Turning Homeward

And so the winding down goes. Our last evening is spent indulging in a traditional Khmer massage, and a walk through the humid warmth of Phnom Penh streets.

With an evening flight home, opting for a late check out gives us enough time for one last stop the next morning: the Royal Palace that we can see from our hotel.

This huge complex is the home of the current king, Norodom Sihamoni. It's an interesting system, not a hereditary monarchy solely, but something of an elected one. Similar to us, no political power, the Prime Minister holds that.

We have a guide to walk us through the grounds and explain the history. The current buildings are not very old, as previous incarnations were wooden. The gardens appear formally French in layout, but with the vibrantly exotic flora of this tropical climate.

The buildings too reflect a blend of culture, in this case religious. Cambodia was historically primarily a Hindu country, although the vast majority now , including the current king, are Buddhist.

The imposing Throne Hall is yellow in colour, the colour of Buddha, but it's topped in glittering gold then crowned with the 4 faces of Brahma, the Hindu god. Brahma signifies compassion and neutrality - elements sorely lacking in modern times. White contrasts invoke the colour of Hindu.

The King really does reside here. The grounds are closed in the evening and he will walk around. He can enter the formal use Throne Hall - but he is only permitted to sit on the ceremonial throne once in his life, at coronation.

Cambodia had a Queen in 1960, and her thone was made for her specifically, and it's taller.

Memorials called stupa are within the gated complex. More ornate than pyramids, they are similar in purpose. Customarily people are cremated, then urns placed in these elaborate towers.

There is also a Silver Pagoda, and this room is more Buddhist than Hindu. It's actually the room of the Emerald Buddha, so named for the actual real emerald Buddha figure. This elevated sculpture, set on a floor of over 5000 solid silver tiles, is still overshadowed by an incredibly elaborate bejewelled Buddha glittering with thousands of diamonds.

This Royal Palace was occupied when the Khmer Rouge took over Phomh Penh in 1975. As is often the way, the rich and royal manage to evade the consequences their people suffered under Pol Pot.

We did go to the prison and the killing fields, and I chose not to write about that. Suffice to say, powerful and emotional experience.

Our guide has given us so much more understanding of the Palace. She tells us the workers here get no days off, ever. And yet, are happy to be working there. It's hard to conceive of this as a westerner, and I'm a bit dubious.

And the time of return to my own work approaches. Regretfully, my tie up shoes, long pants and jacket are unearthed from the recesses of my backpack. They feel immediately constrictive and suffocating!

Yet, 20 or so hours later, shivering in below zero in Langley, they are really not adequate at all. We're so grateful as always, to be home. I think of a quote I don't remember perfectly, but something about coming home, and seeing home through new eyes. We always bring back so much more. In memories of adventure (and misadventure), in understanding of other cultures and histories, and in the reassuring optimism of realizing just how many good and kind people really are out there.Read more