Camino Portuguese

August - September 2023
Walking Porto to Santiago de Compostela Read more
  • 9footprints
  • 2countries
  • 16days
  • 69photos
  • 6videos
  • 286miles
  • Day 1

    Porto to Vila Cha

    August 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    First day on the Camino. Took a bus to outskirts of Porto and walked 11.5 miles to Cafe Sandra at Vila Cha.
    Cute little place but they only had one room with 2 beds, so we’re doing the camino experience today 😀
    Almost the entire walk was right along the North Atlantic ocean with boardwalks and beautiful coastlines. Where else can you walk right beside the ocean for that many miles?
    We had lunch in Labruge and ate sardines that had just come out of the ocean. We walked through all the fisherman’s traps and fishing lines and every restaurant had all kinds of fish grilling outside.
    We met one young pilgrim along the way and did see maybe a total of 5 walkers somewhere along the way.
    Great day!
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  • Day 2

    Vila Cha >Sao Pedro de Rates

    August 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Holly Molly - if I never see another cobblestone I’ll live a happy live.
    Last night at cafe Sandra they had a Rock concert starting at 10 PM - somehow we managed to get some sleep - eventually.

    This morning we crossed over from the camino Costa to the camino central for what was supposed to be a 13 mile walk to São Pedro de Rates. 15 miles later, after miles and miles of cobblestones, we finally got to Casa Anabela. According to many blogs, there are 3 ways to do that, but 2 of the ways are somewhat defunct, but either way the markings are almost non existent.
    So when they tell you the cobblestones are awful believe them and when they say the markers are almost non existent believe that too. We walked for the first 9 miles out of Vila de Conde with maybe 2 markers. Somehow we made it and in the last 3 miles we may have seen 4 dozen markers. Whatever - I’m in my hotel room resting up a bit with a beer in my hand 😀
    The scenery was just ok - looking forward to tomorrow - only a 10 mile day - supposedly….

    Also, don’t plan to eat much walking on a Sunday in Portugal. Other than a couple of small grocery stores, everything was closed. Managed to get some fruit and a mandatory pastel de nata - so all is well.

    We ended the day with a very nice pilgrims dinner of soup, vegetable curry with rice, Santiago torte and vino tinto. Then an after dinner walk through the historic town of Rates - now all is even better ❤️
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  • Day 3

    Rates to Barcelos

    August 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Cobblestones cobblestones cobblestones…..Trail, Asphalt, Cobble cobble cobble ……asphalt asphalt

    But at least it was only 11 miles, and now we are in beautiful Barcelos across the bridge from Barcelinos, at the “In Barcelos” guest house with a beautiful room by the main plaza. We fist checked into Guest house Ana until we figured out that my reservation is for 2024 - lol

    We’ve met a few pilgrims from the US in Rates yesterday, and a few pilgrims today in Barcelos, from Brazil, Austria and Ukraine.
    Everyone says that the numbers will increase drastically in September.

    Ended the day with 14.5 miles - you just always walk more than expected.
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  • Day 4

    Barcelos to Estábulo de Valinhas

    August 29, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Stoped after a little over 14 miles in Vitorino dos Piães. This is a beautiful hostel with private rooms/bathrooms and we will have dinner here as well, by Susanna who I think is the owner and she’s so sweet. Lovely room and full dinner 47 euros total!
    They have their own vineyard and I’m looking forward to tasting their green wine.
    Today we had a lovely walk with cobbles but also beautiful trails and country roads. Unfortunately I have blisters on both of my little toes, but I hope I don’t have to stop walking. Keeping fingers crossed
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  • Day 5

    Vitorinos dos Piaes to Ponte de Lima

    August 30, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After 9 miles we arrived at Ponte de Lima and the lovely Mercearia, right in the middle of the lively city.
    They are starting to decorate the city for next weeks Féria’s Novas festival which we will fortunately or unfortunately miss.
    So happy we had a short day walking as it was absolutely beautiful and we kept stopping to enjoy the scenery along the way. Left at 7 without breakfast and coffee. We arrived around noon, with just one coffee stop along the way at about 6 miles.

    We had beautiful trails and even the dreaded cobblestones were delightful as they were the really old stones and not the uneven ones we’ve been walking on for so long. We bypassed most of the small towns through countryside - that’s why no coffee for that long.

    We keep running into 2 pilgrims from the US, and last night we had a pilgrims meal with people from Italy, Switzerland and Ukraine.

    I was hoping to just lay down for the rest of the day and nurse my blisters, but there’s just too much to see for that.
    https://porto-north-portugal.com/amp/ponte-de-l…
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  • Day 6

    Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes

    August 31, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    WOW! Toughest walk on the Portuguese so far, climbing the Alto da Portela Grande.

    Another beautiful walk with gorgeous views, but wow, it was tough. We did have more pilgrims today as many start in Ponte de Lima, and we were all so relieved when we got to the top of the mountain - 1350 ft of elevation, and while some of it was on trails, some areas were very very rocky and steep. Even the 2 18 year old Portuguese guys had a hard time. We walked with these 2 kids until Rubiaes and were joined by others here and there along the way. Some more Portuguese, a brother and sister from Switzerland, and again, the 2 people from the US.

    Along the way, in one area, we saw a lot of trees being bleed to collect rubber.

    But here we are, at the Hostel Sao Sebastiao, after 12.5 miles of torture and life is amazing 🤩

    Not going anywhere for the rest of the day! Everyone has blisters so I’m not even going to mention them - lol
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  • Day 7

    Rubiaes to Tui, Spain

    September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We left Rubiaes at 7am this morning and after 13 Miles we crossed the International Bridge that connects the historic cities of Valença (Portugal) and Tui (Spain). The bridge is situated over the Mino River.

    After another 1.5 miles we reached our lovely apartment in the center of the old town and this is where we will take a rest day. Our feet need it badly!

    Portugal was fun but we are hoping for less cobblestones in Spain.
    I really enjoyed the Azulejo’s, check out the link if you want.
    https://www.portugalhomes.com/news/article/439/…

    Sadly we are leaving our pastels de Nata behind, but we’ll start seeing the Torta de Santiago which is delicious as well. Also looking forward to more Pulpo and the comforting Caldo Gallego.
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  • Day 8

    Tui Rest day

    September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    A bit of a cough and a toe blister the size of an Easter egg (slight exaggeration) 😀

    So no sightseeing today - just resting and then taking one day at a day.

    Back tomorrow!

  • Day 10

    Back in Lisbon - abandoning the Camino

    September 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    Yesterday we took a cab from TUI to Valença and then the train to Lisbon - total 8 hours. Tomorrow we’re flying back home.

    We could not go on. Laurie and I were both exhausted and I have a bad cough, so we’re calling it quits and we’re not bummed or disappointed at all, just looking forward to getting home.
    Total miles walked on the camino - about 90 miles

    It was just too much. I think the problem was that we did not make the Camino a priority. Neither one of us had been to Portugal before and we walked miles and miles every day, exploring Lisbon and Porto. So by the time we started the Camino we were already tired and our feet started complaining about the cobbles.

    Lesson learned - decide if you’re going to walk the Camino or if you’re going on vacation. Or plan you’re sightseeing for the end, just make sure you start the camino healthy.
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