Days Without A Chocolate Croissant — Two
June 21 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C
The trick to avoiding so many people on the trail is to leave later. Today, that meant 6:00 am. I could hear people on my floor getting ready a little after four, and by 4:30 there was a steady stream of voices going by my window. There was also a LOT of lightening happening out there. At 5:30 am I was sure party-goers were stumbling home from the big bonfire (I don’t think there was a bonfire), but it was just the teens loudly glomping their way out of town. By the time Mim and Kathy met me at my place, I was pretty convinced we were the last ones to leave.
Despite the lightening, some thunder, and the Weather Channel’s “96% chance of rain in the next hour” prediction, we didn’t get a drop, although there were some muddy sections further along that indicate it probably did rain there.
I finally figured out that last night’s run was a half marathon from Palas de Rei to Melide, which explains why they were starting in the evening, after all pilgrims were off the trail, and also why the announcer kept saying “Camino” last night — “Camino! Camino! Camino!” The signs every kilometer were a hint, as were the piles of empty water bottles at various points. When we walked in to Melide I was happy to see a crew heading out to pick up signs and, hopefully, trash.
We reached our first town at 6:59 am. Seeing everything closed, Kathy walked on through, just as the cafe owner put out the sign. We could smell fresh bread, but she was too far ahead to get her attention, so Mim and I sulked on, waiting for the next town, where we finally got our coffee. I texted Yvonne that I miss running into them in the cafes.
Today’s paths were mostly easy again, but I do get a little put out each time we have to climb a hill. Haven’t we done enough of that? Can’t we just cruise into Santiago? Apparently not. It wouldn’t be so annoying if you didn’t climb up just to go down. Then back up.
It got hot quickly today. We had lovely woods and shade in the morning, then a lot of road walking in the afternoon. When we stopped at mile 12 for an Aquarius, I decided to switch into my Tevas. I’d worn my hiking shoes this morning, and I could feel them rubbing the ball of the other foot. When I first put on my pack this morning I panicked for a second thinking I’d forgotten something, because it was so light. Then I remembered I was wearing, not carrying, the heavy shoes. The day had felt fairly easy up until the switch, but the extra weight in my pack the last four miles was very noticeable.
I had already decided if the public albergue didn’t have a bed (and with the class groups on the trail they might not) that I would taxi forward to the next town. It’s only two miles, but I wasn’t making a 16.5 mile walk any longer. On a whim I popped into the place Kathy and Mim are staying, literally the first across the bridge into town, just before the albergue, and asked if they had any rooms. They had one left, which is a triple. Kathy and Mim are right next door, and Erika and Christina are downstairs, so at times it’s felt like a dorm room with everyone popping in and out.
We went across the street to the bar first thing and decided to go ahead and order dinner. On Sunday we’re never sure what will be open when. The teens were there, so it took forever even to get our first beers. When we were finally done, we wanted to put our feet in the river before showering. We sat on the edge for about 10 minutes, then here came the teens. Kathy and Mim went to our hostel’s pool, but it was too hot for me to sit on the edge.
We pooled our laundry, so now can walk into Santiago in clean clothes. We know the teens plan to leave at 6:00 am tomorrow, so we will go at 6:30. By the time we reach the first town there should be coffee available and the kids should be far ahead. It’s “only” a 13.5 mile day, so we’re hoping to be having our cervezas con limón by 1:00 pm. (This is how we plan our days — coffee and cervezas.)Read more