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Puglia via Paris
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Puglia via Paris

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    Idag
    TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Ruins of Circus Maximus
    Saint Sabin BasilicaDoors whose carving began about AD 430The green door with the keyhole*not mine*but this is exactly what you seeHow do you not think of Roman Holiday here! Love this old posterMaritozzaro, famed Roman specialty.Buildings with such colorful, graceful styleIn Villa Borghese parkView over the oty from the parkVia del Coronari, gelateria streetGelateria del TeatroFour Rivers fountain

    Arrivaderci, Roma

    13 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Chilling out right now in the shade, on stone benches circled around a pleasantly trickling fountain in the gardens of Villa Borghese.

    We need to pace this day. The heat is relentless, about 36 or 38. Too hot to walk right now.

    I've got an itinerary worked out with my handy AI travel agent. Never used that before this trip, and it's really helpful. I plugged in the sites I wanted to visit, stressed I wanted to avoid the heat, and asked for a reasonable agenda. I could have worked it out, but honestly not that fast. I keep thinking about the movie Idiocracy though: I can work it out, but am choosing not to. What if people no longer know how?

    Anyway. We started our day looking for the Aventine Keyhole - on top of the Aventine hill, just past the ancient walled orange garden Giardino Arencia. Beside the garden is the hauntingly empty basilica Santa Sabina, with its 4th century carved wooden doors. And then next : a Knight's of Malta priory with an intriguing secret. If you peek though the keyhole of the door to the garden, you will be rewarded with the enchanting view of a perfectly framed St. Peter's Dome. Nearly impossible to capture with a phone camera, it's a view that just needs to be seen in person for best effect.

    Nearby is a Benedictine abbey, where we stop for a rest and cool drink before making our way to Trastavere where a little shop called Il Maritozzaro makes these gorgeous Roman specialty huge cream filled buns. It's already sweltering hot out, so we choose to stand inside at the counter to enjoy every bite while watching the counter attendant slather fresh whipped cream into trays of new Maritozzaro.

    Figuring out public transit in Rome is challenging. Its subway system appears far less extensive than we would have expected. A complexity of bus, metro, walking and trains is a factor in every itinerary. To minimize travel time and maximize rest, we head then to the Villa Borghese park. After the shady rest described above, we find enough energy to rent a little bike cart and tour more of this extensive city park.

    The gelato that has been well earned is next on the agenda. We're off to the Gelateria del Teatro. Here is one of the most enjoyable pastimes, the selection of the perfect flavour. The choices here complicate the decision, they're just too good! Rosemary honey lemon is a clear winner. But needs a companion. White chocolate basil, ginger cream, raspberry sage, dark chocolate with nero d'avola....how to decide? For me, the lavender white peach ultimately wins second flavour.

    The gelateria is located on a pretty little street, full of leather shops, art galleries, and of course, restaurants!

    An amble through nearby Piazza Navona leads us to a bus back to the hotel that generously allowed us an day luggage storage. And then, step by step, the arduous journey homeward begins.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Hilltop village, reminds me of spain
    Roadwork makes for some very narrow passagesEven a minor stopping point had some viewsMight not show here, but the temp is 40. As we fight trafficPiazza Vittorio Emanuele II, roman fountain remains from 3rd century ADPiazza Vittorio Emanuele IIGelateria Fassi is nearby. But I'm holding out for Del Teatro!

    Cross Country

    12 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    And so we close the door on our little seaside casa for the last time. Now that we finally know how to navigate the labyrinth of feminine named streets that make up this village at Rosa Marina, here we are working our way out for the last time.

    The now familiar E55 highway, with its perplexing speed limits melts away beneath us at this early hour. The rolling hills turn to low mountains as we move northwest, through the centre of Italy.

    Fields like patchwork quilts but up onto hillsides and into valleys, look more like a rumpled bed someones just gotten out of. Tiny white villages crowd around the crests of each hilltop.

    Its a long drive, but at least a scenic one. A quick leg stretch in a nondescript town partway through offers up the best doughnut I think I've ever had. Pillow soft, sanded with rough sweet sugar...delectable.

    Our idyllic countryside drive comes to an abrupt end as we approach Rome's outer ring! Typical Italian road chaos increases exponentially. As another tourist we've met remarked, it takes 2 to drive here. A navigator is an absolute must!

    We find our hotel with a minimum of issues...but accessing it is a whole other problem! The loading zone cheerfully assured by our host is occupied by a white van. The driver is absorbed in a lengthy phone call, and an oncoming city bus in our lane honks belligerently to let us know we're obstructing his way. Nothing to do, but circle around and try again. But in Rome, that's almost a 1.5 km circle! Ultimately, we squeeze in and double park.

    And then rush our cases upstairs, so we can manœuvre back to return the rental car! At least that is straightforward.

    Our evening is a short stroll, a quick meal, and an early night. We definitely notice prices are higher in Rome. And it's grittier. Far, far more graffiti. More garbage in the streets. And at our restaurant, for the first time in Italy, I order house wine that is absolutely un drinkable. Have not come across that since the wine vending machine adventure 😅

    And to my great regret, the hotel....had no hot water for my shower! The host said just let it run for 20 minutes or so, it will warm up. Alas, it never did. We had hot water issues at the house the last couple days, so I had really been anticipating a shower that wasn't cold 😅    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    1Martina Franca market day
    I will miss the freshness and flavour of the produce....and the prices!Bégonias in the park, Martina FrancaGorgeous cross, just on a wall.Street poetry, my kind of graffitiCathedral piazza at Basilica di San Martino, M. FrancaBrad found some things at the market he wantedWe watched this operation for some timeThis curved arcade opens out from the basilica square.These tall purple trees - must research!Ostuni beach on the eveningFireball in the sky tonightThese odd little hairballs are a type of seaweed

    The winding down begins

    11 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    All these many days we started out with are dwindling away fast now. Beginning a trip this long felt like holding a wallet stuffed full of big bills....and now we're counting the change.

    With our bank balance of time running low, its tempting to think what's one more sight I can fit in? But really, we need a couple of closer to home days before the big push to Rome, then onwards home.

    The packing, the sorting, the trepidation of bringing out the luggage scale...it's getting real. The very idea of wearing long pants, socks, shoes... Oh no!

    So there are breaks. A slow drive to Martina Franca for market day. The pleasure of slowly ambling along the stalls. Nothing to be purchased, despite the temptation of bright colourful pyramids of fruits and vegetables.

    A quiet enjoyment of smooth pale gold stones underfoot, white walls and short steep steps to doors with a single, central door knob. And the brilliant highlights of bougainvillia and geraniums perfectly accentuating cool backgrounds.

    There's time to just stop and watch the skill and patience of the worker manning the controls of the vertical crane lifting a large crate high onto a roof. There's barely any room for him to manœuvre, and people stroll right under the crane. A delivery van swoops in and out, scooters pass. Amazing, at home as Brad observes, streets would be blocked off all around.

    Time to enjoy a chat with chance met fellow Canadians, a young family with an adorable toddler.

    And home, to swim in a sea that almost feels gelid. Its waves draw me in, then gently push me back and forth. Until it time to dry off, brush off the sand, find a good glass of wine and enjoy the sunset picture show.

    Its a fine show tonight, indeed.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Castelllo Tramontano, near our hotel. Started in 1501, never finished.
    Crunchy goodness!GravinaChapel alter...no pic of the crypt, géant writes about taking a pic there!No time to die scene filmed right hereThe chapelAm Alice restaurant, I always take sign pics with her name ♥️Altamura famous giant breadSquare with the ancient bakery in altamuraWorking in an 800 year old bakery. It was sweltering hot!Low, low rider arch - lowest in EuropeAltamura has wonderfully enticing cool alleysThe walkway to our home exchangeAnd the fabulous blue flag beach that we get to come back to every day.

    Altamura & Gravina

    11 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Hard to tear ourselves away from Matera - if I were to return, I'd stay longer. Soaking up the atmosphere of this peaceful ancient settlement is restorative to the soul, and I'm so glad we were here. There's an abandoned 15 th century castle just above our hotel, so we start our day with a walk around. We marvel at construction techniques that are enduring and elegant.

    There are, as always, nearby points of interest. Puglia is endlessly diverting, and I'm satisfied that our decision to remain in only this area was the correct one. Leaving Matera is a bit trickier, traffic is busy. And we are looking for a very specific local item at a grocery. Yesterday I had a salad for lunch that featured a remarkable crunchy dried pepper that was so flavorful and unique. Our waiter said they are a very local specialty that Materans are very proud of. Called cruschi, for crunchy, it's a specific type. Sweet rather than hot. We're advised to not buy it in the tourist stores, but at a grocery.

    Easier said than done! And you are always up against the clock, most of even the biggest name stores close from 130 to 5 or so. We have no luck in the couple we try in Matera, so we'll try our luck in Gravina.

    One filter I wish I could add to Google maps would be avoid undersized streets that only micro-cars fit! In Gravina we squeeze through alleys holding our breath ( and folding in side mirrors) until we emerge onto a central plaza with parking and can exhale.

    Landing in front of the imposing 12th century cathedral and museum complex is a perfect position. Yet the only church we enter is small and plain, a marked contrast to the Romanesque facade of the cathedral. This is the Chapel of Santa Maria Suffragio and is attended by one small quiet man who communicates his pride clearly, despite our lack of Italian. He gently touches my arm to lead me to the centre of honour: the crypt. Illuminating it with a small switch, we see the tomb of Duke Ferdinand III. It's an interesting, somewhat macabre chapel, with a theme of skeletons that's definitely unusual.

    The highlight of Gravina is the Ponte Acquedotto, a 17th century bridge connecting the town on one side of the ravine with ancient cave churches in the other. This remarkable, gracefully arched and soaring bridge was the location of a famous scene in the James Bond film No Time To Die.

    After crossing the bridge under intense sun and heat, it's time to chill with a gelato, then resume the cruschi pepper search. Patience pays off, in the 3rd store we find, and just before closing, too! Now we canwork our way out of the labyrinth in the cool comfort of air conditioning.

    Only to promptly land in another tiny street maze in nearby Altamura 😊. There are several claims to fame in this pretty town, I'm interested in seeing the Forno Antico Santa Catarina....a bread oven in a bakery that has been in continuous use since 1391!

    A large bread of the traditional altamura style treats on a table outside. This bread has a DOP designation, it must be made in the same way with the local natural products. Even the wood for the fire must be traditional, beech or chestnut. The recipe is generations old, and will be baked in a huge wood fired oven such as this.

    Centuries ago, the women of the town would bring their loaves to be baked in the communal oven. Therefore, a stamp signifying the family name would be used to tell the loaves apart.

    These huge loaves have a character tistic shape, like a folded over lump, or could have 4 peaks. Inside, an unusual golden yellow from the durum wheat.

    Astounding to conceive that this very oven was in the same place, with the same function, so many centuries ago. This is the essence of Europe to me, that deep, deep connection to their own history. Not even that history is in the past, but that its still lived today.

    And as I just read today in a post, someone said what they love most about Europe is that they'll "throw a whole ass festival for like, one vegetable".

    I feel that, I respect that, and I am here for it!    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    We walked onto a cafe balcony, to be surprised y this view
    Matera by dayPrehistoric cavesRecreated inside of a sassi homeFlowers grow right out of stoneTypical Matera breadConvent of saint AugustineSo many plants, it's much more green than expectedInterior of the 13th century Chiesa de Giovanni Batista

    Matera

    9 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The whole concept of this journey began almost exactly 2 years ago, when I was first shown a picture of Matera.

    The image of this biblical looking tumble of ancient stone dwellings utterly captivated me. I knew I wanted to be in this place.

    And today here we are. It's indescribable, really. There's a serenity here that belies its lengthy turbulent past. This is one of the oldest known human settlements in the world. People may have been living here since 7000 BC.

    Centuries of human history shown on worn smooth stone roads, crumbling stone carvings, and churches carved into caves. The roofs of homes become the road underneath the next level above them. It's extraordinary. It's hard to look away from the vista in front of us, yet the eye is drawn across the valley below to the more rudimentary ancient caves in the stony side facing us.

    I can feel those people, and the low murmur of voices around us today could as easily be echoes of voices long gone.

    Its hard not to be poetic, in a place of such inspirational beauty.

    Here, in the 1950s, the people who lived in these dwellings called sassi were existing in devastating poverty. The Italian government deemed this to be a national shame. They built modern housing and forcibly relocated citizens who could well have been living in the same caves their families had been in for centuries.

    Since the 1993, Matera has been a UNESCO protected site that is recognized for its "exceptional and universal value as a cultural and national treasure."

    Efforts are ongoing to preserve this city and it continues to offer up surprises. Recent roadworks revealed an entirely unsuspected church featuring medieval frescoes.

    We've walked all day, into the evening and night. Few places can rival the mystical, magnetic draw of Matera.

    Its prehistoric, it's Norman, it's biblical, it's old and it's new, it's all of human history, and all of us began in places such as this.

    Unforgettable.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Trulli in a more natural setting. This is an actual home.
    Padre Pio statueRoad captain for the triumph rideOrechiette with turnip greens, sumptuousMartina Franca cathedralFunky little cafe right beside the cathedralOur host Maria Carmela and i

    Martina Franca

    6 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    What an amazing coincidence, we arrive in Martina Franca to find yet again, a swarm of motorcyclists! I mean, it's pretty understandable, these roads and this scenery would make for some epic riding. Brad manages to find out this is an annual ride. These are all Triumph owners, and there are 400 of them here!

    We have lunch on a restaurant our host Maria has recommended. We'll meet her later on when she's finished work. I finally try a local specialty, orechiette rape, pasta with turnip greens. It's amazing, bright green sprigs of greens with the rounded "ears" that are orechiette, and a sauce with a hint of anchovy to add a boost to flavour. Brad has ordered a mixed grill plate. Ive translated the menu, so I know what hes getting: gnomerelli, which is liver, heart and lung of the lamb, among other things. Brad says don't tell me what it is until I'm done, so he can guess. Good call, I think. Shudder. I'm not a sophisticated enough palate to savour that one!

    Martina is particularly lovely, so our 2 towns today have been visually gorgeous, and also have an atmosphere of relaxed enjoyment. We are in the very heart of the Val d'Itria here, the valley of olive groves, vineyards, and trulli. When we meet up with Maria, she says in a week or two, it will be jam packed everywhere.

    We're sipping a refreshing and cool local drink, a limonata, and enjoying a visit with our host. She tells us a local legend about a statue we can see from our table. She has many of these stories, as her father was a town doctor when Maria was small. He would take her with him as he walked about on his calls, and tell her local legends about the places they passed by.

    The statue we see is atop the St. Stephen gate to the city. It commemorates a miraculous event when the city's patron saint, San Martino, saved the townspeople from a siege. Maria recounts the story to us, describing townspeople huddled in fear in the cathedral. Starving and terrified for their lives when San Martino and his cavalry swoop in to save them. She's a great storyteller. This is how people have such a strong tie to where they live I think, Maria tells the story as if it happened to a near relative not that long ago. It was 1529!

    Sounds absolutely idyllic!    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Steps lined with a rainbow of colourPottery shop displayCreative and unexpected touchesCarving from 1527 in a modest churchBest gelato!Tiny church of St Lucia, patron Saint of eyesight

    Cisternino

    6 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    This destination was added to our list on the recommendation of the helpful tourism worker in Conversano last week.

    It happens to dovetail nicely with our plan to visit Martina Franca, so it's a perfect first stop.

    Cisternino is a white town, another listed by the Borgh Italia as a most beautiful village. Towns are chosen for this list to highlight the best of the history, art, culture and landscapes of Italy.

     Dazzling white buildings with greenery and colourful plants in pots abound. It really is entrancing to just let your feet follow your eyes!

    The city speaks for itself visually, so the pictures can tell the story. I can only add that we had the best gelato so far, possibly ever, from a little place just under the clock tower.

    12/10 recommend!    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Palazzo del Sedile, the clock tower or old town hall of Bari
    Common little carts in narrow old streetsPalazzo MincusiA gorgeous and delicious confection!Doma baker hard at workPasta drying in the sunThey're all making this hat shape todayBrad has created tiramisu!Our ravioliPerfectly cooked and sauced tagliatelleThe test!Basilica of st. Nicolas, 1087Memorable wedding location!Crypt of St Nicolas

    Bari

    5 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    An early start in bright but cool sunshine sees us headed north to Bari. The Adriatic on our right is separated from the highway by beaches and by fields with fat round rolls of hay contrasted by little pointed trullli.

    Its a pleasant drive of about an hour, then we enter the traffic madness of the biggest city we've been in for quite a while. While the traffic is of intimidating volume, the architectural beauty is my immediate first impression. This city is lovely! And amazingly, we find parking right on the seaside main road, a spot so convenient that I need to use translate to ask a local if we are really allowed to park here! We are, and the 1 euro an hour seems relatively standard. That's noticeable along all spectrums: gas prices, cappuccino, grocery....there's little variation.

    Italy is in the top 10 of most expensive gas in the world, a list I'm a bit shocked Canada isn't on! Luckily our rental seems to take dainty little sips to keep us moving, at about 1.72 a litre, or $2.69 CAD.

    Bari has some major points of interest, such as a Norman castle, a couple of glorious theatres, and of course cathedrals, convents, archives and museums. All have appeal, I always love a castle! But this one is under renovation, as you expect from time to time in a castle built in the early 1100s.

    I don't mind because just losing myself in these streets is enjoyable enough. Wide boulevards showcase the boring, big name stores and brands. Large piazzas and small squares are highlighted with tall tropical palms underpinned with foliage and accentuated with brilliant red, orange, gold and pink flowers.

    I'm on a search for just the right pastry, from just the right looking paneterria. My sisters will understand this immediately! My "any pastry is a good pastry" husband doesn't, but patiently comes along on the search.

    I have found it, the Roman cream bun called maritozzi. It's absolutely luscious, and I enjoy every crumb of it! There is no doubt it's made on site, as large windows provide patrons with a ringside view into the bakery kitchen. I know how it feels to work in a fishbowl, but at least I don't have people snapping pics of me at work. Although if I were handsome young Italian pastry chef, that could be more of an occupational hazard 😅.

    Thus fortified, we can begin to make our way towards Ceralacca, a restaurant where we have booked a pasta and tiramisu making class.

    We walk through the famous pasta making street Arco Basso, just alongside the castle. The women roll and shape their pasta with incredible dexterity and speed, and trays of multi coloured pasta dry in the sun.

    Ceralacca is rated #2 out of over 1400 restaurants in Bari, and is owned by a professional sommelier. We have the oversight and instruction of the chef with Aliseia as our interpreter. Our small group is led through the process of tiramisu making first, then the pasta. It's an art to getting the feel of the very basic dough of eggs and flour. After mixing and kneading, we get to roll through the pasta machine.

    A few turns through, our lovely flat doughs get one last bit of flour, a change on the position of the rollers...and dough is magically transformed into tagliatelle! Now I want to make all the shapes!

    We make also a half moon ravioli, filled with ricotta and spinach. The chef whisks our creations away to cook, and by time they are returned to us, they are enveloped in simple delicious sauces and we all enjoy as much of them as we can eat!

    You wouldn't think we would have room for tiramusu, but much as the cream fills in around the ladyfingers, we all find enough room to fit in dessert. But not until after we are instructed by Alecia to do the final test of our tiramusu: a complete inversion. If its not set, this could get very messy! But it's perfect, and every last bit is savoured.

    I could use a spatula to scrape up this creamy dessert - a tool Alessia calls a lecca paella - a pan licker !    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Basilica Cathedral Madonna Della Maria
    1Cathedral interiorThe Altar of Madonna Della MariaMonopoliSes viewGrotto restaurantPolignanoMonopoli old harbourThe claustrophobic bank doorThe Yellow Hall of the Carducci residenceThere are many unique curio clocks in the homeAn original Pinocchio doll, brought back from Japan by the Prince for his sonA papier mâche figure, the famous FarinellaPiazza Plebiscito, PutignanoChurch of San Pietro Apostolo, 11 th centuryPutignano streetCountryside drive home

    Polignano and Putignano

    4 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    And we're back, let's try this boat trip again! Today there's time to visit the unbelievable Basilica of the Madonna Della Maria, home of the icon that miraculously drifted in on a raft in 1117. Work had begun ten years before, and was paused due to a lack of roof beams. The raft was used to continue the roof, and the icon remains here to this day.

    A short tunnel from the Bishop's Palace leads to the stunning view of an imposing Baroque cathedral dominating a tiny square. From that modest beginning what we see today is an absolute glory of inlaid marble, gilt, soaring transepts, and a glorious staircase that leads to the elevated chapel of the Madonna.

    Amazingly its permitted to climb the stairs and of course we do. This is to me a very unusual layout. I think it's to highlight the importance of the icon, and it's extravagant setting while remaining so accessible is truly unique.

    But time ticks on, so we move along to the harbour where our captain graciously hands us back aboard, along with our Norwegian companions from yesterday. The water is still choppy, but our little craft determinedly forges north, towards the caves of Polignano.

    This extraordinary configuration of caves carved out by the sea is spectacular. From the water, the depth and size of these enormous caves can really be appreciated. The dark interiors, overhung by stone and highlighted in front by stunning turquoise waters are breath taking sight. There are many named caves among the coast and the most famous is the Palazzese Grotto, with a world famous restaurant.

    Its astounding to see an entire city seemingly so precariously perched over these caverns. Smaller boats can cruise right into them, and even through tunnels.

    Birds nest in smaller nooks, popping out suddenly then gliding in great swoops over and around the boats. An impressibly balanced paddle boarder skilfully flows along smoothly managing the waves underneath Polignano.

    An amazing day to be out on the water. There is a pause and olives, tarelli and spumante are handed out by our taciturn cigarette smoking captain. I think he's friendly enough, just a language barrier. He has enough English to point to the palazzo restaurant and say "very expensive, one breakfast 80 euro"

    The tides and waves are helpfully pushing us back to Monopoli, and on no time we are back to our little gray Peugeot and rolling along country roads.

    Putignano is a quieter town and an unknown to us. There's always something to discover when you don't know anything about a place! Something I love about Europe is small villages and towns can have centuries of traditions, and a history that forms an identity. People have a real pride in their town of origin.

    Now despite the fact we have a very fascinating insight into Putignano millennium and more of history, we first are entertained by a modern wine dispenser😊. It's just so cheap, we will have to try just to see ( update, it's not good, I used some to cook wirh later that night 😅)

    I'm less entertained by a claustrophobia inducing security entry to the local bank 😅

    Just in time the museum that forms one side of the Piazza del Plebiscito opens. We enjoy a virtually private tour of the former residence of local historic family Romanazzi Carducci. Our lovely young guide is a local and in charmingly accented English she tells us of the minor royalties that lived here.

    This residence also houses the museum of the carnavale. Turns out this is the oldest traditional annual events in Italy, with its origin traced back to 1394. Some relics were being moved from nearby Monopoli to the town, and a parade formed to escort them. Rural peasants of the time would wear masks and accompanied with homemade instruments, would make fun of prominent local characters. The parade merged with this carnival occurrence and the Propaggini carnival began. Every year, it begins on December 26, and a series of ritual celebrations takes place on Thursdays and Sundays.

    The end of the event is on Ash Tuesday, and a grand parade of gigantic floats occurs. Since World War Two, when many supplies were required for war efforts, papier mache had been used to create fantastical and massive, up to 30 foot high, creations..

    Its been a fascinating insight into a local tradition, and our only regret is not being here to witness this incredible scene! Although the announcement of the end of the long festival lead up is 366 peals of the church bell!    Läs mer

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    Savelletri

    4 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our host Maria Carmela told us an interesting fact. The 2024 G7 meeting was held in this little coastal town known for its upscale luxury resort.

    As we headed back up towards Monopoli today for our rescheduled boat tour we make a point of stopping on.

    Its such an inviting waterside route, parallel to the bigger highway. Our road curves and leans around rocky points, then bends inwards to small sheltered beaches and coves.

    Fishers are out langouously casting from the rocks and kids are already happily splashing on the sandy shorea as the morning sun heats up.

    Salvelletri is quiet in the early day, with few pedestrians. It has the feel of an older world place to be, rather than a playground for the rich and famous. Maybe they're all at that luxury resort. Madonna and the Beckhams have been known to holiday here, Justin Timberlake got married here.

    Our Canadian Justin would have attended last year. And now they're all about to visit us, in Kananaksis, Alberta.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Chiesa di S. Francisco de Assissi, from 1749
    Polignano busy beachInteresting creative cornerPolignano harbourThis water color!Polignano flowersBrad enjoying a conversation with a busker who normally plays in an Aerosmith tribute bandStair poetryMonopoli mailLibrary study room with view of old harbourMonopoli harbour and castleThat is a very stern, completely by-passable door😅Monopoli seawalk"our beach"This guard dog can't resist Brad...or is it vice versa?

    A 3 Hour Tour

    2 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I thought it was funny that our booked boat tour from Monopoli was 3 hours. Still funny as we set off into choppy turquoise waves....until the captain informs us the winds are too rough. So our tiny ship is tossed back to the harbour. We and our Norwegian couple fellow tourists will try again tomorrow.

    So now, all afternoon to explore Monopoli at our leisure. We were in Polignano a Mare yesterday. It was crowded and very, very busy, as expected since it was a national holiday. Still remarkably appealing with its distinctive harbour, which was quite busy with swimmers and sunbathers on a hot day like this.

    Polignano is another city of arts, decorated with poetry on walls and stairs, even a textile art crochet decorated cactus corner. It's so engaging, and visually stunning, with glimpses of turquoise water from balcony viewpoints. Still, the crowds were intense and we decided to return home to our beach, and try book a boat tour for the next day.

    Today, our failed boat tour day, we had discovered on our way in the serenely pastel blue Chiesa di S. Francesco Assisi, a calm presence at the beginning point of the old town. We decide to work our way back though the old town area to that point.

    After leaving the new harbour we head first to the incredibly photogenic old harbour. The blue boats are a counterpoint to the sand coloured Castle of Charles V that lines one side of the harbour. The boat colours are traditional, reflecting the colour of the cloak of Madonna del Mafia. She is a Byzantine icon that arrived mysteriously in 1117, and lives to this day in the cathedral here.

    Monopoli is calmer, it feels quietly confident of its historic beauty. There's a street with sunflowers dotting and decorating with sunny cheer. Narrow alleys give way to lively squares then just as quickly twist away to cool shaded corners.

    And there's a library, modern and sparse. Clean lines, minimal furniture, and breath taking scenery outside every window. How does anyone concentrate to study here.?

    So we get to make our way back to our ever inviting beach, with a wonderful day exploring behind us, and a boat tour still enticingly ahead.    Läs mer

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    Random

    2 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Little kids with perfectly in
    Insouciant little sweaters over their should is never not cute

    The tourist office a géant in Conversano that blushed when we thanked her for all her help and in English to. She was so happy with our little Canada pin, b said e are the nicest she had helped in 2 years

    Speed limits are a ridiculous call grab. Set so low routinely ignored

    Italian woman have an elegance that seems almost careless, the men are assertively elegant    Läs mer

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    Fasano Baroque Festival

    1 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Every year the Town of Fasano concludes a month long festival with huge fanfare and a grand re-enactment of a major historical event.

    On June 2, 1678 the townspeople rose up against Turkish pirate raiders. An epic battle took place, and the town successfully reclaimed their peace and prosperity.

    A distant, compelling drumbeat heralds the beginning of the evening with a parade, just as the sun begins to set. Closer and closer the drums march forward, the drums beat insistently louder, and now flag throwers appear. Women and men in graceful Baroque period costumes sweep along the shining stone streets. A rolled banner is escorted by officials, and the key to the city, one presumes, is displayed on an ornate pillow carried by a young woman.

    The short parade ends in the town centre square. A brief speech, bracketed by triumphant trumpets, is read and the banner is unfurled. The drums rejoice! The flags are thrown higher and higher! You don't need to understand Italian to know a great victory had just been recounted.

    It's a fantastic atmosphere, all ages are well represented and everyone is relaxed and happy. Despite the costumery, there's no undue formality. Friends and family interact with the participants, much smiling and laughter. Children are darting about, toddlers held high on shoulders, and dressed up seniors are all enjoying the events. Everything is so clean, and first aid attendants dressed in red are on patrol.

    The re-enactment begins with a dance. There is narration that might make more sense of the story, but we just enjoy the graceful moves of the performerz. And marvel at their skill, dancing on smooth polished stone that is undeniably on a slant!

    A very, very long intermission ensues. I would love to see the battle re-enactment, but it's all very drawn out and we want to see the town, too. It's bubbling busy, the drummers are marching and winding their way through town, and bursts of music come through the narrow medieval alleys.

    We see traditional country dancers replaced by a modern day DJ in a tiny square, and parents dance with tiny, stylishly well dressed preschoolers. Kids are so well behaved! Everyone is, no garbage thrown about, no yelling, just an absolute good time.

    For me, the very best part of this festival is the timelessness. The events are centuries in the past, but feel so near. The dusk, the costumes, the drums....taken all together, the feeling of having moved back through time is very real, and a tiny leap of imagination is all it takes to be there.

    We are winding down faster than the evening is though, and take our leave. Time for a cup of tea and rest.    Läs mer

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    Jasmine, in clouds of flowers and fragranceConversano Church towerDoorway to Monastero de San BenedettoConversanoHighlighting the cherries, not the castle 😊ConversanoBrilliant pink!Little cherry tree valiantly proving its abilitiesRoast pig a handy shortcut when you can't read Italian

    The day of the cherry festivals

    1 juni, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    A huge local event on this holiday long weekend is the Festa Della Ciliega. The nearby towns of Turi and Conversano are famed for their production of the Ferroviaire Cherry. This "red gold of Puglia" is also called the railway cherry, due to being discovered on a tree beside the railway that was being tended by a lineman. Of course, it could also be that this juicy varietal just ships really well!

    Its a very big deal here. Puglia is Italy's largest cherry producing region, and these 2 towns are the epicentre.

    So we go first to Conversano, the smaller of the 2. This ancient town is known as an art loving town, and in fact its Norman castle is proudly featuring an M. C. Escher exhibition today. A local helpfully offering tips to us was sure to note this as a top feature. It's amusing because the absolute beauty of his everyday background is what really stands out for me, not an exhibition!

    Conversano is just lovely. It's peacefully pretty, and the festival seems low key this early in the day. But as we stroll across the plaza, suddenly we are greeted loudly and warmly by a small group of people - its our dancing friends from Marina Sera! What a coincidence! We are all very amused by this. I wish I could communicate better with this lively and friendly group. We settle for smiles mostly, and a couple words I can pick out are piccolo Mondo - small world😊. Indeed.

    They are moving on to Turi shortly, the epicentre of cherry festivities. So we part ways, thinking we will see each other there.

    Its an enjoyable roam around quiet golden alleys, appreciating the artistic touches while sharing a cup of local cherries.

    Interesting fact about Conversano: the counts of Conversano had stud farms, breeding horses with Andalusian backgrounds. In 1767, one of their horses, named Conversano, became one of the principal stallions that established the famed Lippizaner horses.

    A short drive over to Turi curves through numerous cherry orchards. Most trees are covered with rows of cloth atop them, and all have pathways of red poppies billowing beneath. It would be red above and below if they didn't need to carefully protect "l'oro Rosso", the Red gold!

    Turi is so much bigger! Here festivities are far more evident. Rows of food trucks give way to stand after stand offering cups, bags, and boxes of cherries. Even the trees are for sale as small saplings, and we saw many happily being carried off to new homes.

    Cherry gelato is on offer, and cherry decor festoons walls and buildings. This is enormous, I'm not sure we will see our friends at all.

    But I've made a travel mistake....waited too long to eat! I really don't want food truck type food, but the timing is off. Too late for lunch, too early for dinner. So I have to settle for what is actually a pretty decent pork sandwich!

    We can sense that anticipation is lazily building for likely evening events, but we're here in kind of afternoon doldrums. It seems time to go home for a quick swim and sun.....there's still an evening festival to attend!    Läs mer

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    Tarelli of all sorts, like a little knotted breadstick. Love them!
    Strawberry vendorGorgeous berries, warm in the sunHeavy, golden Puglian breadTraditional shape of a local cheese called caciocavello. It's very mildSnails, as many as you want.Another local very soft cheese.Lower market, the textiles and housewaresOstuni flower shopSidewalk stair cafeUnderstated shop front of gelato fameThe hunter with his spoilsCalvario di OstuniLunch is served on the back patioTable view, we have an outdoor showerA non alcoholic campari soda premix. It's so good!Sant dOronzos column, patron Saint of the city

    To market, to market

    31 maj, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was all about the Ostuni market day. We'd planned to start early, but not quite as early as this one gets going, 7 am.

    The amount of traffic, an increase of people walking with bags and baskets, and then cars parked higgelty piggelty anywhere they fit...all signs we're in the right place!

    We love street markets, and split up so we can both explore at our leisure. The energy is high, people are browsing through piled clothes on tables where we entered. It's busy, but happy busy, not frantic. Vendors call out their wares, cinque euro, signora, Bellisimo, Vero lino. There are indeed piles of second hand linen dresses for five euro.

    Once as I pass between tables on both sides, the vendors called out the exact same phrase at the exact same time, and burst out laughing. That's the friendly competitive background noise, as women at the clothing tables sort and sift through the offerings. They assess rapidly with much animated discussion with friends.

    The food market is a sensory feast, colourful and fragrant, and the busiest part. Fraagola, fragola sings out a woman at a table heaped with bright red strawberries. The crowds around her table call out the amount they want to spend, and she expertly wields her giant scoop, filling paper bags. For our 2 euro we get a big scoop of fresh sunshiny warm berries.

    Brad strikes up conversation with a man taking photos, who turns out to be from Toronto. We're joined by his wife and enjoy a conversation with Glen and Patti. They live here part time, and love it. There's family background that brings them here, but they admit too that life is far more affordable here than in Canada. That's not the main draw - the slower lifestyle, the time to enjoy life, food, family, that's an immense appeal. We will perhaps meet up with them again in a few days.

    A short wander through Ostunis old centre is today not to sightsee, but to enjoy a real, made on site, authentic Italian gelato. Cremaria alla Scala is famed for their quality and they definitely do not disappoint. I have the recommended nociella, hazelnut, and a pear that is like biting into a creamy soft real pear. The flavors are perfect.

    And home for lunch! A joy of adulthood, where dessert before lunch is perfectly appropriate. A spread of our mornings acquisitions makes for a glorious al fresco meal. And a leisurely midday meal is followed by a lazy sunning at the beach afternoon.

    With all the compelling beauty and history around us beckoning, it's important to remember there is no joy in exhaustedly ticking off some mental to do list of travel. We need this down time, and luxuriate in it.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    The car Brad wishes we rented
    Ostuni beach sunsetAlberobello trulliDoors can be a little tightLocorotondo alley2Sunburnt me with a cool Hugo spritzLocorotondo lacey sunscreensLocorotondoVariety of treats 😊

    Normal life: Work 🔼🔼 Gelato: 🔽🔽

    29 maj, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    But vacation life! Reverse!

    Woke up yesterday in Taranto to a thunderous downpour that has set the streets running with rivers and dulled the lively vibe of last night. Good thing we're not hiking right now!

    Our attentive and wonderful host at the B & B has brought fresh pastries, made us cappuccino, and ordered a taxi to the car rental.

    And we're off, on our own braving an unfamiliar vehicle, traffic laws that are new, in a strange city....in torrential rain. Towards a destination that makes google maps say "huh?" when I try to input it😂

    But we make it easily enough - or Brad does, I would still be back in Taranto myself if I had to drive. Our house exchange hosts, Maria Carmela and Angelo are so warm and welcoming. They show us around the complex we will be in, which is their summer home. It's a dizzying complex, huge. After we are treated to a cappuccino at the on site restaurant and introduced to the proprietor, we have time to trade pictures of kids and grandkids( Maria and I) and pictures of cars and motorcycles (Anglelo & Brad)

    There's enough time to go for groceries and settle in, ( I like this part) before enjoying a sunset walk on the beach.

    This morning dawned bright, clear, and breezy. We're off to Alberobello, which I know will be busy and touristy but Maria Carmela assures me is not to be missed, even so.

    These iconic trulli homes are mostly souvenir shops now, at least in the town. Really we can see these dwellings strewn throughout the countryside. Their prehistoric shape and design, particularly in the concentration and landscape of Alberobello, is a UNESCO protected world cultural heritage.

    They are captivating, in design, in number, in such a charming setting. Crowds are an unsurprising corollary to such a unique environment.

    We move on to the nearby Locorotondo. Now this, this, is the feel and look I love! I instantly fall in love with this town. I could wander these smooth, golden stone cobble streets for hours. Many more restaurants than souvenirs, far less crowds. And thats mystifying, because this town, named as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, really delivers.

    I don't really want to leave, and I think we may return to this one. It has a very compelling peacefulness and beauty.

    A tranquil slow paced journey home through the countryside is only overset by the perplexing labyrinth that is the location of our exchange😂 We finally arrive home, and a glass of very good local Nero di Itria helps restore my equilibrium!    Läs mer

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    Bus stop
    Porta Napoli, gate to old city Lecce & start point CamminoRed geraniums & golden stone ♥️Dark area is section of Roman road, 1st century ADSanta Chiara, LecceCastelllo Aragonese, TarantoFirst rate room keysPiazza Maria immacollata, Taranto1Solid green marble front to Patek Philippe storeStairway in our building, 84 steps Brad tells meMe at castelllo Aragonese3Original!Classic elegance2Our hotel building

    Taranto

    28 maj, Italien ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Up at 5 to catch the 6:10 bus, from the most obscure bus stop 😊. The hotel kindly packed us lunches, and we're off on an entirely different trek.

    To Taranto, via Lecce. The bus change in Lecce gives us time to walk back to the hostel to pick up our suitcases. Lecce in the early morning is so inviting, quiet cobble streets are being to build in activity and the sun is warming the stone and waking up flowers.

    It almost feels a familiar walk through the narrow twisty streets back to the hostel. They are just so kind and helpful here at the lobby Collective hostel, inviting us to just relax and use the premises if we wanted. They wanted to hear how our cammino went, so we got to share some experiences.

    The process to board the bus at Lecce is a bit convoluted as they are working on the station, so we're led about 3 blocks away to board.

    The heat is rising when we arrive in Taranto. As is common, the area right near the bus station is sketchy so we make quick distance towards the hotel booked en route. I know I'm too dependent on the internet, but data makes life so much easier!

    Our street is so perfectly Mediterranean, I'm absolutely charmed. Our hotel is in an old home with classic high ceilings and inlaid tile floors. This cool atmosphere is quite welcome!

    Later, we join locals and other tourists on an evening stroll. I love the liveliness of a warm night, children darting in and out, elderly couples on a formal, arm in arm promenade, faint music, busy shops and restaurant chatter. To amble along, gaze at the latest fashions, compare possible gelato stores....this is how life should be.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Today's starting, goat path up a mountain!
    Waypoint with some life adviceWackiest scarecrows I ever did seeI love this houseSo pretty! Capers come from it's buds, google saysYou know I'm gonna go find a grotto!Trail to grotto heavily dependent on gravityGrotto too big to photo!Bridge is called il cioloSo many of these stone shelters scattered on hillsidesLeuca sunsetIf you know Brad, you know he will always find a catLeuca evening strollHilarious, a round pool table.Pool view!We are possessed, we MUST climb these stairs!View was worth itBasilica at S. M. Di LeucaConfluence, where Ionian, Mediterranean, and Adriatic seas meet

    Santa Maria di Leuca

    26 maj, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    And so, we are here. A long road has been followed by a lazy day resting and relaxing at this resort hotel. We decided we've earned it!

    A tough but great trail from Marina Serra to here, just the best. Endless ocean views, crazy rock formations, grottos, and charming homes tucked into hillside olive groves. The path at times is just a suggestion of reddish dirt winding through porous open sides.

    Figuring out the way onwards from here was impossible from Canada - and equally so here. When we manage to convey we are trying to get to Taranto, a town some 150 km straight up the coast, we're met with perplexed confusion. And the response, not possible, you must go to Lecce first. A town on the opposite coast!

    We make several visits to the bus ticket/gelato vendor and we think we have a handle on this. At least partway. But that's tomorrow's issue.

    Today, I'm reflecting on our journey. We challenged ourselves, and exceeded what we thought we could do. We've realized we missed the camaraderie of a true Camino, and would be willing to trade off a bit of crowding for that. Interesting, because I wouldn't have thought so prior to this.

    I know our hands down favorite moment from this trek will be the impromptu karaoke party in Marina Serra, but I also recall a conversation over breakfast with a couple of American tourists seated beside us one day.

    We chatted general travel tales and where we were from. And as we were preparing to leave, one woman asked, hesitantly, can I just ask....

    I knew where she was going. And she did, she asked how we, as Canadians, felt about America right now. I considered. And I said, I think its really brave of you to invite this conversation. And I'll say, your leadership is appalling, disgusting. But there is a difference between the leader and the people. They are not the same. Americans have been our friends, allies, for decades. And I hope we will be again. But not under him.

    She shared they felt concern, as travellers, to identify as American. This is new territory, they've never felt ashamed before. And they apologized, when so clearly this does not represent them.

    So there's that. But on less worldly scale, I'm reflecting too, on the humbling aspects of travel in a land where you can't communicate easily. The hospitality of Puglia has been legendary, and almost, but not quite, matches the scale of its beauty.

    The food I can't speak to yet, other than gelato of course! Hiking does not work well with heavy meals, or even regular ones. I'm anticipating the time for that!    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    The European commitment to the Nutella brand is intense
    Old mill wheel repurposedLeaving Santa CesareBig, big cactiBike gangLooking down to CastroCastro, a pretty white villageGelato decor is on pointCastro harbourSea walkSteepest driveway I've ever seenFriends on our hotel patioContortionist showerMarinna serra

    Dancing on the waterfront at sunset

    25 maj, Italien ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    The bear went over the mountain 🎶 that preschool song is running through my mind, as today's route takes us down into Castro, up t

    o Marina de Marittima, down to Porto Tricase, up to.....you all know the song. He saw another mountain 😅

    Luckily like any serious athlete, I have diligently prepared for this, carbonara carb loading the evening before.

    Still! And we've altered the official route a bit too as that called for scaling a completely unnecessary cliffside. We'll stick along the sea. We see some other walkers, a new foursome we saw at the hotel this morning, but they seem a pretty closed unit. We see red backpack, our guide from the other day. She's Korean, and says us 3 are the only non italians on the path.

    She is taking a longer but more scenic route. Which I present an argument in favour of, and Brad counters with: still scenic + shorter = ✅🎯

    So on we go. In Castro we stopped at the famed Martinucci Laboratory for gelato. I have almond pesto with fig sauce and pistachio Martinucci, heavenly.

    Sitting on the plaza enjoying our gelatos, I'm amused to see a preschooler and a senior pass each other, whizzing in opposite directions, both on scooters.

    And our day wends along. Today bicyclists are far more evident than their motorized counterparts. At least, initially. They travel in lycra packs, serious cyclists, whip thin and racing the roads on narrow, narrow tires.

    The sea is a constant companion on our left as we twist and weave ever southward. Giant sprays of water burst over rocky shores and cliffsides. No sandy beaches here, this is wild and free dramatic coast.

    Elegant villas face the sea all along, and more modest homes that have likely been here longer. From these, laundry on lines blows in the steady breeze, with pants jigging and sheets tacking like sails.

    And here we arrive, in Marina Serra. Our hotel proprieter is in a wheelchair with a broken foot, and her family is here to help. Her mother possibly, and I, manage to find enough common ground in French to communicate. Success!

    And here I sit, with my laundry, on a lovely balcony, watching a lively sea and slow streets.

    The only thing that I just will never understand, is why Italian hotel showers, appear to be designed for pygmy contortionist.

    At sunset we go out to walk and look for dinner, and come across a lively group posing for pictures. Their exuberant leader draws us in, turns out they are friends that sing and dance together. They are overjoyed that they have met Canadians! We must sing and dance together! In moments, a cooler appears and small glasses of beer are handed out, a karaoke machine arrives, and it is announced the bar patio beside us had allowed us to use their space. What a joyful, wonderful, unexpected experience, as we are serenaded and taught a traditional country dance step, with much laughter. Luckily one man spoke English! Classic Italian songs were huge crowd pleasers, with clapping and gestures that were well known to all. Our group had swelled, and onlookers clap along.

    One bystander turned participant came up to Brad, looked at him very seriously and said I feel I know you. I think you are Italian! This I'm sure it's a very high compliment.

    We regretfully must move along and find some food. Addresses are exchanged, so we can share the numerous photos and videos of the evening.

    And that is how there are videos out there of me singing and dancing on an Italian small town waterfront 😅    Läs mer

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    Spilling over walls, perfumed jasmine everywhere
    Flock of sheepThese dazzling red poppies aboundGreggi = cow?Ocean seem from Porta BadiscaRoman lighthouse remainsDogs!You'll never shift that Brad!WheatSanta cesare termeVilla raffaella

    Otranto to Santa Cesarea Terme

    24 maj, Italien ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Big name for a little seaside spa town. We took an alternate route today, new route, new views!

    Started off with another stellar Puglian breakfast, outstanding!

    Flanked by wheat fields and always, always brilliant wild flowers scenting the air, it's an easy way to walk. Fields are marked by old crumbling stone walls. Not a lot appears industrialized, this is old school agriculture. Hard work.

    We even see an actual shepherd with a flock. He has 2 canine assistants, a very conscientious border colllie and a more casual fellow that's just there for fun and company I guess. But the collie came right up to me and laid its head against my leg trustingly. It's a moment that seems as if our Annie dog had come back as an Italian sheep dog. I think she'd like that. I did.

    I'm distracted by an ancient Roman lighthouse, while Brad is completely overtaken by the speeding motorcycles rocketing past us near constantly. I'm not sure if he is more envious of their speed and road thrills or of the simple fact they're not walking😅.

    These roads are motorcycle heaven. S curves, hills, valleys, seaside. I think it used to be more bicycle, but at least today, motors rule.

    Today's hotel is the gorgeous Villa Rafaella, summer home of the Baroness Rafael la. A fabulous example of 19 th century villas.

    We've finally arrived somewhere early..and it's too early to check in! We find rest at a nearby cafe to wait, and I'm refreshed by a soda, followed by a campari and soda. The waitress glanced at me then said to Brad your wife has very kind eyes, I think she's a good person. What an amazing spontaneous thing to say, and I'm writing it so I don't forget on a bad day that there was this moment. Plus the Annie moment, so it's another win.

    Small blister notwithstanding.    Läs mer

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    A legendary breakfadt
    Nothing but seaSignage can be subtle21Pretty yellow daisies

    Day 2, San Foca to Otranto

    23 maj, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Rested and restored, we are escorted to breakfast by our fabulous host, Massimo. He was a police officer in his earlier life, but we think hospitality is his forte! The dishes he brings out, so much food - too much food. Then he brings foil wrap and indicates we can make lunch sandwiches for the road. Incredible....and for 2.50 each.

    Today is everything, we are amply rewarded for the hurculean hike of yesterday. The air is fresh, and the sound of waves accompanies gorgeous sea views.

    This is hiking how we wanted, trails, rocky pathways, and shade! It's cooler today which is much appreciated.

    We do go a little off piste admiring the views which improve at every turn, and taking so many pictures which really won't reflect the turquoise blue shade of the water.

    Passing by the Grotta Della Poesia, we are so captivated by the view out to sea that we don't even see the grotto! Not a worry, we will stay near enough soon to visit easily by car.

    Most of the trail winds along sea cliffs with enticing beaches all along the way. There are flowers of every color, buzzing bees, the scent of warmed pine, and all with the murmur of waves to accompany. It's a sensory path as much as a hike.

    Pine forest leads to a windy beach, where we can rest and watch the wind surfers. They speed along the waves racing along as gusts of wind launch them into the air. The agility and skill of these wave riders is impressive.

    Little yellow butterflies flit and flutter around us through the last bit of forest trail, and geckos scurry so quickly we see the movement before we see them dart away.

    Finally a stretch of road brings us into the edges of Otranto, and to a convenient B&B.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    First cammino sign!
    MarkerThings you notice in slow mo, these cacti have flowetsCommon sight, shepherd refuges maybe?Castle at AcayaFieldsWe followed this red backpack hiker most of the dayBig wild getaniumAt lastFeet finally happy!Beach near San Foca, so many inviting little beachesAverage hiking night room decor

    Day 1 Cammino del Salento

    22 maj, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Alternatively titled "what the hell were we thinking" 😅

    We thought some marathon walks around Paris and Lecce would be sufficient warm up for day 1. Let me tell you, it was not.

    Today we did about 26 km of trail, plus about 5 more km altogether. All under blistering, unrelenting sun. I knew this first day was long, but was really eager to walk out of Lecce and get to the shore.

    The outskirts of the city were the usual, graffiti tagged buildings everywhere, uneven pavement and potholes, unkempt boulevards. I don't think Italy or maybe Puglia has all that much money. Or if they do, it's not going into infrastructure.

    As we move fairly quickly out of the city, there are wildflower fields on both sides of our path, interspersed with olive tree groves.

    The day is still and hot, with rare sight breezes wafting the heady floral fragrance of banks of jasmine bushes or warm sage leaves, crushed underfoot.

    We have a few trail companions widely separated. It's nice to see this trail beginning to pick up.

    There's a bit of a congregation of hikers when we finally reach the brilliant sea. Baking sand soft underfoot, we are not the only ones dropping packs, tossing off shoes, and rushing to cool our feet in cool, clear waves.

    Sand flies busily defend their territory however, which forces a continuation we're a bit reluctant to begin. There's at least 9 more km to San Foca.

    We were definitely dragging as we finally trudged up to the hotel door. We'd had help from the hostel last night booking this trail affiliate. A warm welcome is best demonstrated by its host, who rushes out bottles of water and chilled sweet sparkling lemonade.

    Now I remember who we do this: because it feels so good when you stop 😂    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    A different toasting device
    Graceful branches display these delicate pink flowers. The sign says photograph, don't touch.Porto San Biaggio, the southern access to the old city1Cobblestone streets beckonRoman theatre, 2nd century AD, around emperor hadrians timeChurch of JesusStaircase entrance palazzo lofredo adornoMosaic on the 1 6th century lofredo adorno Noble résidenceSanta croce détail, he is bearing such a weightSanta CroceAmphitheatreA bottafumiero, I thinkDomed ceiling done in a Roman technique, the circles are the bases of vases. Structural integrity,Gelato time

    Lecce

    21 maj, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A slower morning, a slower day. We need it. Last night we bought a half roast chicken from a restaurant just closing, as we hadn't really eaten all day. He threw in the other half and some potatoes gratis....we must have looked hungry 😅

    The morning brought street sounds and cool air, with a repeated fragment of Italian song interspersing. After a hostel breakfast with a very cool toaster contraption and fortified with actual drip coffee, we head out to explore the old town of Lecce.

    It's a classically ancient European city, with honey coloured stone buildings and extravagant architecture. It's peaceful, no real crowds.

    The only way to really see inside all of the baroque churches and fine buildings is through an organized tour. We don't really want to do that, so just wander instead.

    It's a pleasant way to spend part of the day. We have a hiccup with the baggage storage confirmed months ago with the hostel. The desk staff don't know what the boss promised us. I'm sure it will sort out, but I'll be a little uneasy until that's confirmed.

    We pass by a place called Museo Archiologico Faggiola. It's intriguing to read the big poster of an article in the New York Times relating the story of a guy who bought an old building and just wanted to open a trattoria. What he opened was a real can of worms for himself, and an absolute treasure of a discovery for everyone else!

    Troublesome sewer issues required some digging, and layers revealed successive centuries of relics going back 2000 years. Mr Faggiola first enlisted the help of his sons to begin the digs, and tried to conceal the extent of the problem from his wife.....and the Italian government. Once the jig was up, the government graciously allowed him to keep funding the excavations, but they would be overseeing.

    After this fascinating diversion, we pass by the right gelato shop at the right time. I have lemon and fennel, a combination I can much recommend. Sweet and sharp citrus is the perfect counterpoint to creamy, licorice fennel. Brad is much more prosaic, tiramisu, mango, and salted peanut caramel.

    There's a supermercado right by the hostel. We procure baratelli and arrabiata for a fast easy dinner. Our luggage storage issue is resolved, and there's nothing left to do but check our backpacks one last time. And record a little video of the source of the Italian song....the gate plays it every time its opened 😅    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    The Popes apartments
    Anne of Austria bedchamberAn intricately inlaid floor.View from inside across a courtyardBallroom alcove, rest of the room being used for rehearsals of a presentationThrone room, with the classic Napoleonic bee emblem adorning the draperyNapoléon emerald coast was written in 1805, at his coronation as King of Italy and Milan1I was accosted by a giant meringue, while Brad tried the chausson napoleonClassic paris buildingBrad at Luxembourg gardensLuxembourg fountain flowersEmily's Paris apartmentGabriel's restaurant is a real place too

    Fontainebleau

    19 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    From the sweet simplicity of Giverny, we're now viewing the shamelessly extravagant excesses of a thousand years of French royalty.

    No wonder they were overthrown eventually. As one French assistant in a Marais shop observed wryly, everything costs more and more simply to give more profit to those at the top.

    It's clearly global. We notice a steep increase in prices in Paris, particularly restaurants and bars, and produce in grocery stores. Much like Canada in fact, although the quality is superior.

    Our visit to Fontainbleu coincides with the anniversary of a visit from Peter the Great of Russia in 1717. The visit was declared a great diplomatic success at the time, only for the tsars memoirs to later reveal his displeasure with French hospitality.

    Proving that in politics, history, and the human condition, some things really do never change.

    This hunting lodge turned palace dates back to around 1060. It's namesake freshwater spring, Fontaine - belle - eau Is still nearby. A modest beginning turned into a part time residence of royals, with a chapel consecrated by Thomas Becket and the birthplace of King Louis the XIII.

    Catherine de Medici lived here, widow of Henry II and mother to 3 future Kings of France. Popes visited, the French renaissance of art and sculpture was founded and flourished here.

    The flagrant displays of obscene wealth hit a bit differently these days. I will always appreciate the stunning beauty and artistic talent that existed, and marvel at the creativity and genius. I know much of this art work might not exist but for wealthy patrons.

    It all feels so dismissive of the struggles of their average citizen though. There's a board displayed in Napoleons apartments, with carved figures representing heads of state he wanted to manipulate. Apparently he would move his token people around his board and strategize how to get his way and consolidate power. Given modern events, we can only hope for another Waterloo.

    But, Fontainbleu was stunning.    Läs mer

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  • TompkinsTalesResenärPuglia via Paris
    Gare de Lyon in morning sun
    Monet studioDining roomIrisThis renovated water mill in Giverny is for saleA pop-up macaroon shop in st Lazare. Huge station with a 3 floor mall!Too many stairs!Today's random paris event...a roller derby? These events are as mystifying as they are entertainingGare St Lazare

    Giverny

    18 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    The first "great art" I remember being entranced by when I was young, was impressionist.

    Monets water lily series, the peacefull blurriness of the pastels, I still think are entrancing in a way that photographic renderings never will be.

    So I have wondered wistfully for many years, what it might be like to visit the source of his inspiration, his own garden. And here we are, Paris in May. It is time.

    The train départs from Gare St. Lazare, also a subject of a Monet series. In the foggy morning mists, it still bears some resemblance. Soon we are sweeping through green countryside of the Seine valley.

    We alight at the small station in the town of Vernon, some 5 km from Monets home. We chose a small tourist train to being us there. It's not a long walk, but to save time it seemed an ok choice.

    After patiently waiting in an already long line, we finally gain entrance. Exit through the gift shop is a well worn trope, to enter through it was my first discordant note.

    The gardens are a burst of extravagant colour, running riot within an organized structure of laid out beds. This is no formal French garden! Iris in more shades than I've ever seen, peonies just beginning to burst out and crowds of geraniums.

    We line up to go through his home and shuffle along in our queue. The entry is through his studio, luminous and lined floor to ceiling with sketches and paintings. Studies show various stages of his concept development on familiar works. He wouldn't have worked in here much, as he commonly painted outdoors. His dozen gardeners, in fact, were tasked with keeping it exactly as he wanted, even to wiping the water drops off the lily pads.

    The house is wondrously colourful, a yellow dining room is joyful and warm and inviting, and a blue, blue kitchen showcases a massive tiled stove. It's a home you can easily imagine a family laughing over dinner, or reading in the living room, and yet narrow squeaky wooden stairs to his bedroom are lined with works by Renoir, Cezanne, Sisley.

    We did yes, go to the framed bridge, and it's as glorious as you would expect. But for me, there is no peace here. Too many selfie taking tourists and crowding are detracting from the reason I wanted to come. I wanted to be in the presence of genius, to feel his energy here. And I don't. I am self aware enough to know I'm part of the problem. It's sad though.

    We stop by his grave to pay respect. A simple white cross is a surprisingly perfect memorial to a colourful man and life.    Läs mer

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