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  • Día 26

    Small Hamlets, a Lighthouse and a Story

    2 de septiembre de 2022, Canadá ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today I am going to explore some small hamlets around here. My hosts told me about several of them and this is going to be beautiful scenery. The day is overcast again so the pictures aren’t the best. I think that the sky adds some moodiness to the shots though.

    First up is Dingwall (where I’m staying). It has a lighthouse and a story. So this lighthouse used to be on the island off the coast called St. Paul’s Island. This island is 22 miles off the coast. It was a magnet for ships due to the unexpected spot for land so far from the mainland. It is also in an area where the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Atlantic ocean meet causing turbulent currents and heavy fog due to the temperature difference of the waters. The coastal area was littered with wrecks. The first lighthouse was built in 1846 and a steam fog whistle in 1872 due to the dense fog. In 1914 a fire destroyed the old wooden lighthouse. The new lighthouse was constructed in 1915 and is made from cast iron. It is cylindrical in shape and is 8 meters (27 feet) tall and has a base of reinforced concrete. This served the area until 1964 when an automated fiberglass tower was installed. The lighthouse was moved to Dartmouth N.S. in the mid 1980’s. The residents were not happy and a group of them petitioned the coast guard to return it. This went on for many years until the lighthouse was re-erected in Dingwall where it now sits. There is a museum there as well with many interesting stories and exhibits.

    Next stop is Meat Cove formerly known as blood cove. Yep, that’s right. Apparently back in the day (late 1800’s – early 1900’s) the Acadian people who lived around here would herd the caribou (which were plentiful at that time) down to this cove where they could slaughter them and then butcher them for meat for the winter. If you look at the photo with the car in it and the beach behind you can see from the topography that it is a great place to herd the animals to. There are rock cliffs all around the cove and the sea at the back. Now of course it is a great place to hike. There are a few houses there and a campground that was pretty full.

    I have to mention the roads here. We think Ontario roads are bad (and they are: Burlington Street or Kenilworth Street) however; Cape Breton roads are worse. They are semi paved (cracked with pot holes) but then they turn to dirt roads (muddy with lots of pot holes) then back to semi paved! The roads on the Cabot Trail are pretty good but once you are off the beaten path look out. I drive a 2011 Escape and have been very thankful for the all wheel drive and clearance that I have. Low to the ground cars beware!

    After this I head down (or up?) the coast to a place called White Point. This place is also a little hamlet that has beautiful views of the coast line, a little harbour and walking trails. The smell of the pines combined with the ocean is intoxicating. Even with the less then perfect weather I’m loving every minute. I take a walk up the trail to see what I can find but no whales or seals. There are a couple of fishing boats in the harbour but that is about it. I did spot a heron there looking for dinner.

    Speaking of dinner, I’m hungry! I take myself down to a place called Morrison’s in Cape North for some dinner. I had a lobster roll with fries. I even had some pie and ice cream for desert. Yummy!
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