Barcelinhos to Vitorino: A good day (and evening!)

I left my albergue at just before 8, and crossed the bridge from Barcelinhos to Barcelos, in search of breakfast. Thankfully, it was a little cooler then.

I found somewhere in the old city and liked the sound of “tosta ovos mexidos”, which I guessed might be Mexican eggs and which sounded good. However it turned out to be scrambled eggs on toast, which were very good.

I stopped for a little while at the octagonal Igreja do Senhor Bom Jesus da Cruz de Barcelos (the Church of the Good Jesus of the Cross) which commemorates a miraculous black earthen cross reported at the site in December 1504. The current church was built in the early 18th century.

As I neared the edge of Barcelos where the Camino branched off into the countryside, a fellow pilgrim caught up with me, a Dutchman from near Maastricht. He turned out to have stayed the same albergue last night, although we’d not actually spoken properly.

Even more of a coincidence was that he was also heading to the same albergue for tonight: the legendary hospitality at Casa da Fernanda. In fact, my new friend had stayed there at least 11 times already! This albergue only has about 14 beds and so it is usually vital to have booked a little in advance- which I had!

My Dutch friend and I walked together for most of the day, sharing stories of the Caminos (he usually walks at least 2 Caminos every year). He said he couldn’t always remember the hills or precise directions, but he knew exactly where all the bars are!

Today’s path involved one long hill (not v high at all) and fortunately there was a convenient bar just at the top, where we sought cold drinks and a welcome rest for our feet, and a chance to take off our backpacks.

Early in the afternoon, as the heat returned, we met 2 Californian pilgrims, who were also booked with Fernanda, and the four of us walked together for the last hour or so of the journey.

When we arrived finally at Casa da Fernanda, we were all pretty bushed by the heat and very shade, but it had been much easier walking whilst concentrating on our conversations.

Fernanda was ready to distribute ice cold water, and even water with sugar and salt for those most in need of electrolytes.

We checked in one by one, and were shown to our rooms. Most of us were in the communal room (no bunks and proper sheets etc), and the Californians and the Dutchman each had private rooms.

Once unpacked, showered and clothes washed, we gathered in the lounge area in the shade under a large lean-to. There we found large jugs of Sangria and White wine, plus beers more chilled water.

Once most of the day’s pilgrims had arrived, Fernanda appeared with a large platter of Padron peppers and cod fish cakes.

By dinner time, there were 2 Brits (me and a young woman from London), the 2 Californians, a Texan (who’d been born in Coventry), a lady from New York, 2 ladies from Israel (who’d only met the day before), 4 Canadian ladies (from Ontario, Vancouver and Winnipeg), and Italian man and the Dutchman.

Fernanda and Jacinto (Fernanda’s husband) called us over to the large dining table along one side of the lean-to.

We shared a delicious chicken and bean dish, a vegetable curry and some fish dish (which I didn’t try), plus tomatoes, rice and bread. And lots more wine and water.

Once we’d eaten and the plates were cleared away, Fernanda brought bottles of Tawny and White Port to the table.

Fernanda then led us in a prayer, before the lights were extinguished and Jacinto brought a cake with lit candles for the birthday of one of the Canadian ladies. We then sang Happy Birthday and equivalent songs in each language represented (and led by those who spoke each language).

Next Fernanda appeared with a guitar, hoping one of our number could play. Alas, no one had such skills and so Jacinto appeared with a karaoke speaker and bundle of printed song lyrics. We resorted to Spotify, with the entertaining result that the printed words didn’t always match the recordings being played!

After several songs in English, we sang several Italian, Spanish and Portuguese songs, mostly led our Italian DJ and lead dancer, who with Fernanda’s help got most of us dancing in the garden, while a few of us stayed at the table with one or two more glasses of port or wine.

Eventually, it was time for us all to turn in!Read more