• TravelwithClass.ns
  • Dennis Classen
May – Jun 2019

Adriatic Roots Tour

Dennis & Myj traveled to the Eastern European countries along the Adriatic sea, including
Slovenia, Croatia and a little of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Myj's grandparents are all from this area, thus we dubbed this trip the "Adriatic Roots Tour."
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  • Trip start
    May 29, 2019

    Researching My Roots

    May 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    According to Ancestry DNA, Myj is 97% Eastern European, from this region (no surprise). The Mihelich grandparents immigrated as teenagers, when Slovenia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The maternal (Gornick) grandparents immigrated later: grandfather Marco before World War I, grandmother Anna and Uncle Johnny after the war.
    Myj visited Slovenia in 1974 while on an 8 week backpack through Europe trip with her dear friend Cathleen Greiner. Myj's mom, Anne, was also on a European tour during this time, as a chaperone with the St. Anthony Boys Choir. We met up in Venice and took the train to Ljubljana in what was then Yugoslavia (an Iron Curtain country). Thankfully, Anne was a bilingual Slovene speaker, so that made things much easier. While there, we stayed with relatives (Anne's cousin Lojza Gornick and his wife Zofi), met more relatives and were able to visit the area where our ancestors lived.
    Myj was able to contact a cousin, (2nd cousin?) Boris, who we hope will be able to join us for lunch while we are in Ljubljana. Boris, who is a little older, escorted Myj and Cathleen out for a night on the town in Ljubljana in 1974 and later visited Oregon.
    Meanwhile, Myj has been trying to fill out the family tree info on Ancestry (easy, since brother Joe has already done so much work). We are excited that nephew Mark Mihelich and wife Carina, who live in London, will be able to meet us in Ljubljana for the weekend and visit the Bela Krajina region where the grandparents were born and lived.
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  • Dennis is not wearing cowboy boots!
    Just under the limit. I hope they don't include our backpacks in that!Just time for breakfast at Henry's.

    And..We're off: PDX to LAS to FRA to LJU

    May 29, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We managed to get our carrry-ons under the 10 Kg (22.4 lbs) limit for our flight to Frankfurt . Kira drove us to the airport and we are checked in for our Alaska Airlines flight to Las Vegas: Leg 1 of 3.
    Cheers!
    Lunch in Las Vegas (well, at least the airport), next stop: Frankfurt. We opted for a Condor Airlines flight, since the Premium Economy cost about what the economy fares were on the big airlines. The reviews were a bit mixed, but our flight was uneventful and on time. The immigration passport check was quick and easy, but we had to go through a TSA-like security line between terminals. Myj had the privilege of being patted down. Now a long layover in Frankfurt before our final leg to Ljubljana.!
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  • Getting acquainted with Ljubljana

    May 30, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We've arrived in Ljubljana! After a light dinner in a bistro near our hotel, we wandered around the neighborhood a little. It was fun, but we were too tired to go very far. Thankfully, we have several days here to explore.Read more

  • At a viewpoint overlooking part of Bela Krajina
    Hillside farms and vineyards, Bela Krajina.Our first helper, who called his boss..The boss, who told us the part of the road had been relocated.Searching the graveyard.The first Mr. Plut, who contacted his brother...Mr. Tone Plut, comparing notes with Myj.Mr. Plut showing off his brother Tone's CD.

    Where in the world is Vrtača 19? Part 1

    May 31, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    It will be hard to top our first full day in Slovenia. With the help of a series of strangers, we embarked on what turned out to be a memorable detective hunt and ended with an emotional meeting. The day was too full to capture in one post, so this is part 1 of 3.
    Mark and Carina met us at our hotel for our expedition to the Bela Krajina region. Our guide Gregor drove us to the beautiful and scenic countryside through a number of small villages and farmlands. The area looks much like Oregon. There are small family vineyards and farms everywhere along the hillsides.
    Upon arriving in the village of Semič, Gregor drove us to the Google location for Vrtača 19, the site where my grandfather, Jože Mihelčič was born. We walked along the little gravel road looking at each little house or cottage. We found #16, #17,#18 but no #19. Myj stopped a young man driving a forklift to ask if he might know where #19 was (thankfully the young people all speak English fluently) or if he might know of the family. He didn't know but called his boss.
    Meanwhile, our guide Gregor had found an older gentleman who wasn't sure but he thought perhaps #19 was across the valley because an industrial warehouse had come in and they had relocated the road. We resigned ourselves to not finding the homesite, thinking progress had destroyed it.
    Since we couldn't find the ancestral home, we next went to the cemetery to find the headstone. Again, however, despite searching the entire graveyard, we had no luck. Perhaps there was another graveyard, or the stone had been destroyed. As we were leaving, a man drove up, so Myj showed him the sketch of the tombstone we were looking for, Gregor helped to translate. He didn't know, but said his brother had done a lot of genealogy research. He called the brother, who agreed to meet us at a restaurant.
    The brother, Tone Plut, met us armed with his research on the family names in the family tree Myj had brought along. He couldn't quite come up with any matches, but said he would do some research. We enjoyed a coffee together, and learned that Tone had traveled to America, playing accordion at Slovenian gatherings and festivals. Tone took us to the local cultural center and St Stephen's, which would have been my grandparents' church.With Tone's promise to do more research, we exchanged emails, and went on to our lunch stop.
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  • Na zdravje!
    Lardo and sausages from their own pigs. Pogača (traditional bread).Porcini and buckwheat risottoExploring the cellars with Katya.What did he say now?Ok, that's more like it.

    Bela Krajina Part 2: A Vineyard Lunch

    May 31, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Leaving Semič behind, we drove on to nearby Metlika for lunch and wine tasting at Šuklje Family Vineyards. This truly is a family business: founded in the 1840s by Matija Šuklje , it is run by his descendants. We enjoyed a gourmet meal with food and wines sourced on the estate itself, prepared by daughter Katya (who holds a PhD in winemaking) and served by daughter-in-law Katya (yes, two Katya Šukljes). It was a beautiful setting and a beautiful meal.
    By the way, there is a 2nd great-uncle Matija Šuklje in Myj's family tree, from the same area, born at about the right time. We didn't establish whether there is a relation, but Myj likes to think so.
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  • Bela Krajina Part 3: Finding Stanko!

    May 31, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    As we were getting ready to leave the vineyards to return to Ljubljana, Gregor received a call from Tone Plut in Semič. He said he had found our relatives and did we want to return? We had had a long day by then, and Gregor had already provided more than we hoped and we didn't want to keep him too long. But he was willing, so back to Semič to meet up with Tone.
    We followed Tone to a house on the site of Vrtača 19, Myj's grandfather's birthplace. The current house is new, built by the current resident, Stanko Plut (no relation to Tone). Stanko pointed out where the original house was, now his front yard. A barn/shed still remains and is in use. Stanko doesn't speak English, but with Gregor's help, we found out that Stanko is the grandson of Jose Mihelčič 's sister, Neza (so Myj's 2nd cousin). Stanko brought out some photos of his grandmother Neza, Joze, and, to our surprise, Myj's Mom and Dad, as well as her Uncle Ed and Aunt Dorothy. Tone had his accordion and began playing "Oj,Maricka Pegla" (earlier Myj had told him that was the only Slovenian song she knew the words to). That was enough to start the crying (Dennis was first, when he noticed the picture of Anne and Frank).
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  • It's helpful to have someone with long arms for a selfie. On one of the many bridges in Ljubljana.
    Lively street culture on a Saturday.Enjoying a kava.Yes, he is walking a live ostrich.Beautiful Ljubljana.Tivoli Gardens, LjubljanaNot sure if these were supposed to be guard dogs, but they weren't very scary. In Tivoli GardensLjubljana art markets

    Enjoying Ljubljana

    June 1, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We spent a relaxing day strolling the pedestrian-only city center of Ljubljana. After sleeping in a little, we met Mark and Carina at an outdoor cafe for a kava (coffee). The Ljubljanans enjoy their riverside restaurants, good locally sourced food, excellent wines, and music, so we joined in! We strolled the city, did a little shopping, tried some gelato, visited the Tivoli Gardens (stopping for coffee and lemonade, of course), and enjoyed an excellent dinner at Julija Restaurant. The weather was beautiful, except for a brief shower during dinner.The waiter just scooted the table farther under the umbrella and we were fine.
    After dinner, we strolled a bit more, as Carina was on the hunt for kremšnita. Mark had noticed a little bar called Nostalgia, so we ended there for pivo (beer) and drinks.
    On our way back to our hotel, we noticed a gallery with some cool interactive lighting displays, so we stopped in there. We also looked in on a gin festival in the courtyard of a former monastery. I thought the security might check our ID and say we were too old, but they let us in. We didn't stay long, but enjoyed the music and people-watching.
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  • Royal Visits

    June 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Sunday we were up bright and early for a trip to the Karst region, southwest from Ljubljana toward the Dinaric Alps and the Adriatic Sea. Our guide today wasTomaž, also from Slovenia Explorers. Although this was one of their standard tours, we were the only four, so Tomaž gave us options for how we'd like the day to go and what we'd like to see.
    Our first stop was in Štanjel, where we had a leisurely walk along the grounds of the Middle-Age era castle. There are small houses built around the walls of the castle, which are slowly being restored; a few are available as vacation rentals. Our main interest there was the Ferrari Garden, built in 1928. These gardens are a beautiful complement to the incredible views of the Vivapa valley. Of course, we had to have a little break for kava, pivo and lemonade here.
    Our next stop was a lunch of local specialties: pršut, cheese, and lovely ruby red Teran wine. The locals claim their pršut (prosciutto) is the best due the Karst Bora wind. We agree!
    The highlight of the day was our visit to the Lippizzaner Stud Farm in Lipica (hence the name). This is the oldest continuously operating breeding farm in the world, founded in 1580. The Hapsburg royalty wanted elegant military and riding horses, so the strong and resilient native Karst mares were bred with Andalusian, Arabian and other stallions. We were able to visit the mares and new foals (dark when born, gradually turning white), the stallion barns, and watch a performance of riding, carriage driving, dressage, and of course, the "airs above the ground."
    On our return to Ljubljana, we detoured to see the Predjama Castle. The name is actually very literal, as it means "castle in a cave": amazing! We relaxed there with a little gelato and kava (the Slovenians like their coffee!).
    Our drive back to Ljubljana was slowed by an accident on the highway and heavy traffic. We made it just in time for Mark and Carina to get their taxi to the airport for their flight home to London. We were sad to say goodbye to them after sharing a wonderful weekend.
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  • Our lunch with Boris.
    Boris (far right), with his family, Myj and mom Anne in 1974.Gostilna As, our lunch restaurantTuna tartare tacos. Yum!Lively conversation, enhanced by the use of hands!The Butcher's Bridge, where lovers padlock their love and drop their keys into the river.Locks of love...and Binkies?

    Reunion with Boris

    June 3, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We were very lazy today, after our busy weekend. We slept in, then met Myj's cousin Boris Pleskovic for lunch. His mother and Myj's mother were first cousins. Myj met Boris in 1974 when she visited Slovenia. Then he visited her family in Oregon before beginning his Master's program at Harvard (and then he went on to earn a doctorate at MIT). Boris has had an illustrious career in the meanwhile. He was the Director of Research for the World Bank in New York for 30 years, then returned to Slovenia in the 90s when Slovenia gained independence, serving as a key advisor to the Prime Minister. His "retirement," job is as President of the Slovenian World Congress.
    We had an excellent lunch and lively conversation sharing remembrances of our visits to each other's homes in the 70s, and catching up on our experiences since then. His are a bit more impressive than ours! Nevertheless, he is still charming and we had a wonderful time.
    The rest of our day included a nap, a bit of laundry, catching up on travel posts and a walk along the river studying all the restaurants before selecting one for dinner.
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  • Meeting Our Tour Companions

    June 4, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Our Rick Steves Tour officially started this afternoon. However, we met four of our tour companions this morning at breakfast. Barbie and Debbie, sisters-in-law from the San Diego area, were interested in the ethnographic museum, as were we, so we joined up for the walk and visit to the museum. Of special interest was the bee-keeping exhibit. Slovenians have an affection for their native Carniolian bees and a long tradition of bee-keeping.
    Then it was time to meet the rest of the gang, who come from the west coast, Arizona, New Jersey, Texas, Alabama and Michigan. Our guide, Darija led us on a short walking tour through one of the neighborhoods where "real people " live, then through the old city to the funicular. You can hike up the hill to the castle, but riding was nice, especially since it was hot and humid. The Ljubljana Castle is was more for fortfication than as a palace, so the most interesting thing at the top is the incredible view over the city. A "Welcome dinner" was waiting for us in the restaurant on the castle grounds. We enjoyed getting to know our new companions for the next two weeks over yet another delicious meal.
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  • Nasvidenje, Ljubljana

    June 5, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Our last full day in Ljubljana began with a walking tour with local guide Sasha. He explained how the political history influenced the architecture of the city, and the contribution of Jože Plečnik to creating the beautiful city that Ljubljana is now. Our afternoon was free for a little shopping in the Farmer's Market and of course, some kava, some pivo and some vino with our lunch at a sidewalk cafe.
    Our new tour friends Barbie and Debbie invited us to join them for dinner at restaurant Danilo in Skofja Loca, about 20 minutes away by taxi. Danilo was one of the first "slow-food" restaurants in Slovenia. It was an amazing meal.
    We have absolutely loved Ljubljana. It is a beautiful, walkable city and the residents seem to know how to enjoy life.
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  • An OMG! Day: Part 1

    June 6, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Thursday we left Ljubljana headed toward the mountains. It was a day of "OMG! Isn't that gorgeous?"
    Our first stop was at the incredibly beautiful Lake Bled. We drove most of the way to the castle, then climbed to the top for an amazing view of the turquoise water, the surrounding mountains and the tiny church-topped island. The color of the water is from the Karst limestone.
    A group of us decided to take the trip to the island in one of the "pletna" boats. Each boat is rowed by one man, similar to a gondola, but the boats are flat-bottomed. This guy makes up to five trips per day; no need for a gym membership for him!
    Unfortunately, the trip took longer than we thought, so we had to do a "fast food" sandwich lunch and skip the famous cream cake (we had had some in Ljubljana though).
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  • OMG! Part 2: We're going to die!

    June 6, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Leaving Lake Bled, our next stop was the Planica Nordic Center where we were able to watch skiers practicing their jumps. The World Ski Flying championships will be held here next year.
    Then began our journey over the mountains via the Vršič Pass. This was the "OMG! We're going to die!" part of the day, at least for Myj, who is not fond of roads with steep drop-offs. The pass is the highest in the Julian Alps and includes 50 hairpin turns. The road is quite narrow in spots, so encountering cars along the way was hair-raising. In fact, we came upon a car pulling a travel trailer (what were they thinking?) and they actually had to back up to let us by. There were also crazy people on bicycles and motorcycles!The pass has a somber history, as it was built by soldiers and POWs during World War I, many of whom died in the harsh winter conditions.
    Having survived the pass, we continued along the Sava River to our hotel in Bovec, set in a beautiful alpine valley. Our group walked through the little village to a dinner of local trout and venison. There are many shops and outfitters for every outdoor sport : rafting, kayaking, hiking, skiing, climbing and more.
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  • Lisjak Vineyards
    Boris Lisjak telling the story of his family's wines, with the help of our guide Darija.The door to the wine cellarsThe wine caveThese are some very well-aged wines!Each course of our lunch was paired with an excellent wine.These Rose's at the vineyard are an example of the beautiful roses we've seen everywhere in Slovenia.We actually drove in and out of Italy as the border is so close.

    Lisjak Vina

    June 7, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We traveled today through the beautiful Soca Valley to the town of Kobarid. The small museum there explains the importance of the Soca Pass, and the terrible fighting during World War I through the stories of the soldiers. It is a moving and very well done museum, highlighted by the excellent guide who led us through.
    With thoughts of the terrible price of war in our minds,we continued on toward the sea. As we followed the river through the Soca valley toward the Istrian peninsula, the landscape changed dramatically from the alpine peaks toward the green hillsides and finally the more Mediterranean coastline. Our lunch stop was at the beautiful Lisjak vineyards, where we sampled the young wines, as well as the mature whites and red Teran wine. This vineyard has been in the family for eight generations.
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  • Sunset from the 13th century walls of Motovun
    Our hotel is at the very top of the hill.MotovunI love the little castle play structure below the real castle.Veli Jože, the kind forest giant of MotovunDinosaurs and donkeys at play in the castle garden.

    Our Castle Fortress in Motovun

    June 7, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    After leaving the Lisjak vineyards, we followed the Istrian coast to our hotel in a 17th century palace on the very top of the hill in Motovun. Our trip involved a border check as we crossed out of Slovenia and into Croatia. The bus had to drop us off at the bottom of the hill as it is not allowed into the oldest part of the medieval village. It was a steep walk to the hotel, but the amazing 360 degree views were worth it. After a delicious dinner of local pasta with truffles, we walked along the walls built in 1278, when the village was under Venetian rule (Istria has gone back and forth from Italy, to Austria, to Croatia).Read more

  • A Bit of Italy in Croatia

    June 8, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today we explored the Istrian Peninsula in the city of Pula and the seaside village of Rovinj. Although now Croatia, this area belonged to Italy for centuries, and still has a strong Italian minority. Pula is the site of the sixth largest existing Roman amphitheater, but the most intact and best preserved, built by the Romans in the first century (as in the year 80 AD). It was easy to picture the gladiators fighting wild animals in the center of the arena. It is interesting that our modern football and soccer stadiums are much the same design. In fact, the amphitheater in Pula is still used for concerts, etc; Sting recently performed here.
    After a lunch of "frito misto" (calamari, small fish and huge prawns), we drove on to the charming Venetian town of Rovinj. We spent most of our time just sitting in a cafe near the marina, enjoying lemonade and espresso and watching the people passing. By the way, lemonade is fresh squeezed juice in a glass. accompanied by a bottle of mineral water to mix as you like; no sugar, but there are packets on the table. As it is Saturday, there were many locals out and about. We wandered the colorful little cobblestone streets and alleys for a bit.
    Our final stop was in Brtonigla for another delicious dinner. We worked off some of the pasta on our walk up the steep hill to our hotel in Motovun.
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  • Opatija to Plitvice

    June 9, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Sunday morning we left our castle in Motovun bright and early to begin our drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park. Our lunch stop was in the seaside resort town of Opatija. During the 18th century, the wealthier residents of the nearby industrial city of Rijeke built beautiful Austrian-style villas.
    Then we left the coast to head inland to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We stayed the night in the Hotel Plitvice, a communist-style hotel built in the 1970s when this was part of Yugoslavia.
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  • A Thousand Waterfalls

    June 10, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    We woke to the birds singing in the forest surrounding our hotel in Plitvice Lakes National Park. An electric bus took us to our designated entrance to the trails. In order to protect the ecosystem and manage the number of people in each area of the park, tickets have a designated time, entrance station and direction of travel in the park. Most of our walk was gradually downhill through the forest encountering waterfall after waterfall, meandering through a series of lakes at the bottom of the canyon. Rustic boardwalks and steps crossed over delicate wetlands and streams in places, sometimes with the water rushing beneath our feet. There were waterfalls of all sizes and lakes of the clearest emerald green. It was like walking through a fairytale forest.
    When we reached the largest lake Jezero Kozjak, we boarded an electrically-powered boat for a peaceful ride to the other side. Of course, what goes down must go up, so the next section of our hike was uphill. However, this section revealed even more spectacular waterfalls, with the grand finale: Veliki Slap (Big Waterfall - a descriptive, if not very romantic name). Even the last and steepest section of the trail, with multiple switchbacks came with a reward. At the top, we could look down on the beautiful vista.
    Leaving this water wonderland behind, we headed over the Dinaric Alps toward the Dalmatian coast. Again, there was a dramatic change in the landscape, leaving the lush green for the dry desert-like area on the seaward side of the mountains.
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  • Dennis and friends: Debbie, Barbie, Carolyn, Myj, and Virginia (she cut herself out of the selfie).
    The fish market has no flies due to the nearby sulphur springs.He has a towel to enjoy the springs, but covers his ears because of the noisy fish market.Traditional Klapa singers.The main street in the old city. The stones are worn smooth from centuries of traffic.This square has red buildings of the Venetian era, as well as yellow from the Hapsburg era.Statue of Grgr Ninski, who argued to allow the use if the native Croatian languageEating and drinking is serious business here.Our dinner on Tuesday: fresh from the Adriatic Sea!

    Sights and Sounds of Split

    June 11, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We arrived in Split in the late afternoon, tired and hot after our long day in Plitvice, Opatija and driving to the coast. But after a refreshing shower, we found the energy to join part of our tour group for a short orientation walk, with stops for gelato (guide Darija's treat) and the laundromat to drop our clothes for washing. The pedestrian old city of Split was very active even on a Monday evening with both locals and tourists shopping, eating, drinking and enjoying the "live entertainment " of people-watching. Dennis enjoyed escorting five women to dinner. Most of our group had pizza, Dennis had pasta, and Myj had a delicious tuna steak. We needed sustenance to restore us after the 19,415 steps, we walked!Read more

  • Diocletian's Palace

    June 11, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    The Roman Emperor Diocletian chose Split as the site of his "retirement" home. This morning we were guided through the remains of the palace and the Roman history of Split by local guide and Split native Maja. It is truly amazing that the engineering and construction techniques of the Romans survived from 304 AD. Parts of the palace were "recycled" by medieval inhabitants who used them to build new homes on top of the foundation. The temple to Jupiter and Diocletian's mausoleum were "rehabbed" by the Christians and are still in use as the world's smallest cathedral. In fact, the residences built into the walls over the original palace are also still in use.Read more

  • Bosnia and Herzegovina: Life Lessons

    June 12, 2019 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 🌫 86 °F

    This morning we left Split very early to cross the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina, although we stayed primarily in the Herzegovina area. So far, we have visited areas with Austrian or Italian influences, but in this area, there is a strong Turkish influence, as it was controlled by the Ottomans from the 15th to the 18th centuries.
    A local guide, Edin joined us at a stećak  necropolis located near Stolac. These huge 13th century gravestones are notable for their engraving, which denote the person's occupation rather than their name.
    Before our traditional Bosnian lunch in Stolac, Edin walked us through his home town, which he obviously loves. He recounted his experience during the wars of 1991-1995, when all of the Bosniaks (Muslims) were expelled from Stolac. His parents were away, as his father was a soldier and his mother a nurse in Mostar, so at 8 years old, he had to walk with his young sister nearly 25 km to the next town of Blagaj to take shelter in the Tekija (Turkish monastery) there. Much of the town of Stolac was destroyed in the wars, but the people are working to rebuild and restore it.
    We were able to visit the the Blagaj Tekija after lunch. The tekija was used by the Muslim dervishes as a house of prayer. It sits on the cliff above the springs that are the source of the Buma river. After enjoying strong Bosnian coffee or tea, we continued to Mostar for the night.
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  • Mostar: Cultural Crossings

    June 13, 2019 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 🌫 82 °F

    In Mostar, we continued learning about the three ethnicities and cultures that lived together peacefully for centuries until the wars of the 1990s that were driven by politicians who used the religious and cultural differences to promote their agendas. Today our guide Adisa took us on a walking tour of the city. Like the villages we visited yesterday, this city was 90% destroyed in the war, but is rebuilding. You see bombed out buildings next to newly reconstructed hotels. Adisa too had stories about living in Mostar as a teenager during the war, walking five miles to the hills at night to ask at each house for food because it wasn't safe during the day. Her brother was turned over to the Croats and put in a concentration camp by his childhood friend.
    The most iconic feature in Mostar is the beautiful Stari Most, or Old Bridge. The original bridge, built in 427, was another casualty of war. The original stones were retrieved from the river and the bridge was reconstructed with assistance from UNESCO and the international community. It reopened in 2008.
    We were able to visit a mosque that had been restored, and a traditional 16th century Turkish house that was mostly unharmed from the grenades. Of course, we enjoyed more coffee, tea and Turkish Delight sweets in the peaceful courtyard. On the way from the city of Mostar, we stopped at a Serbian Orthodox monastery. Although there has been a monastery here for 400 years, the last one was destroyed, so the existing one was reconstructed, using as much of the original stone as possible. A young monk explained the history of the chapel and the Orthodox service.
    As Americans, we read or heard about the wars in Bosnia, but seeing the results almost 30 years later and hearing personal stories helps to put in perspective how senseless it is. Adisa and Edin are near the ages of our girls, so it struck us what a different life they had. Our guide Darija, who is a little older, shared her perspective as well. Of course, she remembers that time, as a teenager in Zagreb. But her feeling is that it is time to stop talking about it so that today's young people will be able to look forward instead of past. One thing that all three share is a mistrust of all politicians! It did make me think about some of the political craziness happening in the USA right now.
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  • A Vacation from Our Vacation in Korcula

    June 14, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We crossed the border back into Croatia and after two ferry crossings, we arrived on the island of Korcula on the Dalmatian coast Thursday evening. Our agenda for the next day and a half was to relax and enjoy this beautiful and serene setting, or as guide Darija called it: "our vacation from vacation." We followed her instructions to the letter, sleeping in, shopping a little in the winding streets and alleys of the old town, and enjoying more excellent local food and wine. Myj braved the pebbles on the beach for a swim in the warm and very salty Adriatic Sea, while Dennis watched from the hotel terrace with a few gin & tonics.
    Korcula is one of the only places where it is still possible to see the traditional Moreska sword dances. We went to a performance one night that included a version of Moreska as well as traditional Dalmatian singers. The following night, a Moreska troup representing five different villages marched throughout the town, stopping to perform different dances from each village. At first we thought the swords the dancers used were fake, but as they twirled and dipped in the intricate movements, we realized there were actually sparks flying when their swords clashed.
    A sunset cruise around the island before an incredible dinner at Aterina Restaurant capped our visit to Korcula. We left reluctantly Saturday morning to finish the last few days of our tour in Dubrovnik.
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  • This 12 day old was a heart-stealer!Our lunch cooking in "pekka" in the ashes.Lunch under the hanging prosciutto and salami.Part of the walls in Ston.To show that not all of the buildings in Croatia are beautiful, some 1960s Communist era apartments.Thank you Klaudio for driving us safely.My fitbit for this week.

    Donkey Milk, Anyone?

    June 15, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Our brief vacation in idyllic Korcula over, we continued onward toward Dubrovnik. Traveling along the Peljesak Peninsula, we detoured from the main highway to visit a donkey farm. Of course they were adorable! In addition to preserving the Croatian donkeys, which were scarce when the Antunović family started the farm 20 years ago, these donkeys produce milk. Mr. Antunović explained the health and medicinal benefits of donkey milk. He only takes one deciliter per day from the mothers, saving the rest for the baby donkeys, so it is expensive.
    After our visit with the donkeys, we walked into the tiny village where the family also runs a tavern. We were offered a taste of the milk with our lunch. It was fine, but Myj preferred the Plavac Mali wine they also produce.
    As we returned to the highway, we were treated to panoramic views of the Adriatic. Our last stop before Dubrovnik was a break in Ston, where we could see the 13th century salt works pools as well as the walls built to protect this precious resource. These are the longest defensive walls in Europe, and the third longest in the world. Since it was nearly 90 degrees, we opted not to climb up to the gate at the base of the wall, but one or two of our group did so.
    When we reached Dubrovnik in the late afternoon, we said goodbye to our bus driver, Klaudio, as this is our last stop. Dennis expressed his admiration for Klaudio's ability to navigate the narrow roads and especially the hairpin turns in the Alps.
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  • Enjoying our Michelin Star experience.
    Our dinner view at dusk.Beautiful moonlightThe swallows were very busy overhead.

    A Once in a Lifetime Meal

    June 15, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    We are fortunate to be able to travel, but we do mind our budget. So while we opted for the more moderately priced Condor Airlines flight, we did splurge for a dinner at a Michelin star restaurant. Because a flight is just transportation, but this dinner was an experience!
    Myj had researched and made reservations a month before we left at Restaurant 360 Dubrovnik. It is the only restaurant allowed on the UNESCO Heritage Dubrovnik Walls. Entering through an opening in the 1000 year old walls, we were led up the stairs through the contemporary lounge area, up again to another interior level where we could look down through the windows surrounding the kitchen below to watch the chefs in action. Finally, we emerged onto the dining terrace, with a jaw-dropping view of the harbor and the stone fortifications.
    While you might expect the atmosphere to be snooty, the staff perfectly balanced approachability with attentive professionalism. Initially, we thought that 6:30pm was a bit early for dinner (in Europe) , but as we relaxed and enjoyed each course in the changing light from daylight to dusk to moonlight, we were glad we began our four-and-a-half-hour meal at that time. Of course, it also took time for the server to explain each item on the exquisitely presented plates.
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