Point A to Point B

Today was long. It was only 14-ish miles and relatively flat, so it shouldn’t have seemed so hard. I was still exhausted from the two rock days, though, and it got really hot in the afternoon. I immediately regretted the decision to carry my pack. It flashed through my mind that it was still early, I could slap an envelope on it and let JacoTrans take it for me, but that would have required backtracking, something I work very hard to avoid.

I didn’t have much energy the first four miles. I was completely alone for most of that, but, of course, I ran into Tom and Yvonne at the first available food stop on the outskirts of Ponferrada. The tortillas were hefty, so I happily ordered that and a cup of coffee. They went ahead, then we all got a text from Mim showing the beautiful breakfast she and Kathy had just had at a restaurant outside the Castle of the Knights Templar in town.

Off I went to find that place, all of ten minutes away. I know I’d just eaten, but that picture of fresh fruit and yogurt she sent seduced me, and I hadn’t had a chocolate croissant in at least a day. A street musician was playing, and I was writing yesterday’s full post, so I sat there enjoying the day like I was staying in Ponferrada and didn’t have ten more miles to go.

Then when I did finally leave, I didn’t have any energy from having eaten so much and just wanting a nap.

You leave the town by walking through a long park paralleling the river, which gave me brief flashbacks to the walk in to Burgos. A woman said Buen Camino, then stopped to ask where I was from. We chatted for a few moments, then she said she and her friends had something for me, some encouragement, and handed me a cute, handmade card with a Bible verse written inside — and a link to the Jehovah’s Witness website.

About three miles later I was passing through a small town where people were gathering outside the church. I sat on a bench and looked up the Mass time, which was listed as 12:30. It was only 11:30, but there were several people, so I went inside and sat in the back. Mass started at 11:45. Like last week, there was no collection, but today I noticed people dropping money in a basket on the way out the door. I must have missed that last week with the procession out into the streets. Also like last week, it seems if you sit in the back you don’t intend to go to communion. A full third of the church just doesn’t move. I actually missed communion last week because I was so confused why nobody was getting up, but this week I guess I see the pattern.

I moved on, stopped in another small town for an Aquarius, and kept going. It was hot again today, and there wasn’t much shade. Starting to see grapevines again. The walking was mostly on country roads, sidewalks, or smooth paths, and, though not as flat as advertised, any hills were fairly easy. I passed two non-working fountains, which was becoming a concern. Finally, right at the edge of town, one was flowing. The hiker in front of me clearly had been looking as well, because he immediately stuck his head under it.

I got to the hotel a little after the 3 pm check in time. The couple from the Brazilian dinner last night was also waiting to check in. They looked as hot as I was and had already had a drink to kill time. I’d been dreaming of getting to my room, stripping down, and flopping on the bed, so it was frustrating to have to wait, especially past the stated check-in. Worse for them, I’m sure.

My room has a beautiful enclosed terrace, but it’s too hot to be out there or even have the doors open. Kathy and Yvonne were texting about river access and dinner plans, but I don’t want to move. Ever again. I napped and finally took a shower. Knew I should go find some food since I hadn’t eaten since breakfast number two, but my feet want none of it. Rough day for the blister.

I did finally drag myself out of the room about 9 to find some food. There’s a little food-court type area here which was still open. I also grabbed a big bottle of water to down before tomorrow and a bag of peanuts just to start with something in my pack. Like yesterday, it rained in the late afternoon, cooling everything down.

I’ll probably send some stuff with JacoTrans tomorrow, since I know where I’m going to be staying, and it’s an even longer day. We have a big climb in two days and, like Yvonne, I don’t want to risk what blister progress I’ve made by doing things I don’t have to now.Læs mere