Lake Malawi

Departure from Lilongwe was cathartic. Leaving after a short stop often is. I had unfinished business here but right now it couldn't be done.
I loaded up and followed the M1 towards the north. At some point I'd get to the M7 and into the quieter roads winding to the lake. Massive roadworks saw this principal highway sporting long stretches of slip roads functioning as bypasses. Enabling large scale extension, expansion and, eventually, resurfacing. I was a little slower than usual to respond but got there in the end monopolizing the freshly packed, or surfaced, area out of harm's way. Surprisingly the local cyclists didn't seem to indulge in this type of behaviour so freely. However some did follow suit on the longer stretches. At 60km Mponela arrived, which seemed like a good cold drink stop before diverting onto the quieter roads to the lake, 120 km further along. Riding through town I decided it was a better idea to overnight with a range of facilities including an array of ATMs. Winding my way through the town streets I got a local guide to the suggested Centurion Lodge. It was an over priced lower end joint. Sensibly I rejected it and headed to the, only slightly, more expensive Thope Lodge. Escorted by a cavalry of local kids who originally squawked for money, but actually turned into quite helpful and inquisitive guides. The well attired front desk provided a reassuring gauge of facilities. It was not without its puzzling aspects though. The entrance porch light shone directly into the curtain free bathroom window, with a doorless access spilling light into the bedroom. Of course no light switch. I jammed the doormat into the window frame which lasted long enough for me to fall asleep.
Back into the headwind and hills the next morning moving quickly onto the dirt road to Ntchisi, graced by very little traffic. The road eventually leads to the Nkhotakota Game Reserve, which also had a more direct sealed route. Tilled land in abundance, ready for the rain.
I'd just missed the less ubiquitous bakkie. Ute in common parlance. Fortunately a truck with a spacious flatbed trailer pulled up minutes later and with the help of a few local women roadside vendors up went the bike and we fastened it down. They remonstrated my rather meagre remuneration for their few minutes efforts but nothing came of it. It was one of those scenarios where you have too little or too much and there ain't no change coming back. It turned out I was human cargo number 5 squeezed into the sleeper compartment with a mum and baby in the passenger seat as well. The ultimate side hustle where motorised transport is multi modal.
Malawians need to take a leaf out of the Botswanain libertarian approach. "We told you there was wildlife, you were stupid enough to ride your bike." The sole, and grumpy, elephant might have halted proceedings briefly but not disastrously. I disembarked at the game park exit and made my way into Nkhotakota and budget guesthouse. The 5x more expensive option was better but not that much.Les mer