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- Day 5
- Tuesday, September 5, 2023 at 7:30 AM
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 15 m
CanadaPauls Cove43°43’52” N 65°22’25” W
Beach day

Today starts with a tour through the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre which is a sobering look at a painful history. Black loyalists started arriving here in 1783. After supporting the British in the revolutionary war in the states, they were rewarded with freedom and a new life in Canada. Their reward though was of great lesser quality than the land grants given to the whites, and they still suffered racial discrimination.We are all aware of the atrocity that slavery was, or should be, but somehow hearing from a direct descendant of one of those kidnapped and enslaved people about how many millions it happened to..brings it to a shockingly personal level.
The centre and its stories are a real contrast to the surroundings. It's a beautiful morning, sun sparkling on the water and clear skies.
From here, a tour along the waterfront of Shelburne. Closures are an ongoing surprise to us, as we discover all 3 museums are locked up, for the season presumably. It's a pretty waterfront and some great historic homes and buildings to view
I've asked Marge at the pharmacy where she recommends for lunch. She mentions a cafe that serves "down home" food, which is enough to convince Brad that's the place to go. Unfortunately, I have to say Marge is delusional, as it's a basic diner, but with mediocre food, a surly waitress, and pub pricing. Oh well, at least we're set now to go find the beach.
Nearby is Roseway beach, a really breathtaking crescent of rumbling surf breaking into a powder sand beach. Nothing better than a barefoot walk in and along the water edge, enjoying the fresh tangy air and the sounds of waves, birds, and kids playing in the water. At Roseway, we can see how perilously close the fires recently raging through here were. Blackened tree trunks framing both sides of the road, and right up to the beach are a visible reminder of the recent dangers. There are so many gestures of thanks to the firefighters all around the province too, it's heartwarming.
Then home to another sunset, water too choppy to take the small boats out, but also another great dinner of bacon wrapped scallops, corn on the cob, potatoes with garlic.... This is the life!Read more