• TompkinsTales
September 2023

Maritimes Hailys Wedding!

A 16-day adventure by TompkinsTales Read more
  • Trip start
    September 1, 2023
  • Halifax

    September 1, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Are we young enough to get up at 4 am and fly across the country, then hit the bar scene until 1 am? Apparently, that answer would be hell, yes! Great time tonight at Durty Nellys with the band Tristan Legg and the Bad Dogs. Arrived, got the baggage, and the car in record time. Made it to the hotel, very nice, but left right away to find the old triangle Irish pub for dinner and a bit of music - playing Blue Rodeo when we left❤️ but onto a wander, then a wait thru a mediocre act at Durty Nellys. Luckily we waited it out, and were rewarded with the fine music of the Tristan Wagg band. It's so wonderful so see another generation dancing and singing to "our" musicRead more

  • Halifax war memorial plaza
    HMC Dockyard Clock, Canada's oldest working clockHalifax streetThe guards, they changeIs it even noon if there isn't a gun?ArtilleryPowder kegs, thought they were baby wine kegs at first😅Citadel dining roomCitadel guard roomOld Town Clock at the CitadelNova Scotia flag at the B&BFresh flowers, lovely touchBeer menuThe lineup.The bronze medalist I chose😁Decor item at the farm

    Burnbrae Farm, Bridgetown, NS

    September 2, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    What with the late night gallivanting, a slow start today saw us not waking up until after 9 am. Unheard of at home, we are feeling the time change on top of the late night.

    Walking down to the harbour it's a nice short stroll downhill on a beautiful morning. Passing thru a public park square with a war memorial, I can see that the homeless problem in this country is absolutely coast to coast. Sad.

    A bit of sea air clears the head quickly. This is such an inviting and accessible public boardwalk walkway along the harbour. Children's play areas are full of families, so it's a happy background soundtrack. There's a new public art installation that's interesting, broad steep stairs lead to an unobstructed harbour view alongside a glittering mirrored geometric tower with row after row of clear fluttering plastic panels. They're meant to reflect and demonstrate nature's forces all around us. Maybe not quite my style, but it is an impressive marrying of old and new in harmony along here

    Then a bracing walk uphill to the Citadel, in time for the noon gun. It draws a small crowd, held back by park staff until a huge bang and burst of smoke announce that noon has arrived! After watching the changing of the guard, we tour through the very well laid out history of the city and area. The native Micmacs, the French, the English; all struggled over control and power over this important and strategic site. An uneasy agreement between the natives and the British became the act and the country that are still trying to figure this all out.

    Now to head for the bed and breakfast as it's getting later in the afternoon. The city quickly gives way to rolling green hills and farmland, and we tick by the Sackvilles, Upper, Lower, and Middle, in no time. Due west and a tad south, here we are at Burnbrae Farm & Paradise Inn. A wonderful quiet oasis of a spot, and we are warmly welcomed by Simone. The house is old and has period charm, such as wide plank hardwood floors and slanted ceilings, and is decorated with a homey warmth.

    Nearby we find the Lunns Mill brewery and pub for dinner. Unsure as we pulled up to a gravel parking lot outside what appeared to be an industrial building, we were happy to find within the convivial atmosphere of any great pub, boasting an intriguing beer menu. The food menu was equally appealing, and we were delivered a mountain of Greek Natchos that bested us. But we got the better of our glasses of ale! My choice, the quirkily named Girl Hold my Earrings, I thought was top notch. As attested to by our excellent waitress and server, who informed me they had just won 3rd place in Canada for the Berliner Weiss's. Not too bad at all for a 6 year old brewery!
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  • Digby and more

    September 3, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    We all sleep great in the peaceful countryside, lulled by crickets, and awaken to a breakfast beautifully served. Fresh cooked food is served with a background of an actual LP playing on an antique portable phonograph. Nice touch 🙂

    Our day starts in Digby, trying to catch the tail end of the famous Wharf Rat Rally, Canadas biggest motocycle rally. There are plenty of bikes roaring along the scenic highways and local roads, but hardly any left in town. A bit of a sad, after the party atmosphere prevails, and weary vendors are packing up.

    Our next stop is planned to be the short walk to the famous Balancing Rock, which entails a drive down the narrow Digby Neck that juts down between St Mary's Bay and the Bay of Fundy. A small free ferry is efficiently and expertly loaded for the five minute ride across the fast moving waters, over to Long Island.

    It's not far to the trail, which is quite busy. A short walk through a bog on boardwalk and we approach the infamous 250 or so stairs that lead us to the viewing platforms. This rock, tons of basalt, has been precariously balanced and absolutely vertical, for unknown thousands of years. It's an impressive sight.

    En route back to the B &B we make a stop at the aptly named Sandy Cove Beach. A wide sweeping sandy crescent is exactly as advertised, and the sun coming out to gleam on the water is a perfect touch. We find thin oval rocks strewn heavily across the beach, with pretty colorful small stones interspersed. We beachcomb our way peacefully, stopping to enjoy a corgi barking at a stick his owner has thrown into the water, presumably the bark is to order the sticks return from the cold water. I'm pleased to see his owner reward him with a treat when he braves the chill enough to retrieve his prize

    It's so relaxing to sit, sun warming my back with waves rolling in as a calming background, as we watch Brad inspired by the Balancing Rock attempt his own.

    Our next stop is a wonderful winery in Bear River for a tasting. We sit right in the vineyard overlooking the valley as we sip, and agree it's a perfect way to end to the day. Well, perfect might be dinner, which the plan was to procure on the way back. We did not count on rural Nova Scotia stores being closed on Sunday, restaurants closed, and even our last ditch Tim Hortons had run out of so many items! But we managed, and put another day to bed...along with a drink and a continuation of the cutthroat Sequence competition that has become our travel custom!
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  • Day 4

    September 4, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    In which we leave Paradise, and end up in paradise. The morning doesn't dawn, as much as it gradually lightens through an overcast sky. We are quickly on the road after breakfast, first stop Annapolis Royal. Brad realises too late that he has forgotten to try get a walnut from the hundred plus year old trees outside our B&B, which he meant to do, but otherwise we are right on track. Soon enough we arrive in Annapolis. This tiny town around Fort Anne started off Scottish around 1604, then became successively French, then British. Capital of Acadia and Nova Scotia for almost 150 years; little sense of it's former importance remains. It's a sleepy, almost deserted holiday Monday and we wander through the old graveyard and around the rolling hills of the Fort almost alone.

    We looked for and located the German bakery of some renown, but left empty handed after seeing their prices. 5 for a cookie was awfully steep, and Brad greatly offended the proprietor, presumably baker, by asking her if she made local New Brunswick specialty, whoopie pies. I could have told him, no reserved proper German would be likely to have anything named whoopie pie in their repertoire 😅

    Onwards and southwards we wind, stopping by sights that appeal, such as pretty lighthouses, old car lots, and cathedrals that materialize on the side of a quiet road out of nowhere. Inside the car, I'm internet searching the whole way for any grocery store on the island that might actually be open! I resort to posing the question on Reddit, which gains us an answer, but also much surprise that we might expect such a thing!

    The Gilbert's Cove lighthouse has perched in place since 1904. This little house was where the family with 5 children lived and worked, with the lighthouse keeper duty passing from father to daughter before being decommissioned. Today we can tour through it, stop in the quaint tea room, and browse the local crafts in the gift shop. It doesn't get much more local than this, as the ladies of the historical society are meeting in one of the rooms. Fingers and tongues both fly as they knit and chat, and not a stitch is dropped as we say hello.

    A red and white classic Ford shining in a roadside gravel lot drew Brad in to get a closer look, and it's down home proprietor Wayne allowed that it cost nothing to look. I'll talk to you for free he says, I ain't gonna bill you, I'm not a lawyer. Wayne could have billed for talking, entertaining as he turned out to be. He fills us in on what being a local means, helping out no questions asked because it's the neighborly thing to do, not being showy. Connections to people and to the area seem to matter most here.

    Regrettably we have to pull away from Wayne before yet another story occurs to him. We have a brief look around at the historical homes in Yarmouth before arriving at Boulder Cove cottages. We are sitting on the porch, with steaks on the grill and watching a glorious sunset , quietly content to ease into the end of another long day with an absolute appreciation of the beauty around us.

    And along the way today, Ron produces for Brad a walnut to take home. He had at some point before we left this morning, gone outside and got one. So a walnut tree may yet grow at our house, with the most auspicious of beginnings.
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  • Black Loyalists Heritage Centre
    Names from the Book of Negroes, the ledger of the blacks who came hereView to the cove from the burial groundsApple season, apples everywhere, but still small and tartShelburneShelburneLove this boat name😅A big painting job ahead... Or abandonedRoseway beach

    Beach day

    September 5, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today starts with a tour through the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre which is a sobering look at a painful history. Black loyalists started arriving here in 1783. After supporting the British in the revolutionary war in the states, they were rewarded with freedom and a new life in Canada. Their reward though was of great lesser quality than the land grants given to the whites, and they still suffered racial discrimination.We are all aware of the atrocity that slavery was, or should be, but somehow hearing from a direct descendant of one of those kidnapped and enslaved people about how many millions it happened to..brings it to a shockingly personal level.

    The centre and its stories are a real contrast to the surroundings. It's a beautiful morning, sun sparkling on the water and clear skies.

    From here, a tour along the waterfront of Shelburne. Closures are an ongoing surprise to us, as we discover all 3 museums are locked up, for the season presumably. It's a pretty waterfront and some great historic homes and buildings to view

    I've asked Marge at the pharmacy where she recommends for lunch. She mentions a cafe that serves "down home" food, which is enough to convince Brad that's the place to go. Unfortunately, I have to say Marge is delusional, as it's a basic diner, but with mediocre food, a surly waitress, and pub pricing. Oh well, at least we're set now to go find the beach.

    Nearby is Roseway beach, a really breathtaking crescent of rumbling surf breaking into a powder sand beach. Nothing better than a barefoot walk in and along the water edge, enjoying the fresh tangy air and the sounds of waves, birds, and kids playing in the water. At Roseway, we can see how perilously close the fires recently raging through here were. Blackened tree trunks framing both sides of the road, and right up to the beach are a visible reminder of the recent dangers. There are so many gestures of thanks to the firefighters all around the province too, it's heartwarming.

    Then home to another sunset, water too choppy to take the small boats out, but also another great dinner of bacon wrapped scallops, corn on the cob, potatoes with garlic.... This is the life!
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  • Sandy Point lighthouse
    Liverpool museum ship in a bottleSamuel Perkins deskPerkins house, 2 of those 4 windows are 1766 original glassConcrete Creation's sculptureLunenburg is so distinctiveBluenose ships bellBluenose IILunenburgAt The Knot pubAlpenhorn at Peggys Cove, a Swiss from Zurich who's lived here for 2 yearsAlmost perfect, who are these people in my shot?Swissair memorialSecond Swissair memorialFire hydrant has a tall flag so you can find it in the snowMahone BayPrettiest harborCreepy academy, old school in Lunenburg, right beside the cemetery

    In which we arrive at Lunenburg

    September 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    This one is the the last two days, busy as they have been! We regretfully departed from our cottage by the sea, and made our way through Liverpool, to Lunenburg.

    As always, diversions must happen. First plan is to reach the Sandy Point lighthouse at low tide, because apparently you can walk across a shallow sand bar to reach it...and pull the foghorn! I mean, that's pretty appealing. However, the low wasn't low enough, so we had to content ourselves with photos of a lighthouse close but oh so far.

    Liverpool is a wonderful little town, and we are more and more appreciative of the friendliness and just niceness of the locals. They have a fabulous museum here, all by donation. The museum is quite nautical of course, given the importance of the sea to the area. Attached to it is the Perkins house, the 1766 home of Samuel Perkins. He kept a diary that has centuries later proven to be a real window to the times he lived in, due to the rich details he carefully recorded.

    On the way out of Liverpool is a fantastical realm of concrete sculptures set in a local garden centre. You wouldn't know it was there, unless you had researched it like Yvonne had, although the guide from the museum recommended it very highly when we told her off our plan to stop by there . She said all the locals knew it well!

    Arriving eventually in Lunenburg, our spirits are a bit dampened by a hotel that didn't quite match the booking site, and by a foggy mist that had turned into definitely rain. But, our fortunes were about to take a solid upward turn. A walk down at the wharf reveals the unscheduled appearance of the Bluenose II, whose departure had been delayed by the weather.

    Later, at the local pub, we arrive in a crush of people all with the same idea. We are relegated to a patio picnic table to wait in the cool outdoors. But, we've just seen musicians will be performing and that's a surprise treat worth the wait. No one has taken our names for a wait list, but we have been noted and remembered. We are soon called in, and guided to the best seat in the house, just as the music begins. The kind of whirling, lilting Irish type music that is uplifting and calming at the same time. Highlighted by the player of a sort of drum, whose energy, rythm, and clear absorption in the joy of the music brought us all along with him

    A late night again has been followed by an early morning. The next day, today, is Peggys Cove day. It's so iconically beautiful, so many pictures have to be taken off probably the most photographed lighthouse in the country.

    Lunch is at the nearby Swissair memorial, after paying our respects we find a nearby huge flat boulder to serve as our table, and watch sailboats and waves while we look back at Peggy's Cove. Hugging the shoreline on the way back, we stop as well at the second Swissair memorial site. The 2 sites form a triangle with the impact site of the crash, and are deliberately understated and modest.

    A tour through the lovely Mahone Bay gets us home still in time for dinner, and a guided ghost tour afterwards through old Lunenburg. Mahone is so inviting, lots of intriguing little shops. We can't resist the pewter store where they manufacture on site and you can watch them pour the molten metal. Their pieces are gorgeous. Then the lighthouse store, where I see a map of the many, many lighthouses around Nova Scotia. It occurs to me to ask the proprietor if Peggys is really the most beautiful or just the most well known. It's a real insight to hear that locals are actually disgruntled by the whole concept, as there are so many wonderful lighthouses around the province, just as or more scenic, but without government support to maintain them. Insult to injury is what we noticed at Peggys Cove; that the gift shop carried many made in China items. In a national park, that's pretty disrespectful to local artists.
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  • Airbnb at Colpitts Settlement
    Hector Brook, the deck viewSome cooking, some darts playingSunsets are always, always, such a reminder of the beauty around usHair prep station!Sisters❤️The group is ready to goWedding signBlossom Grove wedding venueBarb and sisters Annie and ChristineThe men!

    Wedding!

    September 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I'm sipping coffee from the deck of our Airbnb, watching the mist glide over the river and listening to birds and gentle water sounds. A very peaceful morning after a hectic couple of days.

    From picking Nicole up in Halifax to right now, it's been busy. Lots of chatting, planning, preparation and absolutely enjoying this incredibly lovely spot. There's really never a shortage of topics to be discussed when you get 3 sisters together! Brad and Ron wisely retreated to playing darts and having beer while we caught up on the first night.

    No wedding pictures to be posted yet, but Haily and Jake were the happiest bride and groom I've seen in a long while. Clearly in love and on the same wavelength. Seeing these two surrounded by loving family so happy to help launch them off in their life together, is so wonderful.

    The barn in the country setting was charming, and the decor, designed and executed by Haily at a distance, shows that she has her father's confidence and wit, but also her mother's style and design talent. The sweet simplicity of floral and candle arrangements, and lights strung up around the barn were a perfect backdrop to Hailys sparkling dress and Jake's crisp black suit.

    With all of the Heeb aunt's and most of the husband's ( Tyler is holding down the home front) plus an excellent representation from the animated Twarecki sisters and assorted husbands there, it was actually a fun wedding. We knew it would be when it started off with Hunter's beer cart preceding the attendants down the aisle before the ceremony 😁. Adorable flower girls are fabulous, but in unexpected almost 30 degree heat, this was a pretty welcome twist!

    Being New Brunswick it's not surprising that Brad finds a hometown connection with the grooms mother. Jake has a wonderful family, clearly loving and close and bursting with pride of their son. Haily and Jake were even serenaded by the grandparents at the reception. It clearly wasn't easy for them to move around, and even though voices faltered and timings uncertain, their determination to sing for the young couple shone. The Stars shone brightly was their sung choice.

    Today we have a wedding lunch in Moncton, and Nicole will leave with Mike and Barb to return toVictoria in time for Brins birthday. We're moving on to Fredericton tomorrow, as our Maritimes tour takes us west.

    Along with all the Atlantic provinces, we are watching the movement of hurricane Lee approaching. There is a chance that Lee will interfere with our flight home. But we have several days left to explore ahead yet!
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  • Florenceville

    September 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After leaving our idyllic ( except for the mosquitos) cabin by the river, we've worked our way across the province to Brad's hometown.

    At the wedding lunch yesterday, in which Haily was brought to tears by each of our family gifts, we had a chance to really visit as a family. Mike gives an impromptu speech in which he touchingly acknowledges Yvonne and Rons 40th wedding anniversary that day, and speaks of their example of loving supporting family, and the valuable lessons time with Ron and Yvonne both had taught him as a father, and how much their example was now going forward to yet another generation and new family.

    It was so perfect to follow the wedding with an opportunity to really talk. After many hugs goodbye, Mike, Barb, Nicole and Hunter head over to Halifax to begin flights home.

    We decide to spend the sunny afternoon seeing these giant lobster in Shediac, and wading in the warm surf at Parlee Beach - where we run into Christine and Jesus - before buying lobster to bring home for our dinner.

    Setting out the next day, we stopped for a visit and overnight stay with Pierre and Andrea at their fabulous home riverside to the St John River. With a view of the river from their deck and wood burning fireplace crackling beside us, we had a wonderful relaxing afternoon catching up. After a tour of the property led by Pierre, and a tour of the interior led by Andrea. They've created a wonderfully elegant yet inviting home, and are positively loving the life they are building here. The evening is capped off, of course, with a classic delicious Andrea meal, with Ginger snap ice cream sandwiches for dessert.

    Coming through Fredericton was a letdown. I recalled the Garrison District as being so interesting and historical. Yet when we got there, all we saw in the overcast drizzle was other dejected looking tourists wandering desolately around. Everything was shut down, locked up, closed for the season. A big festival is starting tomorrow, and huge white tents are being erected all over

    We decide to visit the parliament building, being the only game in town. Luckily, it's a very pleasurable surprise, with Victorian elegance and the truly unanticipated surprise of a genuine original Audubon print displayed.

    However, that's about it for Fredericton, with its only other revelation for us being the existence of barbecue chicken nachos. Shared at the Snooty Fox Pub, and rapidly polished off!

    Today we left Pierre and Andrea after a waffle, bacon and sausage breakfast. Thus fortified, we ventured out in the pouring rain over towards Florenceville. Not that we ever go anywhere directly!

    The obviously reasonable route we followed was via the world's biggest axe, the Woodstock public Library, the covered bridge chip factory, the world's shortest covered bridge, the world's longest covered bridge, Brad's sister Anne's home, and finally arrival at the restored train car that's our hotel tonight.😅

    A dinner at the Down Under Diner, despite the waitresses hilarious eye roll when Brad said he heard it was the best restaurant in town; was a delicious pulled pork sandwich, served with wildly disparate fries on the sides. We had some good laughs over it, so worth it right there.

    A really nice visit with Vince rounds out a day interspersed throughout with Hurricane Lee update checks. The word today is that it's headed straight up the Bay of Fundy, which Vince tells us he had never before seen
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  • PEI

    September 13, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    First stop en route to Prince Edward Island is the Noah's ark cafe Yvonne had discovered online. What a treat! The ark is enormous, apparently it was built originally as a Bible school. I've read since it's meant to be about 1/3 or 2/3 of the size of the original. Either way, the ark dominates it's surroundings at about 300 feet long.

    The menu pricing is a welcome blast from the past, and we order sandwiches and salads for a later roadside lunch. Obviously, Brad has to have one of the whoopie pies displayed🙂.

    Still following the hurricane Lee updates with rising concern, we have a pleasant but prolonged trip back across New Brunswick. Opening our lunch boxes midway to we discover sandwiches with real chicken on slabs of home made bread, a virtual feast, and completely delicious!

    Finally Confederation bridge rises ahead of us. Almost there! This bridge is so remarkable, stretching out of sight across what seems an impossible length. It's hard to see over as we approach the unmistakable red dirt of PEI.

    Our cottage is located across the Island, which is still a greater distance than it might seem. But the place is perfect, clean, convenient, well maintained, and with a host so friendly it was a bit tough to maneuver away to actually get to our cottage!

    And on our heels arrive Mike and Barb, we're so happy to get an extra, laid back, sit on the porch and chat visit for a couple of hours. They're in nearby Charlottetown, and are waiting for Haily and Jake to arrive on the island.

    As they leave, we realize we have just enough time to make it to an evening ceilidh at the historic Stanley Bridge Hall. So off we roar, making it in time to enjoy yet another different Maritime musical traditional show. The Chaisson family is a vast local musical family, and they are joined by a guest fiddler and a step dancer. It's feel good music, and a very satisfying ending to a long day
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  • PEI Beach Day

    September 14, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A glorious morning greets us, absolutely unexpectedly. Still waiting on hurricane Lee, and prepared to leave early if necessary, but today looks all clear.

    First stop, Cavendish Beach. There are distant beach walkers out with us, few and far away, so the sense of openness while we walk along with the waves is still very peaceful.

    There's a lighthouse on a point that looks walkable, if you have time. PEI apparently has the highest concentration of lighthouses in Canada, which is hard to fathom after Nova Scotia! Wanting to make the most of the sunshine while we have it, we elect to drive over to the even prettier New London lighthouse. As at Cavendish, with nothing beyond but the wide expanse of the Gulf of St Lawrence, the emptiness is wild and serene at the same time.

    A detour around a very deep, very red mudpuddle sees us eventually arrive at our final beach, Thunder Cove. We're in search of its iconic flower pot rock, akin to the famous Hopewell Rocks. Although evidence of similar formations is present, we don't see it. Still, the contrasts of deep maroon rocks, gold sands, deep blue sea and light blue sky make it an incredibly picturesque spot.

    After a quick lunch stop break at the cottage, the guys elect to stay and relax. There's extra beer that can't come home with us, and naps to be had, so their duties in the next stage of the journey are pretty evident🙂

    We've chosen our location in part for it's proximity to the Green Gables attraction. Yvonne and I set out to walk the Haunted Woods trail, under increasingly unsettled skies. The trail begins by the graveyard, burial place of Lucy Maud Montgomery, and ends at Green Gables. We're not too far into it before the first fat raindrops begin pattering down, and we cross the bridge over to the house in a full downpour!

    Many finds this attraction disappointing, perhaps because the imagination and ability of Montgomery to create such an evocative, magical character leads devoted Anne fans to think they will somehow capture an image or a feel of a charming little redhead flitting about. You want to see her, because to us she's so real. Still, visiting the home and grounds that are described so vividly as the backdrop in the beloved novels feels like a way of paying homage to a talented author. Maybe we are all hoping to capture a little of her magic by sharing her space.

    By time we have walked back to the graveyard to find Lucys burial site, we're under a full on deluge. From under her umbrella, Yvonne manages to capture a quick picture of the stone, with its assorted pens left on top as tribute.

    It's going to take days to dry our clothes and shoes, but we are very pleased with a single day that managed to include so many highlights.
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    Trip end
    September 16, 2023