Europe 2025

Mei - Jun 2025
  • Desiree and Neil Jury
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  • Desiree and Neil Jury

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  • We’re Off!!

    14 Mei, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Hi folks, leaving today:
    * Daughter Liz taking us to Wellington airport this afternoon,
    * Farewell dinner with family, then flight to Auckland.
    * Air NZ flight to Singapore, leaving at 2355, arriving at 0645 tomorrow (10H50M airtime)
    * Singapore Airlines flight to Frankfurt, leaving 1055, arriving 1800 (13H5M airtime).
    * Couple of rest days to adjust to time zone - and walking upside down!!

    Wish us luck
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  • Farewell Whitby, hello Singapore

    15 Mei, Singapura ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    All journeys begin with one small step. We piled our (much-reduced) luggage into our helpful son-in-law’s car boot in Whitby under a setting sun on 14 May. Wellington-Auckland, then a brisk walk to the International Terminal (swimming fish and flying bird ceiling sculptures new since last time), then we filed onto our Air New Zealand plane just before midnight.

    We flew into Singapore 10 hours later as the sun rose (super dramatic shots of the fishing fleet returning to base). Then landing at Changi, my favourite airport: super-modern, spacious, intelligently thought out, with none of the claustrophobia of older, shabbier places like Los Angeles.
    Changi is a gateway to adventure. Just reading the destinations on the Departures board gives you a thrill. The shops are spacious and shiny (I loved the Bacha Marrakech Coffee shop, all glittering lights and North African arches.
    A shower - bliss! And what other airport would be clever enough to include a Butterfly Garden to lift your spirits? and then to follw - COFFEE! And every time you look out a window, there’s another huge plane to bear you off, like Aladdin’s Flying Carpet, to a new destination.
    Each comfortable sofa chair has a personal recharging dock (modern travel is much more device-dependent than it used to be). Once again, the clever touch of giant golden carp swimming in their own little river, to delight the eye and relax the spirit.

    Then bye-bye Singapore as we look off (Singapore Air this time) for our next 13-hour leg to Europe. My travel discovery on this leg was The Sleepy Bookshelf, a series of audio books produced by Elizabeth Grace in London. She reads the full text of a book (adults and children) in a soothing voice, in 50-60-minute parts. Each is introduced with yoga gentle breathing exercises, and backgrounded with relaxing music.
    I chose Virginia Woolf’s The Lighthouse, which I hadn’t read before. Because you’re concentrating on the story, and tired with all the Travel Rush, after 10-15 minutes you drift off into a deep sleep. When you wake up again she gives a summary of the previous section. I had several periods of deep sleep. Recommended for insomniacs as well as weary travellers. Google The Sleepy Bookshelf if you’re interested:
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  • Frankfurt Rest & Recover Day

    16 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We arrived at Frankfurt Airport at 1800, after a 13-hour flight from Singapore. The Singapore Airlines staff were excellent, very attentive, the seats were comfortable, and the meals were very good, though maybe not quite the Air NZ standard.

    Leaving the Airbus A380 we made our first mistake: we both used the airport facilities, allowing the other 500+ passengers to hit the Immigration queue ahead of us! An hour and a half later we finally went to collect our bags, hoping they hadn’t been souvenired by someone else. We found them dumped by the carousel (one of 10+ carousels). Half hour taxi ride to our hotel.

    The hotel is just across the road from Frankfurt’s main railway station, an impressive building with lots of eateries, so after settling in, we enjoyed a quick meal of frankfurters etc at one of them.

    We both slept well, and woke with no symptoms of jet lag. Great breakfast set us up for the day.

    First job was a visit to Eis Fontanellae shop. When I tried to charge my watch the previous evening using a USB-C to USB-A adaptor it wouldn’t work. HELP!!

    The Frankfurt Apple shop had two floors: Ground for basic purchases of Apple products, and a Genius level above (Yes, that’s actually what they call it!) for more difficult issues. We used both levels, and sorted the problem. WHEW!!

    However, my watch failing had a fantastic outcome: L’Art de Sucré (reputedly the best cafe in Hesse) was just across the road, selling unbelievable French treats. Desiree’s coffee was great, and mine with a shot of cognac was even better; isn’t it great when you don’t have to drive!

    At this point we were only a short walk from the house of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Germany’s greatest poet, plus novelist, dramatist and natural scientist. It was a great visit: three floors of fascinating artefacts associated with Goethe and his family. For example, on each of three floors there were ceramic stoves in four rooms, heated by fires fed on each landing (by servants of course). We have previously seen these stoves in palaces all over Germany and Austria, but you don’t normally see the working side! Sadly, what we saw here was a house (very cleverly and well) rebuilt house, following virtually total destruction by bombing in World War II.

    Back to the hotel via the Eis Fontanella (Earl Grey tea, and kirsch flavoured ice cream) - they even offer banana ice cream for your dog.

    Now for our planned Rest & Recover Day!!
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  • Frankfurt Walking Tour

    17 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We set off today to join a four-hour walking tour around the old city. Missing our morning coffee, we found the stylish Caffè Monza. We found our group on the corner of Römer Square, named after the Romans who built a bridge over the river Main, with a single staging post nearby. From this modest beginning (the ruins are nearby) a great city grew..

    Our group leader, Anne, an enthusiastic American/German, led off her 20-odd mix of American, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and other tourists, She has lived in Frankfurt for 10 years and really knows her stuff,

    We couldn’t enter the mighty KaiserDom, the cathedral where the Holy Roman Emperors were elected and crowned, as a Croatian First Holy Communion procession had just started,, with girls in white dresses and boys in long buttoned white cassocks.

    The Holy Roman Empire, founded by Charlemagne in the year 800, covered most of central and north-western Europe, In its later German form,. it lasted until Napoleon closed it down in 1808.
    The Emperor was chosen by a group of seven prince-electors who met in Frankfurt . In practice the crown usually went to the Habsburg (Austrian) ruler of the day. It was a big deal in its time, and served also as
    a useful body for settling arguments between its members. It will pop up all over the place in later postings of our blog, so it’s worth a thumbnail sketch now!

    The cathedral waa the only church in central Frankfurt to survive the two RAF bombing raids of March 1944, which wiped out the central city and cost 1500 lives. Over the years some original buildings have been restored. The charming House of the Spice Merchants, with its black arm holding up a set of golden scales, is one..

    Next we walked down to the river Main, to the Eisener Steig Bridge. From here you can see the finance district’s skyscrapers towering over the traditional buildings below. Right on cue, a giant river barge cruised into view.

    Next stop was the Carmelite Monastery, founded in 1246. The monks and nuns of this religious order (Neil’s sister Gloria was one of these for some months), named after Mt Carmel in the Holy Land, lived simple lives of prayer and meditation, cut off from the world. The building, is famous for the huge 16th-century wall paintings vividly imagining the life of Christ which decorate the cloister. This beautiful open cloister around an enclosed garden has a mood of peace and reflection.

    My feet were getting pretty sore after three hours,. Neil pointed out a welcome Grandma Chair in the foyer, while the others completed their tour. Heading back to the Römer we refuelled withr a quick sausage bun and ice cream .

    The last section of the tour told the story of the Jews of Frankfurt. Forbidden to join in the city’s trades, they were useful as money-lenders in an age when Christians were forbidden to charge interest on loans. A section of wall still remains from the first ghetto in Europe. This was the only place they were allowed to live. Not surprisingly it grew more and more crowded and insanitary over the years, In the late nineteenth century they were allowed to shift to a new, bigger area.. Here they flourished, until the coming of the Nazis to power in the 1930’s. On 9 November 1938, the infamous Kristallnacht (Night of Broken Glass)., all three synagogues , along with all the others in Germany, were destroyed. Stumbling stones (Stolpersteine) dotted around the city show what happened next, as Jewish families were arrested.and loaded into trains. The final stop on our tour was the Jewish Memorial Wall. 12,000 names are set into the wall, Visitors are invited to place a stone for remembrance. The family of Anne Frank, who had fled to Amsterdam , was one of these.
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  • Frankfurt farewell - hello Dresden

    18 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We were really looking forward last year to visiting Dresden. This was the last day trip on our list, booked for the day before we left Berlin, to return to Frankfurt Airport, and eventually home.

    Alas, it never happened. Neil woke up on that morning with severe vertigo. we spent the morning chasing up a (very helpful) English-speaking doctor, and then, when Neil had recovered, exploring the Potsdamer Platz in a vain attempt to buy a stamp for a postcard. (I ended up giving the said postcard to a helpful Middle Eastern gentleman at Frankfurt Airport. He promised to post it for me, and did,, having refused to take any money.)

    This time around, with pleas for postcards from my two youngest granddaughters ringing in my ears, I was smart. Or so I thought. I found two 3-D postcards at Frankfurt Airport, in a souvenir shop where they even sold stamps! I filled them out - one with some difficulty as the writing surface was plastic. I had to engrave my message with a ballpoint pen, rather than write it. So all I had to do was post it. The concierge at the hotel was polite, but no, he wouldn’t do it. There were no postboxes we could see on the street, over the road from the huge train station. Aha! we had spotted a Deutsche Post shop inside the station as we walked. So we raced over next morning ahead of our walking tour and - the office was shut.

    Finally we found three yellow tin boxes which looked to a Kiwi like rubbish tins. These were our precious post boxes - so the postcards were in and away.

    With last night being a Saturday, there was much hooting and hollering coming from the station. We woke early, got our bags sorted, and treated ourselves to one more excellent three-course German hotel breakfast. An army marches on its stomach, and so do the Jurys, who quickly become savage and morose if not fed at regular intervals, like the lions at the zoo. We were tickled by the honey dispenser on the breakfast bar. it looked like a baby robot from a 1950-s Sci-Fi film. Pull the metal arm and the honey squirts out the bottom into a little tray you can eat after.

    We headed off to Platform 8. Right on time, a sleek metal snake slithered into place, its carriages stretching as far as we could see. It turned out that our seats were in the carriage at the far end, which we reached after a brisk walk.

    Last year we staggered along dragging too much weight in too many bags and suitcases . Lesson learned, we donated the large suitcases to our favourite charity shop as soon as we got home, bought two medium-sized ones, and took backpacks instead of a second 7K suitcase. This paid off immediately, as our new suitcases fit two to a rack on the train, where last year they took up one each.

    So there we were at 9.15, suitcases stowed, looking out the wide windows, and waiting for our adventure to start: to go where no Jury had gone before. German is a great language for inventing new words, so I’m sure there must be Zugfreude - “train joy”, for that flood of delight when you settle in your seat and adventure awaits.

    So for the next four hours the rolling green countryside spooled past: farms, forests, rivers, settlements of little square houses with steeply pitched roofs and small square windows, to keep out the winter cold. Neil was pleased to find takeaway coffees in the restaurant car - also our granddaughters’ favourite Oreo biscuits. We got into conversation with the young man opposite who was wearing a Springbok jacket. It turned out his hobby was long-distance car rallies in old cars (at least ten years old). He was returning from one all over Britain, from bottom to top, ending in Edinburgh, and covering 5000 kilometres!!

    At 1.40 we pulled into Dresden station. We saw an attractive new food court but were driven away by the bashing and crashing din of a very amateur Dixieland band in the concourse.

    At the hotel we waited for news of the school-friend we stayed with in Hamburg last year. She had set off from the northern outskirts of Hamburg to join is, but after a series of track work delays and missed connections, was hours late. We celebrated her eventual arrival with thick hot chocolates from a cafe next door to our hotel - it is cold here - then went looking for a place to eat. Alas we were Sundayfied. In Germany shops shut on Sunday, and the few cafés close early.

    After searching the neighbourhood we found one still open in a complex called Kraftwerk Mitte. This was a hole in the wall conversion in what had obviously been a large manufacturing site, to a series of boutique businesses and eateries. We were lucky to get a table (not surprisingly the place was busy), and were able to plan our next three days in Dresden.
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  • Dresden Castle & the Frauenkirche

    19 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today we had two places we wanted to visit: Dresden Castle (Dresdner ResidenzSchloss), and the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady).

    We started with a tasty (and cheap!) breakfast at the next door bakery: orange juice, muesli, yoghurt, fruit salad, and bread/rolls with butter, ham, cheese, tomato, and cucumber. Plus coffee! As planned, this avoided any need to buy lunch.

    A 12 minute walk took us to the Postplatz where I was supposed to pick up our tickets for Dresden Castle and 2-day passes to the Hop OnHop Off Bus. The meeting point instructions were quite vague, and I had to hunt for the provider. Desiree and our friend Marie Thérèse took the opportunity to disappear into the Altmarkt Galerie, a huge shopping mall that they had also wanted to visit. When I finally caught up with them, Marie Thérèse had bought a new shoulder bag (looked like Louis Vuitton!, ) and Des had found the Ravensburger Jigsaw shop. You can see the results in the attached photo.

    So we made our way to Dresden Castle. In times past this was the residence of the mighty August the Strong, Duke of Saxony, and one of the Electors of the Holy Roman Emperor Des wrote about yesterday. Sadly, like the rest of Dresden, the Residenz was very seriously damaged by bombing during World War Two. Much has been rebuilt, but there is a huge amount of ongoing work in progress to restore the palace to what it once was. Our immediate interest was an extraordinary collection of armour and weaponry from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. We had seen some of this on YouTube, but the reality was stunning. Ycan see some of these exhibits in the photos attached. Marie Thérèse took a different path, enjoying a number of the treasures commissioned and otherwise acquired by the Dukes over the years.

    Finding our way out through the shop (only one book bought!), we carried on to the Frauenkirche. This iconic Evangelical Lutheran Church was completely burned out during the Dresden Firestorm of February 13 - 15, 1945 (along with another 6.5 square km) that resulted from British and American bombing raids. 25,000 people were killed.

    Discussions about rebuilding the church started in about 1948, but with a communist government in East Germany not much actually happened until German reunification. Rebuilding proper began in 1994, and the Frauenkirche was reconsecrated in October 2005. Marie Thérèse sang in the choir at the reopening ceremony. As you can see in the photos, the Frauenkirche is a church of unique and amazing beauty. it was one of the primary reasons Des & I wanted to visit Dresden.

    After we walked home, my watch told me we had walked a total of 14,314 steps. Marie Thérèse”s phone told her that she had walked more than 15,000, but she suggested that was because she had shorter legs!

    We finished up with lovely hamburgers at Lohrmann’s Brauhaus. A great day!
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  • Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Zwinger

    20 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Last year when we were travelling through Germany, we kept running into paintings of Augustus the Strong, Prince of Saxony and one of the Electors of what was by now the Holy Roman Empire of the German Peoples. Robust, confident, with a zest for life, he obviously made a big splash in his time (1670-1733). Here in Dresden we found out why. He is “one of the most famous of the Saxon rulers, and the most important native of Dresden. King of Poland as well as Saxony, he had “an extraordinarily strong and healthy nature.” He was strong enough to break a horseshoe in two, loved hunting, pleasure and women, He had one legitimate and eight illegitimate children, and he looked after all of them.. As a ruler he was the first in Europe to introduce a consumption tax - what we might call GST. He loved military glory, was a great builder of palaces and collector of arms and armour, mechanical devices, jewels and beautiful things, He had the largest collection of porcelain in Europe - 20,000 pieces.. When wars made it impossible to import from China, he sponsored the development of fine porcelain making in Europe. By 1715 his factory at Meissen was making fine china of the highest standard.

    This morning we headed for another Baroque treasure. the Zwinger, built first for court celebrations, then developed to house Augustus’ many magnificent collections. By 1730 it was “a first-class museum in breath-taking architecture” . The entire complex, influenced by Italian architecture seen by Augustus on his travels, was celebrated as “The Florence of the Elbe.” All the more tragic then that the Zwinger complex, the Court Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, and the world-famous Semperoper (Opera House) nearby were massively damaged. With heroic commitment, the people of Dresden, generous backers, and lovers of the arts worldwide have restored much of this unique complex and are working on the rest.

    Neil, Marie-Thérèse and I arrived at the Palace early, so we, took the opportunity to visit the Cathedral. Reconsecrated in 1962, the Cathedral is stunning.

    We then crossed the road to the Zwinger,, definitely built to impress. The building is regarded as one of the most important Baroque monuments in Germany. We wanted to visit the Zwinger because of its famous Old Masters Picture Gallery, the Gemäldergalerie. For Kiwis from the ends of the earth, it’s a real thrill to walk into a room and find yourself face-to-face with a masterpiece you have only ever seen in a book. The scale, the brushwork, the subtleties of colour - you learn so much more about these works when they are right in front of you: room after room, artists after artists - Rembrandt, Rubens, Vermeer, El Greco, Caravaggio, Van Dyck …..

    Sadly, after three hours we were flagging. We could have come back every day for a week! So by common ageement, and because we had another major outing this evening - a concert at the Semperoper - we decided to call it a day.

    We found a lovely outdoor restauarant called Alex (!), and enjoyed some great food. Then back home for a rest .
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  • Intermezzo #1: The Semperoper, Dresden

    20 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    In 1841 the archtect Gottfried Semper built a  magnificent concert hall and opera house next to the Zwinger Palace in the heart of Dresden. It was named the Semperoper (Opera House) after its creator. Rebuilt after a fire in 1878, it was destroyed in the bombing raids of February 1945. Carefully reconstructed to Semper’s plans, it opened again in 1985. Tonight we went there for a symphony concert. First-rate conductor Tugan Sokhiev was conducting the Dresden Staatskapelle Orchestra, playing Dmitri Shostakovich”s Cello Concerto (soloist Sol Gabetta) and Anton Bruckner’s Symphony No. 7, one of our favourites.

    The hall was splendid, the evening calm, with a pearly afterglow that made a magical backdrop for these buildings out of a fairytale. The Semperoper is worth visiting just for itself.

    The young woman cellist played with talent and energy. Her gown distracted more than a little from the music - it looked like a shower curtain with see-through sides and back. Male soloists aren’t expected to display their torsos while playing; I don’t see why woman soloists should be expected to display flesh as well as talent. (Neil: I don’t mind!)

    The Bruckner symphony was a revelation. Bruckner can come across as monumental and heavy, but Sokhiev’s reading was inspiring from the first notes. Power, tenderness, deep feeling, rich orchestral textures; driving rhythms and shimmering veils of sound. The performance blew us away. Not just us! The applause rolled on for ten minutes. Altogether a special occasion, and one we will remember with great pleasure.
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  • Saxon Switzerland & Königstein Fortress

    21 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today started badly! We took a taxi to the meeting point for our trip to Saxon Switzerland, and just after the taxi had gone I discovered that my backpack (with food and my iPad) was still in the taxi’s boot. Marie Thérèse was gold: she tracked down the taxi company, and they contacted the driver. Unfortunately he already had another fare, and I watched my iPad (with Find My Devices) moving around central Dresden as we left the city. After about an hour my phone said the backpack was at our hotel. Phew!!

    Our two storey bus (we were on the top with great views) took us through some beautiful villages and countryside, everything very green and springlike. The driver’s commentary was an apparently excellent, but it was a real challenge to our German language skills. I got the occasional word and phrase, but relied on Marie Thérèse to keep us up with most of the play. This really upset a woman a couple of seats in front of us, glaring, “Shhh!”, and a face like the old Whitby Lakes lady that I beat with a couple of 7-letter words at Scrabble!

    The Geopark “Saxon Switzerland gets its name from groups of amazing 10-million year old sandstone formations. There are cliffs more than half a kilometre high! It was a Swiss artist may years ago who first coined the phrase “Saxon Switzerland!.”

    Sandstone was quarried here, and transported via the Elbe River for buildings not only in Dresden, and also in Berlin.

    One of the interesting features of this sandstone is that it naturally develops a black coating. As the stone weathers, magnesium salts in the stone cover the stone, and being harder than the sandstone, they protect it.

    Back in the bus, we headed for a huge fortress in the area, the Festung Königstein (“KingRock”). This enormous castle has a commanding view of the Elbe River which flows past it, as well as the surrounding geography. Today the Fortress is reached easily by a “Panorama” (management’s word) lift - much easier than the endless stairs.

    We really enjoyed our visit - we walked right round the walls which are staggering in height.
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  • Farewell Dresden, Hello Paris

    22 Mei, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We made an early start - two flights today: Dresden to Munich; Munich to Paris.

    We were sorry to say goodbye to Dresden. There was so much more we could have seen, given time. August the Strong left a string of picturesque palaces and castles along the Elbe that would have been fun to visit. But we certainly did well out of our few days, in terms of superb Baroque architecture, amazing sculpture and paintings, a fantastic concert, and eye-popping natural beauty.

    Dresden has done much, since German reunification in 1989, to repair the utter devastation of the February 1945 firestorm. But a sadness still haunts its open spaces, like the Wettiner Platz outside our hotel. A church once stood where there are now uneven humps of grass, and a scattering of young trees. All that remains of the church are the doors, left standing as a memorial.

    Many German cities endured fearful bombing - Hamburg, Cologne, Berlin for a start - but the destruction of Dresden in the last months of the war, holding a unique concentration of artistic treasure and iconic monuments to civilisation, was contentious , even at the time. The city was crammed with refugees fleeing the Russian advance. Historians and strategists have argued over it ever since. Russian composer Dmitri Shostakovich’s “Dresden” Quartet no 8 in C Minor and American Science Fiction writer Kurt Vonnegut ’s Slaughterhouse 5 were directly inspired by it. Vonnegut was an American prisoner of war in Dresden at the time,, drafted with other POWs to search the rubble and bury the dead.

    We had time in Munich Airport for a last lunch of delicious German sausages and the speciality breads they do so well. Then it was off to Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris. This has winding perspex tubes snaking hither and yon, like the moving staircases of Hogwarts. The Paris taxi drivers were on strike, but we managed after some delay to make it to our hotel. This was converted from an old apartment building, very stylish with high ceilings, small but elegant rooms, and the world’s smallest lift, just big enough for Neil and me if we don’t turn around., After our long day of travel we went for a walk in the late afternoon. The French restaurants hadn’t opened yet, but we found an Italian pizza place where we could enjoy pizza and watch the world go by while sipping a glass of white wine. On the way back we found a shop which sold specialty éclairs. Buy three and get one free! Just the thing for dessert!

    On our way back we made two more discoveries: a Gothic church of St Leu - St Gilles, dating back to 1235, still being used for Mass; and a charming local park , the Square Émile-Chautemps, created in 1858 as part of the great urban redevelopment scheme of Emperor Napoleon III and his architect Baron Haussmann. This held pretty ornamental ponds, statues,, fountains, walkways and sheltering trees. Modern additions include a playground, a table-tennis table and a petanque court, in use while we were there.

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