Nothing Hurts

Today was amazing! The ups were fast, the downs didn’t hurt my knees, my hips (they don’t lie) were fine. Found my Camino legs? Nope. Found Spain’s much stronger version of Aleve. That stuff works. I’m sure it was just masking pain that is trying to tell me something, but it’s not like I was gonna pay attention anyway.

I had my usual chocolate croissant and coffee for breakfast. I was chatting with Meg and asked if she thought one could gain weight doing the Camino. She said she had on the Portuguese route last year.

Challenge accepted.

We passed the famous wine fountain, which has one tap for water and one for wine, but alas, the wine side had only a few drops.

It’s a hard slog in the heat with no shade. This isn’t what I expected, but it’s what I’ve got to deal with. Tomorrow is 17.5 miles, and the goal is to leave at five am. (History says that means 5:30.)

There is a festival in Los Arcos this weekend. When we checked in we were told they’d be running bulls through the streets, so after naps and showers we went to the square to eat and watch some bulls go by.

We ended up being barricaded in, and they swung large wooden fences to close off the alleys. It was a lot of sweaty standing (my feet did not appreciate that) for about 3 minutes of actual bull watching. The bulls were pretty clearly over it after the first run, as was I. Our hotel is just down the alley, so I climbed through a couple of barricades and went back to pack up.

Missy has some bad blisters, so she is doing a pack transfer tomorrow. As long as you arrange the night before, a company will pick up your bag from where you’re staying and drop it off at your hostel in the next town. Missy had to pay online, but a lot of times you just leave money in the envelope that you attach to your bag. It’s usually seven or eight euros.

Some people send the whole pack; others have a duffel bag to put things in but prefer to keep the pack with them. She is sending the whole pack and will carry a daypack with water and snacks. I am adding a few things to her pack to lighten my load for the day — leggings, a long sleeve shirt, my raincoat, and my sleeping bag liner. Three of the four I’ll probably send home with her, but I’m afraid to send too much tomorrow lest I get used to a lighter pack!

I went to Mass after they cleared the barricades. The church was spectacular — and cold. I’ve forgotten what it’s like to be cold. After Mass the priest does a blessing of the pilgrims. Now to bed for our early start.Read more