Rest Day- only 11,888 steps!

Today was supposed to be a rest day - HA! The temptation to see inside the three great churches we had only seen from outside on our guided tour was too strong. First was Matilda’s Church of the Trinity, part of the Abbaye-aux-Dames (Religious Foundation for Women) started in 1060. Queen Matilda was buried there, in front of the altar, in 1083, and lies there still. Amazing to look down on the resting-place of a remarkable woman who was a power in her time. The church, surrounded by trees and later buildings of the abbey, has an air of restfulness and calm.

On our way to William’s abbey church at the other end of the town, we chanced upon the impressive Gothic church of Saint-PIerre (Saint Peter). This was severely damaged during the 1944 bombing of Caen, when 80% of the city was destroyed in fierce fighting between Allied and German forces. It took five months to clear the wreckage. A photograph in the church shows it and the surrounding city in ruins. The next two show how the spire and nave (body) of the church were restored.

By now we were feeling hungry and made our way to Monsieur Louis, a restaurant on the market square. We had enjoyed a fine coffee and croissant there during our guided tour. We had planned to return for lunch, but it was booked out for Mothers’ Day. Today our luck was in. We ordered the Plat du Jour (daytime fixed menu) and were rewarded by a delicious meal, beautifully presented. Of course after this, we had to order dessert - also outstanding.

Last on our list was William’s church of the Abbaye-aux-Hommes (Men’s abbey), Saint-Étienne (St Stephen). This was spectacular. It climbed up the hill in an organic growth of stone, towers, pinnacles, columns, arches and massed flying buttresses. All William’s buildings were statements of his power and the permanence of his reign (think the Tower of London and Durham Cathedral). This is a battleship of a church, massive and soaked in history. So many lives, so many prayers, so many times the church a place of succour during wars, plagues and civil strife. In a church like this you can sense the generations upon generations who have knelt there.

Amidst the bitter fighting of 1944, Duke William’s mighty church survived. For a month the heroic Monsignor des .Hameaux sheltered hundreds of townspeople, men, women, children, eating, sleeping and living their lives inside the church. A sheet marked with a red cross, stretched out on the roof, marked it as a hospital. The bombers left it alone. His flock survived. These smudgy black-and-white photographs brought tears to my eyes.

Our Rest Day never quite happened as we had planned, but we enjoyed the day immensely. And we were so glad we took this unique opportunity to experience these awe-inspiring churches, so rich in history.Meer informatie