Camino Portugese

So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!Read more