Alta

Our last two proper nights are spent in Alta. This part of Norway has a small population which isn't surprising given how hostile the environment must be in winter. They have one month of spring and we are here in April so it is not yet regarded as the end of winter. Alta is 400 km North of the Arctic circle within the region of Finnmark. It is famous for viewing the Aurora Borealis because it sits just below the circle created by lights. To actually get to see the lights is not that easy and clearly people in this region have built a business on identifying the most ideal conditions, this means they have to have information on the weather, sunspot activity and the intensity of the potential show.

We have a choice of excursions and unfortunately for us the timing is not great our excursion is dog sledding in the morning which means an early rise. Then after dinner we are to be taken to the best position for seeing the Northern lights. The weather gods for these last 2 days have not disappointed we again have a clear and sunny day with very light wind. The park where the excursion will take place is nearby so it is just a short bus ride. Grateful again that we bought crampons very early in the trip, it is very icy.

The dog sledding takes place in a very open lightly forested area with few houses around it. The person who set up the enterprise had a passion for sled dog racing and has made a business out of breeding the dogs and offering the opportunity to tourists to go in a dog sled whilst also continuing to race. These races can be 1,000 km in length and take a week, to finish is regarded as an achievement. Initially I wasn't that interested in it, it seemed a bit touristy but it was in fact an accelerating experience. You are in the snow in a pristine part of the world and that in itself is so pleasurable.

When we arrived, the first thing we hear are the howls of the Alaskan Huskies. There are probably 30 to 40 dogs that we can see when we arrive. They are very sociable and really want to engage with you. It was really enjoyable to simply spend time with the dogs patting and being around them. You can't help but love the enthusiasm for going out with the sleds. We are taken out in small groups with two people on the sled and the 'musher'. Interestingly, these are predominantly young women. Once in the sled we travel over uneven ground through the trees and along the paths through the snow. Initially I am thinking about the scenery, the trees, snow and the mountains however, as we continue, it becomes more fascinating to just sit and watch the dogs as they pull us along. There are six dogs per sled, the first two are the stronger and the leaders. If they decide there is something on the side of the path, such as pee from another dog, that they are interested in these two dogs try to move towards it, the next two dogs want to find out what all the action is about and the last two simply stay with the sled. The two lead dogs also interact as they both want to be out in front, very common dog behavior. This is quite funny to watch. The personalities of the dogs of course determine their position in the team. It feels like we are going quite fast because we are so close to the ground, but I doubt that is the case. It is a bumpy ride. The musher has complete control over her dogs so although they might try and check out things along the way, she can bring them back in line.

There is a shuttle bus provided for us to go into town. It is a very small place, but it is always interesting to look around new places. Unfortunately we forget it's Sunday so not much is open but that's okay. It's less about shopping and more about seeing the town and having a walk around unguided crampons were definitely needed. The paths were quite icy and slippery, but I feel so much more secure walking knowing I have spikes on the end of my feet.

After dinner we board a bus. At this point we do not know how long it will take and where we will be taken to search for the lights. We drive for about an hour and in my estimation that was about as far as the company takes people to see the lights. It's snowing almost the entire way. It didn't look particularly promising when we left the boat so it's not really a surprise. We get to the appointed viewing area and there is a tent tent setup with a fire inside and seats all around similar to those of the Sami which we've seen throughout this part of Norway. We can also sit outside. There are two fires which look very cozy with seats covered in reindeer skin. Unfortunately it continues to snow so it is very cold. It becomes clear that our chance of seeing any Aurora Borealis that night was going to be negligible. We head back on the first bus arriving back on the ship after midnight grateful for a warm bed.Read more