• Kir McLinn
Sep 2015 – Jul 2016

Gone Sailing for a Year

A 295-day adventure by Kir Read more
  • Trip start
    September 21, 2015

    Day One Onset Harbor

    September 20, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Finally! finally finally finally! We’re off the dock, it’s been a long slog of boat project on top of project. Kirsten & I quit our jobs right before our wedding in early July and for much of the time since then it sure hasn’t felt like we’ve been unemployed. But all the hard work is finally behind us and we’ve shoved off the dock.

    Our first goal is to make it to Newport, RI in three days to catch a bus to Providence, RI to see a favorite band perform – Lord Huron.

    Leaving Boston this morning was bittersweet, but made easier by a wonderful send-off party a few days ago and a good friend Justin joining us for the first couple days. Our first day of weather and the immediate forecast is perfect, moderate north-easterlies & sunny warm skies. Today we covered about 45nm, from Boston to the Cape Cod Canal, then through the canal to Onset. All went well on our first day, we got into Onset shortly before sunset as planned and were greeted by a beautiful and auspicious first sunset.
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  • Newport

    September 25, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Two days ago we pulled into Newport Harbor after a comfortable but a little slow 40nm day from Onset to Newport. Our friend Justin got a good chunk of The Martian read on the bow
    beneath the spinnaker as we glided at 4-5kts westward into Rhode Island and
    past the enormous mansions. The wind for the passage was out of the north east but it was fairly light, peaking at around 14kts mid-morning but then diminishing to 8-12kts for most of the day before dying in the evening. Since we were going west the wind was coming from behind us and was too light for our normal sails to fill properly and propel the boat. These are spinnaker conditions!

    Gaia has an old asymmetrical spinnaker from a prior owner – I have no idea of it’s history, but it’s at least 10 years old. But it hasn’t been used much, and aside from some color bleeding & rust stains, it works pretty well. It has a sock which is a big fabric tube that slides down over top of the sail when it’s not in use, this lets us easily hoist the sail to the top of the mast before it fills with air. Once the sail is deployed, the sock gets bunched up at the top of the mast. When we’re ready to collapse the sail, we can pull the sock down to collapse the sail and make it easy to recover. I love flying the spinnaker – it means it’s a peaceful calm day and spinnaker runs are some of the most enjoyable sailing in my opinion. I haven’t used the spinnaker much on Gaia in all the years I’ve owned her, but now that we have a new feathering propeller, the boat is vastly more capable of making meaningful progress in light wind (more on this topic in a later post).

    Yesterday we spent the day in Newport Harbor, then took a RIPTA (Rhode Island’s bus system) bus to Providence (for $2 each way!) to see a favorite band, Lord Huron. It was an excellent show and we didn’t get back to the boat until around 2am.
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  • Block Island, Maze Wins Again

    September 27, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We sailed to Block Island from Newport. Not much to report aside from the usual unusual Mike & Kirsten-ism; my over-exaggeration of waves and Mikes sudden awareness that If Gaia is gaining on another vessel…. we can race them (and he goes from a wine and cheese cruising mentality of ‘we get there when we get there’ to barking commands ‘Trim the gennie! Edge up the traveler windward! We got em!’).
    There were 4 foot seas and rounding the Northern tip of Block Island was, as always, a welcoming view. There’s a shallow spit of land that curves out like an arm from the Block Island bluffs that are even more beautiful from the top. We anchored in the salt pond, which has a VERY narrow cut of water that funnels into the harbor. It was my third time letting out the anchor, which can be, as I learned, a delicate process of lowering at the right moment and letting the boat rest to get your bearings. Mike tied different colored string on the anchor rode every 10 feet so you can see how much rode you have sitting out. This is a GREAT idea and I highly recommend it to anyone anchoring…. But do note that over time the first 80 feet becomes coated in mud and the old neon colors before are brown. So when Mike asked me how much rode we had out half way through… I dunnno…( I guess I need to practice counting or something).

    BI Sat/ Sun
    ulia and Amy ventured out to the great BI of RI! Our friends still remember us! And they brought beer!!! Saturday morning meeting Julia & Amy was the first time Mike & I came ashore. I had forgotten how timeless and close everything was for walking distance. A 15 minute walk and we met them from the ferry ride over. Our first order of business was to get some serious boat napping & relaxing in, afterall, they did take the first ferry in to BI. We then had ourselves a classic BI beachday. Frisbee, beer, meandering, beach. The day ended in a wet dinghy adventure to cocktails at the infamous ‘Oar’ and somehow… about 4 hours later… we emerged for another dingy adventure across the great pond.
    Sunday we made it our mission to find the maze. The maze is for lack of words, really neat. It’s an intricately woven network of grassy paths that lead you to the BI bluffs, a few ponds, beaches, and always seems to end and begin in private property to some extent. P.S.I have never gone into the maze and not found myself lost at some point. The larger the group, the better the confusion. With a happy go lucky crew of Amy, Julia, Mike, and myself…. This was by far the closest we have ever come to not getting lost. We did, however, manage to miss their expected ferry back home… but nbd. We were all in BI.
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  • Lunar Event of the Century!

    September 27, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Or something to that effect…. and we only managed to snap these shots with our new hotshot camera. It was a super blood moon lunar eclipse and they only happen 5 times a century. So what else does one do but sit outside with a blanket & hot cocoa, listening to Dark Side of the Moon.Read more

  • Old Saybrook, Jumpy Fish

    September 29, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We were going to spend a few more days reveling in Block Island but there was a weeks worth of rain in the weeks forecast and with the only good wind to bring us into the Long Island Sound being on a Monday… we left early.
    En route we were pleasantly surprised to make friends with the local navy submarine (of Groton possibly?). And we timed the current perfectly for Race Point and got a 3 knot turbocharge! We flew into Old Saybrook and settled into a free mooring field and very well protected from the prevailing Northerly winds. I’ll let the pictures do the talking…
    The anchorage was a shallow protected marshland and during low tide all you could hear was the jumping of fish flopping out of the water. It sounded like rain from below. There goes the peace and silence.
    And then there were these (Ospreys) jerks! Amazing hunters but loved to try and perch themselves ontop of your newly installed windex. …you guessed it… one of these guys broke our windex.
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  • Running Aground in Mamaroneck

    October 3, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    A cold front kept us cooped up for a few days in CT. Turns out we prefer sailing in nicer conditions as opposed to rainy ones. But behind the low Joaquinpressure system of rain was this little cat 4 storm, Joaquin, gaining strength and hitting the Bahamas and moving forward/ northerly, easterly, westerly….. really to anyones guess. This had us looking at safe havens to park the boat… just in case it came flying our way. Our good family friend John Stoffel and wife Bo told us to stop shuffling our feet and get on over to Mamaroneck Harbor Orienta Yacht Club stat. So we did.

    We were able to fill up on water, food, and propane. Propane can be a pesky trip so we were really grateful. Mike was fighting a cold and I was limping after running 6 miles and re-injuring the ball of my foot. I *think* I’ve finally learned I’m not meant to run long distances. So sickly Mike & wobbly Kirsten found a Starbucks to burrow into for the day and used all the free wifi and all the electricity to recharge all the devices. Again, we were grateful.

    You know the phrase ‘there are two kinds of sailors. Those who have gone aground and those who will.’ …. I had always disliked this phrase. Because I was above this phrase… I had never been aground and I had no intention of doing so; to infer otherwise was nonsense to me. After admitting this to the reader, I’d like to tell you a change in regard to the above statement. I have been aground and now welcome all those who have not yet been aground to jump over the line and join the party. BUT in my defense, I was following captain mikes direction despite my own recollection of the terrain being too shallow for Gaia to wander into. There was little concern because we made a soft sand landing on a rising tide. We were able to reverse out of the situation. (Thank you NEW propeller for the extra boost). So just behind the red nun where there’s a faint circular whirl of water….. yeah, that’s where we hit Mamaroneck but at least we filled up on all provisions & had excellent company!
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  • Tour of the East River and Hudson

    October 8, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Timing the currents for the East River & Hudson River are important. Particularly when you’re looking at a 3 knot current that could either be turbo-boosting you down the river or knocking you back up… I was thrilled to be back in the greatest city; there really is an electricity in the air. The cultures, the food, and most of all the people. We anchored overnight by the Throgs Neck Bridge.
    The next morning we motored down the East River then up the Hudson. We caught the slack before the ebb tide (about an hr past slack) which gave us that amazing 3 knot powerboost on the East River.
    First bridge was the Throgs Neck designed by Othmar Amman in 1961 & built to relieve traffic congestion.
    The second bridge we went under was the Bronx WhiteStone Bridge constructed in 1939 also by Othmar Amman.
    The 3rd main bridge we approached is the Triborough Bridge (Robert F Kennedy)opened in 1936 and funded by the New Deal. It began construction on Black Friday 1929 and was redesigned by…. you guessed it Othmar Amman; his new design saved millions $$ and allowed for the project to continue onward.
    Fourth bridge is the Queensboro Bridge: And I thought the Roosevelt Tram was pretty neat-o
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  • NY to Cape May, NJ

    October 16, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The wind and the swells were at opposing odds making for a rocky night on Gaia. Our first overnighter and you guessed it.... I booted the second that sun jumped below the horizon. I somehow mustered the strength and still did my watches but I begrudgingly stood up to check all was clear and steady our course to NJ. I took a selfie at first light and thankfully I was already on the mend at this point.

    Cape May NJ is wonderful! Loved the visit particularly this great fish and tackle store... I sure hope we stop here on our way back!
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  • Crossing the Delaware to Ocean City, MD

    October 18, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Yesterday we got up real early and left Cape May, NJ bound for Maryland – thats right, Delaware doesn’t even get a stop… poor tiny little Delaware.

    Cape May has a beautiful wide deep inlet, but as soon as we reached the end of the jetty there were steep standing waves. The wind wasn’t that strong, but it was blowing out of the west-northwest and what we didn’t realize was a strong current flowing into the Delaware bay around Cape May, this meant wind opposing the current resulting what feels like being in a washing machine. As the day wore on we both got less green and by the time we were skipping over the Delaware coast it had gotten positively nice out. 40 some odd miles later we approached the Ocean City inlet which we timed perfectly wrong to find ourselves trying to motor into a rapidly outflowing current. Ocean City has some pretty sweet carnival rides & rollercoasters that are sadly closed for the season, but thankfully the corn dog stand was open!Read more

  • Assateague Island

    October 19, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Today we got up early and took the dinghy to the north end of Assateague Island, which is a national seashore known for it’s herd of “wild” horses. After hunting around for an hour or two we spotted a small group of 4 of them.
    Interesting story about these wild horses (actually the ones a bit south on the Virginia side of the island). It turns out the herd is managed / “owned” by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company… and the herd is capped at 150 individuals. Every year the fire department “swims” the herd across to neighboring Chincoteague island where they sell off most of the years new foals to keep the population down and prevent the firemen from having to fund the new fire truck entirely via bake sale.
    Tomorrow we’re leaving here early for a long passage to Norfolk, VA – the wind looks great with 15-20 out of the NW for the duration of the passage, but COOLLD. So it’ll be time for ALL the layers.
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  • Overnight Sail to Norfolk, VA

    October 20, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I think sailors largely suffer from acute selective memory loss (must be all the rum).

    Sailing is glamorous. It’s you and the elements. The endless seas to new horizons. That’s what we remember…. at least that’s what I remember, the other stuff are just details to a story.

    In planning a sail, you weigh variables & tradeoffs like Distance, Comfort, Time, Weather, Risk; and always remember strong winds can kick up high seas over time and space. The first overnight passage on this trip was 110 nautical miles Conney Island NY to Cape May, NJ. We had good wind from the West (from the coastline), which meant a limited amount of space for waves to kick up. We assumed it would be a smooth sail. So WHY the heck were there large swells coming from the South! Once the sun went down and the horizon disappeared, I was down for the count & not in a good way.

    People react very differently to seasickness (aka the imbalance of the inner ear). Seasickness is disorientation between your visual perception and perceived balance. Women and children tend to be more prone. The usual aids for prevention are bonine, ginger root, bitters…. (no joke, I mean bitters, the stuff you put in your Old Fashions), and prescriptions like stugeron or cinnarizine.

    I’ve seen people hugging the railing unable to move, I’ve seen others who just stand swaying back and forth. In the past, I’ve only gotten dizzy, taken a nap, and woke up to function just fine. This time, I tried taking a nap giving Mike the first 4 hour shift. I woke up feeling completely unbalanced in the stomach and in the head. Mike told me he was fine. It was a partly clear night with good light wind. We were just bouncing around everywhere. Swells from the south and waves from the West made for an uneasy ride. Around 1 AM I tried sitting on deck for my watch and finally submitted to seasickness. It’s the most awful feeling. I struggled; fighting exhaustion, nausea, and a very unbalanced inner ear for the next 3.5 hours. Around 4:30 AM I told Mike to go down below and take a nap. It was still pitch black but the seas were calming. As the sun illuminated the sky so too did my sense of health and happiness.

    The Overnight Passage:

    Our second overnight passage had far less nausea…. but wow we pulled our New Englanders card and muscled through the coldest night on our trip. You’re probably thinking, ‘but Kirsten why would you pick the coldest night to stand outside in the wind, cold, and dark for 12 hours….’ Well, we wanted to spend one day exploring Assateague Island where the wild horses roamed. Secondly, we had this cold snap due to wind/weather coming from the Northwest – a great direction, but it brought the cold! The wind was stronger than anticipated, unfortunately for us. Instead of leaving at high tide from Assateague Island, sailing 120 nautical miles, and arriving at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay around sunrise; we were going too fast and hit one of the busiest ports around 4:30 AM. In all our tips and advice, everyone always said, keep clear of the shipping channels, they’re busy (dangerous). Great job planning this one Mike & Kirsten (sarcasm)!

    But in all that bitter cold, we saw a pod of dolphins various times, a whale breach, and a little bird take refuge on our boat for an hour or so. We also had amazing gumbo stew to keep us fed and provided an amazing boost to morale.
    We made it into Norfolk under the cloak of darkness when I took over. As we shifted to a more westward direction, 4-6 foot steep waves rocked the haul swaying the boat by 45 degrees in either direction. It took me an hour to come to terms with my fear and discomfort. It was pitch black & little red dots surrounded the harbor (some being channel markers, telling you to avoid dangerous waters!), the wind was shifty and howling 25-30 knots, and series of steep 5 foot waves would violently knock the boat back and forth. On top of that, 200-300 foot tankers/containerships moving 10-13 knots could appear and pass you within a 4 minute period. We were on 3 hour watches and those 3 hours were the worst. The first rays of dawn had never been so welcomed, once again. We’re going to work on planning our estimated time of arrival better…. but in the meantime, I’m going to enjoy Norfolk, VA! I think we’ve earned it.
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  • Norfolk, VA

    October 20, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After our second overnight passage we pulled into Willoughby Bay just inside the mouth of Norfolk Harbor as dawn was breaking. We were exhausted so we passed out and slept for the morning and cleaned the boat / relaxed that evening.
    I made apple pie and ran out of crust so made a sailboat on top.
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  • Do The Dismal - ICW

    October 23, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) has several segments (one that even leads out to Texas) but the segment I’m referring to is Norfolk, VA at mile marker 00. to Key West, FL . The ICW uses natural inland rivers, marshes, and manmade dredged canals to allow commercial and social maritime safe/alternative passage from the Atlantic Ocean Cape Hatteras Shipwrecks.

    It’s amazing but it’s not sailing. I wasn’t looking forward to the ICW motoring until I saw a friend of mine post a picture of her experience. It was a picture of flat glassy water reflecting lush beautiful trees on either side of her boat. It was gorgeous. Firstly, it technically wasn’t a picture of the ICW, it was another passage that reconnected with the ICW. Secondly, it was called the Dismal Swamp but frankly I don’t give two nuts what it’s called. It looked amazing from the photos.
    So the Dismal Swamp dates back to as early as George Washington. Yes the first U.S. President, George Washington. He had a company that helped build the canal. It’s 6 feet deep and less so in some areas (reminder, Gaia’s draft is 5.2 feet). And the water is tea colored due to to the tannic acid created by decaying vegetation.

    Now that you have some neat-o facts to recite to friends, let me tell you of our experience. It was pretty entertaining actually. There are two locks which allow you entry and exit which opens 3 times a day. On Friday, we were gunning to make the 1:30 locks opening. To do that we had to go under three bridges, one of which, was a railroad bridge that opened at noon. It took longer than anticipated to get the anchor out of this nasty “cakey” mud and it also took longer than anticipated to fill up the fuel and water tanks at the nearby marina. Somehow, in all our luck, we were still early for the locks. In fact, there was a traffic jam. The 11:00 opening had a 17 boat rally traveling together down the ICW. Since only 10-12 boats can go through the locks at a time, several boats were anchored out in front of the locks in a single file line waiting their turn. We motored down to get a better look but a few of the anchored boats loudly and anxiously announced they were there first. As a sailor, I didn’t care, but the accountant in me appreciated their order. So the locks master eventually got on the radio and began corralling boats into the locks one by one at 2:30. The locks master ushered 4 boats in on either side of the wall and any late-comer boats got stuck in the middle and rafted up to the side boats. Once we were secured in the locks and the water levels slowly rose, people began starting conversations back and forth.

    ::Scene:: What’s your boat? Who are you? Where are you from? Where are you going? ::End Scene:: But we did have two boats comment on how young Mike & I looked. We turned around and saw another young couple looking at us anxiously. She yelled over ‘There’s not many of us around are there?”. Being a bit daft I had no idea what she meant by “us”. Wall to wall boats, we were both white couples on boats…. we looked the same as everyone else…… ahhh, except for that 20-40 year age gap I didn’t notice…. After the locks the rally continued onward down the canal but us youngsters tied up at the free dock after the locks and bridge. And that free dock was amazing. There was a grocery store across the street so we could fill up on food. There was also an autoparts store that had our engine oil and filled our propane tanks! Thank you universe for being so good to us! We started on our journey at 7 am and we were first on the water! On the down side we had to be extra vigilant for stumps and deadheads since we were first on the water. No, that’s not a Jerry Garcia / Grateful Dead reference. Stumps are partially submerged logs drifting through the water and deadheads are dislodged logs that have been pinned to the bottom sticking upward. Hitting a stump or deadhead is a really great way to lose a prop! Throughout the entire traverse, we only heard one loud thud that shook the mast. We also bumped one smaller log but it wasn’t terrible. When we passed the rally boats rafted up at the Welcome Center, we also passed a beautiful navy blue sailboat called Valiant, absolutely pristine. The captain wore a hat, sun glasses , a scowl, and ….. driving gloves on at the helm. He did not smile, he did not wave, but he gave me a chuckle that I won’t soon forget.
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  • Roanoke Island

    October 26, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    As exciting and beautiful a new port can be, sometimes the biggest scores are the little things. But first, let’s back up a little. On the dismal swamp we had access to a grocery store (across the street) whilst tied up to land. We made away like bandits since we went grocery shopping hungry…. A big no no for obvious reasons but it feels so good. We had mighty dreams of stews and extravagant pasta dishes, chicken salads, Mike even had an itch to make cornbeef stew…. We bought just under $200 worth of food. It felt like we bought everything…..everything except for cabbage for the cornbeef stew.

    The next few days we searched; no cabbage in sight. We motored over the shallow sound to Roanoke Island and found a 24 hour free dock with some outstandingly fun veteran cruisers filled with all sorts of great tips.

    Not only did we refill the tanks we walked to the nearest grocery store called Piggly Wiggly, would they come through…… ??? I know what you’re thinking, ‘with a name like Piggly Wiggly how could they not come through and provide the cabbage!?!

    Yes! Of course Piggly Wiggly had the cabbage (did you not read the title of this post?), they also had the bacon, and ham bone…! After our 2 nights, we were kicked off the 24 hour free dock despite us being the only boat. Whatever we had our cabbage.

    I’m not sure if you’re familiar with the early history of the United States. If not, listen up because Roanoke should be apart of your Alex Trebek Jeopardy arsenal of answers (or questions since they only accept answers in the form of a question – I hope I haven’t lost you yet).

    Firstly, let’s get the time period right.
    -Christopher Columbus “discovered” America in 1492…. I say discovered because we all know our favorite Norseman Leif Erikson (son of Erik the Red) discovered America way before him…. But really I’m not a fan of any culture that could discover a land already inhabited by other cultures but that’s my own pet peeve. Anyway.
    -Around 1560’s Elizabeth I gives her blessing to Sir Walter Raleigh to colonize the new world.
    -1585 Roanoke Island becomes an English settlement
    -1607 Jamestown, VA built and established by John Smith.
    -1620 Plymouth Rock becomes a refuge for the religious-persecuted pilgrims and their belief they should separate from the Church of England.


    It’s believed Roanoke Island is where the first colony was created by a group of 100 or so English. One of the resupply ships never arrived and the next resupply ship reported the settlement….. gone. Had they moved elsewhere, had a local Indian tribe slaughtered the newcomers, did the Spanish remove them? Roanoke Island, also named the ‘Lost Colony’, has few answers to these questions. However, a Jamestown expedition lead by John Smith was reported to search for the lost colony and came back claiming that the Powhatan tribe had massacred the colony for siding with an enemy tribe. Is that the full and honest truth?

    The colonists were never found but a recreation of what did stand over 400 years ago is available for the public in the Lost Colony park area. It’s not much, just a series of grassy hills in a square formation; used for food, water, or protection, we’re (*I’M*) not sure. What we are sure of is how the colony started. Sir Walter Raleigh received funding and 100 English men and women arrived in a foreign land not necessarily famers or engineers and not equipped for the struggles of creating a new settlement.
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