• Scott Kline
  • Scott Kline

Greenland & The Arctic Circle

Scott and Rob's adventures to the North Pole, or somewhere close Read more
  • Trip start
    July 30, 2026

    Nuuk, Greenland

    July 31 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    This morning we flew to Nuuk, the capital of Greenland to meet up with our ship, the Viking Polaris and the rest of our cruise passengers. Greenland has hundreds of small islands all along its coast line which you really don't notice just looking at Google Maps. We just had time to get checked into the ship, take our luggage to the room and have a quick dinner before our first excursion.
    We booked a private boat tout to Puffins Island. It is about an hour from the pier just across from our ship. The small boat company took us about an hour through many of the islands until we finally arrived at a small round island that is a Puffin nesting ground. There were at least a thousand Puffins living there in the small mud caves that they dig into the side of the island. In each of these tiny caves they live, make a nest and hatch their eggs every year. The Puffins mate for life and return to this island every year. It is only one of many islands inhabited by Puffins. They leave the island, fly to the ocean and dive for fish to feed their offspring. We are visiting late in the season, so we did not see any hatchlings. They are already grown enough to fly off on their own. We spend a lot of time circling the island viewing the Puffins in their nests, flying overhead and going back and forth from the island to the sea fishing for food. Soon they will migrate out to the ocean for the season and will return next season to start another family.
    It was a great experience seeing an untouched piece of nature.
    Read more

  • Nuuk, Greenland

    August 1 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Today we had a scenic tour of Nuuk and after the tour, stayed in town to walk around on our own and see the sights. Yesterday the local guides on the boat recommended a few places to visit. One was an artisan business that specializes in hand carved artwork using reindeer antlers and whale bone. We did buy a magnet in the shape of Greenland made from Reindeer antler. The second place we visited was the only coffee roasting shop in Greenland. It's hard to believe that there is only one shop that roasts its own coffee beans in all of Greenland. But the population of the entire island is about 50K. And it's the largest island on the planet.
    We then walked along the ocean bay on the boardwalk built between the large apartment complexes and the ocean. There are also many brightly painted houses along the shore. That is the tradition of the Danish people and Greenland is a territory of Denmark, so it makes sense. The colors of the buildings mean something. Red is churches, schools, teachers, Yellow is hospitals, doctors, healthcare workers, Green is telecommunications, power, and Black is police.
    You never know what you are going to come across just walking around. We found a very old graveyard in front of a church. People are buried to that they have a beautiful view, so it faces the ocean. We did notice many native Inuit people as well as Danish people
    Finally as we walked back to the shuttle back to the ship, we happened to find a glass shop where a mother and her daughter make artwork of blown glass and fused glass. They were just opening the oven and removed an absolutely beautiful bowl that was a light blue color resembling the color is icebergs. It was not for sale, we tried... We did settle for a couple of small Christmas ornaments and glass candle holders - and forgot to take pictures before they were all packed up to make the trip back home.
    All in all a great day discovering the capital of Greenland.
    Read more

  • Itilleq Fjord, Greenland

    August 2 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Overnight we sailed to Itilleq, a very small town with about 100 people. They live a simple life, hunt and fish during the summer to store the food to eat during the winter. There are no roads to the other towns in Greenland from here, so they use boats to transport what they need from other areas.
    Our excursion was a visit to a home of the residents. They welcomed us in and offered us tea, coffee and a view of their way of life in Greenland. The town is very small, so they get around by walking, 4-wheelers and snowmobiles in the winter. During the winter the bay freezes over and they go out on the ice to drill a hole and ice fish for salmon, halibut and other fish that live under the ice during the winter months. They have internet access and their children have a teacher in the early years and then use Zoom for additional education. There is no doctor, only a nurse practitioner, so anyone needing medical attention is taken by boat to the nearly larger city. It really is a natural, rustic life and everyone we met was so nice, even though many foreign people were taking over their town for a day.
    The houses were the usual bright colors, with the graveyard overlooking the ocean. Scott made friends with a very young puppy that would grow up to be a sled dog. They use sleds and dogs during the winter to get around in the snow and snow covered ice.
    It was really an eye opening experience as to how people can live a much simpler life, be happy and make a future in Greenland.
    Read more

  • Ilulissat Greenland

    August 3 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Today we arrived in Ilulissat early in the morning. It was very foggy and she ship had to maneuver slowly to avoid the icebergs, growlers and bergy-bits (that's a thing, look it up). Once we arrived in Ilulissat the crew launched the Zodiac boats. We are not using the tenders today, but the smaller 10 person Zodiac inflatable boats to get from the ship to the shore. There was also another ship already here outside of the bay that we saw in Nuuk, so they must be following a similar itinerary to ours.
    The first excursion was a 'hike' along a boardwalk from the museum, along a valley covered with natural summer flowers, berries and vegetation. Then up to the rocky cliff on the edge where the glacier descends from the mountains into the bay. They glacier moves extremely slowly and breaks off, or calves, off into the icebergs that float out into the bay and then finally the ocean. Unfortunately we cannot have sunny days every day, so today was foggy and drizzly, so we had to wear our waterproof pants, boots and jackets. Where the glacier meets the bay is an immense wall of ancient ice many centuries old created by millennia of snow packed on top of snow that eventually makes it was down to the ocean. It was an amazing sight of nature.
    Then we had a visit to a Greenlandic sled dog home where they raise native Greenland dogs that pull the sleds during the winter for ice fishing on the frozen bay. It takes 13 dogs to pull the sled. Once they finish with fishing it is about 1,500 pounds of fish. So the dogs pull all the fish, fishing gear, people and sled back. They do this almost every day to fish for their own use for eating and to sell to the fish factory near the bay. This is how the locals that have sled dogs gather their own food and make money selling them for export to Denmark. Only a few of the locals have fishing licenses that allow them to do this and sell the fish for export. The dogs are considered adults when they are 6 months old and are trained to pull the sleds. They are not pets, but working dogs. They live outside all year long. We were able to visit with the husband and wife that own the sled dogs, breed them and use them for their fishing business. They train the dogs in the summer using the same sleds to prepare them for the winter. We were able to handle some new puppies that were just 14 days old. There were some older pups that were near the age to begin as sled dogs. We could not play with them since they are not 'pets', but working dogs.
    Once we were back onboard the ship, the skies cleared up some and the sun came out finally. We were able to see more icebergs and also a few humpback whales in the bay. They we set sail for our overnight trip to the next port.
    Read more

  • Uummannaq, Greenland

    August 4 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    This morning we arrived in Uummannaq, a small island. As we sail farther north, there is daylight almost 24 hours a day. The midnight sun happens during the summer months. The opposite happens in the winter where there is darkness almost all day. The town was founded in 1758 and contains the oldest human remains in Greenland, almost 500 years ago. The town is small with just over 1,500 natives that live here year round. They have the usual hunting and fishing, with ice fishing and seal hunting on the frozen bay during the winter months.
    We had a high speed opt boat excursion in the bay and were able to see some whales. There are videos of 2 whales.
    We then took a zodiac to shore and visited the town. There was a historic house made by layering peet moss and stone. This is the way that the original settlers made their houses - from what they could find naturally. There are no trees in Greenland.
    We then visited another sled dog and fishing home. It is the same as the one we visited before where the dogs over 6 months are chained and raised to pull very heavy sleds on the frozen sea ice during the winter months. These are not pets, they are working dogs raised to work and replace snowmobiles and modern machinery. The locals sled out onto the ice, fish with long lines of hooks, then bring salmon and halibut back to town on the sleds. It can be over 1,500 pounds of fish per sled per day. This use of the sled dogs was perfected by the Thule people in Greenland over 1,000 years ago so that they could have food during the winter. The fish are also used to feed the dogs. Seals are used for human clothing, their meat for food and also to feed the dogs. Scraps of seal skin and blubber are fed to the dogs to slow their digestion and give them energy from the fat.
    We then walked to Santa's north pole mailbox for some pics. A quick stop into the local (only) grocery store for some local pastries and then a zodiac ride back to the ship.
    Read more

  • Sea Day - Baffin Bay

    August 5, Baffin Bay ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    Today is a day at sea crossing Baffin Bay from Greenland into the Northwest Passage of Canada.
    In the morning there was fog all around us and all of a sudden, within 30 seconds, we were out of the wall of fog into blue skies and calm ocean. Much better for whale and seal watching. Hopefully we will see both...Read more

  • Pond Inlet, Mittimatalik, Canada

    August 6 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    This morning we arrived at Pond Inlet, our first stop in Canada. It is a spot on the shore of Baffin Island and the Northwest Passage. There are about 1,900 local year-round native Unuit inhabitants living here. They have beautiful views of the mountains, bay and glaciers. They hunt seal, caribou and fish. It sits at the beginning of Sirmilik National Park.
    There is no dock large enough for our ship, so we took Zodiacs to get onshore 10 at a time. The locals treated us to some of their dance and singing in the local recreational building. We walked the town and found the northernmost Tim Horton coffee shop (a Canadian chain). It was very rural with dirt roads, few cars and mostly 4 wheelers that the local people use to get around. They were very friendly and seemed happy to have a number of us visiting.
    Read more

  • Croker Bay, Canada

    August 7 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Today we sailed into a northern Canada remote location called Croker Bay. It is an Arctic waterway in the Qikiqtaaluk Region, Nunavut, Canada. It lies off the southern coast of Devon Island in the eastern high Arctic. 2 glaciers empty into the bay and the surrounding hills are composed of silt and sediment from the millennia of pressure from the ancient glaciers. From the bay you can see the hills, glaciers and behind them the edge of the northern Polar Ice Cap.
    We put on our arctic gear - thermal underwear, waterproof pants and hooded jacket and high waterproof boots. Even though it was a beautiful sunny day, it can get cold when you are away from the ship out on the bay.
    In the morning we were on the bow of the ship when it arrived and were able to see birds, a seal chilling on an kiceberg and also our first polar bear along the shore. We then had a Zodiac trip into the bay and saw a mother polar bear and her cub on an iceberg. The cub was feeding on a seal that the mother had killed to feed the cub. Our final excursion from the ship was on one of the high speed Special Operations boats. We could go farther away from the ship and get closer to the second glacier. We did not see any new wildlife, unfortunately...
    Lots of pictures today of the scenery, glaciers and wildlife.
    Read more

  • Beechey Island, Canada

    August 8 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    After sailing overnight, we arrived at Beechey Island. It is the final place that the Franklin Expedition of 1845 ended when their ships were frozen in the ice and everyone died in the extreme cold of the arctic winters. They were looking for the elusive northwest passage from the east to the west as a trade route. There are graves on the island marking some of the men buried there and monuments to their memory.
    We took zodiacs to land on the rocky beach there and walked on clearly marked trails over the beach to the graves. Our guides described their journey and final burial spots. Before we were allowed on the island, expedition team members were sent with rifles to scout the area to make sure it was safe for us and there were no polar bears, musk oxes or seals around. They watched over the area while we were on land just in case any wildlife showed up for us as a quick meal.
    We also took a high speed boat around the island to get a better look of the mountains made of millennia of silt deposits by glaciers melting into the bay and ocean.
    On our way out of the bay the captain took the ship into the ocean ice field. The ship is special since it has a reinforced hull to protect it from the sea ice and small icebergs. We could see the ice crack and move away from the ship as we pushed through the sea ice. There were some seals in the distance laying on the sea ice. Probably just resting. Since they were far out from land they did not have to worry about being hunted by the polar bear.
    Read more

  • Dundas Harbor, Canada

    August 9 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Today we stopped at Dundas Harbor, another archaeological site in the far north of Canada. There was a settlement created here by the Canadian government in the early 1900's to show that Canada was inhabiting the area. They then resettled a small population of Inuit people to live here. The settlement did not last long due to the harsh winters and supply delivery once a year. There are a few of the original buildings still standing but noone lives here now.
    First thing that the expedition team did was to look for polar bears on the shore. They thought that there were 2 of them, but they turned out to be Arctic Hares. Scott and a few others with binoculars thought that they were polar bears, but they turned to the 'Hare Bears'. They expedition team went on shore and scoped out the landing site to make sure everything was safe. If there was even a single polar bear sighting we could not land or have any excursions due to safety concerns. Even the zodiacs and kayaks could be cancelled since the bears are fast swimmers.
    We had a wet landing on the shore and walked around what is left of the settlement. There was also an archaeological team on the land opposite where we were. They visited out expedition team and gave our archaeologist some artifacts that they found to take back for cataloging and further review since they prove that the Inuit people settled in this region centuries ago.
    Read more

  • Sisimiut, Greenland

    August 11 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    This morning we arrived at the port of Sisimiut. It is Greenland's second largest city with a population of about 5,500 people. It is the fastest growing city due to the fishing industry.
    Our excursion was 3.5 hours and a hike to the top of Sisimiut mountain. It was a rough hike and really steep with rocky roads and we also walked on the tundra. The goal was to get to the top of the mountain with an overview of their lake, bay and the city. Unfortunately, we hiked to the top and did enjoy views along the way, but it was foggy. So, the views were not so great. Can't complain though since this was the only day of the 2 week trip that the weather did not cooperate with us. We were able to visit with more of the Greenland sled dogs along the way and view the lake that is fed by melting glacier ice. It is their drinking water and very, very pure.
    The hike was about 7 miles and we made good use of the boot washing station on the ship to clean our shoes since it was a really rugged hike.
    Now back to the ship to pack for our trip back home...
    Read more

  • Trip end
    August 13, 2026