Altamura & Gravina

Hard to tear ourselves away from Matera - if I were to return, I'd stay longer. Soaking up the atmosphere of this peaceful ancient settlement is restorative to the soul, and I'm so glad we were here. There's an abandoned 15 th century castle just above our hotel, so we start our day with a walk around. We marvel at construction techniques that are enduring and elegant.

There are, as always, nearby points of interest. Puglia is endlessly diverting, and I'm satisfied that our decision to remain in only this area was the correct one. Leaving Matera is a bit trickier, traffic is busy. And we are looking for a very specific local item at a grocery. Yesterday I had a salad for lunch that featured a remarkable crunchy dried pepper that was so flavorful and unique. Our waiter said they are a very local specialty that Materans are very proud of. Called cruschi, for crunchy, it's a specific type. Sweet rather than hot. We're advised to not buy it in the tourist stores, but at a grocery.

Easier said than done! And you are always up against the clock, most of even the biggest name stores close from 130 to 5 or so. We have no luck in the couple we try in Matera, so we'll try our luck in Gravina.

One filter I wish I could add to Google maps would be avoid undersized streets that only micro-cars fit! In Gravina we squeeze through alleys holding our breath ( and folding in side mirrors) until we emerge onto a central plaza with parking and can exhale.

Landing in front of the imposing 12th century cathedral and museum complex is a perfect position. Yet the only church we enter is small and plain, a marked contrast to the Romanesque facade of the cathedral. This is the Chapel of Santa Maria Suffragio and is attended by one small quiet man who communicates his pride clearly, despite our lack of Italian. He gently touches my arm to lead me to the centre of honour: the crypt. Illuminating it with a small switch, we see the tomb of Duke Ferdinand III. It's an interesting, somewhat macabre chapel, with a theme of skeletons that's definitely unusual.

The highlight of Gravina is the Ponte Acquedotto, a 17th century bridge connecting the town on one side of the ravine with ancient cave churches in the other. This remarkable, gracefully arched and soaring bridge was the location of a famous scene in the James Bond film No Time To Die.

After crossing the bridge under intense sun and heat, it's time to chill with a gelato, then resume the cruschi pepper search. Patience pays off, in the 3rd store we find, and just before closing, too! Now we canwork our way out of the labyrinth in the cool comfort of air conditioning.

Only to promptly land in another tiny street maze in nearby Altamura 😊. There are several claims to fame in this pretty town, I'm interested in seeing the Forno Antico Santa Catarina....a bread oven in a bakery that has been in continuous use since 1391!

A large bread of the traditional altamura style treats on a table outside. This bread has a DOP designation, it must be made in the same way with the local natural products. Even the wood for the fire must be traditional, beech or chestnut. The recipe is generations old, and will be baked in a huge wood fired oven such as this.

Centuries ago, the women of the town would bring their loaves to be baked in the communal oven. Therefore, a stamp signifying the family name would be used to tell the loaves apart.

These huge loaves have a character tistic shape, like a folded over lump, or could have 4 peaks. Inside, an unusual golden yellow from the durum wheat.

Astounding to conceive that this very oven was in the same place, with the same function, so many centuries ago. This is the essence of Europe to me, that deep, deep connection to their own history. Not even that history is in the past, but that its still lived today.

And as I just read today in a post, someone said what they love most about Europe is that they'll "throw a whole ass festival for like, one vegetable".

I feel that, I respect that, and I am here for it!Read more