Cái Rang Floating Market

A hint of peachy rose on the horizon greets us this morning, as our quiet tour group reassembles at 6 am.

A short walk to the wharf is serenaded by twittering birds, and the universal sounds of a city waking up. I love early mornings, seeing real locals go about their business, the calmness. Steady whisking sounds as storefronts are swept clean, and bahn mi carts begin rolling through the streets. Soft music accompanies a group of white clad people as they glide in tandem through a series of rhythmic movements in the riverside park beside the wharf.

The river though, is bustling. Flat bottom sturdy wooden boats ply tourists in all directions, and big barges glide along sedately while small motorboats buzz around them.

The silty pale brown water of the Mekong brightens as the sun rises. Traffic increases as we near the market. Most are bigger boats. Justin recounts for us the history of how the market came to be. Long ago, the land was sparsely populated. Merchants would ply the river, making stops along the way, and might congregate at certain junctions.

The idea grew that one central point would be the most effective. By the early 1900s, the busy Cái Rang market was well on its way to being the biggest in Vietnam.

Merchants live on their boats for extended periods of time, returning to home villages to restock as needed. These days business is about 20% of what it used to be. Justin says he expects that in 20 years, they may be extinct. Competition on land and the pandemic contributed to the subsiding of this historic trade.

But some will never leave this way or life and livelihood. The floating markets are recognized as intangible national heritage, and the government contributes to the vendors. Helping them stay afloat, in every sense.

At least today we can enjoy the sounds and colors, watch the expert weaving and bobbing of boats. If a coffee or juice, a pineapple or a potato is wanted, a vendor is easily beckoned over. A quick tying on secures their boat to yours to complete the transaction.

We are treated to fresh pineapple spears, sprinkled with chili salt, to savour on the way back down river. Salty sweet fruit, fresh air, sunshine, and the occasional light spray of water combine and create a perfectly unique daybreak excursion.Read more