Burgos Rest Day

Missy and I had one last cafe breakfast before she left for the train station. Even though it was fairly early there was a cafe open not far from the apartment.

The Spanish tortilla is basically an egg and potato omelette that’s served like a slice of cake. They are common all day long, and are a staple at most of the food stops along the Camino. They had one at the cafe today that had something piled on top, which turned out to be Spanish ham and aioli. (Had to clarify before ordering lest those dark chunks be mushrooms.) The ham was very salty so it almost reminded me of country ham in white gravy.

After we said goodbye I hobbled to the pharmacy for some blister care and was lucky enough that this one had an ankle brace as well. I went to the square by the Cathedral for another cup of coffee while I waited for 11 am Mass. Around 10:30 I went in to the tourist center to ask where a I should go in, and he said Mass was starting now, so I slid in a couple if minutes late. There are two chapels where they offer Mass and specify no tourists.

After the service I bought a ticket to see the rest of the Cathedral. Tickets are half price for pilgrims with credentials, and you can get a stamp on the way out. Ran into Mim and Kathy.

I spent most of the afternoon just hanging out and resting my ankle. I’m shipping my full pack tomorrow, just carrying the bare minimum in the day pack. The transport companies don’t pick up from apartments, so I decided to drop mine at the same hotel around the corner Missy had had hers shipped to on Friday. Sometimes places charge if you aren’t a guest there; they hadn’t for the incoming, but handing one over seemed more obvious, so I expected they might.

I packed and took it over there on my way to get dinner so I wouldn’t have to backtrack in the morning and there’d be no pressure about leaving in time. It’s so cool that beating the heat isn’t a necessity, so I wanted the flexibility. Although I’d reserved and paid online, you still have to have the tag to attach to your bag. Most accommodations have them easily visible, but this hotel did not, so I needed to ask for one. A guest had an issue so I had to wait to talk to the clerk.

While I was waiting, a group of cyclists pulled up outside. Their jerseys said “Death Valley” and something underneath that included ‘ALS’. While I was trying to decide if it was THE ALS, one guy turned around and the back said “End ALS”. I started talking with them and they are making a documentary. This time they are riding across Spain rather than through Death Valley. They introduced me to their friend and founder Jamie, who’s been diagnosed for nine years. They asked me if they could film me saying something in Spanish (that I screwed up) supporting their cause.

It was all very emotional for me. When I finally had my bag tag and was ready to hand over the pack the clerk just took it, either because I’d been crying or because I was clearly so friendly with a large group of guests. Or because he’s a nice guy and didn’t care either way about bag services for non-guests.

I found a cafe with a varied menu and still ordered patatas bravas. However, I did try beer mixed with lemon that several folks had at lunch yesterday, and it was very refreshing.Læs mere