• WheresWally
May – Jun 2023

GIBB CHALLENGE & KIMBERLEYS 23

A sojourn north to participate in the Gibb Challenge bike event ( https://thegibbchallenge.com.au/ ) and explore the Kimberleys thereafter. Read more
  • Trip start
    May 3, 2023

    OVERVIEW

    April 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    The primary focus of the trip is to participate in the Gibb Challenge 2023 as a team entry. (http://www.thegibbchallenge.com.au )

    After the ride several of us plan to travel back down the Gibb Road and spend a couple of weeks exploring all the gorges, waterfalls, walks etc.

    I plan to post something every couple of days or so, and as the mobile coverage allows.

    The ride is over 5 days, covering about 630 km. It's not a race, but a fundraising event, embracing about 400-500 people, 300+ being cyclists, either soloists, duos or team riders. The beneficiary is the RFDS, a super worthy cause. The event is in about it's 20th year and raises $500K -$600 annually.

    Our team is The Dubai Globalistas. A couple of us heard of the event whilst living in Dubai, and decided it had to be done. It has taken us about 6 years to get on board. COVID intervention and border closures being our main stumbling block. All the riders are ex-residents of Dubai, or with a strong connection to the UAE, hence the name. The team:
    Issy Montouri
    Dave Montouri
    Amy Rolf
    Juergen Otte
    Gordon Duzevich
    Chris Walter
    Mike Walter
    And our Support Team is Judy Duzevich.

    Amy and Juergen are flying in from the USA for the event.

    Anyone wishing to make a contribution can do so at:
    https://www.mycause.com.au/p/305003/dubai-globa…
    And anyone donating $100 or more to my fund goes into the draw ( after the event!) for a bottle of Veuve Clicquot. Thanks in anticipation.

    Happy Dayz!
    Read more

  • ON THE ROAD AGAIN! Wooramel Station.

    May 3, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Day 1. 0630/1700. 800Km

    After 2 days of panic prep and burning the midnight oil cooking up frozen meals to store in the Engel freezer, we departed the North Cott Bubble pre dawn.
    Thank goodness for a very comprehensive 4 WD checklist. So far haven’t missed anything - yet!
    Co driving with brother Chris and in convoy with Judy and Gordon Duzevich. Originally we were planning on a roadside pull-in stop at Galena Bridge on the Murchison River, but deferred to delaying our departure for a day, and then putting a big day on the road straight thru to Wooramel Station stay.
    Coffee stop at Jurien Bay and lunch at the Northampton Cafe. A very acceptable pork pie and a fruit cocktail juice, satiated the hunger pangs.
    Just prior to Northampton we took a 7km deviation into Coronation Beach. Chris was keen to check it out for kite surfing reasons. A good set-up. Camp park with drop toilets. He’ll be back!
    Two years on from Cyclone Seroja ripping thru Northampton, the damage is still very apparent. Recovery is obviously very slow. Must be very hard getting trades people, especially in a rural area.
    A very good mural like display shows all the recent AFL players who came from the region, including Josh Kennedy. Must be a very healthy local competition.
    Arrived at Wooramel at 5 pm in good time to set up camp before sunset. An attractive setup along the banks of the Wooramel River. An enjoyable feature is the thermal bathing pools. A nice way to follow up a long day in the saddle. Especially with a cold frothie in hand.
    The station staff put on a camp dinner most evenings. Spit roast or something similar. Our menu was curry, lentils, rice and damper. Very acceptable. We quaffed one of the 2 dozen reds Chris has kindly contributed to the mission. I’m the beer baron on this trip. Plus port provider.
    Shared a table with a young couple from Victoria with a 7 yo son and a 4 yo daughter.
    They have been on the road since January, doing a 12 month big lap of Oz. They spent a fair amount of time in S Australia. They said they particularly liked the Flinders Ranges, and specifically Wilpena Pound. All on my future bucket list.
    Ken Austin, a touring musician, was playing guitar and singing to the dinner audience from a stage under a big gum tree. He was pretty good too, real singalong music. Temperature was a very pleasant 22 degrees or so. Cruisey way to spend an evening. Went back to the vans, consulted the astronomy apps and did some star gazing. Super clear night with a near full moon. Pretty stunning. All the better for sipping on a DeBortoli port at the same time.
    Turned in at about 9:30 pm for a good night's sleep.

    Wooramel Station Campground. (4 star)

    https://www.wooramel.com.au/
    $30-/night, 2 persons
    Numerous, well spaces unpowered sites stretching out along the river bank. Toikets and warm ( thermal) showers. Catered camp kitchen: spit roasts, curry's etc. Cannot book for it. Served up at about 5:30-6:30.
    Fire pits available. BYO wood.
    Maybe a few powered sites available?
    Fair Telstra mobile reception.
    Read more

  • Exmouth

    May 4, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    May 4. Day 2

    Exmouth. 0900/1700. 485 KM

    A more leisurely start today, a significantly shorter driving distance. Headed up the NW Coastal Hwy (NWCH) to Carnarvon.

    We grabbed a coffee at the Post Office Coffee Stall and got the low down from the owner regarding fresh produce availability, as her dad is a grower. Subsequently we went to Morels and bought some fresh veggies, fresh guavas and some dried mangoes, amongst other things. And a frozen chocolate banana for good measure. Very tasty. Another good stop is Bum Baks. It’s also a comprehensIve provedore store. Fuelled up and headed for Exmouth. It was a lot warmer than Perth , heading towards Exmouth, about 36 deg at 4 pm. Stopped at the IGA on arrival and bought some chops, sausages and salad. Caught up with Julie and Paul Rumble after we had checked in. They are heading north too, for a road trip of about 3 months.
    A pleasant sit-around BBQ at Judy and Gords ensued . Perfect temperature, about 23 deg, negligible breeze and clear skies. A late-ish turn in, about 11pm from memory.

    RAC Caravan Park. Exmouth (4 stars)

    Spacious bays on fine gravel. Powered. Good amenities blocks and 2 swimming pools.
    Telstra: 2 bar reception
    WiFi: FOC Fair performance
    $60-/ngt (2 persons)
    Read more

  • Exmouth - Whale Shark Diving

    May 5, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    5 May. Day 3

    Whale Shark Diving trip - Exmouth

    Chris and I were picked up at 7am for a 30 minute mini van ride to the Tantabiddi Boat ramp. Then a 100m ferry in a tinnie to the Jazz II 52 ft launch.

    Just a few kms trip to a piece of inner reef for a practice swim and a snorkel acclimatisation. Some beautiful small fish and a turtle sighting, everyone ( 20 pax on board) was comfortable with the gear and the procedures for the whale shark swimming.

    Then only about 15 minutes cruising further out and we had our first encounter. A spotter plane directs the boat into the immediate area and the skipper does the rest from the fly bridge. 10 people at a time ( maximum allowed by Parks and Wildlife dept regulations) then jump in and swim alongside the whale shark. We had 6 encounters for the day, with two of the amazing fish. Both about 5m long. They range from 3m to 9m apparently. During the first two encounters it was had to keep up with them, even with flippers. The remaining 4 were much more sedate. They travel at varying depths from 3 m to 15m depth generally. They are not at all flustered by the boats and human interaction. And they have a beautiful serenity about then. They are the largest fish in the ocean. They are not a whale or a shark, they are fish. Little is known about any migratory habits or their breeding patterns.

    Lunch was served. Salad rolls, cake and fruit. Needed sustenance, as it’s hungry work!

    We them motored back into a lagoon area only a couple of kms from the boat ramp and had another snorkel dive on an area of very colourful coral. An amazing collection of very colourful fish. Saw a couple of turtles and a huge cod. As we pulled up anchor the skipper spotted a large tiger shark nearby. He motored over to it and it was not disturbed by the boat and we came within a boats length of it. Very impressive, probably about 4m long.

    Back on shore by 2:30. A fabulous experience.

    Went to the Whalebone Brewery for a very good pizza and a beer. Back to the vans for a cup of tea and small talk. I just couldn’t stay awake. It had been a big day in all regards.

    Here is a link to a good backgrounding video by one of the tour operators: https://youtu.be/GgF5rHEr8_o? si=frLIUj668JNDPgfm
    Read more

  • Exmouth - Bundegi Beach

    May 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    6 May. Day 4.

    Exmouth - “Free Day” - Bundegi Beach

    Executive decision to do a training ride, so we headed off at 7am. Found a bike trail aptly named the Dingo Trail that took us out to the Harold Holt Communication Base. The Americans built the base in the 1960’s. It’s one of 3 installations globally that facilitate submarine communications anywhere in the world. From a distance, and in photos, is not that impressive. It consists of about 13 towers and a base station. But then you realise that the building is 5 stories high and the towers are over 1000ft high. And there is over 58,000m of cabling involved in the aerial array, and the cable is about as thick as your leg.

    We continued on a few hundred metres to Bundegi Beach which has a neat beachside shack cafe. We had an obligatory coffee and then headed back to the caravan park, for a round trip total of 32km.

    Had a nice hot shower, did some laundry duties, and then for something completely different we drove back out to Bundegai Beach for brunch! The motivation was to catch up with a couple io Gordy’s surfing mates and their partners. I learnt all about Flite electrically powered surf boards from Bill who currently holds the world record for acumulative distance travelled!
    And Murray is about to fit a Boost Fin to his board. It's a mini electric prop that is part of
    the centre fin on the board that can give you a boost paddling for a wave or paddling back out to the break. Technology, it’s a wonderful thing!

    Anyway, had a very nice nasi goreng for brunch! Followed up with a very refreshing swim with the water temperature being pretty near perfect.

    As we were about to leave the car park Gordy wandered over to the fish cleaning bench where a guy was fileting several large Spangled Emperor. Gord scored the skeletons which contained the wings that still have plenty of meat on them. He subsequently grilled them for dinner on the Weber with olive oil, garlic and smidge of mayo. Combined with a salad Judy prepared and a Stella Bella Semillon Sauvignon Blanc compliments of Chris, we consequently dined par excellence!
    After doing the dishes it was a relatively early turn as we planned to depart about 7 in the morning.
    Read more

  • Whim Creek

    May 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    7 May. Day 5. Whim Creek.

    0700/1700. 670 KM

    Another longish day so an early start, on the road by 7am.

    After approximately an hour’s drive we pulled into Bellara Station. This is another station stay camp/caravan park on a working station. I had stayed here two years ago. It is great stop over. A rustic setting with character and interest. They are renowned for their scores. Last year they converted the old shearing shed into an enlarged and enhanced cafe and dining area. They have done a great job, plenty of character. And the scones are still very good!

    Shortly after rejoining the NW Coastal Highway we crossed over one of the emergency runways that are marked out on the various highways around the state, for critical emergency landings by the RFDS. In a conversation with an RFDS pilot a few years ago he told me they are used as a somewhat last resort, and that to maintain currency for the procedure each pilot has to do one training landing per year, at night, on one of these strips, and with only three lights positioned along one side of the road. A real “black hole, aircraft carrier“ type landing! Pretty challenging stuff.

    Pulled into Fortesque Roadhouse for a lunch stop. MYO ( make your own) salad roll, as Judy had bought some very good bread rolls from the bakery at Exmouth.

    Arrived at Whim Creek at 5 pm with just sufficient daylight left to set up camp. The hotel that has a lot of character, closed down a number of years ago. But it is supposed to be reopening. There is a caretaker in residence in a donga out the back somewhere who waters the lawn and cleans the solitary toilet. The old copper mine is visible about half a kilometre further back. Anyone is entitled to park up for the night in the gravel parking area and can use the toilet. A nice gesture by someone.

    Dinner consisted of Italian sausages and lamb chops on an open fire, accompanied by a salad, and a red of course. The fire was put to good use thereafter, along with a tawny port. How many hours can you idle away looking into the flames of an open fire, takking about nothing in particular? Plenty!

    Whim Creek pub parking area.
    FOC.
    One toilet available
    Telstra Mbl: 75%+ strength, 4 G
    Read more

  • Barn Hill Station Stay Camp Park

    May 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    8 May. Day 6. Barn Hill

    0800/1700. 610 KM

    Another significant day on the road, kilometre wise.

    Into Port Hedland for coffee and fuel. Murphy’s law, Monday the Silver Star Cafe is closed. It’s a converted rail car that was originally brought out from the US to serve as the Managers rail car on the original CRA ore line. Times have changed!

    Hedland is the largest tonnage port in the world, thanks to the iron ore shipments. Approximately $10-12 billion worth each month.

    Fueled up, diesel now north of $2-/litre. Suck it up!

    Passed through Pardoo on the highway. Cyclone Ilsa tore through here on April 13th destroying the roadhouse. So damaged, it won’t be rebuilt. Trees were completely stripped of leaves, branches ripped off and some trees completely uprooted. Winds in excess of 285 kph. Just south of the roadhouse all the remaining vegetation was flattened and leaning to the SW. Shortly afterwards similarly but leaning to the SE. In between, just a whirl in all directions. It was obvious where the eye of the cyclone had travelled.

    Stopped at Sandfire roadhouse for a sandwich for lunch. Had sufficient fuel to get thru to Broome. They now have a monopoly on fuel between Hedland and Broome and priced accordingly at $2:48/litre.
    Arrived at Barn Hill at 5pm, set up camp in the remaining daylight. We had bought a butterflied leg of lamb in Hedland so did a roast dinner on the Weber. Very acceptable. Pretty good finish to a good day.

    Barn Hill Station Stay Camp Park (4 star).

    $45-/night powered site ($35- unpowered).
    Basic but clean amenities.
    Cool and shady under extensive trees.
    Good cafe ( try the Vanilla Slices!).
    Telstra Mbl: patchy reception, but manageable.
    Read more

  • Barn Hill - Chill Day

    May 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    9 May. Day 7.

    Barn Hill. Chill day.

    A nice spot to chill for a day free of driving. Scenic coast abutted by thick green bush. This is a working cattle station. Reckon the only way to muster here would be by chopper.

    Had a couple swims and a walk on the beach. The day disappeared pretty quickly.
    Gordy tried his hand a fishing. A couple of bites but none caught.
    Stunning sunset, as is so many of them up here in the North.

    We had a Spaghetti Bolognese for dinner, compliments of Judy and Gord, and partook in a port beside a camp fire. Can’t do better than that!
    Read more

  • Broome

    May 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    10 May. Day 8.

    Broome. 0800/0945. 2HR:25 135KM

    A short run into Broome. Albeit a reasonably early start as a big list of chores to do in town.

    First up arranged to have a slow leak fixed on one of the tyres. 3 tyre repair places in town. First one closed, owner on jury duty, second one booked out for 8 days, 3rd one did it on two hours notice. 10 minutes and $88-, oh well, the joys of rural driving!

    Checked into the RAC Cable Beach CP and set up and settled in. Plenty of shade with big gum trees. Very acceptable. Then the 3 B’s: Bank, Bunnings and Beach.
    .
    Dined at Mr Saigon, needless to say a Vietnamese restaurant. All of us, plus John Date who had come up from Perth specially to see Juergs. Not yet though. He and Amy scheduled to fly in the next morning.

    RAC Broome Caravan Park (4 star)
    Nice and shady and very neat and tidy CP. 10 minute walk to Cable Beach.
    $55-/ngt for members
    Read more

  • Broome

    May 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    10 May. Day 8.

    Broome. 0800/0945. 2HR:25 135KM

    A short run into Broome. Albeit a reasonably early start as a big list of chores to do in town.

    First up arranged to have a slow leak fixed on one of the tyres. 3 tyre repair places in town. First one closed, owner on jury duty, second one booked out for 8 days, 3rd one did it on two hours notice. 10 minutes and $88-, oh well, the joys if rural driving!

    Checked into the RAC Cable Beach CP and set up and settled in. Plenty of shade with big gum trees. Very acceptable. Then the 3 B’s: Bank, Bunnings and Beach.
    .
    Dined at Mr Saigon, needless to say a Vietnamese restaurant. All of us, plus John Date who had come up from Perth specially to see Juergs. Not yet though. He and Amy
    scheduled to fly in the next morning.
    Read more

  • Broome - Chill and Catch up Day

    May 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    11 May Day 9.

    Broome. Chill and Catch-up Day

    A 5 minute walk to Cable Beach for a strole, a swim and a coffee. Temperature about 23 deg. Not a bad way to start the day. Back to the van and Chris and I had a very acceptable papaya we had bought in Carnarvon plus fresh limes which were the first pick off my tree Down South at Rivendell, after waiting about 8 years to fruit.

    Then off to Millie’s coffee shop around the corner to catch up with Judy, Gordy and their friends the Jackovichs. ( Jacko Surfboards). Then a big supermarket shop up that consumed part of the afternoon.

    Had dinner at a Thai restaurant, where the food was excellent. Dined with John Date and Sue. We were waiting for Amy and Juergs’s arrival. They had been delayed twice by Virgin out of Perth, and after travelling: Winneconne - Milwaukee - San Francisco - Singapore - Perth. Pathetic customer service. And there is a whole other story whilst they were killing time (9 hours, which became 12 hours) in Perth. They actually caught the train to my place at North Cott and chilled there. The weary travellers finally arrived at 9:30 pm and were ensconced in bed by 11:00, exhausted.
    Read more

  • Broome. Last day of Preparation

    May 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    12 May. Day 10.

    Broome. Last day of Preparation

    A compulsory walk and swim at Cable Beach a bit after sunrise. It certainly is an iconic beach. Almost endless. And then an obligatory coffee at Zanders. Breaky back at the van, then bike assembly and adjustments time. Juergs had bought his bike across from the US with him. It had gone astray on transit in San Fransisco, but was recovered before they left Singapore. Chris rode into town to find an air conditioned cafe to do some computer admin work. Amy, Juergs and I went into town to do a bit of the tourist bits. It’s a nice town where they have done a good job to recreate the Chinese and Japanese heritage.
    Pretty unique too. An airport and a jail right in the middle of town!

    At 4pm 4 of us participated in the Gibb warmup. A ride down Cable Beach to Gantheone Point and back, about 12 kms. We each won a prize in the participants raffle!
    It was then time for a frothie sundowner at Zander’s to take in the sunset. Needless to say it did not disappoint. Big yellow, orange then red glow. It was Amy and Juergs only opportunity to see a NW ocean sunset.

    We had a terrific team dinner at the Bali Hai, dining outside of course. Everybody together for the first time. A bit of team strategy talk especially relating to the big one on day one. The rest of the evening, very sociable banter.
    The food and service were excellent.
    Read more

  • Derby

    May 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    13 May. Day 11.

    Derby. 0945/1300. 225 KM.

    Albeit a short drive to Derby, we were up at 6 as we had a significant pack up due to the fact we are now 4 onboard in my car plus 4 persons baggage, all our travel gear and 3 bikes ( Chris and I to share mine). Done and dusted in an hour and a half. Pretty pleasing.

    Drove into town to sort out a racking issue with Juerg’s bike. We carried 3 bikes on the back of my van, Issy and Dave carried two on the back of their Triton and Gord’s bike travelled on a rack on the front of their caravan.

    Went to the Saturday Courthouse markets and had a mango smoothie and the likes of a nasi goreng for breakfast. Love Asian food! On the road to Derby before 10am, very comfortable, travel time wise.

    Hit the road and stopped off at the Prison Boab tree, just prior to Derby. Used as a holding cell mainly for errant Aboriginals. Rather barbaric times.

    Checked into the Dumbara Caravan Park at about 1pm and set up camp. Amy and Juergs jumped on the bikes and did a mini tourist reconnoiter, including the jetty. Big tides at Derby, one of the highest in the world, 10m plus at times.

    In the evening we had the event briefing at the Spinny - the Spinifex Hotel. All sorted, and a pretty acceptable pub meal of Barramundi. Bit of a rude shock, draught beers $15- each.

    A bigger shock when we got back to the caravan park. A couple of Aboriginal kids had broken into the AVan, done some damage doing so, and then stolen about $500- cash, my iPad, Kindle and spare iPhone. Spent the next 3 hours or so engaging with the police. Very obliging. Interesting watching the finger print dusting process. And also interesting getting the big picture on the diabolical situation from them. It’s that bad that when new police officers arrive in town the kids deliberately target them and do break ins on their residences! Then brag to their mates that they did the cops over! Gordy got a call from one of our officers at midnight to say one of the kids had been arrested and charged. He had been booked and charged with a previous offence committed that morning!

    That 3 hours with the police we were planning on last minute prep and pack as we have a 3:45am get up for a 5 o’clock start muster. Had also hoped to have some time to tidy up this blog and get it posted. Lack of time! Got to sleep about midnight.

    Dunbara Derby Caravan Park (3 star)
    OK facilities. A couple of km from the centre of town.
    $45-/ngt
    Telstra mobile reception good
    No internet.
    Read more

  • Imintji

    May 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    14 May. Day 12. 1st day of The Gibb Challenge ride.

    Imintji Community Campsite
    0530/1545 230KM

    Finally the big day has arrived. The 5 years or so of discussion, commitment, planning, Covid and border interventions has finally all come to fruition.

    The soloists and duos started at 5 :00am and we elected to take the earlier of the two start times for teams, 5:30 vs 6:00. We sent the birthday girl, Issy, out first and then followed by Amy. We started with 40 minute rotations to take advantage of the cool of the early morning and the initial 120 km approximately bitumen. It was about 22 deg at the start and the first two days maxed out at about 32 deg.

    Then at about the 45 km mark, BIG trouble!
    The hand brake on Gordy’s Range Rover locked on electrically and the car would not budge. We had to make the big decision to leave him and Judy there to sort it out. We felt so gutted for them. All over for them and Gordy didn't even get to ride!

    We pushed on, the guys doing their forty minutes worth and then reverted to 30 minute rotations as we left the bitumen and engaged with the gravel. Temperature was now north of 30 deg. We were now into a bit of rhythm and a routine.

    At about midday Big surprise. Judy and Gordy were back with us. He rang his son who he had bought the car from, and he said, Yes he had had the same problem. YouTube it! Lift this, push that and do a manual reset. Fixed! But not till having returned to Derby and arranged a lift back with a flat top transporter at a cost of $1000-. But saved by the the RAC membership.

    We were very conscious of our pace as we had a cut off at the 210km mark, 20km before the finish. But it became apparent we we on a good pace.

    Arrival Imintji was at 3:45, an hour and a quarter before our closeout target. Very
    chuffed. We had averaged 22kph for over 10 hours against a headwind, gravel with sand and corrugations and the temperature well into the 30’s.

    It's a fully catered event: breakfast and dinner, plus lunch packs. Because the sun sets at about 5:15 here, dinner is served at 6pm and people are in bed, generally, by 8pm. And it's a very slick operation in the cookhouse.
    Read more

  • Mt Elizabeth Station

    May 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    15 May. Day 13. 2nd day of The Gibb Challenge ride.

    Mt Elizabeth Station.

    0820/1515. 150 KM

    Breakfast at 6, lunch pack distribution at 6:30, the day’s ride and safety briefing at 7:00, and start for our group at 08:20. Chuffed, we are in the first group of team riders, thanks to our great effort yesterday.
    We settled into a roational routine and banged out the klicks. I lucked in an got a big downhill section on a bitumen fill in. Hammered it downhill topped out at just over 60kph. Finished up the section pulling into the Galvans Gorge carpark. We took a rest break and treked into the gorge and had a gorgeous swim, pun intended. Lots of water in the feeder creek, very picturesque indeed. Water temperature was probably about 23. Very refreshing, very dust relieving. Temporarily!

    Back on the bikes and after 116km total we hauled into the Mt Elizabeth finish point. Average about 23 kph, another credible team effort.

    Next up was a 30km drive into Mt Elizabeth Station. What we did not know was the fact the road had not been graded since the cessation of the wet season, which was in fact the day after Cyclone Ilsa came thru. A Broome resident on the ride said the transition was literally that, one day wet, next day dry, no humidity. The road was atrocious. Wash-aways, deep ruts, water crossings. Took about an hour to get in. Worth while once there. A wide open and grassed campsite with the requisite facilities. Another calorie loading dinner of ravioli and salad prepared by the BHVs - the Bloody Heroic Volunteers. Sunset is at about 5:15 up here. Dinner is served at 6pm and most people are in bed by 8pm.
    Read more

  • Ellenbrae Station

    May 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    16 May. Day 14. 3rd day of The Gibb Challenge ride.

    Ellenbrae Station. 0825/ 1535. 140KM

    Another early start as we had to renegotiate the horror track. We were filtered out in a schedule from the station, regrouped on the Gibb Rd and our group start was at 0825. Varying terrain with a fair amount of climbing. I scored the Three Bitches and their Boyfriend - 4 sharp climbs in about 6 km. It was 32 deg and a somewhat headwind. I was pretty tuckered out, but chuffed, as I had paced myself against some other riders before cresting the final hill and doing a transition and handing over to Gordy.

    We were now very comfortable with our driving techniques v v other Gibbster support teams. Likewise with radio technique on the dedicated UHF frequency.
    And our transitions ( rider changeovers ) were pretty slick too. We completed the 140 km by about 3:30 pm, for an average speed of 22kph. Another healthy performance by the team. The general opinion is that 50 km of this sort of riding is equivalent to about 100 km of road bike riding on bitumen.

    We pulled into a very pleasant campsite with a rustic and lush green convenience area. Best part, a swimming area down on the river a couple of hundred metres away. Best way to get rid of the dust, and very refreshing. Needless to say a frothie or two assisted well.

    The catering team were up to the task again and dinner was served at 6 pm. Sunset here is effectively about 5pm at this time of the year. And with no moon it is seriously dark, quick smart. But the stars are awesome. Haven't seen a cloud for don't know how long now.

    Another early night into bed, about 8 pm. Surprise, surprise.
    Read more

  • Home Valley Station

    May 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    17 May. Day 15. 4th day of The Gibb Challenge ride.

    Home Valley Station.

    0835/1520. 104 KM

    The same early get up and breakfast start today but we hit the road a little later as Simon (Simon Rimmer, the event organiser) had swapped the group start times around for the sake of equality.

    Best part of the day’s start was freshly baked scones, cream and jam and coffee at 5:30 am! Scones were care of the homestead staff, and were delicious. Coffee was barista’d by Callum and Nicole of Lucky Country Adventures. They donated all the profits from all the coffees to the RFDS. Callum also sent the hat around after he said he would shave off his mou and mullet and raised $3000- from that. Darned amazing.

    Our group start was at 0835. Today's ride relatively easygoing. Two rotations each rider saw us through for the day. The general inclination was downhill, especially the last few kilometres: a long, sweeping section of recently bituminised road. We stopped off at “Telstra Hill” part way down. So named because it is the only point along the GRR where you get Telstra mobile reception. But more importantly it offered stunning views across the valley towards Wyndam, and taking in the very scenic Cockburn Ranges. It’s also the confluence of 5 large rivers, including the Pentecost, that flow into the Cambridge Gulf.

    Just a few more klicks and we pulled into Home Valley Station. Another welcome relief night stop. Some shady campsites, a swimming pool, and a large bar and dining area aptly called the Dusty Bar. This is party night on the Gibb Challenge. The final day, to follow, is only 50 km, an easy day, so it's a time to chill and relax. This time it's a sit-down buffet meal accompanied by a live and a silent auction. I just missed out on a nice painting of a couple of Boab trees with classic Kimberley colours.

    A few ports back at our campsite and a late (10 pm!) turn in.
    Read more

  • El Questro - Journey’s End!

    May 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    18 May. Day 16. 5th and final day of The Gibb Challenge ride.

    El Questro Station

    0840/1300. 50 KM

    The grande finale - fun day!

    This day’s ride format was different - a free for all. With only 50 Km to be ridden. People ride together, get attired in fancy dress, whatever grabs your fancy. I did a bit of solo, but shared the balance by riding first with Chris then Juergen. Great mateship stuff to celebrate our adventure!

    Only about 10 Km out from Home Valley we encountered the Pentecost River crossing. This is an iconic vista, claimed to be the most photographed spot in the Kimberleys.
    The blue waters of the river, with some whitish sand on the banks, but particularly the backdrop of the Cockburn Ranges, make this rather a memorable place. It is tidally effected here as the Cambridge Gulf is not far away. There was some concern about what the water level would be, as it had been an exceptionally wet monsoon season this summer, plus the tidal effect with high tide about breakfast time. But it was a non event. Water was only up to the running boards on the LandCruiser. Easy as! The riverbed consists of rounded boulders about a quarter to half the size of a football. Great entertainment watching the cyclists wend their way across. About twenty percent don’t manage to stay upright and end up in the water. Everyone assumes that with the large amount of vehicular traffic the crocs will have shown discretion and stayed away.

    It is bitumen from here thru to Kununurra which made riding somewhat easier especially as the Gibbsterly (the Easterly wind) had kicked in in the previous 24 hours or so. We had been particularly lucky as it is usually predominantly an Easterly headwind throughout the event. Can be relentlessly brutal.

    Next pullover point was at the ELQ road sign. This is a must do photo shoot point for Gibbsters. We took plenty! 16 Km to go to El Questro Station stay. Last bit is gravel.

    After a bit Chris decided to ride the last section. Jumped on the bike and headed off. Then pulled over when he realised he did not have his helmet on. Did the necessary and then about 300m further on he clipped an imbedded stone which skewed the handlebars and threw him straight over the bike. Very spectacular to watch. But very worrying. He did some ju-jitsu as a teenager and put it to great use doing a somersault landing. His helmet was grazed and dinted. A very lucky escape. A bit of rib bruising and minor grazes. Ironically, 13 km to go!

    A final water crossing and we were thru the finish line! Everyone receives a medal. It is enscribed The Gibb Challenge - It’s Not A Race !

    We had a cold beer or two, set up camp and went and had a swim at the Rockpool in the Pentecost in front of the restaurant, in that order.
    A very pleasant surprise was bumping into my nephew Mitch and his partner Paisley. They had flown up from Perth for about 10 days with a few days In Kununurra and the balance at El Questro.

    That evening we had the celebratory dinner on the lawn area of the property. A sit down 3 course meal. There was a choice of Barramundi or Beaf & Buffalo kebabs. How regionally appropriate. Plus a guy playing guitar and singing, doing a fine job.

    And I think I recollect a port or two before a later than usual turn in.

    So completed a very memorable adventure. Juergen and I first conceived the idea of doing it way back in 2016 if I recollect correctly, after I read an ABC News email about it. As I was retiring from Emirates and Dubai in 2018 we agreed I ( and Margot) would do a reconnoiter in 2019. Which we did as BHVs - Bloody Heroic Volunteers, acting as Camp Marshals under the tutorship of Blackie - Ken Blackhurst. 2020 was the onset of Covid and the event was cancelled. We planned on participating in 2021, but the WA border was still locked up good and proper. Early 2022 Chairman Premier McGowan flipped on his decision to finally open up the state borders, so we cancelled again. It all came together finally in 2023. Well worth the wait, the angst, the planning, the preparation and the execution.

    What was so good about the ride? The participation factor. The team strategisation, camaraderie and fellowship and bonding made it so special. I can honestly say it is one of the 5 or 6 best things I have done during my tenure here on Mother Earth.

    So let’s front up for next year? No way! Having said that, it may in fact be the last one in 2024, so might need to be done in some shape or form?!

    El Questro Station Stay

    A lovely set up, quite large, catering for all sorts. As part of the Challenge we were assigned sites in a large and very shady area. Can go very upmarket and in high season glamping is rather (very!) expensive.
    Telstra Mbl reception: good
    Wifi available. Cafe, restaurant and bar with firepit.
    Read more

  • El Questro Station - Sightseeing

    May 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    19 May. Day 17.

    El Questro Station - Sightseeing

    Zeberdee Springs, Analia Gorge, Pigeonhole lookout and Saddleback sunset.

    A tourist sightseeing day, especially for Amy and Juergen as they fly back to the USA tomorrow.

    First up was a short drive and a short walk into Zeberdee Springs, a thermal spring that feeds a string of rock tools which you can spa in. Rather fun and refreshing and invigorating.

    Nearby is the walk to Amalia Gorge. Normally about 45 minutes walk time, but it took somewhat longer. A woman has slipped off the track and fallen about 4m onto rocks below. Suspected broken wrist, ankle and the worry of possible spinal injury. It was impressive the number of police and SES volunteers in attendance, in excess of twenty. And so remote. It took them over 3 hours to secure her, lift her up back to the track and carry her out. A lovely waterfall with a swimmable pool greeted us. Water temperature was probably about 23 deg. Very refreshing.

    Back to ELQ Station and lunch in the cafe/restaurant. In the afternoon we took an 8 km drive out to Pigeon Hole lookout. An elevated ridge line view of a section of the winding Pentecost River with ranges on the western horizon. Very tranquil and scenic. On sunset we did a vigorous up hill walk to Saddleback Ridge. Normally a rugged 4WD track it had not been graded yet since the wet. An aerobic workout but well worth it for a celebratory drink up on the viewing platform with a pretty stunning sunset. Again looking over a section of the Pentecost.

    A sit down evening dinner was enjoyed by us all, including Paisley and Mutch, at the restaurant. Beautiful setting at night overlooking the river. This was our last supper! A memorable celebration of a fabulous week.
    Read more

  • Kununurra

    May 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    May 20. Day 18.

    Kununurra and return.

    0800/1800. 200 KM round trip.

    A leisurely arise and then we headed for Kununurra and the airport. An easy 100km drive on the bitumen after exiting the 16 km access dirt road in and out of ELQ.

    We had breakfast at Spilled The Beans cafe, followed by a bit of a drive around town including a drive up to Kellys Knob Lookout which gives a great overview of the town and the Ord River. I plan to spend some time up here in the future along with staying out at Lake Argyle. Tie it together with an exploration of the Bungle Bungles. Definitely on my bucket list.

    We dropped Amy and Juergs at the airport for their long journey back to Wisconsin. It was so good to accomplish the ride and everything associated with it with my very great buddy and his wonderful lady. Best part is I'll see them again in 3 weeks time for their wedding.

    Chris and I then stopped up at the cafe again, took advantage of the wifi and caught up on some admin each. Judy and Gord came past as they were staying at the adjoining caravan park. Had a departing sundowner beer with them as they were continuing on into the Northern Territory and South Australia before returning to Perth in a month or so. As the sun was about to go down soon, Chris and I headed back to ELQ. Pulled in in the dark, had a bev and a bite at the firepit bar, watched the flickering flames for a while, and then headed for Zzzzsville.

    Paul Jensen - Sunnybank School, UK

    I had met Jenno in 2019 when we camp marshaled together with Blackie - Ken Blackhurst. He is the headmaster of a boys special needs school specialising in developing boys with autism. Originally a country boy for QLD, he is a larger than life character. So people focused and caring, but but in a big, bold upfront way. In 2019 he had seen an article or video or similar on the Challenge and felt he had to be part if it. He flew out from London, rocked up at Broome with a kit bag over his shoulder and announced “Hi, I'm Jenno, can I help out, cos I gotta be part of this” or words to that effect. We all had a great time, a laugh a minute.

    His plan was to bring out a couple of his students and his son either in 2020 or 2021, and participate like ourselves. And like ourselves his endeavours were frustrated but came to fruition for this year's event. Huge logistical plan arranging travel for 5 people ex London, hiring bikes, hiring a 4WD vehicle, securing a trailer and all necessary gear for the gig.

    They had various trials and tribulations with a last minute visa issue, the trailer sheared an axle etc, etc. The Gibbsters are a resilient bunch. One o f the camp marshals is a motor mechanic and he spent the better part of the night rebuilding the trailer undercarriage. Awesome effort.

    Great to have a really good chat with Jenno on our last day. He was a member of our original proposed team, so he had a Globalistas cycle top and we had an obligatory photo shoot. Great bonding stuff!

    Wilk definitely endeavour to catch up with him next time in the UK.
    Read more

  • Home Valley Station, via Emma Gorge

    May 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    May 21. Day 19.

    Home Valley Station, via Emma Gorge

    0930/1430. 70 KM

    Chris and I arose at 5:00 and drove out to Pigeonhole Lookout to catch the dawn and the early morning light on the ranges. We were not disappointed. Early morning light straight onto the ranges to the west. Very picturesque and tranquil. We were up there on our own.

    We had breakfast at the cafe and then headed off to Emma Gorge, about a 30 - 40 minute drive away, followed by a reasonable walk over some stoney ground for about 45 minutes. Emma has a reputation of being one of the “big three” gorges and it did not disappoint. Big and elegant waterfall with a large swimmable pool at the base. Most of it in perpetual shade, so the water was rather chilly, about 17 deg was our guessimate. Most enjoyable in all regards.

    Heading west now on the GRR. Soon arrived at the Pentecost River crossing. It's tidal, confirmed, as it was only about half the depth when we crossed it previously. Also checked out a nice campsite on the eastern bank, about 200m downstream from the crossing. Nice white riverbank sand. No croc tracks (Saltie’s) either!

    Ten minutes later pulled into Home Valley Station at about 2:30 and set up camp. Had hoped to possibly do a barra fishing trip in the afternoon or early morning with Birchy the resident fishing guide, but he was out bush, unfortunately, with an overnight group. Gotta catch a barra, bucket list item!

    Cannot remember what we had for dinner, but think it was Engel freezer spag bol and salad.

    Home Valley Station Camp Stay

    OK facilities, we were on unpowerred site. $38-/person/night - rather expensive for what you get. Out of the norm price wise, compared to other GRR similar facilities. Maybe some powdered sites?
    Birchy’s Barra Fishing +61 459 540 763. birchysfishingtours@gmail.com
    No Telstra Mbl connection.
    Not aware of wifi availability.
    Read more

  • Drysdale River Station Stay

    May 22, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    May 22. Day 20.

    Drysdale River Station Stay.

    1100/1500. 235 KM.

    A cooler than usual night with a temperature of 8 deg when we arose at 6:30.

    No stop-offs planned for today, so a bit of admin and a coffee at the Dusty Bar, and then set sail at about 11 am. Back through the Durack River crossing and past the Ellenbrae turn-off. Tempted to drive in and partake of the scones and cream but abstained. Consequently turned off onto the Kalumburu Rd and headed for Drysdale Station, 60 km up an acceptable road.

    Checked in, set up camp, and had a nice hot shower and an equally nice cold beer. Dinner was something a bit different. We had bought a butterflied leg of lamb in Kununurra and consequently cooked up a roast on the Weber. Worked a treat. Half of the dinner was leftover , as was the intention, so we could have the balance of it as a cold dinner the following night at Mitchell Falls campsite. An early turn-in ensured as we had an early get-up and pack-up for camping at Mitchell Falls without the AVan.

    Drysdale River Station

    A very acceptable set up.
    Unlimited unpowered sites. $40- for two persons for the night. If requiring powdered, need to book in advance.
    Fuel available.
    Telstra Mbl: 4 bars, 4G. Only fair data feed at best.
    Bar and “restaurant”/cafe. Very pleasant gardens and surroundings. Friendly staff.
    No wifi.
    Read more

  • Mitchell Falls

    May 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    May 23. Day 21.

    Mitchell Falls

    0715/1030. 190 KM

    An early rise was we needed to pack for an overnight camp using Chris’s tent due to the fact that we left the AVan at Drysdale due to the road conditions into Mitchell Falls. It has a pretty terrible reputation.

    We headed up the Kalumburu Rd and were averaging between 70 and 90 kph. Some heavy corrugations but the LandCruiser tends to “float” over them somewhat at about 80 kph. Better than at the bone shuddering 20 kph bike speed! After turning off onto the Mitchell Falls /Warrender Rd after 100 km our speed reduced. This section of road is sign posted as Not Maintained, and it is not. The first 50 Km were OK but the last 30 were pretty rocky and we were reduced to 30 kph. Arrived, and relieved, at the camping area. This is a WA National Parks administered area. Apart from having a NP Pass, an Aboriginal Lands Use Pass ($50/ person) we also needed to pay a NP camping fee! $17-/person. We picked a site, parked the car, and started walking.

    It is a fairly demanding walk in on a sometimes ill-defined path. A lot of small and large boulders predominate. We headed straight through to the Mitchell Falls, making a commitment to explore other options, including Mertens Falls, on the way back. After about an hour and twenty minutes we arrived at the river and pools above the falls. A wade through water knee deep for about 80m got us to the other side of the river and we positioned ourselves via a rough track with a lot of boulders to a stunning vista of the falls, all four tiers. Magnificent. Majestic. Something pretty special about being here. And we had earnt it too! There was an APT tour group there initially. They had flown in by helicopter directly off their cruise ship. Tough how the other half live! Then when they moved on we sat in our solitude, soaked it all up and had a lunch snack. We then wandered back along the track passing the Large Mertens Falls again and then later and closer to the campsite we detoured to below and in fact behind the Little Mertens Falls. In the rock face here are some Aboriginal art paintings. As we checked out one specimen an Aborigibal guide escorting a group of about 6 people came past. Needless to say they were interested to stop and view. The guide was very keen to hussle them along saying this was “Womens Business”. Interesting.
    Had a very refreshing swim in the rock pool below the falls. This counted as our evening shower as the only facility at the camp site is hybrid toilets.

    Celebrated a great day back at the camp with a couple of cold bevs. Most enjoyable. Then ensured a LLD - a little lie down. It had been a solid day. Round trip walk and and rambling is about 8-10 km and it was warm, about 32 deg.

    Dinner consisted of cold leftovers from the night before’s roast, along with a bit of a salad. Quite acceptable, all things considered. And a red of course, a Stella Bella shiraz.

    It was dark, as usual, by six o’clock. After dinner I tried writing up this blog but sleep beckoned. Chris was in bed by 7:30 and I was a goner by 8.
    Read more