Heat Wave

Today’s high was predicted to be 88 degrees, so we planned to leave at 6:15 am. It was closer to 6:40, but we considered it a success. The failure, however, was that because I followed directions and dropped my key in the box on the fourth floor, where we stayed, we didn’t have access to the second floor where the coffee machine lives.

The first couple of towns we went through were still closed, so I trudged on. I’d had no breakfast and nothing in my pack to snack on (poor planning!). However, as soon as I remembered that I’d stowed away a jelly packet Missy hadn’t used in Roncesvalles, I decided that was the same as an energy gel and sucked it down.

At the seven mile mark we rounded a curve at the top of a long climb and a sign proclaiming “World’s Best Coffee” was in front of us. And right then it absolutely was! Today’s kindness was a fellow pilgrim who bought Missy a shell — the symbol of the Camino — to hang from her pack because he didn’t think she had one. She does; it had been tucked in a pocket and wasn’t visible when he was behind her. He said he’d give it someone else.

We walked up to the ridge where the windmills are. At the peak is a sculpture of pilgrims — and a shady set of steps on which to rest and enjoy the view and the breeze.

While the up was steady but doable, the descent was over a much shorter distance. Missy’s new shoes have given her wings, and she sailed down while I struggled with the loose gravel on the path. There was a detour once it flattened out, so instead of walking on the dirt road we spent a lot of time following tractor tracks through wheat field.

Because so much of this area is fields rather than the woods we’d been in, the heat really is relentless. We are glad that we left early, but even at 10 am we were sweating. Rolling into the hostel right at 1:30 check in meant we didn’t have to wait for showers or the washing machine. We have a private room — 39 steps up. We share the bathroom with the dorm floor — 20 steps down. That first time up the stairs was particularly rough.

However, there is a saying that the Camino provides, and today it did. As we walked through the door there was a sign that said “Massages”. Didn’t matter how much it was (it was reasonable), we signed up immediately.

We found a bar that wasn’t on siesta and had some food and a beer before going back for our massages. I’m positive my walking tomorrow will be much better.

We grabbed dinner with Nikki and chatted with people we recognized as they walked by. We take a rest day on Monday and she doesn't, so we won't see her after that. I wonder how long until we all begin to stagger our stages and stops.

Today was 15 miles; tomorrow will be around 13.5, but it's supposed to be even hotter, so we're planning another early start.Read more