
    We met the owner of a chocolate factory.... factory, pictured below....
    Before we hailed the last bus we enjoyed a few beers.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Red Rocks III

    January 26, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    We continued to follow our new guide the red rocks ranger to a black sand beach.
    I had never experienced a black sand beach and found it to be something greater than a beautiful piece of land.... the sand had magnetism to it.... it's denser than the usual white sand we see so when it sinks in water, the water remains clear and you watch it sink immediately.
    Warning cliche moment coming up.... If ever you visit a black sand beach.... take your shoes off and feel the sand between your toes. It's unlike anything else.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Syndicate Rainforest II

    January 23, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Once we made it back from the waterfalls our walk continued, 30 minutes (according to Alan) down a very hilly road to the rainforest and parrot reserve… About an hour later we were still making our way down this road. Thank goodness we had the enjoyable company of Nills, Lisa, Megs, Tom and Melissa to keep us preoccupied from the temperately humid nonending march to nowhere. And just as the farmland began to disappear and more open and wild vegetation grew we spotted two vibrantly green parrots fly overhead. And that’s when good -ole- Alan appeared. We hopped in the van and he drove us the last 1/4 of a mile to the rainforest reserve center. He was kind enough to let us stroll around for another 15 minutes.
    We made it back just in time for Lisa and I to watch for our green flash we, so badly, yearn to see. No go this time… maybe next.    Read more

  • Kir McLinnGone Sailing for a YearKir McLinn

    Syndicate Rainforest I

    January 23, 2016 in Dominica ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our day doesn’t end here (good grief… I know… the blog entry continues). Alexis dropped us off around 11 but we still had the rest of the day. Sitting on a tour boat didn’t tucker us out so we asked Acedia, Alpha Crucis, and Aggressive (alliteration not intentional, on occasion we do befriend boats that start with other letters of the alphabet). The 7 of us rallied and we found a lime green van to take us into the mountains to explore the Syndicate Rainforest.Read more

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