Bosnia and Herzegovina: Life Lessons

This morning we left Split very early to cross the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina, although we stayed primarily in the Herzegovina area. So far, we have visited areas with Austrian or Italian influences, but in this area, there is a strong Turkish influence, as it was controlled by the Ottomans from the 15th to the 18th centuries.
A local guide, Edin joined us at a stećak  necropolis located near Stolac. These huge 13th century gravestones are notable for their engraving, which denote the person's occupation rather than their name.
Before our traditional Bosnian lunch in Stolac, Edin walked us through his home town, which he obviously loves. He recounted his experience during the wars of 1991-1995, when all of the Bosniaks (Muslims) were expelled from Stolac. His parents were away, as his father was a soldier and his mother a nurse in Mostar, so at 8 years old, he had to walk with his young sister nearly 25 km to the next town of Blagaj to take shelter in the Tekija (Turkish monastery) there. Much of the town of Stolac was destroyed in the wars, but the people are working to rebuild and restore it.
We were able to visit the the Blagaj Tekija after lunch. The tekija was used by the Muslim dervishes as a house of prayer. It sits on the cliff above the springs that are the source of the Buma river. After enjoying strong Bosnian coffee or tea, we continued to Mostar for the night.Read more