Day 3: Keswick to..... Keswick

Tempting as it might have been, we didn't spend today sunbathing in the park behind our hotel. The plan to ride each direction of the C2C in 2½ days meant that the morning of the middle day would be the final leg of our outward journey and the afternoon would mark the start of our return. In general I don't like linear routes (there and back on the same roads) and always try to plan a loop, mostly so the route map on Strava properly reflects one's efforts. So today has a loop......

After yesterday's shenanigans, we decided it would be wise to take a grown-up with us for today's cycle. My friend Steven from Carlisle joined us for a superb 60 mile cycle through the Lake District in glorious sunshine and with very little wind to keep us back. The scenery was breathtaking in places, as were the hills. The first climb of 2 miles over Whinlatter Pass was challenging and was followed by an equally challenging 3 mile descent into the valley. We knew this was also the route back but before we got to the bottom we all agreed that there was no way we were prepared to do that descent in reverse and that we would reroute as soon as we hit Whitehaven.

More unsettling was the fact that the 2 carefully planned coffee stops didn't work out. The first was inaccessible, as what I had thought was a cycle track leading off the Rowrah to Whitehaven railway path at Frizington turned out to be a walking path with a stile to get over the fence. So we continued on to Whitehaven and winged it as far as food went. But we were better for it. The first cafe we came to, Cafe West, turned out to be another charity supporting people with learning difficulties. The food was excellent, and the whole experience was both heart warming and at the same time heart wrenching. We were served perfectly and earnestly by a group of enthusiastic and dedicated staff, and although they may have needed to be patiently guided by the lady in charge, our lives were enriched by just being a part of it.

After lunch there was the traditional dipping of back wheel of the bike into the sea. There is a big C2C sign to help you choose where, and a small group of locals to offer encouragement. As we stepped carefully down the ramp to the waters edge we were offered sound advice. "Watch you don't slip and fall in - it wouldn't be the first time". On the way back up the ramp, one of the bystanders asked if that was us setting off (it is the traditional starting point). No I replied with pride, we are already halfway as we are doing the route in both directions. Ah, he said, will you be back in Newcastle tonight (it was 2pm and Newcastle was 135 miles away). No I replied, we are doing the C2C2C over 5 days. Ah, he said, you are taking the relaxed approach, my friend did it there and back in one day. I looked him up and down, assessed his BMI and decided there was very little chance he was there to verify his friend's claim. I don't want to take the moral high ground, and I accept that the C2C isn't particularly difficult, but we are cycling for 60 or so miles and climbing the equivalent of Ben Nevis every day and the suggestion we were taking the relaxed approach left me a bit miffed, to say the least.

Today, no one fell off and nothing broke so there is not much more to say about the cycle, except to mention rescheduled cake stop No. 2. Climbing the main road into Cockermouth we spotted a sign for a garden centre and cafe. What a pleasant happenstance. A wee gem of a place called Squirrel's Pantry, with the best cakes, coffee and place to rest your weary legs. The lady of the establishment captured the moment for us on film (well in pixels). If you look at the accompanying photos you will also note that we all got the memo to wear red for the day .....Read more