Polignano and Putignano

And we're back, let's try this boat trip again! Today there's time to visit the unbelievable Basilica of the Madonna Della Maria, home of the icon that miraculously drifted in on a raft in 1117. Work had begun ten years before, and was paused due to a lack of roof beams. The raft was used to continue the roof, and the icon remains here to this day.

A short tunnel from the Bishop's Palace leads to the stunning view of an imposing Baroque cathedral dominating a tiny square. From that modest beginning what we see today is an absolute glory of inlaid marble, gilt, soaring transepts, and a glorious staircase that leads to the elevated chapel of the Madonna.

Amazingly its permitted to climb the stairs and of course we do. This is to me a very unusual layout. I think it's to highlight the importance of the icon, and it's extravagant setting while remaining so accessible is truly unique.

But time ticks on, so we move along to the harbour where our captain graciously hands us back aboard, along with our Norwegian companions from yesterday. The water is still choppy, but our little craft determinedly forges north, towards the caves of Polignano.

This extraordinary configuration of caves carved out by the sea is spectacular. From the water, the depth and size of these enormous caves can really be appreciated. The dark interiors, overhung by stone and highlighted in front by stunning turquoise waters are breath taking sight. There are many named caves among the coast and the most famous is the Palazzese Grotto, with a world famous restaurant.

Its astounding to see an entire city seemingly so precariously perched over these caverns. Smaller boats can cruise right into them, and even through tunnels.

Birds nest in smaller nooks, popping out suddenly then gliding in great swoops over and around the boats. An impressibly balanced paddle boarder skilfully flows along smoothly managing the waves underneath Polignano.

An amazing day to be out on the water. There is a pause and olives, tarelli and spumante are handed out by our taciturn cigarette smoking captain. I think he's friendly enough, just a language barrier. He has enough English to point to the palazzo restaurant and say "very expensive, one breakfast 80 euro"

The tides and waves are helpfully pushing us back to Monopoli, and on no time we are back to our little gray Peugeot and rolling along country roads.

Putignano is a quieter town and an unknown to us. There's always something to discover when you don't know anything about a place! Something I love about Europe is small villages and towns can have centuries of traditions, and a history that forms an identity. People have a real pride in their town of origin.

Now despite the fact we have a very fascinating insight into Putignano millennium and more of history, we first are entertained by a modern wine dispenser😊. It's just so cheap, we will have to try just to see ( update, it's not good, I used some to cook wirh later that night 😅)

I'm less entertained by a claustrophobia inducing security entry to the local bank 😅

Just in time the museum that forms one side of the Piazza del Plebiscito opens. We enjoy a virtually private tour of the former residence of local historic family Romanazzi Carducci. Our lovely young guide is a local and in charmingly accented English she tells us of the minor royalties that lived here.

This residence also houses the museum of the carnavale. Turns out this is the oldest traditional annual events in Italy, with its origin traced back to 1394. Some relics were being moved from nearby Monopoli to the town, and a parade formed to escort them. Rural peasants of the time would wear masks and accompanied with homemade instruments, would make fun of prominent local characters. The parade merged with this carnival occurrence and the Propaggini carnival began. Every year, it begins on December 26, and a series of ritual celebrations takes place on Thursdays and Sundays.

The end of the event is on Ash Tuesday, and a grand parade of gigantic floats occurs. Since World War Two, when many supplies were required for war efforts, papier mache had been used to create fantastical and massive, up to 30 foot high, creations..

Its been a fascinating insight into a local tradition, and our only regret is not being here to witness this incredible scene! Although the announcement of the end of the long festival lead up is 366 peals of the church bell!Read more