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  • Julie Fisher

Ancient cultures Solomon/PNG

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    Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    So hard to see the dragons, this one looks like a rockSmall reef sharkPig , black dot far end of the beachPink beach sand

    Island of dragons

    November 22, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Sadly our last day with excursions. Tomorrow we sail all day today to Bali. A highlight of this trip for me is our visit to Komodo Island to hopefully see the Komodo dragons. We are fortunate the captain tells us, because of the rough sea from Lombok there are very few tourists on the island today apart from ourselves. I am quite pleased that we will disembark at 7:40 a.m. and so will be walking in the cooler part of the day. We walk for about an hour and seen only one other group of young tourists who are on a boat for four days sailing around the area. A cheaper option than ours, apparently they sleep on the deck. There is some tree cover, however, at this time of the year the trees have no leaves. It reminds me of looking for animals in Africa, where animals are easier to see when trees have no leaves, birds and animals are still well camouflaged. We walk for about half an hour before we see much at all. This shouldn't be a surprise given it's a very large island and although there are 5000 + Komodo dragons on the island the paths only cover a small area. Our guide takes a detour off the main path because he has spotted a very young Komodo dragon in the bush. I catch a glimpse of it. It is quite small about a meter in length and moving very quickly, very hard to see because it merges with the color of the trees. Our guide says it is probably about 5 years old. When they hatch there are many predators and so head they up into the trees for protection. Once they get to a reasonable size almost nothing will touch them.

    As we walk further I can hear birds, in particular, I hear cockatoos very similar to ours, but the call is a little different. When I finally see one, I can see that it is smaller than our sulfur crested cockatoo, but it is nonetheless a cockatoo. We also see two colorful birds high up in a tree they are a beautiful yellow. Too far away to take any photographs. We are told these are Orioles. The walk is very pleasant. Still humid but not uncomfortable, the path is well made and for most of the walk we don't see many people. The dragons eat wild boar and buffalo both are feral and red deer introduced from Java. We do see a couple of pigs and a lot of deer. Dragons swallow their prey whole, including deer.

    As we get near to the end there is excitement. Finally, a very large komodo dragon has been sighted. It's still quite cool at this time of day for dragons so they're not inclined to move much which is very convenient for taking photos. Possibly also digesting food. It is huge. There are a large number of dragons on the island but that doesn't guarantee seeing any. Our guide told me that yesterday people didn't see any at all. We see two more before the end of the walk, both were quite a bit smaller and again not moving much. If they have eaten they won't be moving either. Other people were more lucky and saw a couple of smaller dragons moving.

    One of the other passengers said he saw a reef shark off the jetty where we were walking. On the way back I see coral The water is not very deep, there are lots of small fish and a few leaping out of the water suggesting a predator nearby. I stood and watched for a while and saw a very small reef shark, probably about half a meter to a meter in length.

    After lunch we are to go to a beach for a final snorkel. We are told that the beach we are going to is not the most popular 'pink' beach because it is likely to be full of tourists. However, the rough sea also means there are no tourists on the pink beach and this is where we will be going. At the edge of the water the beach is pink, we are told the colour comes from red coral. Each snorkel we have done of the last three each has been better than the last. There is a bit of a current running right to left. I swim out as far over as I can and head to the top of the area we can snorkel in. Visibility is great but the current does pull me a bit. I understand why this area is regarded as the best snorkeling in the world the coral is amazing and very diverse which means you can see large and small fish, coral in an array of shapes and colours, deep maroon soft corals others were various shades of green.I saw a small stingray, brown with purple spots, have never seen that before.

    Some people climb the hill cautiously because there are dragons here. A pig can be seen on one side of the beach taking a dip in the sea totally unperturbed by people. It was an appropriate way to end the last day of this trip.

    No briefing tonight it's the gala final dinner and show. Tomorrow we pack.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler

    Maumere, Flores Island

    November 21, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Bob is up early and takes a picture of the volcano Mt Lewotobi, East Flores which erupted just over 2 weeks ago. There is a heavy haze in the area from the eruption.

    Looking out once we have docked we can see a bustling town which is the capital of Flores Island. There is a beautiful mosque and lots of people, noise, cars and motorbikes. Clearly a major port because just off the beach is a collection of abandoned vessels. This place sees few if any tourists and there. There are a number of people on the dock watching and taking photos of the ship. They've also laid out, or rather taped to the ground, red material for us to walk on, their version of a red carpet I expect.

    Our trip starts early. We have a 1 and 1/2 hour bus ride to a small village in the mountains above the main town of Maureme. The drive takes us through the township which is prosperous and busy. We see lots of school children and commercial activity of a style you see often in Asia. Interestingly, the children wear waistcoats or skirts made of cloth typical of the weaving that is done in this area. The drive up the mountain is very beautiful. There are no towns along the way, just dense tropical forest. The bus has air conditioning but some of the passengers decide it's better to open the windows, a bit annoying because we're in the middle of the bus. I have no windows that can open so it's a bit hot. It's fortunate it's still early in the morning.

    The village we are going to is very small. We are greeted by the chief of the village and behind him are the performers. As with other villages we've been to, they are dressed in traditional costume waving a weapon a large knife and carrying a shield. The villagers' performance involves many dancers, one performance involves a man climbing a pole held up by several other men, when he reaches the top he balances turning around lying on his back and then on his stomach. Another performance was when a prospective son in law comes to the village and presents a drum to the parents by way of bride price. We are given fruit, a cake-like sweet made from coconut I think, an alcoholic drink brewed from something and local cigarettes which some guests smoke. I left the alcohol and cigarettes alone.

    All the performances are accompanied by music and chanting. There are men playing gongs, some play very rough stringed instruments and the women have bells around their feet.

    We have another opportunity to buy woven material. In this area blue is the color and they are famous for this. We can see someone weaving a very complex pattern which is interesting. I do find a piece of blue material. Bob has an interesting style of bargaining or establishing a price, they suggest a price and then he opens his wallet and lets them take the currency they are happy with and amounts to the amount we are paying. I actually have a money changer here which was a bit of a surprise given how isolated and small this place is. Women are cleaning and spinning cotton. I have little doubt that the fabric we have bought has been made in a way similar to this. It's a remote place.

    The ship sails but after a relatively short period of time it stops. The captain has decided that we might like a swim off the back of the ship, the marina. This involves setting up or roping off an area with zodiacs strategically positioned just outside the roped off area. We're told the water temperature is 30°. For me. That's way too hot. I don't want to swim in a bath, Bob however takes the plunge. The captain stands at the marina watching everybody in the water, everybody looked like they were enjoying themselves. I really wasn't tempted.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    2

    Kalabahi

    November 20, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We continue to sail west and the haze from the volcano is very evident. Fortunately for the moment flights are able to leave Bali. Providing the volcano doesn't continue to erupt we should be ok to get home. Today we are going to a village and then a market. I like visiting local markets. You get to see so much of the colour of a place. The ship is able to dock so we have a dry landing, no wet feet. We can see a long line of buses waiting to take us to the village. A number of officials have come on board to have breakfast and give the ship the necessary approval stamp.

    The bus ride is a really interesting one, we leave the town and drive up into the hills nearby. I enjoy seeing the landscape and the people outside of the main towns. When we get there, there is a welcoming party and as in other places they are dressed in traditional costume. The men though are carrying a bow and arrows and a shield on their back which we've not seen before. The men and women dance singing but without any musical accompaniment, rings on the feet of the women create a jangle. When the first dancers finish some left and walked back up the hill. A little while later they return carrying a platform made with two logs and on top is a small boy. We're told when someone builds a new house the neighboring village will provide a log for the house and the chief of the village will be carried on this log to the village. The houses look small, but in fact they are four stories in height but each story is relatively small. Once they have finished the dance that celebrates the building of a new house we are invited to dance with the villagers. I join in but turns out to be harder than it looks and I have a sense that one of the older women join the circle to try and teach me what seems obvious to others.

    This place area is well known for its weaving and this is the first opportunity we've had to view the cloth. Unfortunately for the villagers, I think the ceremony went on longer than they were anticipating and we had very little time to actually think about buying any. I'm sure there'll be other opportunities.

    Back down the hill we hid for the market. Very typical of Asia. It's in a very large building that reminds me of an outdoor gymnasium. Along with fish, fruit and vegetables, didn't see any meat sold, there are also cheap plastic items and clothing that people in the area would need. It's hot and humid inside but not unpleasant.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler

    Banda Neira, spice islands

    November 18, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    The spice Islands have been an important part of Indonesia's history. Spice trading goes back centuries The Dutch arrived aiming to monopolize the spice trade into Europe. They were brutal in their approach, killing the locals who controlled the trade, seizing the land and the spices. Their control did not end until other countries learned to grow the precious spices, particularly cinnamon and nutmeg.

    I concluded yesterday that I have a chest infection and so I started antibiotics hoping to get it under control quickly. I had every intention of getting up early to watch the ship sail into the harbour, it became obvious that I really can't. I make the decision not to go ashore for the ceremony to see if I can at least make the snorkel in the afternoon. As the ship arrived and part of the welcome, a couple of canoes greet us which begins the ceremony. I did see them. Bob of course goes ashore and comes back his shirt soaked in perspiration, it was very hot and humid but he enjoyed the morning. He described how apparently our captain boarded a zodiac to get to the ceremony but was sent back because he was supposed to arrive on the royal canoe. Bob recorded a video which was very impressive with male dancers performing a war-like dance with spears and shields and dressed in elaborate costumes. I'm glad I didn't go because after the ceremony he went on the guided three hour walk through the town in searing heat. I would not have made it. He said that it was different to last year when he was here, they seem to be building more of a tourist trade.

    I spent some time on the balcony watching birds, I could see a number of frigate birds circling over the mountain/ dormant volcano at the back of the town. In the afternoon I heard cockatoos and could just see them with my binoculars as they were flying screeching as they went. It isn't the only place we've heard or seen sulfur crested cockatoos. It seems a bit strange, but many of the birds here, including the lorikeets are native to this area. I also see what we now know as a 'bait ball.' When a predator is under the water the fish jump out to try and avoid being eaten. This creates a silver glint on the water and you can see by the movement of the fish where the predator is heading although you never get to see the predator. Any birds in the area will arrive to catch the fish as they leap from the water. One fish which was very large I saw from the balcony, quite a long way off, jumped out of the water and landed some meters away, quite a spectacular sight. No point trying to photograph any of this, just better to watch through the binoculars and enjoy nature at work.

    I am feeling better and confident that I'll be able to snorkel which is good news. The snorkel will involve jumping from a zodiac into the water just off the coast we will then swim to another zodiac which has a ladder enabling us to get back on board. We were advised we need to be experienced snorkelers, in fact it wasn't particularly difficult. I think the main issue was that not far from the shore it becomes very deep. There is no beach here because the volcano erupted some time ago and the lava flow ended at the water where we are swimming. It is an excellent spot to snorkel and probably the best we have ever done. The day is fine and the water is clear. The corals were unusual and very colorful. This part of the reef is clearly very healthy and because it is so deep we see things we wouldn't normally see. Some of the coral is a vivid green, some are shaped like mega herbs like cabbages, there are many soft and hard corals. This of course means a wide variety of fish, I see long bright orange, flat fish looks a little like a garfish, a groper and sea cucumbers. There is a bit of a current dragging me further out from shore so I have to keep looking up and making sure I'm still heading towards the zodiac. I need to catch to get back. At one point I looked up and discovered there were almost no people still in the water, I can't see Bob. One of the naturalists on a small rescue inflatable comes up and tells me Bob is already in a zodiac and would I like him to help me get back, I think I can do it by myself but I accept the offer. He must be very strong because he tows me hanging on to the inflatable back to the zodiac. It was a gloriously wonderful snorkel.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    A zodiac under the rocky overhang

    Kitikiti waterfall West Papua

    November 17, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    From the balcony we can see the waterfall the reason we are here. We have an early start, the day begins with a zodiac trip around the various rocky outcrops that typify this area. From a distance these look very small but a zodiac can go under the overhang which has been created by erosion over millennia. Again, we see the lush vegetation despite growing in almost no soil on these rocky outcrops. From the zodiac we can see the formation of the rocks plants and of course birds. Our zodiac driver is excited when we see two Kingfishers mating while they fly. Quite an amazing feat. We also see swifts and herons.

    The last stop is the waterfall where we can swim. Not much point bringing the snorkeling gear as there are no coral reefs here. But I do take my swimming goggles. There is a beach in front of the waterfall and because it's low tide we can walk right up to the falls. I stay in the water mostly because the fresh water that is pouring from the waterfall into the seawater makes the water quite cold. I'm moving around to try and find warm water and don't fancy getting out of the water and being cold next to the waterfall. Bob does go up to the falls. It's quite a spectacular sight. Only a small group of people at a time are taken to the waterfall, which means we can take pictures easily without people getting in the way.

    Our next stop is Banda Neira, the famous spice Islands. The ship will sail after lunch and then overnight to get there. The plan is to get up at dawn and watch the ship sail into the harbour.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    1

    Beautiful Triton Bay

    November 16, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    When we look out the window in the morning we can see a number of small tropical Islands. This is a remote place and very beautiful. Fortunately the day is clear and sunny, we are again blessed by the weather gods. Two adventures await us today. Our first is a snorkel on one of the remote beaches in this tiny bay. We can see numerous beaches from the ship, but the naturalists will scout for the best beach, I think the best beach with the fewest jellyfish. This time we do take our fins just to make sure that if we have to swim a long way we can get back easily. The naturalists have set up an umbrella area with water. We are warned that there will be some jellyfish, they are quite easy to see from the beach. It's funny watching people and the jellyfish. A number of people are standing in the water trying to shoo / move the jellyfish away because they don't like them, but there are hundreds of them and that's not something the jellyfish are likely to take any notice of.

    The best place to snorkel is out near one of the small rocky outcrops which is where I head. The swimming is easy, the water is very calm and warm. There are a lot of jellyfish and as I'm swimming they're bumping into me and I'm not sure if it's another snorkeler who has nudged me or a jellyfish. A couple of people are stung but I'm wearing long sleeves and pants so, there's no risk for me. The snorkeling is good, I see a lot of unusual coral and many very tiny fish. As I move over one of the coral outcrops, it appears quite brown and then much to my surprise it moves and what I'm looking at is a school of tiny brown fish amongst the coral. We have had a lecture on the sounds under the water, I listen really carefully. I have often heard this strange crackling sound as I'm snorkeling and thought it was just something in my ears or the water, but that is the sound of tiny shrimp munching on the coral. Today I also hear a tapping sound and that is very likely to be damsel fish tapping to scare a predator or me away. I try to breathe really slowly and listen hard. It's great when something that you have been told about like this you actually get to experience. Although the snorkeling is really good and I'm enjoying seeing the fish and the coral. There are too many people in this spot and I feel my legs starting to cramp so I go back to the beach.

    In the afternoon we have a 2-hour zodiac ride around the different rocky outcrops. Although it is quite hot, even in a zodiac that's moving, it's still pleasant because there's a breeze. A guide points out a number of features as we are quietly moving through the water. There is a handprint made with a red mineral of some kind believed to date back thousands of years. It's on the side of a rocky outcrop over the water, the water must have been much higher then. We see numerous birds including a number of Blyth's hornbill, lorikeets, herons, cormorants and can hear sulphur-crested cockatoos. There are jellyfish all around us and someone sees a squid in the water, I missed it I'm too busy looking at a hornbill. The vegetation is also really interesting, there are a lot of pitcher plants with quite large flowers, also giant cycads, trees that have a symbiotic relationship with ants who nest in the tree, very tall palms and a few orchids. There is one plant with a white flower that is square. It's amazing to think that plants can grow in this environment, it looks so lush and yet yet they are growing primarily on rock . Pictures just can't really capture the full beauty of this place

    Part way through our water journey it starts to rain. No one is bothered given we're all quite hot. The rain offers some relief from the heat. It passes quickly and we are dry in no time. As we are heading back, we see a stationary zodiac in the water, which seems a bit strange until we see the bar manager and a couple of staff in the zodiac. It turns out they are there is to offer us champagne in proper glasses, not even plastic ones, in this stunning location. It is quite magnificent, isolated and we see no other people except those on other zodiacs. There are no houses and only a few small boats. It appears as a pristine wilderness, no rubbish anywhere. Quite a contrast to Agat.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler

    A remote, isolated part of Indonesia

    November 14, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C

    We have sailed through the Torres Strait and arrive at the mouth of an estuary. The water changes from the blue of the sea to a brackish brown water in the estuary. Our sailing has been slow up the estuary which gives us an opportunity to see the vegetation and the activity on the water of the people of Agats in the Asmat region. It is a strange place compared with where we have been. We can see a lot of boats around us but these are motorboats not rowing or sail boats as we have seen before. There are people in this area who have had no contact with the outside world. It is very tribal. It is also very clear that these people in this part of the island of New Guinea are not ethnically related to the Indonesians, the Dutch occupied West Papua when they left handed it to the Indonesians.

    We have to wait here for a little while I suspect until the Indonesian immigration officials come aboard and clear us to land. This doesn't happen until after lunch. I find it pleasant just sitting on the balcony and watching what is happening outside. This is the first time we have seen more than a few birds. There are a group of terns, although I don't initially see them, I can hear them. They are quite close to the edge of the water and difficult to see. There are also very large butterflies, impossible to photograph but I do try. I'm pleased that I have the binoculars because I can see what's going on a lot better.

    Today will be a dry landing. We have been warned that the path to where the ceremony will be held is very rudimentary. This place is built on a swamp so the paths are raised platforms. I make sure I am as well prepared as I can be, I continue to be anxious about falling. The first part of the cultural event involves a number of canoes in the water with men standing up brandishing spears in a threatening manner. In the base of these dugout canoes are very small boys. We have seen how involved the children are in the cultural performance as we have travelled through this region. It's a great way to keep their culture alive.

    We climb the steep steps from the zodiac to the path. It isn't really a path it's a series of boards in a mixed state of repair. Some of them have gaping holes in them, others are clearly rotting. We are above the ground so no room for error. I walk very carefully and we get to a small bridge, only three or four people at a time are allowed on the bridge because it sways as you walk on it. I get to the top and freeze fearing I'm going to fall into the mud and rubbish below. One of the local villagers however, comes to my aid and helps me across. We make our way very carefully and slowly because of the state of the walkway.

    The houses are built on stilts and the only way people can get around is via these paths. We reach a point where work is being done to build concrete paths between the houses which will be much safer for everybody. We look across from the walkway to the Long house (Juw house) where the ceremony will be held. It starts with a lot of chanting and a group of men on a raised platform erect two totem poles and two men seem to climb up the totem pole and continue to dance. The crowd below dance to the rhythm drums with no apparent purpose to the dancing, it's very noisy. When this finishes the crowd of dancers surge forward and throw sticks in the air. There is no explanation as to what is going on but later one of the naturalists gives us some idea. When a person dies their death must be avenged but capturing someone from another tribe, the head, hands and genitals are chopped off. The person is tied up to the poles and the body is whipped by the crowd which I think was what was going on with people throwing things in the air. The remains are eaten. Only then can the spirit of the dead move on to the after life. This only happened in this part of the country. Apparently it is now banned but not sure the Indonesian officials would know if it was continuing or not.

    With this over we are allowed into the long house, it's hot, humid and dark so I don't stay long. It was difficult to get into. Having short legs made life particularly challenging, I couldn't climb up the log steps so I ended up going up and down on my bum. I finally found Bob and we walked through the town on the concrete walkway. It's much poorer, more run down and rubbish is everywhere. People do have mobile phones, electric motor bikes and electricity. It's hot and humid so am happy to go back to the ship.

    We have the opportunity to join the naturalists for a cocktail before dinner but this is a ruse to get us down there where some of the performers from this afternoon have come aboard and they dance for us. We can see their costumes a lot better now. There is a significant thunderstorm after dinner which we can see from deck 6. The clouds had looked threatening during the day but no rain.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    Islands in the Torres Strait

    Another Sea Day

    November 13, 2024, Torres Strait ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We are now in the Torres Strait and can see a number of islands, very small, in this part of Australia. I had heard of Thursday Island which is the largest, I have not heard of Wednesday and Friday Islands. The first Europeans were not very creative when it came to naming islands. We know from one of the passengers on board that Thursday island has a hospital and I suspect is a regional center for most of the surrounding islands. It is as well there is a hospital there because there was a medical emergency on board. The ship had stopped for quite a period of time and we found out during the cocktail party the captain hosts however he is an apology because he is dealing with the medical emergency. The captain hosts one of these events each trip, makes those of us who have traveled for passengers who have travelled often with Ponant feel 'special'. During dinner the pilot boat draws up aside the ship no doubt to pick up the passenger and their partner and take them ashore to Thursday Island. I doubt they would want to be sailing into Indonesian waters and then have to find somewhere to drop off an ill passenger. The ship moves very quickly after this to make up the time that has been lost, we won't be missing out on anything.

     We do see a few birds later in the afternoon indicating there must be land nearby. We can identify a frigate bird and another large bird, but I'm not sure what it is.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    Bob working out the path back

    To the very top

    November 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Cape York is our destination. A very Ponant experience, not sure how they do it given it involves finding these places, working out how to get here and then making sure we can walk on the path to the end. We are now a very long way north and the furthest point of mainland Australia. We have sailed for more than 24 hours to get here. Unless you have a four wheel drive car the only other way is by sea. Again, we have been blessed by the weather , it is sunny, clear and the sea is calm. We have been warned that the path is rocky and uneven but there is a path. I make sure that I wear my leg protection and I take a walking pole. Both give me confidence that I can do this without any risk of injury.

    It's a wet landing, deeper water than usual I don't mind even though I'm wearing my trainers. I wear my new cargo pants I bought a few days ago that I have had to take up, it's a very rough job but it will have to do. We disembark from the zodiac into water that is up to my knees. There are no waves, it's very easy. We walk a short way across the beach to the path. I can see other passengers high up on the ridge, this is a surprise I didn't expect it to be quite as high as it is. Walking isn't a problem, everybody helps out along with the crew from the ship. Short legs always make these walks a little difficult because I can't step up very high and challenging coming down. It's a very pleasant walk with a breeze. From the top we can see a long way out to a number of islands in the Torres strait. We are so lucky to have such a clear day and to be able to see this landscape and this view. I don't manage to make it all the way to the very end. The path looks a little challenging even with a walking pole so I sit at the highest point and just take in the view. I'm pleased I've been able to do it and very glad I brought the walking pole it gave me a little more stability. Bob goes to the end. I'll be able to see his photos when we get home.

    At the bottom before the beach there is a very small carpark and three portaloos, which seemed a rather odd thing to put there. This is our only excursion for the day and we are back on board by 11:00. a.m.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    Pandanas palms

    Lizard Island - somewhere different

    November 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    I have never heard of Lizard Island but here we are off the far North Coast of Queensland, 150 km north of Cairns and within the barrier reef. This place is only accessible by light aircraft or by ship /boat. There's a luxury resort on the island but at over $3,000 a night it's not somewhere we are ever likely to stay. It is a beautiful place, sandy white beaches, clear blue sea and tropical vegetation.

    It's a wet landing of course, and we have the option of a guided walk to the other side of the island to somewhere called Blue lagoon, passed an airstrip. We have a few hours here so we decide we might as well walk. The path winds through shade with pandanas palms in the center of the island indicating fresh water, they are very large. It's an easy walk but it is hot. We get to the airstrip and begin walking along the side of it, it seems like it's endless and it's hot. There is no shade here and the path is tough walking. About 2/3 of the way along and a good hour into the walk I decide I have had enough. I think I can live without seeing the Blue lagoon. The walk back is much easier. I can hear birds but they are impossible to see. There are many different varieties well hidden in the reasonably dense vegetation although the island is not particularly fertile, it's a small place in the middle of the ocean with a coral reef on one side. I forgot my binoculars and have resolved to buy some from the boutique onboard, very expensive but very good quality.

    We thought the snorkeling would be reasonably close to the shore and we have worn our reef shoes but not carried fins. This was a mistake, the reef is quite a way offshore which means we need to swim there, there is a bit of a current but it's not too bad. After the warm waters we had been swimming in over the last two weeks it was very pleasant to slip into the cool water here. The swim to the reef was well worth the effort, we saw giant clam shells and very large fish, varieties we haven't seen before. Different corals, different shapes, colors and sizes I could see quite a way down which meant less chance of a coral cut. A brilliant snorkel, I just regret not bringing the fins it was such an effort to get to the reef. This area has suffered tremendously from coral bleaching and where we snorkelled is probably the main part of the reef that is left and it isn't a very big area. The swim back to shore was very strenuous because of the current, I found myself going sideways rather than straight ahead. I would so like to have spent more time out there.

    Another gala dinner which means we will meet new people. There are more English than French speaking passengers on this trip, quite a few are German. There is also a small party of Taiwanese which is nice given one of the naturalists is from Taiwan    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler

    A day in Cairns

    November 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    For almost all passengers except us and nine others, this is the end of their trip. They had to disembark by 9am as did we but without luggage. We were still required to go through customs and immigration but that was quick. A bit weird arriving and leaving our country on the same day. We caught up with a friend for breakfast in the center of town. We had a shopping list of minor items such as more sunblock and bandaids. Bob managed to lose his sunglasses or rather left them in the bar on board, never to be seen again. Unlike my sunnies, Bob paid a lot for his. He found another, again expensive pair so he was sorted.

    The weather was sunny with a lovely breeze making the walk back to the ship very pleasant. I managed over 10,000 steps which given how little exercise we had had to date was good. We can have lunch then go to our cabin, relax and waiting for the next group of passengers to board. We don't have to do the safety drill, another bonus.

    The ship sails from Cairns in sunshine heading for Lizard Island.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler

    Alotau last stop in PNG

    November 7, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Alotau is the provincial capital of Milne Bay. It was the scene of a major battle between Australian , Papua New Guinean and American troops against the Japanese. When we get off the ship we are greeted by music and dancers with spears, they look a little out of context standing on the dock.

    Two of the stops involve a museum with not very much and a memorial to the battle. A short morning of touring and no snorkeling. We start with a memorial of the Milne Bay battle and then on to the last performance we will have in this part of the island of New Guinea.

    The bus ride takes us well out of the Town center and down a dirt track towards the sea. It's a little hard to quite know what it is we are supposed to be doing. We can see men with canoes and a welcoming group opposite the water, it's a little chaotic, a matter of going with the flow. It starts with a traditional welcome with spears, dancers and general battle cries. This is not the main performance, just the warm-up act. Two large war canoes arrive filled with men. We are told this is a traditional canoe the men would go off to battle in this type of craft. They are very narrow so I don't think the purpose of the battle is to return with any booty just kill and destroy I suspect. No women participate in these performances which is the first time that has been the case. It's all very dramatic and I think the purpose of this performance is how tribes around the sea would have raided other villages. A small boy with his spear stands beside the men dancing and copying their actions. It is good to see these traditions being carried on and embraced even by small children.

    There is a small market with a few handicrafts, mostly wood carvings. We have 200 kina left and decide on another small bowl, we have no intention of taking any local currency home with us.

    Back to the ship, we stop at another memorial park arriving back in time for lunch, we will sail a day and a half to Cairns.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    1School toilet block1Cus cusExamples of Kula currencyEven small children have a role to play

    Another island paradise Dobu island

    November 6, 2024, Solomon Sea ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We seem to have fallen into a daily pattern of being taken off the ship for an opportunity to explore a local village with a performance. This is then followed by an opportunity to swim and or snorkel. This makes perfect sense. We arrive on an island at a cooler time of the day usually around 9:00 then as the day warms up we swim. This is what our trip to Dobu island is one of five islands in the D'Entrecasteaux archipelago close to the southernmost tip offshore from PNG mainland.

    This this was one of my favorite places so far that we have visited. Landing on the beach we were greeted by a host of school children who clearly had been given the day off. The ceremony was held on school grounds so that probably made sense. We assemble in shade with seating. The island is very small and the sea is to the back of us. The ground is surrounded by school buildings, the area is fenced off with locals watching on from behind the rope. The children and some of the women laugh during the performance as they know the people dancing.

    The greeting from the local chief is interesting. They are particularly welcoming and he stresses just how safe their small island is. I can't help but suspect that this is because where we were supposed to go has been canceled and we will be spending the whole day here. The cancellation was because on an earlier visit some guests was harassed by locals and phones/money were stolen. He is telling us this won't happen on his Island. It does feel very relaxed, safe and tranquil.

    The dancers come out, we have seen before men and the women have a decoration attached to something which they hold in their mouth. For women that will be a shell and for men the tusk of a wild boar. The drums played are very large and look like they have been decorated on the top. It's another enjoyable performance. After this we have an opportunity to walk around, women are weaving baskets from the leaves of the sago palm. Nothing is wasted with a sago palm. The trunk is used to build the house, the bark and smaller trunks form. The floors come up. Up the leaves are used for walls and for thatching on the top. The bark is also stripped off to make baskets. There is an impressive display of Kula shells, they are not selling anything in this village just displayed them for us.

    A young woman accompanies me as I walk along the path through the village. She tells me that her daily routine is to eat and then work in the garden. I get the impression that during the rainy season gardening involves preparing and planting crops. She points out the betal nut trees and the sago palms. She is eating a nut of some kind , it's betel nut. The nut is eaten with two other ingredients, a long pod which I'm told is mustard dipped into a small container of what she tells me is lime then eaten. Turns out this is crushed coral, I have no idea how either ingredient might enhance the taste of betel nut. The effect is a high. Children begin eating the nut at quite a young age resulting in very bad teeth and in PNG there are rising rates of cancer from this. Everyone seems to be addicted judging by the red smiles.

    On our walk we passed a young man with what looks like an orange possum on his head. It's a little bit larger than our ringtail possum but definitely of the possum variety. It's called a cus cus. They allow me to take photos, two other girls have joined him, the third is my guideOne of the girls asks me if I can send her the picture (which I do), she is one of the few people who have a phone. There is a medical center on the island staffed by nurses who also have mobile phones. So there is a mobile connection on the island. I am told that a few of the children have mobile phones. There's no electricitythey are charged through solar panels.

    In the afternoon we get to snorkel off a zodiac. This is the first time I have tried this, I am a little hesitant firstly getting into the water and then getting out again back into the zodiac. Zodiac. Neither presents any challenge. The zodiac does not go very far offshore but to an area that is much deeper than the beach where there is very little to see. We have just under an hour to again be amazed by what we see below. These reefs are in good condition but the water is a little murky but well worth the effort. I try not to think of the impending election of a crazy, convicted felon to the US presidency. A rough four years ahead.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    The head person who welcomed us.
    Elaborate costumesTapa cloth

    Tufi - conch shells to drums

    November 5, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Despite this being the rainy season, we have not encountered any rain except for one night where there was an impressive thunderstorm after dinner. Today is again warm and clear. An early start which begins with a cultural event called a sing-sing. All the performances we have seen so far have all been different, the costumes are different as are the dances performed and so the music and singing. On this island we are greeted by a man in a very impressive costume with large feathers. We walk to the place where the performance will take place and there are two very fierce looking men brandishing spears, probably made from bamboo, threatening us, very convincing. We are not given a lot of information about the songs that will be sung or the dances that will be performed except that these are written by the local people and some have been handed down from generation to generation.

    The performances involve both men and women dancing together which is a little different from the other places where we've seen the men dance then the women. The men have drums which are hollowed out wood of some kind and over one end a piece of lizard skin is attached. The drums are quite long and have a distinctive sound to them. As with many of the performers we have seen before, the women are bare-breasted but have elaborate necklaces and decorations both in the front and on their backs. I can't help but think this must be uncomfortable with the movement up and down with the shell necklaces bouncing on their skin as they dance. The headwear is very decorative consisting of feathers and shells. As with the other other places, we have visited community members and children in particular come down to watch. There doesn't seem to be very much to this island, there are no mobile phones and no network. Any power they have comes from the sun.

     These islands do not produce much more than fruit and vegetables, wood, carvings and the local Tapa woven fabric for the tourists. We have been told that this is a traditional craft, both men and women wear pieces of Tapa which we see during the dancing. It's quite a process to make. It is made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree which is stripped off, the cloth is created and then painted. The designs are unique to the woman making it. When the dancing is finished there is a small market and we buy a small piece of Tapa and a fairy large, elaborate shell necklace. (We will try and create something like a wall hanging with it). When we get back to the ship there are a number of small canoes with people selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Some of these will be bought by the kitchen and no doubt form part of our meal tonight.

    The second part of the morning involves exploring the lush tropical rain forest all around us from an outrigger canoe. We slide from our zodiac onto a platform across the canoe. There are four people on ours with a man each end slowly paddling us up a narrow estuary. So tranquil and cool, we travel slowly allowing us to really take it all in, we can hear a few birds but they are impossible to see. The ride is for about half an hour.

    It's Melbourne cup and for those who are interested someone is running a sweep and it will be broadcast in the main lounge, this race that stops the nation is not of interest to us.
    ,    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    Black noddies

    Tiny Island one of the Lusancay Islands

    November 4, 2024, Solomon Sea ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    There is a group of tiny Coral atolls near Milne Bay province just off the coast of PNG in the Solomon Sea. The islands are in pristine condition and because they are so small no one lives there. The island we go to is no more than 100 m long and maybe 10 m across. At one end there is a beach with the opportunity to snorkel and swim and the other end are trees where we can see and hear the birds. Birds circle the island. This is the first place we have really seen birds. This is where we spend the morning.

    The first challenge is deciding in what order we want to explore this tiny Island. We have the opportunity of taking a walk with the birder and going to the end of the island where the birds are roosting. We also have the opportunity to swim and snorkel. It is of course hot and tropical. If we swim first we will be cool and wet for our walk which is what we decide to do. The snorkeling is quite good and the area is quite extensive, I don't feel hemmed in or forced to avoid other intrepid snorkelers. I don't see many fish I haven't seen before, the coral looks ok. We walk to the end of the island with the naturalist and he talks about the different birds in the region and the symbiotic relationship between the birds and this tiny strip of vegetation. Essentially, the bird droppings fertilize the soil encouraging the plants to grow and the birds take advantage of this as trees give them a place to rest.. Most of the birds we see are black noddies, some brown and terns.

    There is an option after lunch to go to another island without a beach and to snorkel entering the water from a zodiac. I have come back to the ship and showered and changed for lunch and my snorkeling gear/clothes are now wet which means it will be very difficult to put on so I elect not to go. I am also concerned about getting in and out of a zodiac for snorkeling. Probably a mistake. Bob does go and said the snorkeling was really good. It was very deep where they were with very deep trenches. I'm sure there will be other opportunities.

    We are not much for after dinner entertainment we find what we do during the day is enough. There will be something on but we head to the top deck as usual. It's quiet maybe people just haven't found it yet which suits us.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    1
    Decoration on the back of a woman, made of mother of pearlDance that looked like they were on a boatTug of warCaptain presented with a giftOne of our guidesYam houseNot sure why Bob bought the pig

    Our first PNG island, Kiriwina

    November 3, 2024 in Papua New Guinea ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    A very busy day begins with 9:00 zodiac the island. This is the largest island of the Trobiand Islands. I'm grateful for the earlyish start it will be a hot and humid day. Again, we have a wet landing which does mean the bottom of my pants get wet as will my shoes but they dry quickly enough during the morning. We are greeted on arrival by a number of young girls in traditional dress and decoration. They're quite beautiful. It is so nice to finally find myself here. The vegetation is green and lush which is not surprising as I expect the rainfall would be high. We're taken to the place where we will be sitting to watch the performance, shade has been provided by way of a series of polls and plastic sheeting over the top, very grateful for this. We are advised that we must not take photos before the performance starts and we shouldn't go over and look at any of the goods that are for sale. This island is renowned for its carving, they use teak and ebony, both really hard woods so a lot of work goes into each piece that has been carved.

     We hear the performers warming up. The women and girls come out first all dressed spectacularly with beautiful head gear made of feathers. Some of the decorations they are wearing we were told about yesterday and it's nice to see them worn. The most striking piece is a carved shell which is worn on the back. It's quite large and in the shape of a bird. They dance and sing for quite a long time, in the middle of the circle are a group of older women who provide accompanying music and sing. A most amazing performance hard to adequately describe and put words to.

    The men and boys are up next and again a really interesting performance also in elaborate costumes. Music accompanies the dancing and two performers have a conch shell which is being used for effect. The group of singers and dancers include very small boys probably not much more than 3 or 4 years old who look fascinated by the event and are trying to keep up with the people ahead of them. The dance and the following one are something to do with crickets, the insect kind not the game. At the end one of the performers lies on the ground as if they are a cricket waving their legs in the air with someone pretending to squash him. The last performance and we were not given much information about it, was a group of probably 20 men with poles with a pole on either side crouching and taking very small steps. There were four men at each of the corners and it looked like they were simulating a boat but it was hard to know. So athletic and strong to be able to do this for the time they did. Finally, it is our turn, a tug of war is arranged. A long rope is spread out on the ground local boys (yes boys not men) versus men from the ship, then local girls versus women from the ship. Seems totally unfair given we weigh so much more and we win. Bob and I both participate. It was fun.

    The last part of the ceremony involved our captain being presented with a gift and then each of the key members of the expedition team. A gift was then handed to the chief of the tribe in return. We are invited to have some fruit which included. Very sweet pineapple, mango and papaya. We're also given a fresh coconut. The juice was most welcome. A walk takes us along what is probably the only road on the island and we can see collections of huts on either side. Our local guide points out where his family live, a small collection of huts where his sister and parents also have a heart. It is a good opportunity to walk through the village and get an insight into how people live. We are taken to a yam house this is where yams are stored these are important structures albeit small they are decorated and act like a bank. The very best yams are stored here. Only the wealthiest of the village have a yam house. The day is getting warmer and the sun is starting to reach its highest point, some of the walk is through shaded areas. It's good when clouds come over, it isn't a hard walk just a hot one. A small boy who participated in the dancing is walking beside me. He has very good English and I chatted with him along the way and he agrees to let me take his photo.

    We will have time on the way back to look at and buy from the myriad of people who have brought their work to sell. We have exchanged currency on the ship albeit at a very poor exchange rate, we have Kina with us but decide another $100 worth is a good idea. It is good to be able to buy a few things and give back to the community. Everything is so beautiful and the prices are ridiculously low given just how much work is involved in what they do. We buy a small bowl carved with a low stand made of teak decorated and inlaid with mother of pearl around the edge, that costs $30, I also bought two pieces that can be worn as a necklace. One of them is particularly lovely of a seahorse. Both are made of Ebony and inlaid with mother of pearl. The cost $10 each and Bob buys
    a small ebony carving of a pig.

    Back to the ship, a quick shower, lunch and get ready for another snorkel. This is on the same island, the snorkeling is very good. There are significant deep trenches further out from the beach which although you can't actually see very much because it's too deep it's good to have the experience. We snorkel for about an hour. It was quite hard work because there was a bit of a current and we were instructed to keep within a certain area. Walking on the sand was hard work and in the afternoon the weather was quite hot when we got out of the water. We did not spend any time on the beach once we finished snorkeling we came back to the ship. I'm quite sore because of the unanticipated extra leg workout.

    We have dinner tonight with one of the naturalists, he is Irish but lives in Christchurch. His passion is for birds and he talks about how often the call and the way they fly is often the key to identifying what the bird is. I've started to think about that as I watch the birds. It was a very interesting dinner.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler

    On our way to PNG

    November 2, 2024, Solomon Sea ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Today we are at sea which gives us time to reflect on what we have done, relax a little bit and hopefully get some of our gear dry. Fortunately we have a balcony. Most of the wet shoes and swimming gear etc can be dried on the balcony, it is certainly warm enough and there is a breeze when the ship is moving. I have been extra cautious this trip and packed two different ways to protect my legs. One for general off ship activities that involve walking and the other for snorkeling. I also have long pants for swimming and long sleeved bathers meaning a lot of clothing to dry. Then there are the shoes. I have reef shoes as well as runners that could be used for wet landings if I need to. But again both have to be dried.

    I was reflecting on the fact that finally tomorrow I will get to see some of PNG. This is a place I have wanted to visit for a very long time. In fact, since my final year of University when I studied a subject that covered some of the culture and history of the country up until Independence. I have no idea what to expect. For most of us, what we hear about is just how dreadful things are in Port Moresby, a violent place and somewhere most people have no desire to visit. We won't be going there. Given how far away this place is from just about anywhere apart from Australia and New Zealand, I've been asking people why they have decided to travel to the other side of the world to two different third world countries. More than half the passengers are from Europe and unsurprisingly most of them are French with eight German speakers. Some people are here for the diving, most have said it's for the adventure. One woman from Iceland said she just always wanted to come here.nThis is interesting because the age demographic is on the older side like ourselves (but not old).

    As so often happens in the Pacific Islands w when we are greeted we are presented with garlands. I particularly liked the one made from the leaves of a tropical plant. I know it is one that grows in Queensland. It has lasted longer than the frangipane flowers.

    There are a number of interesting presentations today, you can never be allowed to be bored on board the ship. One of the presentations covers the cultural aspect of the exchange of goods. Exchange can happen as a trade. For another, for building relationships, for hard currency or payment of a bride price. The items that are made and traded include pottery, shell necklaces and intricate carvings as well as some very precious woven work.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    3Local transportation1

    Fish, coral swimming and Gizo

    November 1, 2024 on the Solomon Islands ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We were greeted with the sight rof dolphins around the ship. There is a group of about 50 spinning dolphins that live quite close to a nearby Island. They are smaller than other dolphins and are called spinning because they spend a lot of time jumping out of the water and spinning this makes them much easier to spot. We are taken to a private island owned by an American. He has bought it for reasons of conservation. It is in beautiful condition and to keep it this way there is a ranger on the island. It isn't very big but gives us a really good idea of what pristine vegetation might be like in the Solomons. There is plenty of time to walk around the island and then snorkel. I can hear birds and wish that our birding naturalist was nearby so I could ask him what they were, he seems very knowledgeable of birds in the area despite being Irish. I did see a bird on the path and managed to take a picture. It isn't great but I'm hoping he can identify it. I also saw mud nest quite low to the ground.m

    The snorkeling here is much better than yesterday, I don't feel hemmed in by a large decaying ship and the space is large enough for everyone to swim and snorkel without bumping into each other. We're told that the coral is in really good condition, although near to the shore there is evidence of bleaching but I'm told that was because it's very close to the surface. Further out where I was snorkeling the coral looked good which meant we could see many different kinds of fish. Of course with any coral reef, the fish are often very brightly coloured and that was the case here. It wasn't as hot as I imagined it would be which was probably because we were on a small island, but it did make the walk particularly nice. On our way back and zodiac driver took us close to where the dolphins were and we could see them leaping out of the water, unfortunately almost impossible to photograph.

    The second part of the day was spent on the island of Ghizo and the town of Gizo. This is the next biggest town after Honiara in the Solomon Islands. They have very good carvers (stone and wood) so it's suggested we take some local currency with us. I suspect it's a big deal to have our ship just offshore. I doubt they would see many tourists or have many opportunities to sell their work. One group told us they actually had travelled from another Island when they heard the ship would be here.

    At first impressions the town looks very much like those you see in South Africa, it is after all a third world country and so the buildings are fairly roughly constructed, the road is not very well made and there's only one road really where the shops are and what is available to buy is limited mostly to what the locals need. There is evidence of people chewing betal nut with the telltale sign of red spit on the pavement. The people are very friendly and most will say hello as they pass by. It's a very busy town, albeit small with people coming and going to the local market or just out and about. We walk most of the length of the shopping strip. The market is really interesting, inside the entrance is where the men sell fish, many of the fish look like those we swam with this morning. Each stall holder has only a few fish to sell. Baskets made of palm leaves are available for people to carry their produce home. I love seeing the fruit and vegetable section of markets. It's always so colourful and that is the case here. Some of the produce for sale was unfamiliar but most was what is available at home. Again the stalls are small and the sellers women. It seems like the men sell the fish and the women sell the fruit and vegetables. Some of this will be on our plates tonight for dinner.

    The island is very conscious of minimizing plastic and other waste which means the street is reasonably clean. My overall impression is that despite the fact that it's a poor place, it is well organized and clean and probably safe. This is hard to tell because we have our guardian angels (Ponant crew) with us wherever we go but at no point did I feel unsafe. They keep their distance but are watching.

    A big day so an early night.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    11

    A tropical island and a ship wreck

    October 31, 2024 on the Solomon Islands ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Another early start we have to be on zodiacs by 8:00 a.m. and Bob's birthday which because it's Halloween means a Halloween party tonight. Many staff wish him a happy birthday, they know because after all they have our passports.

    At the briefing we were told that the island we are visiting today has the wreck of a passenger ship. It ran around and the company was not able to initially get permission to remove it, as time went on, coral grew and it became a tourist attraction so the company was never able to recover their ship and now it is rusting in the sea. We can swim and snorkel here, listen to more music with dancing and take a walk to a village on the other side of the island. The swimming sounds really good given it's hot and humid. I'm not so enthusiastic about the walk. There is a market of locally made things for us to buy. We need local currency which we were warned about when we arrived.

    Ponant supports local communities on islands we visit and we are told not to give to anyone on the island. But of course we can buy locally made goods. The major reason for not buying anything else or giving things to children is because it's a hierarchical society and if you give to one person you will upset someone else.

    When we land on the beach we are greeted by a group of men wearing traditional costume, they tell us this is their Island (Florida Island) and we should not be here, it's a welcome ceremony and we are asked if we are a friend or an enemy, we say friends and they welcome us. The chief of the village greets us and introduces the dancers and the musicians. The dress here is quite different, in this part of the world, dolphin and dog teeth are used in the decoration women wear. The music is very melodic with musicians playing very large pan pipes. It doesn't last very long and then we are allowed to either go with guides to the other side of the island or swim and snorkel. I decide I might as well walk at least part of the way, it is a lovely tranquil place very green and lush. I end up walking to the other side and back. I was quite slow and careful because although there was a path it was narrow and often there were tree roots and water across the path. A local guide stayed with me and helped when I needed it.

    It turns out that this was a good decision to walk first as the snorkeling was challenging. The shipwreck was very close to shore and we had to swim between it and the shore and try not to bump into people or zodiacs all around. The snorkeling was not all that wonderful it turns out. The swim however was very pleasant after a humid walk. In the water I watched small boys climb a tree hanging over the water no doubt amused by us in the water.

    Back on board Bob finds a small birthday cake, he manages to eat all of it which I suspect he regretted later. I can't have it, I suspect flour was used. This was supposed to be served at dinner bit of a communication breakdown. At dinner however he gets another one. Funny though it was my dessert but presented to him. Another communication problem. We share it.

    We had a great lecture on world war II in the battle of the Coral Sea. So much I didn't know about what had happened during the second world war. How close the Japanese had to come to their goal of occupying all of this part of the Pacific. The battle was quite close in the end.

    Halloween dancing and music followed. No dancing for me but watching was fun. Our classically trained pianist studied for nine years tonight dressed as a pumpkin he played and sang Highway to Hell. This was funny particularly for the Aussies    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    Once bare breasted now covered. Looks like top is made from palm leavesChildren watching from the windows

    Culture and a cultural experience

    October 30, 2024 on the Solomon Islands ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We have to be up reasonably early as our first briefing is at 8:30, which means an early breakfast. The briefing involves the usual presentation on how to get in and out of a zodiac and how to wear a life preserver. The naturalists team are introduced, a very large team of 19 from a range of countries including France, Australia, New Zealand and someone from Ireland. They have a diverse range of backgrounds and should be able to provide us with excellent information about not just the area above but also what is below. Lastly we are given information about the Solomon Islands and how to be respectful. I realize how ignorant I have been about this part of the world, most of what we hear on our news relates to terrible riots. Once you get off the main island of Guadalcanal, there are a host of smaller Island provinces and a vast archipelago of tiny Islands. Today we will visit the first of these in Malaita Province.

    Riding in a zodiac is always fun and that is our transport to the island. The locals don't have many foreign visitors and many come down to where our zodiacs are landing. The first part of the visit involves traditional singing and dancing. First the men, followed by a group of girls from the local school, boys from the same school perform, and finally women from the village. It is very entertaining and completely different to anything I have seen before. It seems like the whole village had come out to watch the performances and were as entertained as we were many of them taking photographs. This is something we saw in the Arctic when we visited Inuit communities they would put on a performance and the small town would turn out and watch it with us.

     The village itself consists of huts made from sago palm leaves, it is very well kept and orderly. We were taken to the end of the island with a local guide. Her English wasn't great so we really didn't get that much information from her. We did learn they harvest seaweed for export. But it was nice that she was there. Ponant is careful and very mindful of is our safety. We have a small party from China which is somewhat puzzling given they have minimal English and no French. They have a guide with them who I presume is responsible for giving them all the information we have had in the briefings. The information flow does not seem to have been all that good because several of them were doing things we were asked not to do. One older gentleman was coaxed into a canoe by children. It was a small dugout clearly designed for children. He had a paddle but it quickly filled with water and the canoe sank and he was dunked in the water. The children of course found this very entertaining. I suspect there will be words spoken to the person managing the group.

    Tonight is the first of the gala dinners and it's quite an evening. It begins with a welcome cocktail, introduction of the key personnel on the ship and an opportunity to have a photo taken with the captain, I skip this. The weather is warm, no rain so we are outside. We have been invited to join the captain's table for dinner which means very good service and excellent food and wine. We skip the entertainment and retire early. An early start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Julie FisherAncient cultures Solomon/PNGTraveler
    2HoniaraLeaving GuadalcanalOur double suite at least for one legVolodymyr our pianist

    Arrival Honiara

    October 29, 2024, Solomon Sea ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We had a short two and half hour flight from Brisbane to Honiara, on the island of Guadalcanal. We disembark and the heat hits us, mercifully it's a dry heat but the rainy season is about to arrive. We have a short drive to the port where our ship is docked. It isn't surprising that at first glance it is a very poor place, but that's something we already know. We are told, and there is evidence everywhere, that most of the larger retail shops and service businesses are owned by the Chinese, we pass a very large impressive sports stadium funded by the Chinese government. Of course, I recall the controversies that have arisen in recent times over Chinese influence in this part of the world.

    The local shops and houses are very similar to those we have seen in places like Madagascar. Often they are very simple structures. Small huts with Palm leaves for a roof this is where locals sell produce to local buyers. Schooling is expensive, so I imagine that many of the children get only a very basic education. I can't imagine anybody wanting to be a tourist here. For us this is just the starting point, our journey will take us through the various Islands of The Solomons.

    We go through the usual process for boarding, find our cabin, unpack our luggage and head to the first now very familiar briefing and life jacket drill. Once this is over we can continue unpacking and get to dinner. There was a mix-up with our booking, after we booked the first leg of the trip we decided we would do the second leg which has various advantages including the fact that we get off the ship in Cairns for the day but our luggage stays in our room. Although we had paid the deposit, there was no evidence that they knew we would be continuing on. The cabin we had originally booked on a lower deck was now no longer available, but because we are good customers they have given us a cabin on a deck higher up, we knew about this, what we didn't know was that in fact we were getting two rooms. There's a divider between them and they have simply opened that up, clearly the ship is not full. What luxury now we each have a dressing room.

    We're not traveling with anyone this time, which means we take potluck at dinner with who we might be sitting with, we could sit by ourselves but that's not very interesting. Shortly after sitting down two French women ask if they could join us. One said they had intended to sit with other French passengers but they were rejected so that's a good start. They were great and I am sure we will eat with them again. We have found on previous cruises that the French are not inclined to mix with English speakers. Other nationalities will but the French tend to keep to themselves.

    Apart from knowing all the protocols and the process of boarding another benefit of sailing with the same company is that you come across naturalists, staff etc. you have met before on previous ships. This trip is no exception, our evening entertainment is a very talented Ukrainian pianist. Our cruise director has been our cruise director on two other trips. One of the naturalists was with us in the sub-antarctic.

    After dinner night cap with our favorite pianist and our day is done.    Read more

    Trip start
    October 29, 2024
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