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Claire’s Camino

April – May 2024
  • Claire Bradford
Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago on the Camino Frances Read more
  • Claire Bradford

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  • Spain Spain
  • France France
  • England England
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Hiking, Self discovery, Solo travel
  • 2.0kmiles traveled
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  • 105footprints
  • 38days
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  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    And so it begins!

    April 2, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    On the train to Gatwick after some teary goodbyes. Nervous, excited and all the things.

    So… this Camino.
    It’s about change. Change in my life both physically (perimenopause) and situationally (kids being more independent). It’s claiming that for myself rather than letting change happen to me.

    It’s also about finding my edges - where I end and others begin. Knowing what I want, making my own decisions, not giving away my agency… all that stuff. Also relying on myself and knowing I can do that.

    I’m open to lessons, realisations and so on - life, spiritual, all sorts. I’d like to go to churches and seek that peace but I’m not doing it in a churchy way. What will be will be.    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Arriving in St Jean Pied de Port

    April 2, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I met my first Camino friend, Bob, at the airport. Bob had contacted me via the Camino forum a couple of months ago as it turned out we were leaving on the same day - and getting the same flight! We’d been messaging back and forth and he calls me his ‘Thunder Buddy’ as we get scared together sometimes! It was so lovely to meet him today and to be nervous together!

    We arrived at Biarritz airport and we were waiting for our taxi to take us to St Jean Pied de Port when we heard “hola peregrinos” and met Nick from Australia and his son Tom, who shared the taxi with us.

    We had a lovely welcome from Pantxika at Villa Esponda, which was overlooking our start for tomorrow. Then we headed out for some food and nervous anticipation of the journey ahead!    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Leaving St Jean Pied de Port

    April 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Got a bit enthusiastic and set off with Bob in the dark to go to the pilgrims’ office by 7 but, after hilariously getting lost 5 mins in, found that it didn’t open until 7:30

    Went and got a tea and a croissant in a cafe and returned half an hour later and got the all-important first stamp and an info download in Franglais from the helpful woman there.

    She told us that the famous Napoleon route over the mountain wasn’t open because of snow, so we had to go the alternative Valcarlos way. I was disappointed at that, and especially as she said it was even harder than the Napoleon way, which I’d been training for on the inclined treadmill!

    It was soooo warm, right from the off. I’d put on my hat and gloves but they were soon off, along with my down jacket.

    Met Nick and Tom, the Aussies, at the pilgrim office and Bob walked with us the first km or so but he’s going to set off tomorrow.    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Stage 1 - along the way

    April 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well we needn’t have been disappointed about going on the Valcarlos route as it turned out to be very pretty indeed. More road than the alternative, but they were quiet and wound through some pretty towns - like Valcarlos itself.

    It was great to see all the yellow arrows that I’d heard so much about. They just appear whenever you’re not quite sure which way to go. If only they were available for life in general!

    Chatted loads with Nick, who is a principal at an Australian school in Coffs Harbour. His son, Tom, was quiet but friendly and I enjoyed their company along the way.    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Arriving in Roncesvalles

    April 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our goal was in sight after a punishing few miles of steep uphill. We’d been told not to go through the woods towards the end because of snow but we accidentally ended up there anyway and it was beautiful. No snow, but quite a lot of mud.

    By this time, we’d been joined by Brittany, who is from Texas, and she’s staying in the hostel with me, in the opposite bed in fact!

    First night in an albergue and this one houses 183 people! They’ve really got it sorted well though, and the hospitaleros are super friendly and efficient. Hope it won’t be hideously noisy tonight.

    Hot shower, washing done with Brittany, chilling on the bed writing this, then off to an amazing pilgrims dinner at the hotel next door. 3 courses and wine for €13!

    There was a pilgrims mass at the church after dinner and I went along. It was beautiful but I felt curiously disconnected, so I left discretely and tucked myself up in bed.    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino
    Britney from Texas

    Leaving Roncesvalles

    April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Managed to get some sleep despite several snorers and all my excited energy! Picked up my weary washing from the line, reunited with my boots in the smelliest room (183 x sweaty pairs of shoes!) and set off with Brittany.

    Nick had a job interview this morning(!) so we went ahead with a plan to meet up later.

    Found a cafe for my first tortilla breakfast and chatted with Brittany. Told her all about Philip and how he was the inspiration and push for me being here. We both got a bit teary!    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Stage 2 - along the way

    April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Strolled by myself for a while before meeting a lovely Aussie called Alan. We chatted for a bit and he is funny and super well read and clever.

    We were amused, as we came out from some woods into a village, by a man who was very chatty and welcoming and added that he owned the second cafe along, extolling the virtues of its sunny terrace.

    He’d clearly done the same to lots of others, as said terrace was full of pilgrims (including us!), enjoying cake and drinks, presumable much to the chagrin of the owners of the first (and usually busiest) cafe!

    Also met another Australian there, Dave, who would pop up again several times in the day.

    Later on, we came across a stream which was inviting me to cool my feet, so that’s what I did and it was gorgeous! Alan politely declined and went on!

    Stopped for lunch in a pretty town, Bizkarreta, where I met Dave again and 2 Americans, SJ and Megan. SJ knows loads about archaeology and classics, and we had a great conversation.

    Also met up with Nick and Tom, we admired a friendly dog, and walked on together.    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Arriving in Zubiri

    April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Walked the afternoon with Nick and Tom and we got into Zubiri around 4:30.

    I took it easier today but was soooo tired when I got here! Checked into the albergue El Palo de Avellano, showered, washed my clothes and had a video call with R, which made me feel a long way away.

    Met Alan, Nick, Tom, Brittany and another couple of Aussies called Gary and Chuck at the bar where we had giant hamburgers!

    Spoke to E tonight too 🥰

    In a dorm with a French Canadian called Nancy and I impressed myself with our French conversation!    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Leaving Zubiri

    April 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A better nights sleep than the previous two and thank god there wasn’t much snoring in the dorm of 7 people!

    Had breakfast at the albergue and met Nick and Tom again and we set off towards Pamplona.

    Another gorgeous day on the Camino.

    Started with breakfast at the albergue and then set off from Zubiri with Nick and Tom, direction Pamplona.    Read more

  • Claire BradfordTravelerClaire’s Camino

    Stage 3 - along the way

    April 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    The first 2/3 of the walk was very green and tree-lined. We met lots of fellow pilgrims including Brittany and Alan at a little cafe where we stopped for a snack, and we all carried on together.

    The last third of the walk I spent with Brittany and Alan/Frank(!) and it was all road/pavement, which made our feet very sore and we were desperate to get there!

    We admired the plane trees which had been grown and pruned with their branches joining and they looked alien but beautiful.

    We stopped in a pretty church and I stamped my notebook so I didn’t run out of room on my credencial, which got me telling Brittany and Alan about the girls - and telling them a joke from the notebook, which was one of my challenges they’d set me.    Read more

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