A remote, isolated part of Indonesia

We have sailed through the Torres Strait and arrive at the mouth of an estuary. The water changes from the blue of the sea to a brackish brown water in the estuary. Our sailing has been slow up the estuary which gives us an opportunity to see the vegetation and the activity on the water of the people of Agats in the Asmat region. It is a strange place compared with where we have been. We can see a lot of boats around us but these are motorboats not rowing or sail boats as we have seen before. There are people in this area who have had no contact with the outside world. It is very tribal. It is also very clear that these people in this part of the island of New Guinea are not ethnically related to the Indonesians, the Dutch occupied West Papua when they left handed it to the Indonesians.

We have to wait here for a little while I suspect until the Indonesian immigration officials come aboard and clear us to land. This doesn't happen until after lunch. I find it pleasant just sitting on the balcony and watching what is happening outside. This is the first time we have seen more than a few birds. There are a group of terns, although I don't initially see them, I can hear them. They are quite close to the edge of the water and difficult to see. There are also very large butterflies, impossible to photograph but I do try. I'm pleased that I have the binoculars because I can see what's going on a lot better.

Today will be a dry landing. We have been warned that the path to where the ceremony will be held is very rudimentary. This place is built on a swamp so the paths are raised platforms. I make sure I am as well prepared as I can be, I continue to be anxious about falling. The first part of the cultural event involves a number of canoes in the water with men standing up brandishing spears in a threatening manner. In the base of these dugout canoes are very small boys. We have seen how involved the children are in the cultural performance as we have travelled through this region. It's a great way to keep their culture alive.

We climb the steep steps from the zodiac to the path. It isn't really a path it's a series of boards in a mixed state of repair. Some of them have gaping holes in them, others are clearly rotting. We are above the ground so no room for error. I walk very carefully and we get to a small bridge, only three or four people at a time are allowed on the bridge because it sways as you walk on it. I get to the top and freeze fearing I'm going to fall into the mud and rubbish below. One of the local villagers however, comes to my aid and helps me across. We make our way very carefully and slowly because of the state of the walkway.

The houses are built on stilts and the only way people can get around is via these paths. We reach a point where work is being done to build concrete paths between the houses which will be much safer for everybody. We look across from the walkway to the Long house (Juw house) where the ceremony will be held. It starts with a lot of chanting and a group of men on a raised platform erect two totem poles and two men seem to climb up the totem pole and continue to dance. The crowd below dance to the rhythm drums with no apparent purpose to the dancing, it's very noisy. When this finishes the crowd of dancers surge forward and throw sticks in the air. There is no explanation as to what is going on but later one of the naturalists gives us some idea. When a person dies their death must be avenged but capturing someone from another tribe, the head, hands and genitals are chopped off. The person is tied up to the poles and the body is whipped by the crowd which I think was what was going on with people throwing things in the air. The remains are eaten. Only then can the spirit of the dead move on to the after life. This only happened in this part of the country. Apparently it is now banned but not sure the Indonesian officials would know if it was continuing or not.

With this over we are allowed into the long house, it's hot, humid and dark so I don't stay long. It was difficult to get into. Having short legs made life particularly challenging, I couldn't climb up the log steps so I ended up going up and down on my bum. I finally found Bob and we walked through the town on the concrete walkway. It's much poorer, more run down and rubbish is everywhere. People do have mobile phones, electric motor bikes and electricity. It's hot and humid so am happy to go back to the ship.

We have the opportunity to join the naturalists for a cocktail before dinner but this is a ruse to get us down there where some of the performers from this afternoon have come aboard and they dance for us. We can see their costumes a lot better now. There is a significant thunderstorm after dinner which we can see from deck 6. The clouds had looked threatening during the day but no rain.Lue lisää