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Vietnam venture

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    🇻🇳 Cần Thơ, Vietnam
    TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Pool view at night
    Qatar airways has these entertainment options. Great airlineCooking our meal at the tableI mean, this is a really hard language

    Cambodia, Full Circle

    January 20 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    A minor hiccup leaving Vietnam: who knew we needed the entry visa to exit! An unsmiling, terribly business-like border agent simply held up his hand "no" when we tried to show on our phones that we had it. Ultimately, another agent came and sorted us out, and I was just incredibly relieved we'd allowed enough time!

    Shortest flight I've ever done, 25 minutes brings us back to Phnomh Penh to close out our trip. And although 3 days of trying to work with Booking.com to arrange their free hotel pickup haven't succeeded, we have some confidence now in how it all works. Hop on the airport bus for 50 cents, then call a Grab from bus stop to hotel. $7, all in.

    Which is good, we're splurging on the hotel. Chaiya Palace has a tall, cool marble lobby, and they wouldn't dream of you holding your own door. We're ushered up a (glass!) elevator to our luxurious room. This isn't our real world, but we like it here!

    Everywhere in Cambodia, people perform the sampaya, a respectful greeting with hands pressed together in a prayer like way, at chest level, with a slight incline of the head. It's a wonderful gesture that conveys gratitude, courtesy, and regard all at once.

    Tonight we go to the rooftop to admire the infinity pool with the knee weakening view over the city, then out to find dinner.

    A nearby restaurant specializes in shark - sometimes google translate BEFORE you sit down would be a good idea - but luckily another dish is more likely palatable. Rough translation was "cow hoofs come over the mountain". 😂

    The waiter did indeed bring a plate of wafer thin beef and a tower of greenery. He showed us how to use the inventive domed soup pot, where we could cook the meat while the vegetables simmered in broth.

    Then a short walk back to the hotel, a ride up an elevator somewhat easier to look out of on the journey at nighttime, and we are done!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Pretty in pink
    A logging boat!Bigger flat bottom boatA cheerful vendor1Steam rises from her cooking pot as she navigatesThe making of rice noodles, on a barge factory on the riverJustin shows us how the machine, essentially a pasta machine, shreds the rounds into strandsBring back the dried fruit 😂Overseeing the busy River from the bargeThat's a real wood fire, on a wooden boat. Good thing they're afloat 😊Pineapples stored inside a live aboardBrad would absolutely bonk his head multiple times per day

    Cái Rang Floating Market

    January 18 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A hint of peachy rose on the horizon greets us this morning, as our quiet tour group reassembles at 6 am.

    A short walk to the wharf is serenaded by twittering birds, and the universal sounds of a city waking up. I love early mornings, seeing real locals go about their business, the calmness. Steady whisking sounds as storefronts are swept clean, and bahn mi carts begin rolling through the streets. Soft music accompanies a group of white clad people as they glide in tandem through a series of rhythmic movements in the riverside park beside the wharf.

    The river though, is bustling. Flat bottom sturdy wooden boats ply tourists in all directions, and big barges glide along sedately while small motorboats buzz around them.

    The silty pale brown water of the Mekong brightens as the sun rises. Traffic increases as we near the market. Most are bigger boats. Justin recounts for us the history of how the market came to be. Long ago, the land was sparsely populated. Merchants would ply the river, making stops along the way, and might congregate at certain junctions.

    The idea grew that one central point would be the most effective. By the early 1900s, the busy Cái Rang market was well on its way to being the biggest in Vietnam.

    Merchants live on their boats for extended periods of time, returning to home villages to restock as needed. These days business is about 20% of what it used to be. Justin says he expects that in 20 years, they may be extinct. Competition on land and the pandemic contributed to the subsiding of this historic trade.

    But some will never leave this way or life and livelihood. The floating markets are recognized as intangible national heritage, and the government contributes to the vendors. Helping them stay afloat, in every sense.

    At least today we can enjoy the sounds and colors, watch the expert weaving and bobbing of boats. If a coffee or juice, a pineapple or a potato is wanted, a vendor is easily beckoned over. A quick tying on secures their boat to yours to complete the transaction.

    We are treated to fresh pineapple spears, sprinkled with chili salt, to savour on the way back down river. Salty sweet fruit, fresh air, sunshine, and the occasional light spray of water combine and create a perfectly unique daybreak excursion.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Mail scooter
    Undersea pearl hunters find many sunken treasuresCoffee stand or "ça phe" 10,000 for a coffee is about 50 centsEveryone uses these broomsBrad is going to try a coconut2Brad does not like coconutSunset TownSunset Town fits a bit of Spanish Gaudi inTown is fake, but these flowers are legit!Oh no, just no.Intriguing, little packets for travel shampoo, etc. 75 cents for about 20Piles of coconuts are ubiquitousMain street shops in An ThoiRambutan fruit, like a little jelly insideSorry Bourdain, but I had my best bahn mi from hereKhem BeachBrad got to play a bit of volleyballOkei Bistro goodwill ambassador himselfPearl store & museum, interesting visit

    Farewell Phu Quoc

    January 17 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We're flying back to Ho Chi Minh instead of spending extra days on this island.

    There are those instagrammable spots here, some picturesque beaches. But it feels that every pretty scene is just a facade.

    I had wanted to go to Starfish Beach, for example. Once here though, we discovered locals take the native red starfish that are sprinkled on many beaches - and bring them to one remote place. Charge tourists to access it. But worst, the starfish die. They're mishandled, abused, for pretty pictures.

    And the island feels like this to me. Soulless. Amazing adventure parks, but that's not really our thing.

    We went to Sunset Town just to see it. It's packed with tourists in this pretend Italian /French /Greek town. The concept is huge and well executed. It was an ambitious project and they delivered on it. There's no real history here at all, and certainly no real sense of this country. But it's clean, true to concept for the most part, and I think they do really incredible shows here.

    Canopies of trees, coconut palms, Jack fruit, teak - are being clear cut to build more resorts. The most appealing beaches are roped off to the public, access controlled by resorts.

    I liked some parts here very much. Palm fringed beaches, golden sand and brilliant sunsets are still real. Brilliant flowers still tumble decoratively over shacks and farms and gas statins and homes with abandon. The North island so far remains less developed.

    I love that they decommissioned an airport and turned the runways into highways.

    The always smiling, always helpful, almost one man show at our local restaurant.

    The charming humour of the tour guide at the pepper plantation.

    But I leave with a bit of relief, and a lingering guilt. There's no environmental protection at all. Garbage everywhere, drains and sewers discharge right into the ocean in places. Peoples way of life in their beautiful home is being destroyed by big corporations, and us going there is contributory.

    I wish I felt better about it. The idyllic tropical paradise described to us many years ago no longer exists. They literally paved paradise here.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Those 3 dots upper left? Window washers. In case you think your job is hard!
    These intrigue me, but I'm scared of the insides😅Street marketAlso market, streets are sharedCity Hall at nightThese bricks glow red or green, for cross/don't crossSuch a colorful city at nightCathedral near usTypical street corner, so French, but tiny seatsThat's a floral shop - on a scootetBen Than Market. Tourist trap, but fun. Offer at least 50% less than asking1Walking Street is insane, party central.3Cashew chickenScooter guys just chillingEqual opportunity exploitation : male go go dancer on Walking Street.

    Ho Chi Minh City

    January 17 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Paris is a "coup de foudre" - a thunderbolt, love at first sight - but Saigon is more like a shoe that doesnt fit quite right at first. It rubs at you a bit, irritates you, drowns you in noise and flashiness and honking.

    But it grows on you, in the back of your mind, working some kind of magic. We're back because it's the hub. If you're going anywhere, you're leaving from here, or else logistics and budgets get blown away.

    And then, we find....we're happy to be back! This city breathes and pulses, and draws you in. Sights and sounds you'll never see anywhere else:

    Rows of construction workers perched on tiny colourful stools

    A worker carefully sweeping the street in front of a hotel with wide broom...directly under a parked car.

    Men using their scooters like recliners, resting comfortably against the handlebars.

    Young girls everywhere, posing in their best ao Dai, traditional Vietnamese dress for women. It's apparently customary at New Years to dress in your finest and take photos at landmark locations. This would normally annoy me, to be honest, but they are just so young, so pretty, so animated. Surely as a once annual event, we can enjoy their careful posing.

    And some of what you don't see. You can buy cigarettes, beer, alcohol from a little stand, or even from someone with a little square of sidewalk set up with their goods. But we don't see drugs, anywhere. I'm sure they're somewhere, but here in the main district 1, the tourism centre....nothing. Or the other 2 or 3 districts we've seen.

    We feel safe, even over uncertain paving, even where its dark. Because people here are incredibly friendly. We've been given a corkscrew, because the vendor didn't have one to sell us. He ran across the street, can't back smiling with one in hand, and refused payment.

    At a souvenir shop, the sales associate told me to pick out a magnet, for free, after we'd already paid. Insisted I should have it as a souvenir.

    That's the takeaway for us. That a city twice the size of Vancouver feels both bigger and smaller at once. Urban amenities offered by people with small town friendliness.

    What's not to like about that!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    2Proof of pepper farm visit 😀
    Pepper treeA lone pineapple appears...actually they're always singlePotato tree. Really a fruit, but they call it thatDrying peppers and saltsChili saltLoofah, eat when small, scrubbies when bigAll colorsStunner of a hibiscusRan into some trafficGas is about 1 CAD per litreBrad said this road looks like a runway. Turns out it is, the old airport was hereFruit markets look so goodOpen air meat markets not as good. Lots of fish, too1Pina coladas here, sounds like getting caught in the rain is happening back homeComing in low to the new airportFires, everywhere, so casual

    Visiting a Pepper Farm

    January 13 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    An overcast morning indicates a change in our plans for another beach day. I'm interested in the pepper plantations, so we're going looking for one. Easier said than done, I struggle with finding places and information on this island. Most of what you need is visible, but key metrics will be missing, like addresses, and google maps just gives the electronic equivalent of a shrug.

    Perseverance pays off, and the farm that was not on the map when we headed west suddenly appears. We sign on for a lunch and a tour, and are served a delicious caramelized pork and a lemongrass spiced marinated tuna, along with drinks and the classic Vietnamese pancake dessert.

    Our guide Tran is informative and entertaining as he shows us all the plants on the farm. The pepper grows on trees that are limited to 3 meters in height, to increase production. You can eat the little green berries fresh....they are EXTREMELY peppery 😂.

    Then they are dried, first in open air on trays, then finished by commercial dryer. We get to taste cinnamon leaves, also grown here. The dry leaves smell strongly of cinnamon when crumpled in your hand, and the pieces have a sweet, mildly spicy flavor when chewed.

    The tour continues with Tran making a few risque jokes, such as bananas and long peppers being especially good for men. Their upright growth patterns are said to have.....similar organic effects on the males😅.

    Vietnam is one of the worlds biggest exporters of pepper, but they don't really use it much in their own cooking. Locals prefer chili for flavoring, Tran says. He also said pepper was always basic black, and it was the French who made it all complicated with red, pink, green and white.

    We're given a flavorful cool drink to wrap up. A tea made with red pepper, long pepper, cinnamon and honey. I definitely want to recreate this at home!

    Riding back the sky feels low, and the air is heavy with the scent of fires. Little charcoal braziers for cooking are set up and fragrant aromas whip past our noses as we motor by. It's quite extraordinary, an empty sidewalk in the morning will have a food cart running and little plastic chairs and tables will be all set up in the evening.

    Later, we return to our new favorite restaurant. Further down the table, the couple seated there recognize Brad from the breakfast buffet: he was bringing me back a giant cup of coffee. Since it's served in tiny glass cups I think the mug stood out! ( the mug is petty larceny, I brought it back from the beach bar the first night - I will return it).

    Marie and Dick are from Stockholm, and we have a very enjoyable dinner conversation. Hilariously, it turns out they are across the hall from us in this near deserted hotel.

    We're both waiting for our laundry to be returned, hopefully before we leave 😊. An agreement is reached: if there's any mixup, we just all have new clothes!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Khem Beach
    Every day ends beautifullyOutdoor meat vendor in An ThoiCoral park, fingernail IslandsRoaring timbers!1Uh oh, what did I commit to?Oh, ok😊Kiss BridgeQuotes line the bridge walls in multiple languagesColiseum cable car garageIce Jungle, in our complex. So pretty with lights and musicA bahn mi standWhite jacket guy is the traffic control. I'd need a different white jacket if I tried! 😂In the water park

    Beach days and busy days

    January 11 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We've spent one day at the gorgeous Khem Beach, which was easily reachable on our little scooter. Traffic is light, but mayhem nonetheless. There are just no rules, oncoming traffic in your lane and abrupt changes by people in front of you are common!

    A bigger main road lined with shops and businesses gives way to tiny lanes with homes and market stalls on both sides. Faded sheets and tarps flutter in the breeze, and the brilliance of local flowers provides a glorious contrast.

    Khem Beach is a beauty. Clubs line the arch of the Bay, providing the perfect vibe but you can easily just drop your towel on the sand too. Music is more background and distant. It's relaxing to just swim, read, repeat. We ignore the expensive beach club restaurants and walk a block away for bahn mi for lunch. These little French baguette, Vietnamese meat and sauce filled sandwiches are perfect, and about $1.50.

    Another day, another sunset, and we are rested and ready for our morning tour pickup the next day. We will stop at a couple of islands, snorkel, visit the aquatic park, then travel by cable car back to the mainland Sunset Town for the famous "Kiss Bridge" and a short show.

    A lot to pack in! Our tour group includes a Korean family of 4 that are gentle and calm, and a quartet of obnoxious young men as their counterpoint. I love watching this family interact all day, they're having so much fun with their kids. The quartet ignores safety rules, throw orange peels on the boat deck, are loud, and strip unabashed to their underwear to snorkel. I feel for the tour guides. There's a lot of different languages but very little English. We're pretty isolated.

    So, the island is very pretty, the snorkelling disappointing. Still on the water, still in the sun, still good! A massive lunch buffet is well appreciated by this point, and we eat and chat with a couple from Malmo, Sweden. They're headed to the roller coaster next. We hadn't known the park had one!

    They have the Roaring Timbers, 32 meters of wooden G force torture 😊. It's barely any wait at all, and Brad is on his way up to a steep drop. How anyone does this for fun is beyond me! The park is huge, you could easily spend the day here. But we're moved along to the cable car.

    My prior eagerness for the experience is diluted at the first launch point. The point where the cables creak along with your full cabin - wait, this must be really heavy - immediately slant steeply uphill....and then launch you, over the treetops, to a dizzying view of turquoise blue sea. The mainland is almost 8km away. My nerves calm as we sail over ships, our shadow crossing their wake. The ride is smooth, even over the transiting towers. I checked on this, it's Austrian and Swiss engineered which is reassuring.

    The car lands in Sunset Town, in a pseudo Roman coliseum type building. This whole town is built as a pretend Mediterranean, Italian and French staged scene. It's not our taste, but it's well done and apparently extremely popular with Phu Quocs main tourism sectors of Asia and Russia.

    And here, from the famed Kiss Bridge, which has two gently sloping sections that almost but not quite meet, we see the sunset show. Performances by jet ski and small motor boats are the backdrop to the fly board show. These water jet pack propelled athletes are incredibly acrobatic performers. Another moment of patriotic pride, as the announcer presents the Canadian fly board champion is in tonight's show, Geoff Hulet.

    Its been a day! The bus ride home is much quieter, as tired out tourists are returned to their hotels. A take out salad in front of the TV is the cap on our day!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    1Sunsets, never the same twice
    These flowering trees line the walkway to the pool and restaurantBrad fueling up the road warrior!Sao Beach2Sao BeachRoadside statues2Many canalsPit stop at a little storeIn so many ways, French influence is clear.A brilliant show down a dusty side roadWater buffalo?2Should I feel bad that I used the food setting on my phone to take this?Pineapple Beach, a northern public beachLeft side, above the sign: a green light esp. for motos3Us at Sao Beach

    A Ride on the Wild Side

    January 9 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We decided this morning to rent a scooter and look around a bit. That plan almost went sideways when Brad took a tumble down a flight of stairs at the hotel! He's ok, bumps, scrapes and a couple bruises. Really lucky, actually.

    Our hotel is wild in its own way. It's in a partially built massive development, so it's like a ghost town. The listing for this place was largely a work of fiction. The most egregious lie of all to me was beach proximity...the 250 yard distance is actually over a km. This sort of thing is apparently typical of the island. Bait and switch hotel reservation scams are so common the government is enacting legislation later this month, before its tourism reputation is indelibly tarnished.

    We've decided to remain in place. The staff are attentive and helpful, and there are enough benefits. Renting a scooter will give us independent access to explore anyway. The hotel associate that arranged the rental was curiously jubilant about the deal. Smiles, some back pats and even a half hug concluded the transaction...have we just bought this scooter, I wondered?

    First stop one of the many famous tropical beaches of Phu Quoc, Sao Beach. It's everything a beach should be, turquoise water, light golden powdery sand. Black rocks and red starfish provide contrast. Piles of washed up trash denote the tide line. It's sad, there is very little evidence of any real environmental concern.

    We'll come back here, or find another beach, for a beach day tomorrow. Today we leisurely scoot up the east side, and then much more rapid return down the middle main road to our south end hotel. There's lots to see along the way. Not tourist infrastructure, more faded signs, dark store and home fronts. Dogs, lethargic in the afternoon heat, slowly cross the road and occasional other wandering tourists buzz by. Several small inlets or canals are crossed by small bridges with flat metal sheet panels creating the base. They rattle and crash when driven over. It's otherwise peaceful though.

    There are a few restaurants and stores in our complex. Actually there are many signs and storefronts, but they are mostly dark and silent. The main street is well lit up, and we choose a busier looking corner restaurant. Staffed by one older man for front of house, and one woman cooking, the old adage comes to mind: fast, cheap, or good, pick any 2 of 3. We nailed this one - it wasn't fast 😅. But his demeanor so made up for it. Pleasant, smiling, and shuffling in his croc shoes managing to be everywhere. I had a most excellent Hanoi pork pho. I could eat this every day....actually I probably have!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Traffic all around our Grab taxi
    Very typical narrow buildingSo many motos !Café ApartmentsBook Street statueWar Remnants poignant quoteMassive American chopperOrchids in Tao Dan ParkBen Thanh Market is an iconic, now tourist marketRiverview apartmentsCapybaras at the Kapi CafeLandmark 81 skyscraper dominates night sceneNice tea display at Saigon CentreMétro, clean well staffed with helpful aides, 37 cents to rideCoconut vendor

    Saigon Redux

    January 6 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    On a damp, overcast morning we are bidding farewell to Hue. Fingers crossed that the Vietjet flight I booked on my phone will deliver us as promised, back in Saigon in a mere 1 hr 25 min.

    A minor delay, but we are soon above the clouds and swiftly retracing our path back to the heaving chaos that is Ho Chi Minh City. The city goes by both names, I think I prefer Saigon. Particularly after our DMZ tour and learning how the North

    Traffic in this city is like a living organism, it expands, contracts, rushes like blood through veins. The sheer wall of people on wheels with stray pedestrians is incredible.

    We've got a couple of days to wander and get the feel of the city. It truly is immense and alive. If you don't learn quickly how to immerse yourself in this river of traffic, you'll be paralyzed in place. But it takes courage to plunge in! I get used to looking for gaps and openings, learn to trust that drivers will weave around me. But I'll never be accustomed to traffic roaring directly at me!

    First things first, we take the brand new metro to the hotel to pick up Brad's wallet. How incredible, it's complete, sealed and his identity verified before being returned. We leave a substantial tip for the driver and hotel staff. I'm not sure there's anywhere else on earth this would have worked out this way.

    A few steps away are the famous Cafe Apartments. I'm fascinated by this concept. Cafes, bars, boutiques, all over multiple stories. We opt for stairs over the paid elevator and find a 3rd floor cafe to enjoy a coconut coffee on the balcony.

    Through parks and thronged streets, we pass famous buildings: Opera house, Post Office. Book Street. Next stop is the War Remnants Museum.

    This is a sombre place. Some rooms, such as War Crimes and Agent Orange, could make you weep. Man's inhumanity is on full display. It's awful. It's hard. It's necessary.

    A different perspective entirely from our DMZ tour. History is so often told from the winners side that knowing the truths is never easy. There's another room here titled "War Truths" I'm skeptical. Truly sobering are posted quotes, from Nuremberg, from American political pacifists. The parallels are obvious and ominous.

    We need a reset, a walk to the river for a cruise on the water bus. A mostly foiled attempt to visit the famed Kapi Café. It's hard to find, and too close to closing when we arrive.

    We also find the Jade Pagoda, a perfumed dark wood sculpted place of worship. This hundred year old Buddhist temple is an oasis famously visited by Barack Obama. Tomorrow is actually the day of birth of the Jade Emperor, so offerings are beginning to grow as the faithful come to pray for health prosperity and happiness.

    And for us, after just over 40,000 steps in 2 days, it's time for a luxury spa experience!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler

    DMZ

    January 5 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    From ancient history to modern, today's plan is a guided tour of the DMZ. Driver Tuan and tour guide Ngoc welcome guests as we begin our long day. Today's points of interest are fair distances apart, we'll be spending a lot of time on the road.

    Ngoc is an interesting and engaging guide. The best attribute of a guide is to make you feel and understand the people and times they describe and Ngoc is very good at this. Our scenic drive passes quickly. Hard to believe this peaceful green countryside was one of the most heavily bombed areas during the war.

    Long Hung church is our first stop. In 1972, the site of an 81 day battle, North Vietnamese against American supported South Vietnamese. The entire facade is deeply, thoroughly pitted with bullet holes, and there is tremendous damage within as well. The peace lilies planted in front seem a very hopeful symbol.

    Ngoc tells us that Vietnam was attempted to be occupied for over 1000 years by the Chinese, 100 years by the French, and American involvement for decades - but they have remained. They are proud, patriotic, and willing to fight for their country. But mostly, they just want peace.

    We carry on to the Quang Thi citadel, a memorial to the many losses during the Easter offensive in 1972. The Rockpile, tallest point close to the DMZ around the 17th parallel divide between North and South. It's an army resupply point, reachable only by helicopter.

    And the Khe Sanh Combat Base, a former U. S. Marine Corp outpost. The purpose was to monitor the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a resupply trail from North to South, and to attempt to block supply lines. There was a 77 day siege here, a brutal attack on the marines by North Vietnamese. Ngoc tells us how the newly arriving American service members couldn't comprehend an enemy they couldn't see.

    He tells us how young North Vietnamese were so thoroughly indoctrinated by Ho Chi Minh communist propaganda that they would volunteer for service. They would put stones into their pockets to increase their weight, in order to be accepted into the army, which would bring security to their families and honour to the household.

    I am impressed with the humanity Ngoc conveys. The reuinified Vietnam still has deep systemic differences, capitalism in the south, communist to the north. There is understanding of the issues and pressures on the northerners, which seems so healing. It's not the us vers them polarization.

    We proceed to the Hien Luong Bridge over the Ben Hai River, which divided North and south along the 17th parallel, and end the tour at the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

    This underground village was built to protect civilians from near constant bombing. A full town, with meeting room and maternity hospital is here. The three levels go deep. Amazingly, the design was created by a teenager. It's incredibly narrow and low. Damp and dark, it's surreal to understand people needed to shelter here. Ngoc has told us that his parents in law are from the area, and they talk of running to the bomb craters after detonation, believing the Americans don't bomb twice in the same spot, so it was safest.

    The day has been a lot. Reflecting on the drive back, I realize I have so much more understanding of the background of the war, the one the Vietnamese refer to as the American War. The resilience of these people is extraordinary, and I think bending but not breaking is their ultimate strength.

    I'm not naïve to the atrocities of war on all sides, but those aspects are so easily accessed through media. Deeper understanding through personal stories resonates differently.

    Ngoc mentioned the anger of the American population led to their eventual withdrawal. Horrific images in the media shocked the people into pressuring their president to end their involvement. We can only hope that energy still exists there today.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Meridian Gate, the main southern entrance
    1Koi in the Imperial gardens areaThai Hoà Palace - the Throne Palace. All gold inside, 3 steps up to the throneThese stone markers outside the Throne Palace showed courtiers where to standApricot tree mosaicTemple GateGate guard, a lion sculptureTemple courtyardI love him 😊 a guardian foo dog, known as a ShishiA courtyardA gate among flowers1Main temple gate1Row of bonsaiThe Queen Mother's private residenceStone railings2Kien Trung PalacePalace entryBonsai garden view

    Impérial city of Hue

    January 4 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today we have a walking tour of the Imperial City, a 2 century old complex that was the home of the final dynasty of Nguyen. Their capital city of Hue lasted from the first emperor until the 13th, when Bao Dai abdicated.

    There is not much left of the city. It's being excavated and restored after massive damage from war and climate. The Tet Offensive in 1968 was one significant cause of damage. We have met our guide at the 9 cannons, and she gives us a brief overview of the importance of numbers in Vietnamese culture. We will see these numerical themes repeated as we tour. The 9 from 9 cannons signifies eternity and longetivity.

    Confusingly for us, the 9 cannons are divided into 4 and 5. Five for the 5 elements ( fire, metal, wood, metal, earth). The 4 we're told, is very unlucky so that remains unclear. As we walk through the geometrically laid out city, we note the repetition of 3. 3 steps to enter, 3 levels of building.

    Within the moat and wall surrounding the Imperial City is the Forbidden City, where only the emperor and his family could enter. That family could grow to incredible size. The emperor Minh Mang had over 500 wives, and over 100 children!

    As we move further into the complex we approach the forbidden city. An imposing gate has an entry reserved for the emperor only. Surprisingly all gates and doors glide sideways as opposed to the more expected western vertical.

    The existence of gardens are visible, and remnants of the thousands of homes, temples, and buildings that were here.

    The home of the empress mother is notable for the clearly French influenced architecture, and the star of the site glitters in the sun as we come to the Kien Trung Palace. This is the reconstruction of the palace of the last 2 emperors.

    The sun picks up all the jewel colors of the broken China used to mosaic the exteriors. It's eye-catching. I'm curious if China is purchased and broken on purpose, or created first then broken. But I don't think our guide understands my question.

    She has been a good guide, but unfortunately soft spoken. Again it's the little details she adds that are most interesting, such as the modern personal anecdote about recent flooding. She explains the cost of vegetables sky rocketed due to scarcity, so everyone was living on noodles and meat!

    We've met an Aussie couple on the tour, who inspired such Canadian pride in me. The husband remarked ah you've got Carney there now, he's a good 'un. Smart guy.

    We have made the barest of fingertip dents into the riches and complexities of Vietnamese culture. I'm fascinated, and will be researching more.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Da Nang
    Back towards Da NangForwards to HueMilitary postDangerous area = 10 ft drop into brick pit.If you know Brad, you know he found a cat!Look, a little dish of warm water to keep coffee hot!Topof the passRAIN!

    The Way to Hue

    January 3 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Is over the Hai Van Pass. This misty, twisting scenic pass was even featured in Top Gear, and we can easily see why. Hai Van means "ocean cloud" in Vietnamese, and streams of white ribbon around us as we climb.

    Soon after Da Nang, the road rises rapidly. Hairpin turns reveal the sweep of Da Nangs My An beach far below in no time.

    It would be challenging in the extreme to try drive this, we have a car and driver - Tuey? - arranged from Hoi An. He is calm and expertly handles the vehicle. He has few English words, enough to point out highlights in single bursts: Da Nang. Viewpoint. Pass.

    The normal cheerful traffic weaving we've seen in Vietnam is nowhere to be seen here!

    The pass was a dividing point between kingdoms in the 1300s. It still can divide the weather. We had sun and clouds breaks on the way up, then a cool low wind at the top, followed by an absolute torrent of rain on the way down.

    At the top, we pause for a salt coffee and a stretch, and a climb around the old military fortress occupying the commanding views.

    Through the rain and then a final push onwards, as growing traffic indicates we are entering the ancient city of Hue.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler

    Misc Vietnam

    January 3 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Maison da nang french mixed in

    New flags? Creases often evident

    Elegant touches to prosaic, napkins floated into baskets

    But dirty plastic flowers on train

    Parallel parking a bus

    Iconic French domed red and white mileage markersRead more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    View from above2Our gaudy boatColorful glowsJapanese Bridge

    Hoi An New Moon Lantern Festival

    January 2 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Our last night in Hoi An is the one we came for, the New Moon Lantern Festival. It's always held on the date of the new Moon. This year that's only 2 days after New Years.

    This lengthy holiday has brought crowds, and the locals are cheerful as flocks of tourists throng the streets and shops. We're only a 5 minute walk away from the main area, and it's quiet as soon as we leave. Vendors offer happy hour, happy new year, good luck pricing on everything.

    New Moon offering tables are outside everywhere, on our hotels patio, at restaurants and private homes. The small tables hold fruits and flowers as offerings, and incense sticks drift musky trails heavenwards.

    New Moon is really significant in Buddhist culture. People honour ancestors, pray for prosperity, release negativity and welcome positivity.

    Its visually and spiritually stunning to experience lanterns strung everywhere, and watch the colourful glows emerge as dusk falls. We walk through the old town area around the river, and it's far less crowded than New Years was.

    We're ensconced in front row seats on the second floor of a riverside bar cafe and chatting to our neighbours as we wait for the 8pm electric light turn off that is part of the festival. Sadly, that never happens. Indeed nothing else different really does. Maybe it's too close to the last holiday?

    Anyway, I am still hoping for a boat ride, which is easily enough arranged. Only once Brad has handed over payment beside a boat launch area, a young man is summoned. He takes off down the road at a rapid pace and we have to rush to not lose him. He isn't turning back to check on us either! He gestures towards a boat...this is us.

    My heart sinks. This, this big clunky flat bottom boat, with gaudy electric lanterns, this isn't the graceful, glowing water craft I saw myself in at all! And yet. It's on me. They did not misrepresent as much as we didn't confirm. I know better! So, a little ruefully, we make the most of it. Still on the dark Thu Bon river with rainbow orbs all around us. Still tiny flamed paper lanterns bravely dip and dance around the boats. Still good.

    Even so, once back on land, I purchase one more paper lantern. This one we place gently, respectfully, from the riverside, and watch its little flame until it drifts out of sight.

    And go home.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    The language is just so different
    Hotel koi pondHoi an is known for rapid personal tailoring, I love this store nameLegit traffic guidelinesA very creepy Japanese... Guard cat?We forget: how sobering this is still a thingManual paint scraping, such hard workTake time to stop and photograph the butterfliesReal ginger lime tea, with a surprise plum for sweetnessBrad got a $1 shave hereThe beach!Bike parking involves much shuffling if you got here firstWe like this treeEvening fishingThe Japanese bridge (those are not the Instagrammer)Such a cool store, was a soap factory under the French, a maternity hospital, now specialty storeRecent flooding is a bit evident, surprisingly little. What a cleanup job they've done!

    Hội An Ward

    January 1 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Anthony Bourdain famously said travel isn't always pretty, it isn't always comfortable. He was so right, I think, as I am sitting in on a definitely pretty patio. But comfortable, not so much. A kings banquet of a buffet breakfast is ours for the taking, but my stomach still says no. Sigh. Maybe by later.

    ABBAs Happy New Year wafts around with the breeze this am, and we heard ABBA from numerous bars last night as well. Hoi An appears firmly in my Gen X musical preferences. But it hits almost jarringly, this blend of familiar and foreign: the juxtaposition of Christmas trees with palm trees, Mr Bean as a night club icon.

    We are taking the day today to be where we are. There are many interesting and exciting attractions near us, but we are consciously trying to let that "We want to see it all" mentality go. So a slow stroll through the old town, a cappacino and tea on a rooftop bar balcony. Enjoying pushbike drivers politely, firmly, calling out "Beep, beep" to be let through growing crowds.

    Time to rent a scooter, and drive the 5 km to the beach. An afternoon reading in the sun and a bit of wave surfing seems to be all I needed for recovery, as I finally left with an appetite!

    The drive back was harrowing, as google was unaware of a night market we were not exactly allowed to drive through. But we made it. Vietnamese appear to take everything in stride. Slow drivers, fast ones, erratic ones, all are given equal right to be where they feel they need to. I wonder if our traffic might actually run better this way? Take away the arrogance, the need to be first, who knows.

    So I did have 2 minor moments of not taking crap anymore today. In the old town daytime visit, a vendor had a rack of canvas bags with prints. And the one on the front was that ridiculous fake Trump "assassination" pic. I said hell no, crossed the street, and mixed it behind others. Hilariously the others were Putin and Kim Jong Il, so I guess the store sorted by category.

    The other was the evening stroll. Across the wooden Japanese bridge, suddenly a pit lamp flood light! Seems what I believe was an Instagrammer was taking over the scene for a private photo shoot. People were respecting their "boundaries". Me not quite as much. I got my shot, and I think ruined a couple of theirs. Cest la vie.

    Its possible I'm not done relaxing yet😂    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Rice fields were plentiful along the train route
    View from hotel in Hoi AnOld town Hoi AnThese lit up lantern boats are magicalMr beans was absolutely the rocking place to be!A youth dance competition

    Happy New Year from Hoi An

    December 31, 2025 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well, it's been a journey in many aspects to get here!

    I ended up missing out on Ho Chi Minh entirely, when I was awakened in the middle of the night with an acute stomach bug. We were due to check out before our sleeper train to Hoi An that evening, but I was too weak to even think of doing anything. The hotel found us another tiny room I could stay in until time to leave for the train.

    So Brad explored a little bit, brought me back some medications, and my day passed in a blur. The hotel called a GRAB for us and we slowly, cautiously crept through traffic to the train station. We had alloted a generous amount of time to get there early, but city traffic intervened. Edging a car through fleets of criss crossing motorcycles and random pedestrians, not to mention the frequency of other cars coming straight at you from any and all sides - is a process that takes time!

    Once there, we jumped out, and inside the train station were directed to the "VIP" lounge. For about a dollar, you get a seat and a bottle of water and notification when your train is due. And there's no choice, the door to the platform is securely locked.

    When Brad goes to pay the 20,000 dong charge: horror! His wallet has been left in the GRAB car! Nothing can be done, the train is loading for departure.

    So we board our little compartment, which ends up being just us in it. And start trying to notify banks etc. I try emailing the hotel thinking they may have a record of the car. In a very short time, I receive a message from the hotel, the driver has returned the wallet to them! Faith in humanity restored, massive relief.

    Im still listless, tired. Dehydration is no joke, and I sleep the majority of our 935 km, 16 hour journey.

    So here we are in Hoi An, New Years Eve. The town is busy, vibrant, and more colorful in person than I can believe. The iconic lanterns decorate everything in all sizes, and are lit up, floating on boats down the river. I'm glad we have at least 3 days here. I'm not quite bounced back enough to do much, but I'm sure I'll start 2026 with new energy!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    Phnom Penh bus station
    A nice sentiment on the pastry they gave usRoadside viewsThe borderThe border lineupMekong RiverHo Chi Minh flying bike squadsSo pretty, mango sticky rice, yum!Mr Ho Chi Minh himselfCity Hall, or the Peoples Committee Building as its known2Me in a Christmas décoration outside a very high end mall

    Highway 1 to Ho Chi Minh

    December 29, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our early morning sees us onto the bus for Vietnam. It appears helter skelter at first, but it's highly organized. Soon we are coasting through suburbs, and then fields.

    Roadside restaurants line the route, tarped shelters with small plastic chairs, and bikes or scooters with trays of wares. Skinny cows pick listlessly through fields where plastic bottles are more plentiful than grass.

    Faded umbrellas in a group are most likely a market, with goods hanging from the ribs and we pass a man laying out thin strips of meat to dry in the sun.

    Its a pleasant journey with the happy surprise that our ticket includes a welcome drink and croissant, and a full lunch. So we cross and recross the Mekong in comfort.

    Until. The border. Here a process begins that we have no understanding of. Concerningly, we are requested to hand over our passports and entry visas, which are then taken away and we're told to deboard. We walk about 20 feet, the bus follows, and we're told to get back on. Great! That was very efficient. But no, a small distance further we deboard again and go into the border office. Here several lines are moving almost imperceptibly. Sharp dressed guards are installed in 1950s style wood and glass offices, and they slowly, slowly stamp and hand out passports. We are in line for about and hour and a half, no hope of getting to Ho Chi Minh City at the scheduled time.

    Finally our documents are returned and we can carry on. Past one final guard at the outside stairs and we're free to get on our bus and carry on.

    Barely out of sight of the border, the bus ominously pulls to the side of the road, and stops. Urgent discussions, and banging ensue on the underside of the bus. Another hour or so passes, and we're informed another bus had arrived. Finally! But not so fast...this bus is smaller, won't fit everyone. Us and a pair of South African school teachers remain to wait for another bus - 20 min they say, which no one believes.

    Eventually, the broken down bus is revived and instead of another bus, we are headed onwards.

    Three and a half hours late, we arrive in the absolute sea of bikes that is Ho Chi Minh City. And from there, a GRAB car to the hotel - the local version of Uber.

    At this point, a short walk around and dinner is all we want. We find a great Thai place and joke that we still havent really had Vietnamese food.

    We're really in the centre of the activity here, a large Boulevard in front seethes with music and activity. It's loud though and I'm done in.

    How nice to get to the crosswalk to the hotel, and have the doorman run out and hold up his hand to stop traffic so we can cross!    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler
    1Cannon rifle roundabout
    Festive décor hits different in Cambodia!Mystery foods smell fabulousThis is why it's mystery food, I have no idea, even with picturesNight market table settingsWalking street vendorsI don't see any way I would ever learn thisBuddhist temple groundsSnake sculpture guards the clock and templeSmall temples, or spirit houses, are everywhere. They honour ancestors and protective spiritsWat Phnom Daun PenhThat fireplace!Phnom Penh night scene

    The International Date Line Stole

    December 28, 2025 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    My Wordle streak. But the weirdness of time in general has given me the ability to gain back a 2 day streak in what feels like the same day 😊

    I'm writing from an iconic bright orange Virak Buntham luxury bus that is transporting us, with much fanfare and excess horn tooting, from Phnom Penh Cambodia to Saigon, Vietnam.

    The prices have so far been unbelievable. The airport bus into town worked smoothly, despite some concerns I had about it being a very new route. 1 USD, because we didn't have change. Cambodia has a closed currency, you can only get it in country. USD is very commonly used, and you'll get Cambodian riels in change. 1000 KHR is about 34 cents CAD, and a tall can of cold beer is about 2500 KHR.

    The bus from the airport terminated at Canon Rifle Roundabout Park. The next mornings bus to Vietnam left from the same spot, so booking in the new Wyndham Grand, only steps away, felt like a very well deserved splurge after our long flight.

    We took a leisurely long walk down to the Chaktomuk Walk Street. The sidewalks are dodgy, uneven with varying height curbs, occasional gaps and holes - and the ever present, everywhere, scooters. Traffic seems chaotic, lines markers and traffic lights are there but frequently disregarded. The experienced step serenely into traffic, confident in their understanding of flow. It is flow, a river of humanity on 2 wheels, 4 wheels, on foot and in buses and they ebb and flow around each other amazingly. Not quietly! But impressively.

    We ended up detouring by accident down a small dusty alley that led to a shipyard, where we were informed we had strayed into the Royal Cambodian navy yard.

    The riverside food stands on the Walk Street are as numerous as their offerings are mysterious. I'm fascinated just trying to fathom what these foods might be, but not quite ready to be that daring. Are those GRUBS on that sandwich?! The isolation of not knowing the language or culture is complete. The menus helpfully show pictures beside items but when you can't decipher the pictures any easier, it's a bit of a dangerous game!

    I had a very safe matcha ice cream, feeling a bit too tired for that big of a risk.

    Nearby us is an island of peaceful serenity in the midst of the cacaphony: the Buddhist temple of Wat Phnom Daun Penh. It sits upon a hill with a working clock embedded into it. It's lovely, with beautiful gardens and floral offerings at the many small shrines along the way up the hill. Wat Phnom means Mountain Pagoda, and the construction is said to have been completed in 1372. Incense hangs heavily in the whispery air, as offerings are made.

    Neon lights are discordant along with the candles and flowers, but the overall aura is gently peaceful. Bats are beginning to swoop though the high tree branches, and the lively kickball game in the plaza has wound down.

    We decide to take a tuk tuk back to the hotel. Since they're ubiquitous, this is handily found. An interaction involving pointing at maps and gesturing with dollar bills results in success, the driver will take us to our address for $3. We climb in happily, but that's short lived. To our consternation, he has immediately set off in the opposite direction! He stops to clarify with another driver, we try again and again to point at our map, but he nods and carries on the other way! We've really got no choice, we must jump out. To his absolute credit, the driver insists on pressing our payment back to us. He reluctantly accepts part payment.

    So we trudge the long way back, through the humid dusk and emerging nightlife, to enjoy a cold drink and a cool swim in the most gorgeous pool I've ever seen.    Read more

  • TompkinsTalesVietnam ventureTraveler

    Ready, set, go

    December 26, 2025 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    I'm not sure I feel ready or set, but we're closing in on going!

    Dinner at the airport lounge is a nice beginning with spicy noodle soup a perfect intro to a few weeks of unknown flavours ahead!

    An aperol spritz is international, if not perhaps true to the concept. No matter, I'm having one. Followed by tea, gotta induce an evening winding down feel.

    Now to do a few laps of the lounge to stretch. It's a long, long, haul flight ahead of us.    Read more

    Trip start
    October 5, 2025
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