Sur le Pont d’Avignon

We treated ourselves to a lazy morning with a lovely breakfast after yesterday’s travel. Right outside the window stood an important-looking building with a dome and columns, topped with a classical vase straight out of Ancient Rome. Next to it, on the ledge, a plump little cherub with turned-in toes peeked down at the passers-by with a look of mischief. Painted inside the window-frame of the much older building nearby, a medieval scholar sat at a table with his books and his dinner..

As we walked up to the Palace of the Popes there were buildings with iron grilles and old wooden shutters, dating back to the days when Avignon was part of the Catalan (non-French) lands. The Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) flies three flags: European Union, French, and the Catalan flag of yellow and red. All street signs are in French and Occitan, the language of Catalonia..

Most impressive are the walls and towers from the MIddle Ages. In the fourteenth century, six popes lived here in the huge Palace of the Popes., a massive complex of honey-coloured stone which was the Head Office of the Papacy, with some 1500 religious and lay (non-ordained) officials. The Papacy moved to Avignon in 1309 when Clement V sought the protection of the French monarchy from rebellions in Rome.

We had explored the Palace already in 2010, when we were younger and nimbler and more ready to cope with its 400 steps. It’s a jaw-dropping site, designed by the best architects of its age as a combined palace and fortress.

Today we went instead to Notre Dame des Doms (cathedral) next door, and the famous bridge. This bridge of St Bénézet was built to join the palace with the residences of the Cardinals on the other side of the river Rhône. It was very popular because it was the only crossing of the river from Avignon to the sea. It was a remarkable piece of engineering for its time, but unfortunately wars and the river’s strong tidal flow swept much of the bridge away, leaving only the remaining four arches and the folk song we know.

Walking back down town, we found the perfect haven from the sun - an ice-cream shop with a broad verandah where we could sit in the shade. I tried a lavender ice-cream - it was exquisite. There was a lively market in the square,, with a huge carousel, Back home to put our feet up as we had a five-hour long car tour with guide booked for the afternoon.Leia mais