Exploring Santiago 2 - the cathedral

After lunch and a quick glass of Radler, it was time for me to fulfil one of the pilgrim’s traditional “obligations” after completing a pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago. I needed to give St James a hug and visit his tomb or reliquary.

Yet another entrance to the cathedral is used to gain access to a side door to the chancel, from which you can reach a narrow stairway leading to the camarín (a small room or chapel) directly behind the larger than life size statue of St James which forms part of the huge altarpiece at the ceremonial centre of the cathedral. The statue is made of polychrome stone and said to be carved by Master Mateo, who was also responsible for the Portico of Glory. He wears a silver cloak which was last replaced in 2004 (with a replica of the then 300 year old cloak).

Pilgrims are invited to embrace St James (or at least this statue) from the back, as a way of giving him thanks for the transformative journey on the Camino. Pilgrims have done so since the completion of the cathedral in the early 13th century.

Next it was time to follow the line of pilgrims down from the camarín and then down another short staircase to St James’s Tomb which lies directly beneath the statue and altar, and behind a metal gate.

Having paid homage to St James, I was then able to have a proper look around the rest of the inside of the cathedral. Despite the baroque additions (and especially the spires), the majority of the cathedral building was constructed in the 12th century, with Master Mateo’s completion of the western end (with the Portico of Glory) in the first decades of the 13th century.

The chancel (and organ) is much more recent and very ornate and richly decorated mostly in gold, but the rest of the church is, by comparison, very plain and yet beautiful and graceful.

As you’ll see from the photos, you can see part of the Portico of Glory from the nave - ie from the wrong side as it were (and this is the only place the public can take photos). In addition, you can see the kneeling figure on the back of the central column, known as ‘Santo dos croques’ (head bumps) who is thought to be a representation (and possible self-portrait) of Master Mateo, the lead architect and master mason.

One of the unusual features of the cathedral is the Botafumeiro, a huge 1.49m tall censer used to spread incense around the cathedral, at special services and occasionally at other times. It is said that such a large censer was required to counter the smell of the ancient pilgrims (even after washing at Lavacolla!) The botafumeiro hangs 65m below the central crossing, just in front of the main altar. When used, 8 “tiraboleiros” give the botafumeiro a push and then pull on (and then, successively, play out) the rope to get it swinging back and forth through the 2 transepts (the shorter arms of the cross-shaped building). The botafumeiro is said to reach speeds of 60-70 km/h! I’ll talk later about the mass I attended, where unfortunately the botafumeiro wasn’t deployed, but one of my friends saw it in action on Friday - and took the video clip.Leer más