Adriatic Roots Tour

May - June 2019
Dennis & Myj traveled to the Eastern European countries along the Adriatic sea, including
Slovenia, Croatia and a little of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Myj's grandparents are all from this area, thus we dubbed this trip the "Adriatic Roots Tour."
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  • 30footprints
  • 6countries
  • 22days
  • 248photos
  • 11videos
  • 24.3kmiles
  • 17.7kmiles
  • Researching My Roots

    May 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    According to Ancestry DNA, Myj is 97% Eastern European, from this region (no surprise). The Mihelich grandparents immigrated as teenagers, when Slovenia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The maternal (Gornick) grandparents immigrated later: grandfather Marco before World War I, grandmother Anna and Uncle Johnny after the war.
    Myj visited Slovenia in 1974 while on an 8 week backpack through Europe trip with her dear friend Cathleen Greiner. Myj's mom, Anne, was also on a European tour during this time, as a chaperone with the St. Anthony Boys Choir. We met up in Venice and took the train to Ljubljana in what was then Yugoslavia (an Iron Curtain country). Thankfully, Anne was a bilingual Slovene speaker, so that made things much easier. While there, we stayed with relatives (Anne's cousin Lojza Gornick and his wife Zofi), met more relatives and were able to visit the area where our ancestors lived.
    Myj was able to contact a cousin, (2nd cousin?) Boris, who we hope will be able to join us for lunch while we are in Ljubljana. Boris, who is a little older, escorted Myj and Cathleen out for a night on the town in Ljubljana in 1974 and later visited Oregon.
    Meanwhile, Myj has been trying to fill out the family tree info on Ancestry (easy, since brother Joe has already done so much work). We are excited that nephew Mark Mihelich and wife Carina, who live in London, will be able to meet us in Ljubljana for the weekend and visit the Bela Krajina region where the grandparents were born and lived.
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  • Day 1

    And..We're off: PDX to LAS to FRA to LJU

    May 29, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We managed to get our carrry-ons under the 10 Kg (22.4 lbs) limit for our flight to Frankfurt . Kira drove us to the airport and we are checked in for our Alaska Airlines flight to Las Vegas: Leg 1 of 3.
    Cheers!
    Lunch in Las Vegas (well, at least the airport), next stop: Frankfurt. We opted for a Condor Airlines flight, since the Premium Economy cost about what the economy fares were on the big airlines. The reviews were a bit mixed, but our flight was uneventful and on time. The immigration passport check was quick and easy, but we had to go through a TSA-like security line between terminals. Myj had the privilege of being patted down. Now a long layover in Frankfurt before our final leg to Ljubljana.!
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  • Day 2

    Getting acquainted with Ljubljana

    May 30, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We've arrived in Ljubljana! After a light dinner in a bistro near our hotel, we wandered around the neighborhood a little. It was fun, but we were too tired to go very far. Thankfully, we have several days here to explore.Read more

  • Day 3

    Where in the world is Vrtača 19? Part 1

    May 31, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    It will be hard to top our first full day in Slovenia. With the help of a series of strangers, we embarked on what turned out to be a memorable detective hunt and ended with an emotional meeting. The day was too full to capture in one post, so this is part 1 of 3.
    Mark and Carina met us at our hotel for our expedition to the Bela Krajina region. Our guide Gregor drove us to the beautiful and scenic countryside through a number of small villages and farmlands. The area looks much like Oregon. There are small family vineyards and farms everywhere along the hillsides.
    Upon arriving in the village of Semič, Gregor drove us to the Google location for Vrtača 19, the site where my grandfather, Jože Mihelčič was born. We walked along the little gravel road looking at each little house or cottage. We found #16, #17,#18 but no #19. Myj stopped a young man driving a forklift to ask if he might know where #19 was (thankfully the young people all speak English fluently) or if he might know of the family. He didn't know but called his boss.
    Meanwhile, our guide Gregor had found an older gentleman who wasn't sure but he thought perhaps #19 was across the valley because an industrial warehouse had come in and they had relocated the road. We resigned ourselves to not finding the homesite, thinking progress had destroyed it.
    Since we couldn't find the ancestral home, we next went to the cemetery to find the headstone. Again, however, despite searching the entire graveyard, we had no luck. Perhaps there was another graveyard, or the stone had been destroyed. As we were leaving, a man drove up, so Myj showed him the sketch of the tombstone we were looking for, Gregor helped to translate. He didn't know, but said his brother had done a lot of genealogy research. He called the brother, who agreed to meet us at a restaurant.
    The brother, Tone Plut, met us armed with his research on the family names in the family tree Myj had brought along. He couldn't quite come up with any matches, but said he would do some research. We enjoyed a coffee together, and learned that Tone had traveled to America, playing accordion at Slovenian gatherings and festivals. Tone took us to the local cultural center and St Stephen's, which would have been my grandparents' church.With Tone's promise to do more research, we exchanged emails, and went on to our lunch stop.
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  • Day 3

    Bela Krajina Part 2: A Vineyard Lunch

    May 31, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Leaving Semič behind, we drove on to nearby Metlika for lunch and wine tasting at Šuklje Family Vineyards. This truly is a family business: founded in the 1840s by Matija Šuklje , it is run by his descendants. We enjoyed a gourmet meal with food and wines sourced on the estate itself, prepared by daughter Katya (who holds a PhD in winemaking) and served by daughter-in-law Katya (yes, two Katya Šukljes). It was a beautiful setting and a beautiful meal.
    By the way, there is a 2nd great-uncle Matija Šuklje in Myj's family tree, from the same area, born at about the right time. We didn't establish whether there is a relation, but Myj likes to think so.
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  • Day 3

    Bela Krajina Part 3: Finding Stanko!

    May 31, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    As we were getting ready to leave the vineyards to return to Ljubljana, Gregor received a call from Tone Plut in Semič. He said he had found our relatives and did we want to return? We had had a long day by then, and Gregor had already provided more than we hoped and we didn't want to keep him too long. But he was willing, so back to Semič to meet up with Tone.
    We followed Tone to a house on the site of Vrtača 19, Myj's grandfather's birthplace. The current house is new, built by the current resident, Stanko Plut (no relation to Tone). Stanko pointed out where the original house was, now his front yard. A barn/shed still remains and is in use. Stanko doesn't speak English, but with Gregor's help, we found out that Stanko is the grandson of Jose Mihelčič 's sister, Neza (so Myj's 2nd cousin). Stanko brought out some photos of his grandmother Neza, Joze, and, to our surprise, Myj's Mom and Dad, as well as her Uncle Ed and Aunt Dorothy. Tone had his accordion and began playing "Oj,Maricka Pegla" (earlier Myj had told him that was the only Slovenian song she knew the words to). That was enough to start the crying (Dennis was first, when he noticed the picture of Anne and Frank).
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  • Day 4

    Enjoying Ljubljana

    June 1, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We spent a relaxing day strolling the pedestrian-only city center of Ljubljana. After sleeping in a little, we met Mark and Carina at an outdoor cafe for a kava (coffee). The Ljubljanans enjoy their riverside restaurants, good locally sourced food, excellent wines, and music, so we joined in! We strolled the city, did a little shopping, tried some gelato, visited the Tivoli Gardens (stopping for coffee and lemonade, of course), and enjoyed an excellent dinner at Julija Restaurant. The weather was beautiful, except for a brief shower during dinner.The waiter just scooted the table farther under the umbrella and we were fine.
    After dinner, we strolled a bit more, as Carina was on the hunt for kremšnita. Mark had noticed a little bar called Nostalgia, so we ended there for pivo (beer) and drinks.
    On our way back to our hotel, we noticed a gallery with some cool interactive lighting displays, so we stopped in there. We also looked in on a gin festival in the courtyard of a former monastery. I thought the security might check our ID and say we were too old, but they let us in. We didn't stay long, but enjoyed the music and people-watching.
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  • Day 5

    Royal Visits

    June 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Sunday we were up bright and early for a trip to the Karst region, southwest from Ljubljana toward the Dinaric Alps and the Adriatic Sea. Our guide today wasTomaž, also from Slovenia Explorers. Although this was one of their standard tours, we were the only four, so Tomaž gave us options for how we'd like the day to go and what we'd like to see.
    Our first stop was in Štanjel, where we had a leisurely walk along the grounds of the Middle-Age era castle. There are small houses built around the walls of the castle, which are slowly being restored; a few are available as vacation rentals. Our main interest there was the Ferrari Garden, built in 1928. These gardens are a beautiful complement to the incredible views of the Vivapa valley. Of course, we had to have a little break for kava, pivo and lemonade here.
    Our next stop was a lunch of local specialties: pršut, cheese, and lovely ruby red Teran wine. The locals claim their pršut (prosciutto) is the best due the Karst Bora wind. We agree!
    The highlight of the day was our visit to the Lippizzaner Stud Farm in Lipica (hence the name). This is the oldest continuously operating breeding farm in the world, founded in 1580. The Hapsburg royalty wanted elegant military and riding horses, so the strong and resilient native Karst mares were bred with Andalusian, Arabian and other stallions. We were able to visit the mares and new foals (dark when born, gradually turning white), the stallion barns, and watch a performance of riding, carriage driving, dressage, and of course, the "airs above the ground."
    On our return to Ljubljana, we detoured to see the Predjama Castle. The name is actually very literal, as it means "castle in a cave": amazing! We relaxed there with a little gelato and kava (the Slovenians like their coffee!).
    Our drive back to Ljubljana was slowed by an accident on the highway and heavy traffic. We made it just in time for Mark and Carina to get their taxi to the airport for their flight home to London. We were sad to say goodbye to them after sharing a wonderful weekend.
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  • Day 6

    Reunion with Boris

    June 3, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We were very lazy today, after our busy weekend. We slept in, then met Myj's cousin Boris Pleskovic for lunch. His mother and Myj's mother were first cousins. Myj met Boris in 1974 when she visited Slovenia. Then he visited her family in Oregon before beginning his Master's program at Harvard (and then he went on to earn a doctorate at MIT). Boris has had an illustrious career in the meanwhile. He was the Director of Research for the World Bank in New York for 30 years, then returned to Slovenia in the 90s when Slovenia gained independence, serving as a key advisor to the Prime Minister. His "retirement," job is as President of the Slovenian World Congress.
    We had an excellent lunch and lively conversation sharing remembrances of our visits to each other's homes in the 70s, and catching up on our experiences since then. His are a bit more impressive than ours! Nevertheless, he is still charming and we had a wonderful time.
    The rest of our day included a nap, a bit of laundry, catching up on travel posts and a walk along the river studying all the restaurants before selecting one for dinner.
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  • Day 7

    Meeting Our Tour Companions

    June 4, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Our Rick Steves Tour officially started this afternoon. However, we met four of our tour companions this morning at breakfast. Barbie and Debbie, sisters-in-law from the San Diego area, were interested in the ethnographic museum, as were we, so we joined up for the walk and visit to the museum. Of special interest was the bee-keeping exhibit. Slovenians have an affection for their native Carniolian bees and a long tradition of bee-keeping.
    Then it was time to meet the rest of the gang, who come from the west coast, Arizona, New Jersey, Texas, Alabama and Michigan. Our guide, Darija led us on a short walking tour through one of the neighborhoods where "real people " live, then through the old city to the funicular. You can hike up the hill to the castle, but riding was nice, especially since it was hot and humid. The Ljubljana Castle is was more for fortfication than as a palace, so the most interesting thing at the top is the incredible view over the city. A "Welcome dinner" was waiting for us in the restaurant on the castle grounds. We enjoyed getting to know our new companions for the next two weeks over yet another delicious meal.
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