Samurai echoes on Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo Trail was once a key route connecting Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo). During the Edo period, this was one of the five main highways used by feudal lords, samurai, and their entourages, travelling under the strict regulations of the Tokugawa shogunate. Unlike the coastal Tokaido route, Nakasendo passed through the mountains, linking 69 post towns (shukuba) that offered food, rest, and lodging to travelers.

We began our walk from Ochiai Station, after a short train ride from Nagiso. The trail greeted us with an almost surreal scene: a narrow, moss-covered stone path winding through dense forest. It felt like stepping back in time. One could easily imagine the quiet steps of a traveling samurai echoing off the stones.

We passed a small, mystical forest temple, its stone lanterns covered in thick moss. The atmosphere reminded me of Ghibli films – a Japan I had dreamed of for years.

After about 5 km, we reached Magome, a carefully restored post town. Beautiful, but maybe a bit too polished and touristic. From there, the trail became more lively as we walked another 8 km to Tsumago, passing fellow hikers and stopping at a traditional tea house offering free tea by the fire – everyone was welcome, even dusty wanderers.

In Tsumago, we visited the Wakihonjin Okuya, once a secondary inn for samurai and lower-ranked officials. The wooden interiors and preserved rooms told stories of a very different time.

We tried local dumplings, chestnut ice cream, too many rice snacks, and a generous cup of sake – Maciek claimed it gave him double vision. The final 6 km back to Nagiso Station (where our camper was waiting) felt light and calm. Phones were dead from too many photos.

The Nakasendo Trail is stunning – especially the first, quiet part from Ochiai to Magome. In total, we walked about 20 km from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., through history and moss.Read more