Bikepacking Italy

December 2023
Let's move south! I will get up on my bicycle again and travel from Manziana (near Rome) to Sicily. The idea is to travel until Villa San Giovanni, take the ferry to Messina, continue on Sicily until Palermo and take the ferry back to Civitavecchia. Read more
  • 7footprints
  • 1countries
  • 7days
  • 32photos
  • 6videos
  • 473kilometers
  • 249kilometers
  • 224kilometers
  • Day 1

    Day 1: Manziana to Latina

    December 12, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    My ride started pretty late, around noon. I was hoping that the weather would clear up a bit, since it was very foggy from the yesterday downpour.

    After the first 10-15 minutes of slight uncomfortableness I could feel the muscle memory kick in. Pedaling suddenly felt very easy and I was riding pretty fast along the roads, which where surprisingly full of traffic for this hour.

    The first hour passed by so quickly, I almost didn’t realize it. The surfaces where really good, asphalt roads in solid condition…the downside of this is the car traffic. Today though, the people were very respectful with me and I didn’t had the near accident experiences i had in Switzerland or the first time i rode into Italy.

    I was amazed by all the beautiful autumn colors that are now very visible in Italy. Together with the fog they created a very charming, almost mystical atmosphere. It was not cold at all, around 14 degrees, so i was able to enjoy the ride more than I imagined when i started.

    After only two hours into the day i had a flat tire…well, that’s what I thought at first, but in fact both tires were flat. Not prepared for this I had to bring my bike to a repair shop. Thankfully I was in Rome and had no issues to find one there.

    It would’ve taken a while to get the bike ready for the road again and dusk was approaching fast, so I made the decision to leave it here for today. Tomorrow is a new day and I will continue well rested and with a clear mind.
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  • Day 2–3

    A Break Before It Really Started

    December 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Yesterday I had to take a break. First of all because i was waiting for my bike to be ready for the road again.

    But also because i felt kind of flu’ish and really appreciated the day off.

    Too bad, but these things happen in real life. I will start tomorrow and thats it 😊Read more

  • Day 3–4

    Day 3: Getting Back On The Road

    December 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Since i was already far behind my plan i had to collect my bike from the repair shop in Rome as early as possible, 9:30 am, and then skip a bit of distance by train to make up for the effectively 2 days lost. From Roma Termini to Salerno in 3 hours seemed the best option to me, especially because Salerno was en route.

    Around 2pm I arrived in Salerno where I had a delicious lunch at „Zero - Healthy Bar & Poke“. Definitely recommend that place, if you ever find yourself in Salerno and like healthy food options -> give it a try! Then i finally continued my trip, heading towards Capaccio. It was raining slightly but nothing awful and the radar prognosed that it would stop raining soon.

    While riding along the coastline it stopped raining indeed. Shortly after i found myself admiring the stunning views of the sunset along the coastline. Absolutely marvelous. Because of the cloudy weather the sun, peaking through the enormous wall of clouds really created a magical view.

    Very little did i know what awaited me. Around 15-20 minutes and a couple of kilometers ahead i ended up in something that can only be described as a monsoon. It was raining like I’ve never seen it before and within a few minutes the streets where absolutely flooded. The cars that where passing by created a wave of water that completely soaked me and my bike, every single time. I mean, it didn’t even matter anymore since i was already soaking wet from head to toes, but anyway, some decency maybe?

    This continued pretty much all the 40 kilometers until destination for the night. There were some moments without rain but since i was completely wet it didn’t make much of a difference. The sun was long set and slowly but steady i started to get cold.

    A handful of kilometers before Capaccio, i realized that i had to push through once more. A 400 meter climb stretched across round about 6 kilometers, thats an average of 6.6 % incline…pretty though for the end of a day when you are soaked, cold and tired. But the thought of a warm shower kept me going and so in around 40 minutes i made it to the top and was welcomed by my host of the night. Now i will have a shower and spoil myself with a delicious dinner in a warm and cozy restaurant.
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  • Day 4–5

    Day 4: Riding Into Nature

    December 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Today started the real deal. I had 80 kilometers with almost 2000 meters of climb planned. The majority of the route would take me straight through the “Parco Nazionale del Cilento”.

    I had absolutely no idea. No idea about the incredible beauty of this Unesco World Heritage of a park. And also no idea how extremely exhausting this would be.

    Literally everything happened today. Stunning views. Beautiful weather. Really strong windgust that almost made my bike fly away, guarding dogs that wouldnt let me pass the route, so i had to reroute and do about 10 kilometers extra (thanks to you doggo 🥲), rain, passages of deep mud where i had to carry my bike.

    Soon enough i realized that i won’t be able to stick to my plan. I was too exhausted. So i checked the map, rearranged my plans and headed towards “Vallo della Lucania”. The decent into this town was magnificent and i enjoyed it to the fullest, especially after so much climbing.

    After 60 kilometers and about 1400 meters of climb i am DONE for today and i will take my well deserved rest.
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  • Day 5–6

    Day 5: PURE Joy

    December 16, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Today was my second and last day crossing the “Parco Nazionale del Cilento”, a breathtaking Unesco world heritage.

    I have no word’s to describe the intense joy and happiness I experienced today. Basically i was smiling all day, like a little kid. The landscapes and views were so unbelievably beautiful that i had to stop everywhere to take shots with my drone.

    Here is just a little selection of the most stunning pictures i took. You have to see it to believe it.

    Absolutely breathtaking and the multiple descents that i had today made more than up for the 3000 kilometers of height i climbed over the last two days.

    Perfectly timed with the sunset i arrived in beautiful Villammare, about 30-40 kilometers of the calabrian border, where I will spend the night.
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  • Day 6

    Day 6: Health First!

    December 17, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I woke up with a slight headache, blocked nostrils and coughing. So the flu’ish feeling when i started the trip didn’t vanish but kicked back on me.

    This is very inconvenient but it is what it is. I went to the pharmacy to get some medicine for my condition and continued my trip along the beautiful coastline into the region of Basilicata.

    Absolutely stunning and i met a lot of italian road cyclists (🇮🇹 🚴)along the path. Unfortunately after around 10 kilometers my body clearly sent me signals to rest. Ao i checked for my next options to stay for tonight and decided to take a train to Maratea, which was the next bigger town ahead.

    Health has to be first. Always. So i will use these day(s) to recover.
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  • Day 7–8

    An early end to an epic ride

    December 18, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Unfortunately my condition worsened over the last two days, so i had to make the decision to stop this journey and take a train back to Rome. I booked it for tomorrow (19.12.) morning.

    At least i got to see a lot of beautiful landscapes and had a ton of fun. I will definitely come back for Sicily whenever i have the time and health condition to do so.Read more