• Jessica Lemmo
  • Jessica Lemmo

France 2026

Planes, trains, automobiles… and 286k steps through a record French heatwave. Over 17 days and 8,262 miles, we wandered from Riviera blues to Paris gold. Sweating, laughing, and exploring from beaches to boulevards—France, you were magic. ✨ Read more
  • Trip start
    June 16, 2026
  • Day 1

    June 17 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Andy and the boys picked me up from the last day of school, and off we went to Philly to catch our red‑eye to Nice. Fast‑forward to this morning: four very sleepy travelers touching down on the Riviera and deciding to power through like champs.

    We wandered along the beach, explored the colorful twists and turns of Old Town, people‑watched like it was our job, and grabbed lunch while waiting for our little apartment to be ready. And when I say little, I mean tiny‑charming‑tucked‑in‑a‑narrow‑alleyway tiny — the kind of place that makes you feel like you’re living inside a postcard.

    After being awake for 24+ hours, we declared pastries and a baguette is a perfectly acceptable dinner. Now it’s 8 p.m. in Nice (2 p.m. back home), the boys are already asleep, and Andy and I are fading fast.

    A long day, a soft landing, and the sweetest start to our family adventure.
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  • Day 2

    June 18 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We finally caught up on sleep and had a late start, but once we made it to the beach we swam, we lounged, and we had the most perfect little picnic of focaccia sandwiches and Orangina right on the pebbles of the beach.

    Afterward, we wandered the Promenade, and did a bit of shopping, Dinner was at Mi Casa an Argentinian spot we all loved, and then we made the very important pilgrimage to Glacier Fenocchio — where I’m convinced they have over 100 flavors of ice cream and sorbet.

    Somewhere between ordering food and chatting with shopkeepers, I realized it’s been a little over 30 years since I last visited France on a high‑school trip… and somehow my French has come back to me enough that I’ve even been ordering some in French, which feels like a tiny personal victory tucked into this big family adventure.

    We ended the night with a stop at the local market for cheese, butter, a baguette, pastries, Orangina, and a bottle of wine to bring back to our little apartment. A simple, sweet end to a sun‑soaked day on the Riviera.

    *check out the picture that I circled our apartment that the door from the alley is right in between tables at a restaurant 🤪

    Tomorrow we are off to Italy for the day!
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  • Day 3

    June 19 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We hopped on a morning train into Italy and headed straight for Ventimiglia, where the Friday market felt like it stretched on forever. We wandered the stalls, sampled a traditional cannoli and an orange cannoli (because vacation rules), and explored the town before grabbing lunch at Stella Pizzeria Ristorante Bar for pizza.

    Andy and Caleb went classic with Margherita, Jacob tried the Giorgia, and I had the Quattro Stagioni — all delicious, all devoured in minutes.

    From there, we jumped back on the train and crossed into France again to explore Menton, the last coastal stop before Italy and the town famous for its lemons, lemon groves, and of course, limoncello. Its hilly medieval old town winds up toward the beautiful Basilique Saint‑Michel and its 18th‑century bell tower — such a postcard‑perfect place.

    We bought a small bottle of local limoncello for the trip and cooled off with the most incredible fresh lemonade slushies. Pure sunshine in a cup.

    After squeezing onto an overly packed train back to Nice, we freshened up and ended the night with dinner at Le Bistrot de Jeff — capped off with an unforgettable pine‑nut crème brûlée.
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  • Day 4

    June 20 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Day four took us east on the train to Antibes, where we spent the morning swimming, relaxing on the beach, and admiring the kind of yachts and sailboats that make you wonder who’s living their best life on board. We wandered through more of those pretty alleyways and flower‑covered corners — because at this point it’s clear I have a full‑blown obsession with European alleys.

    Lunch was simple and perfect: a ham‑and‑cheese baguette, a pain au chocolat, and a slice of apple tarte that we all shared. Then we hopped back on the train and headed to Cannes to walk around and explore for a bit before making our way back to Nice.

    Dinner was at Beirut Grill House, a Lebanese spot where we also caught some of the Netherlands vs. Sweden game, which made the boys very happy. On the walk home, we stopped at Crêperie Suzette for dessert and cappuccinos — the perfect ending to a full, sunny day on the Riviera.
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  • Day 5

    June 21 in France ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Day five took us back on the train, this time to Villefranche‑sur‑Mer, where we spent time swimming and relaxing at the beach. After soaking up the sun, we wandered through the little alleyways and stopped for lunch at Elliott ’n Bobbie’s, where we had surprisingly amazing burgers and fries.

    Back in Nice, we tackled a few loads of laundry and hung everything out to dry like the locals (no dryers here!), which honestly felt kind of charming.

    For Father’s Day dinner, we headed to Tigermilk for Mexican — margaritas for the grown‑ups (the Margarita Azteca was a hit) and Carne Asada and a cheesy birria quesadilla that disappeared fast. And because we take dessert seriously on vacation, we shared a Moussechacho, a Tiramisu Maracuja, and a Brioche Perdue — all so good.

    After dinner, we wandered toward the beach and found the whole city buzzing for Fête de la Musique 2026 — a huge, nationwide celebration where musicians, DJs, and bands fill the streets, beaches, and plazas with free music. It happens all over France on June 21, and Nice was absolutely alive. People were picnicking, swimming, dancing, and soaking up the last light of the day.

    As the sun set, the party really kicked in — DJs on the beach, bands tucked into alleyways, music drifting from restaurants and corners everywhere you turned. It felt like the whole city was celebrating together, the perfect ending to a full, sunny day.
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  • Day 6

    June 22 in Monaco ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Day six had us back on the train again — this time to Monaco, another country checked off the list. We started at the Atrium of the Casino de Monte‑Carlo, all marble and old‑world glamour. Walking around, it’s easy to see why Monaco has always drawn such big personalities — Grace Kelly included — though the city feels much more lived‑in and modern than the picture‑perfect version you see in old photos.

    From there, we wandered down to parts of the Monaco Grand Prix route, where crews were still taking down the stands from last month’s race. Then we headed to the Cars Collection of H.S.H. the Prince of Monaco, which was such a fun stop — everything from vintage classics to Formula 1 cars lined up like the coolest history lesson ever.

    Next came the climb. And by climb, I mean the hill that felt like a full‑on mountain leading up to the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco. The museum sits right on the cliffside, looking out over the harbor, and the views were absolutely worth every step. We grabbed gyros and had a little picnic on a bench overlooking the city — simple, perfect, and very needed on a hot day.

    Back in Nice, we did a little shopping and headed to the apartment to cool off. It was one of those long, sun‑soaked days where easy dinners win, so we grabbed focaccia sandwiches again to eat at home. And of course, we stopped for French pastries and macarons to share for dessert.

    Tomorrow is our last full day in Nice.
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  • Day 7

    June 23 in France ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Day seven took us on a bus ride up into the hills to Èze, a tiny medieval village perched high above the coast. It’s one of those places that feels frozen in time — narrow stone pathways, old archways, little shops tucked into corners, and views that make you stop without meaning to.

    We started with a tour at Fragonard, the perfume factory in Èze, where we learned how fragrances are made and smelled about a hundred things I now want to bring home. After that, we wandered our way up through the village, exploring the winding medieval streets and soaking in the views.

    Then came the hike — the Nietzsche Path, which takes you from Èze‑Village all the way down to the train station by the sea. It’s steep, rocky, and definitely a workout, but the scenery is incredible the whole way down. By the time we reached the bottom, we felt like we’d earned every carb in France.

    Back in Nice, we packed up and started getting ready for tomorrow’s bullet train to Paris. We also spent some time figuring out backup plans since a few of our tickets and attractions are being canceled or closing early because of the heatwave. Not ideal, but we’ll make it work.
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  • Day 8

    June 24 in France ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    Day 8 was mostly a travel day as we took the bullet train from Nice to Paris. Because of the heatwave, the train couldn’t run at full speed, so the ride was a little slower than usual — but honestly, it gave us time to nap and watch the French countryside roll by. Picture rolling hills, tiny villages, flower fields, and those classic stone farmhouses you imagine when someone says “rural France.”

    We did get the disappointing news that our Louvre reservation was canceled since they had to close early for the heat.
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  • Day 9

    June 25 in France ⋅ ☁️ 39 °C

    Day 9 started strong with the Eiffel Tower, all the way to the summit. The tower has three levels, and the summit is the highest you can go — with 360° views of the entire city. We were lucky our time slot was one of the last allowed up before they stopped sending people to the top because of the heat. The boys loved seeing how tiny everything looked from up there, and the breeze at the top was nice.

    From there, we headed to the Arc de Triomphe, which sits in the middle of the massive Place Charles de Gaulle. Twelve different avenues all feed into the same giant traffic circle — no lanes, no rules, just pure chaos. It’s exactly the kind of scene that makes you think of the Griswolds in European Vacation.

    We spent the afternoon wandering around Paris until our final stop: the Catacombs. The entrance looks unassuming, but once you head down the spiral staircase, you’re suddenly in a network of tunnels lined with the bones of millions Parisians. The way they’re arranged is eerie and fascinating at the same time. It’s one of those experiences that sticks with you.
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  • Day 10

    June 26 in France ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Day 10 started with a tour of the PSG Stadium — Paris Saint‑Germain, the city’s beloved football club. We walked through the locker rooms, went down the players’ tunnel, and stood right on the edge of the pitch.

    From there, we wandered toward the Louvre. Even though our reservation was canceled and there were no tickets left for the rest of our trip, we still wanted to see the courtyard and the pyramid. From there, we passed the Paris Olympic torch, a leftover from the 2024 Paris Olympics.

    We crossed Pont Neuf bridge, which is currently transformed into an art installation that looks like a cave. The artist covered the bridge in textured, rock‑like material so walking across it feels like stepping into a carved stone tunnel — definitely one of those unexpected Paris moments.

    For lunch, we grabbed the viral Le Petit Vendôme jambon‑beurre, and yes, it really is as simple and perfect as everyone says. After some shopping, we headed back to the hotel to cool off before heading out again.

    In the evening, we grabbed dinner and joined the locals to watch part of the Paris vs. Norway match. We made our way back to the room and finished the rest of the game there.
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  • Day 11

    June 27 in France ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Day 11 started at the Vanves Flea Market, one of Paris’s two big weekend marchés. It’s rows of vendors selling everything from vintage posters and old cameras to linens, silverware, and quirky antiques you didn’t know you needed. It’s been running since the 1920s and has that perfect mix of treasure‑hunting and people‑watching.

    From there, we headed to the Latin Quarter for lunch at Rôtisserie Segar to try their famous chicken Caesar sandwich — absolutely worth the hype. We also tried their chocolate mousse, which was amazing even for someone (me) who isn’t a big chocolate person. Being back in those cute, winding alleyways felt so classic‑Paris.

    Next, we made our way to Notre Dame, arriving just as the service ended and the bell tower tolled for nearly 15 minutes, starting at 12:15 pm. On the walk over, we stopped by something really special — the oldest tree in Paris, a locust tree planted in 1601, still standing strong in Square René‑Viviani right across from the cathedral. It leans a little and is held up by supports now, but it’s incredible to think it has survived wars, revolutions, and centuries of Paris life.

    We continued walking and eventually ended up at a huge shopping mall that was absolutely packed — easily the busiest mall I’ve seen in years. And of course, I had to check out the book section because I love seeing how popular titles look in other countries. Along the way, we passed several centuries‑old churches tucked between modern storefronts, which is one of my favorite things about Paris.

    We had an early dinner at Au Bourguignon du Marais so we could get back to the hotel early — tomorrow is our big Versailles day. But naturally, we stopped for gelato on the way back to help cool off.

    Thankfully, today marked the end of the worst of the heatwave, and tomorrow is “only” supposed to be in the upper 80s instead of the upper 90s and triple digits we’ve had.
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  • Day 12

    June 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Day 12 was our big day at the Château de Versailles, and it truly lives up to its reputation. The palace was the home of Louis XIV, the Sun King, and later Louis XV and Louis XVI — the center of French royal life until the Revolution. Inside, every room feels like a performance: soaring ceilings, gold everywhere, painted frescoes, and details so ornate you wonder how long it took someone to carve each swirl and leaf.

    Last night’s massive storm finally broke the heatwave, and we felt the difference the moment we stepped outside. The lightning was wild — I even read it struck the Eiffel Tower a couple of times — and the wind was so strong it blew our metal shutters open, clanging so loudly I thought a window might crack. But the payoff was a blissfully cool morning: overcast skies, a steady breeze, and temperatures that felt like a gift after the triple‑digit “melt‑everything” heat we’ve had. Even when the sun came out around noon, it never reached the unbearable intensity of the past week.

    Out in the gardens, everything felt calmer and greener after the storm. The fountains, the long tree‑lined paths, and the geometric flowerbeds were gorgeous. And then came one of the funniest parts of the day: we comically rented a rowboat on the Grand Canal. The canal itself is massive — built in the 1600s to host royal boating parties — and let’s just say our rowing skills were… enthusiastic but questionable. There were zigzags, near‑misses, and plenty of laughing as we tried to look like we knew what we were doing.

    After a long day exploring the palace and grounds, we headed to My Noodle, a Chinese restaurant that makes their noodles fresh. The food was incredible — so good that we all started eating before remembering to take pictures. We were starving, we over‑ate, and by the end we joked that we might need to be rolled back to the hotel.
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  • Day 13

    June 29 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 13 started at the Panthéon, the grand neoclassical monument in the Latin Quarter where France honors its most important figures. Some of the best‑known people laid to rest here include Voltaire (philosopher of the Enlightenment), Jean‑Jacques Rousseau (author of The Social Contract), Victor Hugo (author of Les Misérables), Émile Zola (leader of the Dreyfus Affair’s defense), Alexandre Dumas (author of The Three Musketeers), Marie Curie (pioneer of radioactivity), Pierre Curie (Nobel‑winning physicist), Jean Moulin (WWII Resistance leader), and Joséphine Baker (civil rights activist and performer).

    From there, we headed to the Conciergerie, once part of the medieval royal palace and later the infamous prison of the French Revolution. More than 2,700 prisoners, including Marie‑Antoinette (last queen of France), were held, tried, and condemned here before being sent to the guillotine. You can still see the vast Gothic halls and the reconstructed cell where she spent her final days.

    Next was Sainte‑Chapelle, built in the 1240s by King Louis IX to house the Crown of Thorns. It’s one of the greatest achievements of Rayonnant Gothic architecture, famous for its soaring stained‑glass windows — more than 1,100 biblical scenes that make the upper chapel feel like a jewel box made entirely of light.

    We grabbed a late lunch at Specimen, another Paris hit — amazing burgers and a Frozen Mezcal Cocktail that absolutely lived up to its reputation. No joke, that drink could probably power a small scooter.

    After lunch, we explored Église Saint‑Sulpice, the second‑largest church in Paris. Construction began in 1646 and continued for over two centuries, which explains its mix of Baroque and classical styles. It’s known for its massive Great Organ (one of the most famous in Europe), its astronomical gnomon (used to track the sun), and its strikingly asymmetrical twin towers (unfinished due to the Revolution).

    We started making our way back to the hotel, grabbed some drinks and snacks, and the boys picked up pizza. Andy and I are heading out for a little date night.
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  • Day 14

    June 30 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 14 was our Disneyland Paris day. We managed to get on most of the rides we actually cared about, which felt like a small victory considering the crowds. It’s interesting seeing how things differ between Disney in the U.S. and the international parks - Same magic, slightly different personality.

    After a full day of Disney energy, we headed back into the city for a night cruise on the Seine. Paris at night from the water hits differently — the bridges lit up, people sitting along the riverbanks, the whole city glowing in that soft gold.
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  • Day 15

    July 1 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Day 15

    Day 15 started with a behind‑the‑scenes tour of Roland‑Garros, which was honestly even cooler than I expected. We learned about the history of the stadium — built in 1928 for France’s Davis Cup team and named after Roland Garros, the pioneering aviator. The tour took us through the press room, the player locker rooms, and the quiet little corridors players walk through right before stepping onto the courts.

    We even got to watch Moïse Kouamé, who’s only 17 and already competing professionally, practicing on Philippe‑Chatrier, the main show court. He played in this year’s French Open, entering the junior draw and making a solid run — one of those young players people are starting to pay attention to. Watching him train on an empty Chatrier, with every shot echoing through the stadium, felt surreal. They’ve also just started hosting a summer tournament that runs into August, so we caught part of a men’s match before heading out.

    From there, we went back to Notre‑Dame, this time to actually go inside and explore. It’s impossible to walk in without thinking about the 2019 fire — seeing the cathedral restored and reopened. The interior is bright and breathtaking, and the stained‑glass windows look absolutely incredible now that they’ve been cleaned and restored. It’s one of those places where you just stand still for a minute and take it in.

    Next stop was the Paris Mint shop so we could add a few pieces to the coin collection — always a fun little tradition.

    For our final French dinner, we went to La Jacobine, which was the perfect ending. Since the weather finally decided to behave, we ordered French onion soup (no pictures because it disappeared instantly). We also had Tajine de Poulet Fermier, Cuisse de Canard du Sud‑Ouest, and Coq au Vin — all so good it made us wish we had one more night here just to eat it again.

    After eating, it was back to the hotel to sadly pack for our flight back to the USA tomorrow — the part of the trip nobody ever looks forward to.
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  • Trip end
    July 2, 2026