Day 6: Najera to Granon. 28.5 km

Another long day to follow up the two previous 28 km days. Our bodies are just holding up. We’re stiff and sore at days end; I’ve got a throbbing right knee from past patella tendon issues that I’m nursing and the blister by my left big toe is finally healing. No discomfort there, which is great.

The scenery remains pretty static - vineyards, fields of sunflowers, plowed fields and small villages, with the church at centre on hills. These villages can be a grunt to get to - especially after walking in heat for 6+ hours.

What’s not changing are the pilgrims on the trail. There are alot of them. We wake up and think who’s bumping into us, what discussions will be had, on today’s 25+ km walk…

Up there today was the American, apple pie mom living in a 7 member blended family in Cincinnati. Let’s call her Kate. Kate’s first husband became paranoid, controlling and threatening towards during their separation. It gets ugly for Kate. He began telling his workmate that he wanted to be rid of his ex-wife. The workmate detects something strange is going on, becomes concerned and secretly informed the authorities.

What next happens is that he the FBI do surveillance on her ex. They become really concerned. They ask the workmate to tell her ex that he knows someone to do the job and can arrange a meeting. The meeting goes ahead with an FBI undercover agent, her ex explains on camera that he wants his wife disposed of and hands over $8000. The FBI swoop and long and short is that he gets 10 years for aiding and abetting an attempted homicide. Kate reckons the whole process took three years off her life. She recalls the FBI swooping on her after school pick up and informing her of what’s happened with her ex.

Kate then takes over the care of her three daughters, meets a new man who has four boys and she gives up her marketing work to be a full time regular American mom, coaching volleyball and doing pick up etc. This is how she presents today

She now looks back and says that she thought she was more to him than the $8000 offered!

Camino Moment: During today’s walk I got an email from our albergue to say they’ve overbooked. They’ve given us a welcome upgrade to an apartment: outdoor pool, clean sheets, real towels, washing machine etc. No two person cupboards with shower tonight! After a week on Camino, we need this lift.En savoir plus