The Way of Stone and Water

A 2 km warmup walk from our hotel back to the trail sets us off onto my most anticipated segment yet of this journey.

The Ruta de Pedra et de Agua is a magical forest walk along the Armenteira River. A happily bubbling brook to the right accompanies us along the trail which features many remnants of old water mills. All the way there is evidence of the ways water has historically been diverted towards the grinding stones. It's impressive, this ancient use of controlled energy. It's fantastically peaceful here, and we slow accordingly.

I'm reminded of a myth I read about the nearby Armenteira Monastery. The story goes that the Abbot Ero has become mired in doubts surrounding the afterlife. To contemplate this problem, he goes walking in the forest beside the monastery. He wanders, he ponders, until a birdsong wakes him from his contemplations. He returns to the monastery only to find that 200 years have passed.

This seems that sort of magical forest, it feels like a place outside of time. The constant murmer of water over rock is so soothing, it lulls you into almost a dreamlike state.

I wonder, I used to admire the rock, for it's solid implacability. Now I think I rather more admire the water, which always finds a way, and lends its energy to further others goals along the way. All the while steadily, slowly, wearing down the stubborn rock.

So easy to lapse into contemplation in this tranquil environment. But the Camino remains the Camino, we are not alone here and we come by other pilgrims. We've met Bijan and Sheila, Iranian and South African friends walking together. Sheila lives in Malta, and her eyes light up when we say not only do we know it, we got married there! Bijan is a retired neurosurgeon...we've met so many doctors on this path! He's wearing a cap with Switzerland on it, and it turns out he was hiking in the Lucerne area last year.

We hopscotch along the rest of the trail with them, meeting up again as they leave the riverside lunch spot we're entering.

The trail has changed after lunch, and we now are walking along grapevines bursting with the promise of a heavy harvest. Tiny green tendrils reach out to us as we pass, and I think even their delicate grip might be enough to reel me in. This part of Spain is spectacular.

However, as the day wears on and the sun beats relentlessly down it becomes a grind. A completely unnecessary mountain is situated between us and our goal, Vilanova d'Arousa. It's over 28 degrees and late in the afternoon before this couple of sweat soaked stumbling walkers gratefully find our nights beds.

As always, shower and change and drop the packs, and we are refreshed enough to venture out. We need to book a boat ride for tomorrow, up the inlet to Pontecesures. Accomplishing this with minimal fuss, we're off to wander when who do we see but Bea. So a beer together turns into dinner, where we are joined by the passing Bijan and Sheila!

So a lively table spontaneously arises yet again. I can't describe the joy of this easy camaraderie that marks the Camino. People share. Their stories, their lives, themselves. It's become a most prized part of this experience for me.Read more