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Norway and the Artic Circle

March - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Julie Read more
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  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    Day 3–6

    Melbourne to Paris, long journey (24-27)

    March 26 in France ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Our trip to Paris has involved one night in Sydney, over night in Tokyo, two nights in London and two more nights in central Paris - Gare du Nord. Five countries, five hotels (airport hotel tomorrow night) over seven days. Yes there were times I wondered why we decided to do it this way but at the planning stage you forget about the hassles of packing and unpacking, transport and trains and focus on the destination not the journey.

    All Nipon Airlines business class is the best we have flown. Food was amazing, I elected to have the Japanese meal. The seats for the long haul leg provided us with more room than we have ever had before. Both legs were during the day so we arrived in London at a sensible hour, 2.30pm. The airport hotel was a short walk and very comfortable. Next time we will choose a better hotel in Tokyo though.

    To get to Paris we plan to take the Eurostar given we had not had that experience before. The challenge however was how to get from Heathrow airport with two not quite 20 kilos suitcases, two carry-on cases plus two bags. It was therefore a prudent decision to have a trial run of getting to St. Pancras where the Eurostar would leave and try and avoid escalators with so much luggage. We had to change trains twice and take two different lines but it was successful and something we knew we would be able to do the next day. I had arranged to catch up with friends and we met at St. Pancras. This was a station I was unfamiliar with and is around the corner from what could best be described as a ' gothic pile'. A Victorian hotel with turrets and ornamentation. Can't imagine how expensive it would be to stay there. We wandered off to the British library where we had a very pleasant lunch and an opportunity to sit and chat as we watched the rain outside.

    The next adventure was getting back from Central London. The obvious was to go back the way we came. We had after all paid a small fortune for two return tickets to London and one one way ticket, cost $100. On arrival at Paddington station we were greeted with the news that an electrical fault meant trains would be delayed for more than half an hour. We were dubious as to whether they would run at all so to ensure we got back we paid another $70 for one way on the Heathrow Express. We were concerned as to whether the problem would continue the following day when it would matter. The electrical fault however was resolved and we got to St. Pancras before 10:00. a.m.

    Our adventure to get to Paris continued. When these arrangements were made we had no idea that we would be traveling so close to Easter, our 11:30 train to Paris was the day before Good Friday. The station was packed. We were told we must be there before they close the gates half an hour before the train leaves. We joined the queue just after 10:00 a.m. and it took almost an hour and a half to get from where we started in the queue to actually sitting on the train. Two passport controls one for leaving the UK and one for entering the EU. All I can think is thanks Brexit. The waiting area was standing room only as the train earlier had been delayed, which to some extent explains why there were so many people everywhere and almost no information. The train ride was uneventful but I can't help but reflect on the fact that we were at Heathrow and had we caught a flight to Paris it possibly would not have cost anymore and possibly would have saved us quite a lot of time. From leaving the hotel at 8:30 in the morning, we arrived at our hotel in Paris at 2:30 in the afternoon. At least we can now. So we have been on the Eurostar. It is very much like traveling on any other high-speed European train which we do enjoy.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    22
    Day 6–9

    Next stop Paris (28-31)

    March 29 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    It's Good Friday and we are in Paris. Tomorrow is my 70th birthday. Plan was for us to be in Amman, Jordon. The Middle East now a conflict zone put paid to that so we are going north instead. The decision to take Eurostar to Paris began to look a little wobbly once we reached St Pancras . We left the hotel at 8:30 to make sure that in the event there were any disruptions on the train line we would still make the train. We made it in time to sit down and have a very pleasant cup of coffee at the station with of course all our luggage. It was the Thursday before Easter and it seemed that everyone was wanting to travel which is expected.The went along way through the station and around the block. This was a little daunting at the time but it turned out many of the people were there for the previous train. We had been warned. We must turn up at least 30 minutes beforehand (our train was at 11:30) as the gate closes half an hour beforehand. We joined the queue at around 10:30 and it took almost until 11:30 before we are able to board the train. The waiting area was chaotic as the train before was late. I couldn't help but reflect on the fact that we were at Heathrow airport and could have so easily have flown and then taken another train to Gare du Nord.

    Not much point reflecting on that. However, when we had already bought tickets and we were on our way. Very uneventful the train ride very much like any other fast train you come across in Europe. The train arrived pretty much on time and we stepped out, cross the street and were at our hotel '25 hours'.

    This chain of hotels presents a more quirky experience for travellers, then for example the Hilton. Bob commented that there is a fine line between quirky and functional and quirky and inconvenient. We have stayed here before and had an excellent room, this time however, although the room was spacious it was only because there was a small hallway between the toilet and the bedroom. The decor was very much a throwback to what might otherwise be regarded as junk. A functioning record player on top of tin trunks formed a table. However, it wasn't as if we were going to spend much time in the room and it was comfortable. The breakfast room overlooks the station and on a nice day it is a lovely place to sit, unfortunately the weather was not kind to us, drizzly and overcast.

    The location is excellent because apart from the train which takes you directly to Charles de Gaulle airport, it is surrounded by a number of small restaurants. We dine in one of those and crash early.

    The big day has arrived, I have turned 70. We are still tired both from jet lag and the travel we have done up to this point. Bob has on numerous occasions asked me what I want for my birthday I have no idea, given many of us who reach this age do not have a need for anything much. One idea comes to mind, given we are in Paris a nice trinker to remember the day is what I settle on. Unsurprisingly, after all these years together, Bob picks up on the idea that that just might be something involving jewellery, which of course is what I had in mind. He has already googled local potential jewellery shops and we head off to gaze in windows to fnd something suitable. This takes us to a part of Paris, little India, where there are numerous shops selling sarees and wedding jewellery. Not quite what I had in mind. The struggle I have is I want something that doesn't look cheap or fake, isn't overly ostentatious but at least is a small statement piece, I know a tall order. Fortunately the first shop window I looked in had a pair of earrings I liked and at a price that I thought was not excessive. We headd back there and purchase my trinket.

    That task completed we head out for a walk in an area that unfamiliar to us. We had towards the canal and the day does brighten a little bit. After quite a long walk we find a small local bar and stop for lunch. It was very local and the food was good.

    The next task is to get ourselves to Charles de Gaulle airport where we will spend the evening before an early flight the next day to Tromso. I suggested we leave the luggage at the hotel given it was close by rather than standing acute with suitcases. It is the Saturday before Easter and it seems everyone in Paris is wanting to catch a train to somewhere and for whatever reason there are no staff selling tickets and no staff helping with the machines which dispense a small paper ticket. It's hard to imagine this can possibly be worth their while given most modern cities and train systems will accept a credit card at the gate. Not Paris. We staying in a queue for 40 minutes and with the help of a local succeed in buying our two tickets and we head out to the airport.

    Dinner in the hotel to celebrate my birthday and early to bed before having to rise at 5:30 to catch our flight.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    Day 8

    Tromsø our next adventure

    March 31 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    We had an early night because our flight from Paris to Tromso is at 7am. Last time we were here to also take a charter flight to start the Northwest passage cruise. Fortunately this time the charter left on time, previously we waited at the airport for some time before finding out a plane had broken down somewhere in Croatia. The flight was uneventful and we were given breakfast both on board as well as in the airport. This time we arrived in sufficient time to be given a tour of Trompso before boarding our ship. Trompso is a very long way north in Norway, part of an archipelago of islands well within the Arctic circle. It is not a large place so the tour whilst interesting did not take very long. What we did see was snow, snow, capped mountains, and pretty painted wooden houses. We did however, come across reindeer grazing by the road. We also found out about the way the indigenous people of Norway, the Sami, live. They own all reindeer in Norway and the reindeer are allowed to graze anywhere.

    I think we have a fascination with snow covered landscapes because we simply don't see vast areas of snow. Even though it is early spring, the snow comes right down to the ocean. A photographer's paradise really. We are given lunch and more time than we need because the ship is not ready to board until 4:00 p.m. This does give us an opportunity to walk around Trompso a little bit.

    Finally boarding time and we go through what is now a very regular routine, get into our room. Do as much unpacking as possible, put out the laundry. Wait for the mandatory drill and information session. This is followed by a welcome by the captain with champagne and finally we get to sleep. What is new for us however, is that because this is not an expedition cruise we do not have the number of naturalists on board that we are used to and therefore not the usual number of briefings. The briefing for the excursion the next day is quite short because it is simply an overview of what to expect depending on which excursion you have selected.

    The captain has told us that should there be any evidence of northern lights we will be told. And true to his word. We were woken at 11:00 and again at 12:00 because there was a particularly spectacular display. We slept rather than get up dress for Arctic conditions to take pictures of the lights.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    Day 9–10

    Narvik Polar Park

    April 1 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -7 °C

    What I do appreciate about a trip that is not an expedition is that excursions leave in the morning. Our first excursion starts at 11:45 which is very civilized. We have selected the Polar Park. It is of course a bus ride, no zodiacs, the bus takes us through very, very small villages and of course we see snow and snow capped mountains. Our guide is particularly good and gives us a very good idea of how people have lived in this part of the world over the centuries.

    We don't have much of an idea what to expect, Polar Park is like an open range zoo but in this case with only animals that live in the Arctic. Our guide is a young woman and is one of the keepers so she knows a lot about the animals and animal behavior. There is no guarantee we're going to see any of the animals that are in the park because they have a very large area in which they can roam. There are fences in part to protect us from the animals but also to protect the animals from each other. In order to entice the animals to come to the fence line so that we see them, she carries a bucket of raw meat.

    In Norway it is illegal to take animals from the wild. This means only animals in the park have either always live there such as the reindeer or they have bought them from other zoos. They are not allowed, for example, to take animals that have been injured and rehabilitate them or to take animals abandoned by their mothers.

    The first enclosure has lynxs cats in it but they are disinclined to come anywhere near us. She explains they have been well-fed and like most cats are probably off sleeping somewhere. Someone had brought in a dead reindeer and they had left that in the cage with the cats so there was quite a lot of food available. We see red deer, I suspect these are the ones that have gone feral at home, a moose, they have extraordinarily long legs and musk oxen. When we were on the ship in the Northwest passage, the guides regularly told us about musk oxen. I had no idea what they were talking about or even what or how to spell the words. We eventually saw them when we got to Alaska and they look like their close relative, very large, hairy goats. The park had several of them. The park also had a number of bears, one of which had been trained to wave at tourists, I suspect trained with food.

    The animals that were most interesting included the wolverine. The bucket of meat came in very handy. The keeper threw small pieces of meat over the fence and this rather interesting and quite attractive creature would leap up in the air and onto the meat and quite close to us. We also heard the pack of wolves, beautiful creatures and the sounds they made were quite melodious. There were two arctic foxes curled up in the snow. Again reluctant to come very close However, they were hopeful of getting something to eat and walked to the fence. The keeper mentioned that they had been put on a diet. They'd put on a lot of weight over winter so they were extremely hopeful of getting food. On our way back, the keeper did manage to coax out the lynx and we were able to get a really good view. She threw meat so that he got stuck in the fence and the lynx had to jump up and grab it.

    It was a fascinating walk and we really enjoyed it, it was very cold and by the end of the walk there was a small flurry of snow which became heavier. By the time we finished our lunch. It was a spectacular park.

    The first night after arrival is usually a gala dinner. We gathered in the theater to be entertained by singers and musicians, the captain spoke and introduced key members of his crew. He is clearly someone who has a good sense of humor because he was telling jokes during his speech. Dinner as always included
    Foie gras and fine wine.

    As we are finishing our digestive at the end of the evening ready to head to bed there is an announcement of Northern lights. Back down to the cabin, rug up with our jacket and grab our cameras. We don't stand out very long but we do see the lights again.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    21
    Day 10

    Reine and Lofoten

    April 2 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    The weather gods continue to be kind to us. We again have clear blue skies, sunny day, freezing cold but good weather for aurora borealis sightings (we were not so lucky ). Our first excursion was not until 1:30 so we had time in the morning before lunch to wander through the village close to where the ship is docked. We walked past racks of drying fish, we find out later these cod. It does smell. The fish is left to dry for a number of months. Everything is closed because it is Easter Tuesday. We do find the tourist office open and I buy a very nice waterproof jacket for around $120. Much better than the jacket I brought with me.

    We are now well beyond the Arctic circle. The Lofoten Islands are quite a spectacular sight. Very pristine with jagged coastline and mountains. We are in the fiords. We travel across a number of bridges between the different islands, we saw many small villages located along the coastline as we drove. The painted wooden houses stand out against the white snow. Flat land in this area is limited and so typically houses will be close to the water with mountains to the back. The roads are good as is the general infrastructure. Not surprising given the strength of the Norwegian economy.

    We visit a traditional village with houses preserved as they would have been centuries ago. It is very icy, during the day. When the sun is shining the snow melts then at night it freezes creating a hazard. So far during the trip I don't think the temperature during the day has gone above - 5°. I have a walking pole with me and am being very careful with Bob checking that I'm not taking any risks. However, it's Bob who manages to fall. Fortunately on his well padded bum, no damage done to either himself or his camera. The local guide was not terribly helpful because he said rather angrily to me that when you're coming to the Arctic circle the first thing you should do is pack something called ' crampons' . We knew nothing of these until our Polar Park visit where we were given some to wear. A number of passengers were like us wearing runners, good walking shoes not so good on ice. One of the guides from the ship however was very helpful and pointed us to a small shop where we could buy them for about 18 euro. Very happy to have them because they simply slip over your shoes and it gives you much more grip on the ice. I suspect they'll be getting more use.

    We stopped a number of times more once to look at a church and another stop at a fishing village.

    Back to the ship, no aurora borealis though, will have to wait another day    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    Day 11

    At sea towards Hammerfest

    April 3, Norwegian Sea ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    The pace of our traveling has not been as frenetic as it usually is, so I don't feel the need for a day at Sea as much as we have in the past. However, distances can be vast and we are now on our way to Hammerfest and we are therefore at Sea .

    Given this is not an expedition Cruise, we're not having the number of briefings or lectures that we have come to enjoy in the past. We do however have two lectures the first lecture is on cetaceans. These creatures cover everything from the largest creature on Earth. The blue whale through to dolphins. It was an excellent lecture of course. And we will have the opportunity to spend more time on deck looking for whales with the naturalists. Those we might see include the fin whale, orcas, minke and humpbacks. In the afternoon I have an opportunity to try and again get my head around The physics of the Northern lights. The lecture was much less about the physics compared with the previous lecture I had listened to I now have a better understanding.

    We were greeted in the morning by snow on our balcony, it was very cold. For some of the passengers, the delight of our day at sea has been the stunning coastline as we sailed past. Small villages, snow, capped mountains and the occasional flurry of snow was spectacular. Nothing boring about the view from the ship.

    We were invited to have cocktails with the captain before dinner. This is a regular feature and pretty much a marketing exercise. Keep the regular punters happy by making them feel special is my somewhat cynical take on it. However, we did go down to what is known as the blue eye which is on the first deck and is below the water, they have created a special cocktail lounge down there with large portholes that look out into the sea. Champagne, snacks and a chat with the captain. What was interesting though was one of the young women employed by the company we had met when we went to Madagascar. It was nice to catch up with her, she was there because she is the onboard sales person.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    1111
    Day 12

    Hammerfest furthest City North

    April 4 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    Some time ago we watched a series set in Norway where there was reference to the Sami people. I have therefore been interested to know more.These are the indigenous inhabitants of Norway. Technically, however, they lived across Northern Europe and when the borders of countries were defined their land became part of Sweden, Finland, Russia and Norway. Today we got to learn a little bit more about the Sami people, the history, culture and language. Very much like our Australian Aborigines the Sami people moved between the seasons. In the winter they lived higher up in the snow and in the summer they came down to the coast. This was to provide food for the reindeer herds that they managed. They also face problems when the expectation was that they would be integrated with the people of Norway rather than live as they always had. They lost their language and culture along the way.

    As we leave the ship we see a bear carved in ice placed near the bus just for our benefit, a nice touch. Hammerfest is the most northern city in the world. Unsurprisingly it is freezing cold around -5 when we leave the ship. The city has suffered quite a lot over the decades having been destroyed by war, severe weather and fire. Each time it has been rebuilt.

    The Sami camp is just above the city. We are taken into a traditional house that would typically sleep everyone in the family and we were told about the history and culture of the people around a fire in the center of the building. The house reminded me very much of a yurt, round structure with a hole in the top to let the smoke out. The floor was covered with sticks which were then covered with reindeer skin. The family would live in here including cooking and sleeping.

    We are taken to a lookout for a view over the city. It is a great place to see the town, our ship, the sea, and the mountains beyond. A local guide tells us that she has been up here several times and has never actually seen the he view because it is usually too cloudy or foggy to see anything. We have been so lucky.

    As we sail out of the fiords whales are spotted. Our expert is really excited, on the horizon dozens of blows from the whales can be seen, she thinks they are fin whales and are feeding. One fin whale comes close to the ship, I can see it's dorsal fin and back really well.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    Day 13–16

    Bear (Bjornoya) Island

    April 5 in Svalbard and Jan Mayen ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Bear Island is the southernmost island of Svalbard and a full 24 hours sailing from the northern tip of Norway. The reason for the visit is because there are a significant number of different bird species which nest on the island. It is uninhabited and just a very Rocky outcrop. It was called Bear Island because someone in the 1500s landed there saw a polar bear and shot it. It is rare for polar bears to make it to this island.

    We sailed through significant ice flows and in the end the captain made the call that because the ship is not an icebreaker we cannot go any closer. On a positive note however, the day is clear and sunny, which means we can actually see the island. This is unusual usually it is fogbound. What we see are snow covered rocks in an ice encrusted sea.

    Although we don't get very close to the island, we still have fantastic views of the birds. Most of the birds are fulmers which fly very close to the ship. There are also flocks of guillemots, small black and white birds which sit on the ice flows to feed. Despite the fact that it is freezing cold on deck, we spend a lot of time outside watching the birds trying to take the perfect shot of a bird against the backdrop of the island mostly unsuccessfully. My quest for the day was to capture the image of a Fulmer against the backdrop of the island, not the best way to spend your time given how cold it was standing on the deck watching for a bird to pass by instead of simply looking at the wonder that is nature. I didn't quite succeed. I did however manage to capture photos of fulmers and a flock of guillemots. That was very successful because they are flying away from the island so I was pleased about that.

    In the distance we see a black blob it is impossible to make out what it is except it clearly isn't water, it turns out to be a walrus. Bob does manage to take a photo to confirm it was in fact a walrus    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    Day 14

    Alta

    April 6 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -10 °C

    Our last two proper nights are spent in Alta. This part of Norway has a small population which isn't surprising given how hostile the environment must be in winter. They have one month of spring and we are here in April so it is not yet regarded as the end of winter. Alta is 400 km North of the Arctic circle within the region of Finnmark. It is famous for viewing the Aurora Borealis because it sits just below the circle created by lights. To actually get to see the lights is not that easy and clearly people in this region have built a business on identifying the most ideal conditions, this means they have to have information on the weather, sunspot activity and the intensity of the potential show.

    We have a choice of excursions and unfortunately for us the timing is not great our excursion is dog sledding in the morning which means an early rise. Then after dinner we are to be taken to the best position for seeing the Northern lights. The weather gods for these last 2 days have not disappointed we again have a clear and sunny day with very light wind. The park where the excursion will take place is nearby so it is just a short bus ride. Grateful again that we bought crampons very early in the trip, it is very icy.

    The dog sledding takes place in a very open lightly forested area with few houses around it. The person who set up the enterprise had a passion for sled dog racing and has made a business out of breeding the dogs and offering the opportunity to tourists to go in a dog sled whilst also continuing to race. These races can be 1,000 km in length and take a week, to finish is regarded as an achievement. Initially I wasn't that interested in it, it seemed a bit touristy but it was in fact an accelerating experience. You are in the snow in a pristine part of the world and that in itself is so pleasurable.

    When we arrived, the first thing we hear are the howls of the Alaskan Huskies. There are probably 30 to 40 dogs that we can see when we arrive. They are very sociable and really want to engage with you. It was really enjoyable to simply spend time with the dogs patting and being around them. You can't help but love the enthusiasm for going out with the sleds. We are taken out in small groups with two people on the sled and the 'musher'. Interestingly, these are predominantly young women. Once in the sled we travel over uneven ground through the trees and along the paths through the snow. Initially I am thinking about the scenery, the trees, snow and the mountains however, as we continue, it becomes more fascinating to just sit and watch the dogs as they pull us along. There are six dogs per sled, the first two are the stronger and the leaders. If they decide there is something on the side of the path, such as pee from another dog, that they are interested in these two dogs try to move towards it, the next two dogs want to find out what all the action is about and the last two simply stay with the sled. The two lead dogs also interact as they both want to be out in front, very common dog behavior. This is quite funny to watch. The personalities of the dogs of course determine their position in the team. It feels like we are going quite fast because we are so close to the ground, but I doubt that is the case. It is a bumpy ride. The musher has complete control over her dogs so although they might try and check out things along the way, she can bring them back in line.

    There is a shuttle bus provided for us to go into town. It is a very small place, but it is always interesting to look around new places. Unfortunately we forget it's Sunday so not much is open but that's okay. It's less about shopping and more about seeing the town and having a walk around unguided crampons were definitely needed. The paths were quite icy and slippery, but I feel so much more secure walking knowing I have spikes on the end of my feet.

    After dinner we board a bus. At this point we do not know how long it will take and where we will be taken to search for the lights. We drive for about an hour and in my estimation that was about as far as the company takes people to see the lights. It's snowing almost the entire way. It didn't look particularly promising when we left the boat so it's not really a surprise. We get to the appointed viewing area and there is a tent tent setup with a fire inside and seats all around similar to those of the Sami which we've seen throughout this part of Norway. We can also sit outside. There are two fires which look very cozy with seats covered in reindeer skin. Unfortunately it continues to snow so it is very cold. It becomes clear that our chance of seeing any Aurora Borealis that night was going to be negligible. We head back on the first bus arriving back on the ship after midnight grateful for a warm bed.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway and the Artic Circle
    2
    Day 14

    Honningsveg and Nordkapp

    April 6 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 -1 °C

    Today's quest was to photograph whale blows in the distance I do get a few but it's so hard to see them. As we are getting up we are still sailing towards Honningsveg an announcement is made to say there are whales around the area. Ignoring breakfast, we get dressed and go out to have a look. It is freezing possibly less than -5. The number of whales together is sufficiently invigorating to forget about breakfast. There are dozens. Unfortunately it is so cold that taking pictures is really difficult when I take my glove off. Some of the whales, they are fin whales, come very close to the ship so close that we can see their back and dorsal fin

    I do manage to get some breakfast and then go back outside it seems even in the freezing cold I just can't get enough of what is out there. Eventually I give in to the cold and come back inside for hot chocolate to warm up. Back in the room on the balcony we have a very good od view and it is much warmer because there is the shelter of the ship and our room behind us. Much to my delight we see a small flock of puffins. Because they sit on the water from higher up it would be difficult to see them. Black and white small round bodies that seem to have a great difficulty in flying. They either sit in the water or they come out of the water briefly flapping their wings madly but not going very far. I'm optimistic. Bob has some good pictures. I failed.

    My next quest is to see if I can take a picture of a fulmer against the backdrop of the cliff at Nordkapp. Standing on the balcony with the occasional flake of snow. I think I managed to get a couple.

    Our excursion takes us to Nordkapp a peninsula in the far north of the island. We drive through what looks like a white desert, no trees, no vegetation, no wildlife of any kind just rolling hills of white. It is quite an extraordinary landscape, we can see the ocean and at times frozen rivers, the sides of which are just starting to melt. The path takes us to the side of the cliff, over the cliff is the ocean. Although there is some blue sky, there is a fierce wind which whips up the snow. It looks like white sand being blown across the landscape. I can't say it was a particularly pleasant walk as we were buffeted by quite strong wind. In my mind we spent far too long in this place, after our walk there was an opportunity to buy souvenirs which the cynic in me suggests was the main point of the exercise.

    The excursions have generally been good this one's the only one that I felt less enthusiastic about    Read more

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