• Martina Bukowska
  • Maciek Cieslik
  • Martina Bukowska
  • Maciek Cieslik

Career breake 2024-2025

Un’avventura di 218 giorni di Martina & Maciek Leggi altro
  • Samurai echoes on Nakasendo trail

    24–25 mar 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Nakasendo Trail was once a key route connecting Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo). During the Edo period, this was one of the five main highways used by feudal lords, samurai, and their entourages, travelling under the strict regulations of the Tokugawa shogunate. Unlike the coastal Tokaido route, Nakasendo passed through the mountains, linking 69 post towns (shukuba) that offered food, rest, and lodging to travelers.

    We began our walk from Ochiai Station, after a short train ride from Nagiso. The trail greeted us with an almost surreal scene: a narrow, moss-covered stone path winding through dense forest. It felt like stepping back in time. One could easily imagine the quiet steps of a traveling samurai echoing off the stones.

    We passed a small, mystical forest temple, its stone lanterns covered in thick moss. The atmosphere reminded me of Ghibli films – a Japan I had dreamed of for years.

    After about 5 km, we reached Magome, a carefully restored post town. Beautiful, but maybe a bit too polished and touristic. From there, the trail became more lively as we walked another 8 km to Tsumago, passing fellow hikers and stopping at a traditional tea house offering free tea by the fire – everyone was welcome, even dusty wanderers.

    In Tsumago, we visited the Wakihonjin Okuya, once a secondary inn for samurai and lower-ranked officials. The wooden interiors and preserved rooms told stories of a very different time.

    We tried local dumplings, chestnut ice cream, too many rice snacks, and a generous cup of sake – Maciek claimed it gave him double vision. The final 6 km back to Nagiso Station (where our camper was waiting) felt light and calm. Phones were dead from too many photos.

    The Nakasendo Trail is stunning – especially the first, quiet part from Ochiai to Magome. In total, we walked about 20 km from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., through history and moss.
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  • Nara Park 🦌& Osaka by night

    26 marzo 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The day began with a walk through Nara Park. It was expected to be crowded, but instead, the park felt open and calm, full of deer wandering in groups. They looked peaceful and didn’t mind the presence of gaijin. One of them gently nudged Maciek awake from a nap - apparently, he smelled like snacks. A woman played the shamisen nearby, pink ume (plum) blossoms were starting to bloom, and a local artist painted in silence. The atmosphere was slow and soothing.

    In the evening, the mood shifted in Osaka. First stop: Nipponbashi, a district known for manga, maid cafés, and, unexpectedly, extremely explicit sex shops-definitely a one-time experience. Later, in Dotonbori, we found gluten-free okonomiyaki, plus pho and ramen. Everything hot and comforting.

    We spent the night on a rest stop by the highway. The camper shook with every passing truck, but we still slept well.
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  • Himeji Castle 🏯

    27 marzo 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    On the way to our next destination, we stopped at Himeji Castle – probably the most famous and most visited castle in all of Japan. It’s a massive white structure with six floors, standing 46 meters tall including the stone base. Built in the early 1600s, it has survived wars, earthquakes and even bombings completely untouched. It was never captured and is considered one of the best examples of original Japanese castle architecture.

    The castle was home to powerful samurai families, including the Ikeda clan, and served mainly as a stronghold and administrative center. A few years ago, the entire structure underwent a major renovation. For several years it was hidden under a giant scaffolding hall – which, surprisingly, is what impressed Maciek the most. He still talks about that huge box that once covered the whole castle like a spaceship landed on top of it.

    Visiting Himeji is quite a process. There’s a very organized route for tourists – from the ticket gate all the way to the exit – and it feels like being part of a silent procession. We followed the path through every level of the castle, one after another, together with hundreds of others. At every turn and stairway, there was a Japanese staff member making sure everything moved smoothly. That kind of order and precision felt very typically Japanese.

    The castle itself is beautiful, no doubt – clean, white, impressive. But for me, it’s maybe a bit too perfect. I tend to prefer smaller castles, slightly rougher around the edges. Places where it’s easier to imagine the people who once lived there.
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  • Shikoku’s slower pace

    28 marzo 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    To escape the noise and speed of the cities, a quiet detour was made - to one of the most remote areas in Japan: Tokushima Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku. The drive itself was already something to remember. Roads twisted and climbed through the mountains, narrowing to the point where two cars shouldn’t fit - yet somehow, they do.

    Originally, the goal was to explore the Iya Valley - a stunning mountain area known for its deep ravines and ancient vine bridges (kazurabashi). Built from woven wisteria vines and wooden planks, these swaying bridges were once used by mountain clans and samurai to cross the rivers. They move slightly underfoot, and the water below runs fast and clear..

    But the show was stolen by the Nagoro village 🤨🙃. Once a small but lively village with around 300 residents, today only 27 remain. One of them is Tsukimi Ayano, an artist who returned to her childhood village after many years. Shocked by the emptiness, she made a life-sized cloth doll to represent her late father. Villagers greeted it, as if it was alive. So she made another. And another. Each puppet got a name, a story, a personality.

    Now, over 300 dolls populate Nagoro - at the school, by the bus stop, on benches and fields, in everyday positions. The effect is surreal. The village seems full, but also frozen in time.
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  • Onsen from Spirited Away ♨️

    29 marzo 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    An onsen is a Japanese hot spring bath, and Dogo Onsen is one of the oldest in the country-its history goes back more than 3,000 years. A central figure in its rich folklore is the white egret, which serves as the onsen’s enduring symbol. According to local legend, a white egret with an injured leg found healing in these waters. People noticed the bird returning each day until it fully recovered. That’s when the locals started bathing here, believing in the power of the spring.

    Dogo Onsen’s main building is beautiful-made of dark wood, with narrow hallways and small tatami rooms. It was also the inspiration for the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away, and it really does look similar. At night it has a quiet, old-fashioned atmosphere, with warm light coming from the wooden building and steam rising from the streets. We decided to experience the onsen ourselves the next morning.

    At the entrance, we were given traditional yukata and small towels. The baths are separated by gender, so we had to go to different sides. First, it’s necessary to wash yourself very carefully-only after that can you step into the bath.

    After the bath, we had green tea in a small tatami room, and later visited the old rooms reserved for the imperial family. Even though the visit was short, the place gave a strong feeling of calm and tradition. This kind of onsen experience is something very special - not just for the body, but also for the spirit 😌.

    Later, we drove to Hiroshima via the scenic Shimanami Kaido with great dinner break 😋.
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  • Hiroshima

    30 marzo 2025, Giappone ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Hiroshima was a powerful stop on our journey - both emotionally and historically. On the morning of August 6, 1945, the first atomic bomb ever used in war was dropped on the city. The bomb, nicknamed “Little Boy”, exploded about 600 meters above the ground, instantly destroying most of central Hiroshima. Around 70,000 people died immediately. By the end of the year, the death toll reached approximately 140,000, due to injuries and radiation sickness. The area of destruction covered roughly 13 square kilometers.

    In school, nobody really explains what this kind of weapon does to a human body. That it can cause burns so severe the skin peels off in sheets, or that radiation sickness might appear even years later - slowly destroying lives. For thousands, that one moment ended not just their physical life, but their future, their health, or their families. Some politicians should perhaps visit the Peace Memorial Museum from time to time - or what’s left of the old Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, now known as the Atomic Bomb Dome - perhaps common sense would return to those who need it most…
    Inside one preserved school building, messages written by parents searching for their children still remain on the walls. Paintings by survivors show flames, collapsed buildings, and silent panic.

    After WWII, Japan chose a radically different path. No more wars, no military aggression. Their past crimes in Korea or the Philippines are still visible in those countries - but here in Hiroshima, there is no tone of blame. The memorials do not point fingers. Instead, they repeat one message again and again: peace, memory, and the hope that it never happens again.

    Today, Hiroshima is a calm, modern city. At the spot where the bomb exploded - the hypocenter - there’s now a small stone marker. It sits quietly between regular buildings, with people passing by on their way to work or lunch. Nothing dramatic, just a reminder, if you know where to look.
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  • Sakura in Kyoto 🌸

    1–4 apr 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Cherry blossoms 🌸 finally arrived in Kyoto. For Japanese people this is a very special time. The pink or white flowers bloom before the green leaves return after winter - making the contrast against the dark tree branches especially striking.

    It also means crowds. A lot of them.

    One day I lost to feeling unwell - resting in the camper on a parking lot instead of exploring what is probably the most beautiful city in Japan. But Kyoto offers second chances. In the evening, after tourists disappear, the narrow alleys of Gion grow quiet. Then, suddenly, geisha glide past - silent and fast, vanishing around corners just as quickly as they appear. The famous karyūkai - „the world of flowers and willows” - stays hidden from foreign cameras, and maybe that’s how it should be.. 😌 (In a way, it’s balanced out by the many blonde beauties in rental kimonos and sneakers rushing through the lanes, phones in hand).

    Still, the day had its highlights. A ride along the Philosopher’s Path, a rare visit to Hōnen-in Temple (open only for a few weeks each year), a relaxing soak in the local sentō Sakura-yu, drinking warm amazake together under the open sky and a spontaneous purchase of a beautiful haori 👘 made it memorable.
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  • Japanese Alps 🏔️

    5–8 apr 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The so-called “Japanese Alps” led us further into central Honshu, stretching from the Northern to Southern Alps - known locally as Hida, Kiso, and Akaishi Mountains. It’s a rugged region of high peaks, deep valleys, and alpine villages, often compared to Switzerland for a reason. In April, the mountains still wear a heavy coat of snow. Many roads and trails were closed, and the open paths were icy and steep. Without proper gear, any real hike felt too risky. After one slippery attempt and a few falls, the decision was simple-no more climbing this time.

    Instead, the focus shifted. There was time to slow down, explore what was within reach. People, food, and the smaller stories of this place. Maciek had one culinary goal-try the famous Japanese beef. In Hida, Gifu Prefecture, we found a gem: Yamayu Ushi Ikkan. A small feast followed. I hadn’t eaten beef in over five years, but curiosity won. It was incredible melt-in-the-mouth tender, rich, and almost sweet. No regrets.

    Near Matsumoto, we visited Matsumoto-jō, the “Black Crow Castle,” one of Japan’s oldest surviving wooden castles. Nearby, Kurobe Dam impressed with its sheer scale - it’s the tallest in Japan. Close to Nagano, we walked the peaceful Togakushi Cedar Avenue, where ancient notrees line the path to old shrines.

    The journey ended in Nikkō. We crossed the iconic Shinkyo Bridge, bright red against the river. The Tayiuin Shrine complex offered detail after detail, colors, dragons, and gold. Most surprising was the Five-Story Pagoda - its center hides a suspended pillar designed to absorb shock during earthquakes. Clever and beautiful.

    And in all the pauses, retro cafés and old wooden inns offered shelter and tea. Conversations happened - finally in English - with locals happy to share thoughts and stories. And I found my favorite Japanese dish: Yuba😋 - a delicate tofu skin formed during the boiling of soy milk.
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  • 🌆 Tokio - streets of the MEGACITY

    9 aprile 2025, Giappone ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Tokyo is the largest city in the world in terms of population and urban area. With over 37 million people living in the metropolitan area, it has almost the same number of residents as the whole of Poland. It also holds records in the number of train stations, Michelin-starred restaurants, and convenience stores. The scale is hard to imagine - until being inside it.

    Exploring began in Shibuya, home of the famous Hachiko statue, a tribute to the loyal dog who waited years for his owner at the station. Just next to it is the Shibuya Crossing - often called the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. Although during our visit it was mainly full of tourists taking photos, the place still had energy. The surrounding area immediately pulled us in—trying on kimonos was a must, and the shops nearby offered everything from vintage toys to ten kinds of face masks.

    Eventually, it was time to escape the chaos. A short walk brought us to Yoyogi Park, where students jumped rope and couples lay on the grass. A surprisingly peaceful break in the heart of the megacity. Not for long though - we soon ended up on Takeshita Street in Harajuku, a narrow street packed with strange fashion, sweets shaped like animals, and a crowd that never stops moving. A mix of real Tokyo youth and visiting TikTokers.

    As the temperature dropped, we took a bus to Shinjuku, landing in Kabukicho, Tokyo’s red-light and entertainment district. Neon everywhere, people everywhere - this was exactly how I imagined Tokyo. After dinner (amazing curry), we made one last stop at Omoide Yokocho - an alley full of tiny izakayas, traditional Japanese bars that serve small dishes with drinks. Locals come after work for beer, yakitori, and gossip. Most places were closing already, but the narrow lanes still had a special mood. Could have stayed there much longer 🌆.
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  • Akihabara: Game Boy City

    10 aprile 2025, Giappone ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    The day started early and a bit unexpectedly. Our camper van had to be moved - someone had clearly noticed our quiet parking spot, and staying wasn’t an option anymore. Not the best start, and it definitely affected the mood for a while. Still, we had plans.

    Next stop was Akihabara, Tokyo’s famous Electric Town. It’s a place where each building feels like its own little world. Many have six or more floors, each packed with old game consoles, rare electronics, manga, and anime merchandise. Maciek was completely in his element - pointing out Game Boys, cartridges from the ’90s, and forgotten brands. Some shops even let visitors play on retro arcade machines. The mix of neon lights, electronic sounds, and narrow escalators added to the atmosphere.

    From there, we walked to Ueno. Just outside the station, under the railway tracks, there’s a long row of stores selling clothes, bags, sneakers, and souvenirs. This area is known as Ameya-Yokochō, a market that started as a post-war black market. Now it’s full of energy - people bargaining, small bars with only four seats, fruit stands next to shops selling watches. We stopped at a Korean food stall and shared some spicy gimbap🍲.
    In the evening, the idea was to visit Asakusa and walk near the river, but rain started falling hard. Plans changed again. We went instead to the Tokyo Skytree, hoping to see the view from the top. First, a stop at the Ghibli store - full of Totoro and Spirited Away details ♥️. The last chance of the day was the observation deck, but ticket sales had just ended. A bit of a letdown. We returned to our van tired and quiet. Not everything worked out today, but at least it was still Tokyo🔥.
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  • Horses of Mongolia 🐎

    14–15 apr 2025, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Flying in from Japan, the view from the plane gave the first taste of how vast and raw Mongolia really is. Below, the endless sands of the Gobi Desert met the sky in soft waves of color. The taxi ride from the airport into Ulaanbaatar only added to the first impressions.

    With the weather on our side, the journey properly began with a horseback ride through the Mongolian steppe. Together with our local guide, Bilgun, we left the city and drove just about an hour before reaching Terelj National Park. The park is known for its rocky formations, open landscapes and nomadic camps scattered across the valleys. At the edge of the park, we met the horse owner. The horses were already saddled—small, sturdy, and calm.

    The route took us through tiny villages, past wooden houses and gers, along a river just beginning to thaw. By late afternoon, we reached our overnight stop—a traditional ger, the round felt-covered dwelling used by nomads. Inside, wooden furniture painted in bright colors, a central stove, and thick blankets. First task: light the fire. Then dinner, tea, and silence, broken only by the wind and the occasional sound from nearby yaks. When the sun disappeared, the temperature dropped fast. Even the yaks looked tired.

    We stayed up talking with Bilgun under a large, silver moon. At some point I dozed off, and when Maciek was ready to sleep too, the fire had already died. No draft, no heat—but eventually the fire came back to life. We slept, wrapped in sleeping bags, heavy with the cold and the stars outside.

    Morning brought a short walk and some unexpected encounters—an adorable Mongolian girl, falcons hunting small animals in the grass, and horses roaming free with yaks, everywhere. It was peaceful and simple. The way back was slow, almost meditative, though the short stirrups and stiff saddles made the knees ache.

    We ended the day with a stop at the massive Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex. The statue is the tallest equestrian monument in the world—40 meters of steel, with Chinggis staring into the east from horseback. Beneath it, a small museum (visited without electricity—no lights, just echoes). A strange but fitting finish to the day.
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  • 🇲🇳Ulaanbataar - capital of the steppe

    16–17 apr 2025, Mongolia ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Almost half of Mongolia’s population lives in Ulaanbaatar, and it’s clear why - despite the chaos, the city has its own rhythm. Fancy cars drive past crumbling Soviet buildings. People walk fast, dressed in a mix of streetwear and tailored coats. There’s a feeling of freedom here - no one stares, no one judges. Just motion.

    Mongolians are proud, and that pride shows in everything - from huge monuments of Chinggis Khaan to casual conversations. At its peak, the Mongol Empire reached far beyond China and Russia, all the way to Hungary and even Poland, which was invaded several times in the 13th century. History is alive here, and so is politics - people speak about it openly.

    Locals were unexpectedly warm and helpful. Twice, strangers stopped just to tell us something useful - once about a free circus show nearby, starting in a few minutes. Small moment, but memorable.

    The food is heavy - mostly meat with more meat. Vegetables seem optional at best. Street vendors sell hot dumplings and skewers, and there’s always milk tea somewhere. At Naran Tuul Market, also called the Black Market, everything from boots to saddles is sold. A bit chaotic, very local, and full of energy.

    There are downsides - traffic is constant and slow, and it’s better to keep an eye on your bag. But still, something about Ulaanbaatar sticks. The people, the contrasts, the sky. Already thinking about coming back🥰🥰🥰.
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  • Through the Gobi Desert 🛤️

    18–19 apr 2025, Cina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The train journey across the Gobi Desert to Beijing took 35 hours in total, covering a distance of around 1,500 kilometers. The route went through both Inner and Outer Mongolia-although the second one, despite its name, is fully within Chinese borders. We barely made it on time for the train. Without the help of yet another kind Mongolian, it probably wouldn’t have been possible.

    Outside the window-just desert. A wide, endless emptiness, only broken now and then by distant herds of horses, camels or sheep. Inside the train, a mix of Soviet charm and practical comfort. Fresh sheets in the bunk beds, giant thermoses filled with hot water brought by the staff, and a cheerful group of Mongolians on vacation. Time passed quickly with poker, other games, and long conversations. They introduced us to what they claimed is the best Mongolian music band in the world (The Hu). It actually wasn’t bad at all.

    Despite Maciek’s cold, the ride went by surprisingly fast. There was a strange sense of space (but only outside 😉). It was hard not to feel a bit nostalgic already. Saying goodbye to Mongolia wasn’t easy. There’s something in the way people behave here- direct, and open-that stays in the mind longer than expected.

    P.S. There was a transfer in Hohhot, capital of Inner Mongolia. The last night was on a different train, this time only with Chinese passengers. Much quieter. Slept so well I woke up straight in Beijing😴.
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  • 🐣 Easter in Beijing 🇨🇳

    20–21 apr 2025, Cina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    A short stay in Beijing turned out to be quite active – most of the time was spent on bicycles. Riding around the city was an experience on its own. The streets are massive, often with many lanes, and even the bike lanes are wide and often two-lane themselves. Surrounded by other cyclists and electric scooters, it felt like being part of the city’s rhythm.

    Of all the large cities visited during this trip, Beijing made the strongest impression. Its size is hard to describe – even St. Petersburg felt smaller, with narrower roads. There’s also a very visible level of control: security cameras almost everywhere, along with frequent military or police presence. But despite that, most locals seemed calm, well-organized, and quite content.

    Easter was celebrated in a local style. There was a small Easter breakfast, followed by Peking duck for dinner – a delicious highlight. Walks through the old hutong districts added a slower pace to the visit. The food was excellent throughout – dumplings, noodles, spicy sauces. Mostly, it was a time of rest and quiet moments. Beijing passed in a very Easter mood.
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  • Great Wall of China 🧗‍♀️

    22 aprile 2025, Cina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    To see the famous Great Wall of China, it was necessary to book a tour. The section chosen was Mutianyu, located about 70 km northeast of Beijing. This part of the wall is known for being less crowded than Badaling and for its beautiful restoration work. It was originally built in the mid-6th century during the Northern Qi dynasty, then rebuilt in the Ming dynasty to strengthen the northern defenses.

    The wall follows the ridgeline of steep hills - access would be tough without help, so the decision was to take the cable car up. The slope is serious, and the views from the top are already rewarding. The restored part is impressive: clean, solid, and winding like a stone dragon across the mountains.

    Eventually, the path reached the end of the renovated section. But it didn’t stop there. Through a window in one of the towers, it was possible to climb out onto the unrestored wall. That’s where the real experience started. Crumbled stones, overgrown steps, and silence. No tourists. That part, broken and wild, was somehow more honest. There, the Wall felt less like a monument and more like what it really is – a trace of history left on the land.
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  • Kathmandu 🇳🇵

    23–26 apr 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Finally, we arrived in Nepal - almost the last stop of our journey. The beginning was not perfect, as a bad cold kept us in bed for a few days. After some rest and a lot of tea, it was time to get moving again. A scooter was rented and the first destination was Pashupatinath Temple.

    Pashupatinath, one of the most important Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva, is located by the Bagmati River. It is a place full of history, traditions, and emotions. The funeral ceremonies that happen daily by the riverbank are powerful to watch - open-air cremations with chanting and rituals create a deeply mystical atmosphere.

    Feeling a bit stronger, we decided to escape the city’s constant noise and headed towards Nagarkot, known for its fresh air and views of the Himalayas. The road was bumpy and dusty, and unfortunately, there was a small crash with the scooter. Scraped knees and dusty clothes, but no serious injuries - just another travel memory.

    Kathmandu itself is a true explosion of life. Narrow alleys, colorful prayer flags, the smell of spices in the air, and sounds of horns and bells everywhere. The food here is absolutely delicious - full of flavor and character. Despite the chaos, it feels welcoming and lively.
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  • Patan Darbar after the quake

    27 aprile 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The journey continued with a scooter ride to Patan Durbar Square. Patan, also called Lalitpur - “City of Beauty” - is known for its rich history and beautiful Newar architecture. The main square is full of ancient temples, statues, and a royal palace complex. It was nice just to sit on the window and watch the life around - people chatting, kids playing, pigeons everywhere.

    However, not everything is perfect. Stacks of bricks still lie around many corners, a reminder of the powerful earthquake in 2015 that damaged much of the Kathmandu Valley. Restoration works are ongoing, but the scars are still clearly visible.

    Later, a walk through the narrow streets around Patan showed even more of local daily life - small workshops, busy markets, hidden courtyards with shrines. It felt good to get a bit lost between the old buildings and dusty alleyways.
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  • Monkey Temple (Swayambhunath)

    3 maggio 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    After a few days of preparing for our upcoming trek, we decided to take a slower day and walk to Swayambhunath – also known as the Monkey Temple. Reaching Swayambhunath, with its stupa overlooking the valley and monkeys jumping between prayer flags, felt like a reward.
    Stepping outside the tourist zone opened up a different side of the city – narrow alleys, quiet courtyards, and an unexpected calm between the chaos. Kathmandu is full of surprises, a place where temples seem to appear around every corner and where the sacred is part of daily life.

    On the way, we met a student who offered to show us a few hidden spots. He led us to some lesser-known shrines, including a small monastery run entirely by female Buddhist practitioners. He explained how religion here blends Hinduism and Buddhism, with shared gods, rituals, and festivals. It’s more fluid than expected – people pray to both Hindu deities and Buddhist icons without thinking much about the boundaries. A day full of new impressions and dusty footsteps.
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  • 🚁 First steps in the Himalayas 🏔️

    5–7 mag 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The last few days were all about preparing for the trek. Most of the time went into planning the route (so far only same finger-on-the-map planning). Then came the shopping. Jackets, pants, hats, thermal layers, gaiters, rented sleeping bags - where we’re going, it will be cold, windy, and often wet. Luckily, Kathmandu is the kingdom of knock-offs. Almost every global outdoor brand is available here - just not quite as original.

    On top of that: medicine, snacks, electronics, insurance, flight tickets, permits. Somehow, everything fit into our backpacks.

    But getting to the trailhead is already part of the adventure. The plan was to fly to Lukla. That meant leaving at 6 a.m. for the airport, picking up our tickets, and then waiting several hours to finally hear the obvious: due to bad weather, no flights today. Tickets rebooked for tomorrow—but with no guarantee that planes would fly then, either.

    A quick search for a hotel near the airport, a soft bed, thoughts drifting toward lunch… when suddenly a call: two last seats on the final helicopter of the day, offered at the same price as the cancelled plane ticket. Grabbed our bags, ran to the terminal, waited another two hours, and finally lifted off.

    The flight over the hills of Nepal was spectacular—small villages, terraced fields, ridgelines lost in mist. Headsets on, joking with the pilot as we climbed higher into the mountains.

    From Lukla, still three more hours on foot to Phakding, partly after sunset. The trail was quiet, cool, and surprisingly crowded. At the end, a warm teahouse, and a long conversation with our Nepali hosts—about weather, the mountains, and Jerzy Kukuczka.

    The trek has officially begun🥳🫣
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  • Phakding-> Namche Bazar 🏔️

    8–9 mag 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The route from Phakding to Namche Bazar (3440 m a.s.l.) was our first real day of trekking. The total elevation gain was around 800 meters and, with full backpacks and a lunch break, it took from 7 in the morning until 3 in the afternoon.
    The trail passed through several small villages—every now and then there was a teahouse or a tiny shop. Porters carrying massive loads kept overtaking us. It was hard to guess what they had until one of them took a short break. He was carrying crates of bananas—and even sold us a few straight from the load.
    The higher the trail went, the steeper and wilder it became. Villages disappeared and were replaced by suspension bridges and panoramic views. Closer to Namche, the terrain got tougher, but the scenery made up for the effort.
    From Namche Bazar, the view opened up to some of the giants—Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam were clearly visible. We admired them more the next day during our acclimatization hike, which took us up to 3880 m.
    So far, everything feels okay, although the body is definitely working hard.
    Curious what’s next..🤨
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  • 🏔️-> Pangboche-the oldest sherpa village

    10 maggio 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    After Maciek’s shoes were repaired (glue, stitches, and nails – the best cobbler ever), we set off again. The journey from Namche Bazaar to Pangboche (3930 m a.s.l.)took nearly 8 hours, covering a steep elevation gain of around 600 meters. Departure was at 7 AM sharp, so for the first hours the only companions on the trail were yaks, porters, and local villagers, moving with a natural ease through the landscape. Once again, the weather was perfect—clear skies and vivid green forests filled with blooming rhododendrons.

    The path was demanding. Several times it climbed high only to descend sharply into river valleys, before starting the ascent all over again. The toughest section led up to Tengboche, where we stopped for lunch. There, the famous Tengboche Monastery (or Dawa Choling Gompa) stands—a spiritual center for the Khumbu region. We stepped inside just in time to hear the monks chanting during a ceremony.
    From Tengboche, the trail was supposed to be gentler—but turned out to be unexpectedly steep and exposed. Rain and wind arrived fast. The final stretch was exhausting, but just as the drizzle turned into a real downpour, we reached Pangboche. It felt like arriving in the nick of time. A kind woman welcomed us, lit the stove, and served a hot meal. The evening was spent talking with two Czech travelers about politics and the places we’ve all seen. Sleep didn’t come easy, but that’s to be expected at this altitude.
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  • Ama Dablan& acclimatisation in Dingboche

    11–12 mag 2025, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    The trail from Pangboche to Dingboche (4,410 m) was shorter than expected—just four hours. The path was gentle, and the landscape began to feel more open, with fewer trees and more wide valleys. On arrival, we found a quiet teahouse with a glass-walled dining room and a perfect view of Ama Dablam. This will be our base for the next few days—it’s time for acclimatisation.

    A plate of dal bhat and some hash browns gave enough energy for the first acclimatisation hike. The goal was simple—climb 250 meters above Dingboche, rest for half an hour, and come back. The trail was easy without backpacks. The view on the way up opened to the whole village and surrounding peaks, but on the top, everything was inside the clouds. Still, it felt good to move and breathe at this altitude.

    The first night was rough. Maciek got sick—most likely altitude sickness—so we changed plans and decided to stay three nights instead of two. The next day was for rest only. It helped. The day after, with energy back, we climbed up to a 5,000-meter ridge. For me, this was a personal record—higher than Mont Blanc.

    The view on the way was spectacular. Ama Dablam really deserves its nickname as the most beautiful mountain in the world. At the top, again, clouds rolled in, hiding the peaks—but a group of small birds kept us company, curious and unafraid:)
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  • Way to Lobuche & Gorak Shep 🏞️

    13–14 mag 2025, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    The trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (4,940 m) turned out more difficult than expected. Many said this section was easy, but for some reason, this was the hardest day so far. No energy, heavy legs. Luckily, Maciek carried my sleeping bag, which made a difference. The trail passed through Thukla Pass, where a line of memorials stands for climbers who died on Everest. A quiet, serious place.

    In Lobuche, we spent the evening talking with a kind woman from Nepal. She told us how things were before the region became popular with trekkers. No lodges, no crowds, no Gore-Tex. At this altitude, everything is slower. Even reading out loud in bed caused shortness of breath.

    The next day brought a surprise. Just before rejoining the main trail, we walked through an area near the Italian research center called Pyramid. There we found the most beautiful path of the whole trip—surrounded by mountains, with the first big glaciers in sight. Far below, yaks moved slowly with their loads.

    Arrival at Gorak Shep (5,164 m) was tiring. Hungry and done. But unexpectedly, we found a great teahouse with good food and friendly faces. A small win in this high, rocky place.
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  • Everest Base Camp! 🥳

    15 maggio 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ -3 °C

    We made it! Everest Base Camp (5,364 m). This was the main goal of the trek, though not the hardest part. The final stretch from Gorak Shep followed a rocky path across the Khumbu Glacier. Not comfortable for walking—just stone after stone—but each step brought us closer.

    The base itself is bigger than expected. A real temporary village, full of color and life. Expedition tents of every kind—dining tents, sleeping tents, gym tents, even toilet tents. The layout and logistics are impressive. Thanks to the book In the Shadow of Everest, which I once received from Maciek’s family, the place already felt a bit familiar.

    The atmosphere here is different. Calm but focused. People prepare for serious climbs. The highlight is Khumbu Icefall—blue, smooth, and massive. It’s the start of the Everest route, beautiful and dangerous. The glacier is alive—moving, creaking. While walking through camp, the stone foundation of a tent nearby collapsed. Just a reminder of how unstable this place is.

    Of course, we took a photo on the famous rock with the “Everest Base Camp” sign—classic moment. Tired, a bit cold, but very happy to be here.
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  • Kala Patthar peak 5642 m 🏔️

    16 maggio 2025, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    The goal of that day was clear: reach the top of Kala Pattar, one of the best viewpoints for Mount Everest. Located at 5,642 meters, it’s higher than Elbrus in the Caucasus, and the thin air made every step heavier. The path was rocky and steep, especially in the final stretch, but there was no rush—just slow, steady walking and deep breathing.

    From the summit, the view was breathtaking. Not only Everest (8,848 m), but also Nuptse (7,861 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), Pumori (7,161 m), and Ama Dablam (6,812 m) appeared in full glory. Some clouds floated around the peaks, forming and disappearing again, making the whole scene even more dramatic. The sun lit up the snow, and everything looked unreal for a moment. There was a loud “woohoo”, a small nuts bar, and hot tea from a thermos.

    No long stay at the top though-there was still a 5-hour walk ahead. The descent led through changing light and beautiful terrain to the village of Dzongla, located at about 4,830 meters. That’s where we are now, resting for one full day before crossing the Cho La pass, which will be the toughest part of our Himalayan route🫣.
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