Banda Neira, spice islands

The spice Islands have been an important part of Indonesia's history. Spice trading goes back centuries The Dutch arrived aiming to monopolize the spice trade into Europe. They were brutal in their approach, killing the locals who controlled the trade, seizing the land and the spices. Their control did not end until other countries learned to grow the precious spices, particularly cinnamon and nutmeg.

I concluded yesterday that I have a chest infection and so I started antibiotics hoping to get it under control quickly. I had every intention of getting up early to watch the ship sail into the harbour, it became obvious that I really can't. I make the decision not to go ashore for the ceremony to see if I can at least make the snorkel in the afternoon. As the ship arrived and part of the welcome, a couple of canoes greet us which begins the ceremony. I did see them. Bob of course goes ashore and comes back his shirt soaked in perspiration, it was very hot and humid but he enjoyed the morning. He described how apparently our captain boarded a zodiac to get to the ceremony but was sent back because he was supposed to arrive on the royal canoe. Bob recorded a video which was very impressive with male dancers performing a war-like dance with spears and shields and dressed in elaborate costumes. I'm glad I didn't go because after the ceremony he went on the guided three hour walk through the town in searing heat. I would not have made it. He said that it was different to last year when he was here, they seem to be building more of a tourist trade.

I spent some time on the balcony watching birds, I could see a number of frigate birds circling over the mountain/ dormant volcano at the back of the town. In the afternoon I heard cockatoos and could just see them with my binoculars as they were flying screeching as they went. It isn't the only place we've heard or seen sulfur crested cockatoos. It seems a bit strange, but many of the birds here, including the lorikeets are native to this area. I also see what we now know as a 'bait ball.' When a predator is under the water the fish jump out to try and avoid being eaten. This creates a silver glint on the water and you can see by the movement of the fish where the predator is heading although you never get to see the predator. Any birds in the area will arrive to catch the fish as they leap from the water. One fish which was very large I saw from the balcony, quite a long way off, jumped out of the water and landed some meters away, quite a spectacular sight. No point trying to photograph any of this, just better to watch through the binoculars and enjoy nature at work.

I am feeling better and confident that I'll be able to snorkel which is good news. The snorkel will involve jumping from a zodiac into the water just off the coast we will then swim to another zodiac which has a ladder enabling us to get back on board. We were advised we need to be experienced snorkelers, in fact it wasn't particularly difficult. I think the main issue was that not far from the shore it becomes very deep. There is no beach here because the volcano erupted some time ago and the lava flow ended at the water where we are swimming. It is an excellent spot to snorkel and probably the best we have ever done. The day is fine and the water is clear. The corals were unusual and very colorful. This part of the reef is clearly very healthy and because it is so deep we see things we wouldn't normally see. Some of the coral is a vivid green, some are shaped like mega herbs like cabbages, there are many soft and hard corals. This of course means a wide variety of fish, I see long bright orange, flat fish looks a little like a garfish, a groper and sea cucumbers. There is a bit of a current dragging me further out from shore so I have to keep looking up and making sure I'm still heading towards the zodiac. I need to catch to get back. At one point I looked up and discovered there were almost no people still in the water, I can't see Bob. One of the naturalists on a small rescue inflatable comes up and tells me Bob is already in a zodiac and would I like him to help me get back, I think I can do it by myself but I accept the offer. He must be very strong because he tows me hanging on to the inflatable back to the zodiac. It was a gloriously wonderful snorkel.Read more