Jim Harrison

Welcome dear reader to the forest-tour section of our journey for a short stay at the Tangoko Ranger Home Stay and a look in the Tangoko National Park. This area has a high number of unique species as befits its location where Australia tectonically met Asia millions of years ago. Most come here to see the tarsiers, the smallest primates in the world, able to fit in the palm of a hand. They come out of tree hollows at dusk so a guide to find them and one's way home is essential. In addition we saw troops of black macaques, huge and brilliant crested hornbills, a variety of kingfishers, hair crested drongos, a type of dollar bird and other crazy stuff. The other notable critter was a cuscus. They are a marsupial like kangaroos, moving slowly in trees like sloths.

Part of what makes this area interesting is that there is a distinct boundary in animal types based upon the geologic origin of the particular island: from the Australian or Asian tectonic plates. A naturalist, Alfred Russel Wallace collected many species throughout this region over a period of years. He is credited with having independently derived the notion of natural selection but returned to publish his idea just shortly after Darwin published The Origin of Species and fame for "discovering evolution". But Wallace described the clear line through Indonesia separating Asian and Australian types and it is known today as the Wallace Line"

The guide we hired is the son of a park ranger who helped coordinate NAT Geo, BBC, Animal Planet, etc. filming here. He named his son, our guide, Alfritz Russel Masala in honor of Alfred Wallace mentioned above. He was a great guide, able to spot unmoving birds in the forest canopy, others hopping along the forest floor, calling in some. It was amazing to find out how much one could see in a slow saunter in the forest. It was our mistake not to have booked another day or two with him to see other upland parts of the park.

We were shuttled the two hour trips to and from Manado by Alfretz's brother, Frankie. Also named for a conservationist, he also helped explain local life there. The village we were in is historically a fishing village and he helped us to see that, some coconut processing, and an unusual old cemetery where people are buried upright in the fetal position (knees to face) and facing north. It is called Wagoro, I think.

Frankie also explained the bottles of blue and yellow Coca Cola we see being sold at lots of roadside stands. They are actually reused bottles of benzene or another fuel but look kind of refreshing on the shelf..... Picture below.

Driving here, on the left with torrents of motorbikes and the apparent absence of rules is best delegated, even for those of us with control issues. Driving seems to be one of setting a determined direction, honking to help others echolocate you, making no sudden moves and not worrying until something (moving or not) is less than 6 inches away. Yes, I meant 6 inches.......Really. ... Repeatedly ...for hours. Delegation is good.

Virtually nobody on bicycles, but three people or crates on a motorbike is common. I would be too frightened to bike here and success/ non fatality would require constant high alertness. If this is what Laos, Thailand and Malaysia are like I will stop eyeing a guided bike tour to I have been considering.

Food and accommodations at the Tangoko Ranger Home Stay were basic but nice. We were glad to have upgraded to air conditioning. The fried rice, local fish and probably even more local chicken was tasty.

Now off to a home rental SW of Manado, overlooking the coast, for our last stop. Sister Susan and husband Howard returned home after the diving in Raja Ampat. We learned that their trip home went well. It was really nice being with them.Leer más