The job of cycle touring

There are certain things that make a day of cycle touring memorable. Seeing beauty - in the landscape but in small corners too. Learning something new. Making a new friend, even if only temporary. Eating a dish you have never heard of before, and loving it. Gaining insights into your own culture and values. And at the end of the day, finding a comfortable place to stay, being able to get a good wash (a shower or onsen is a bonus), and eating a nourishing meal, perhaps with a new brand of sake or a bottle of Sapporo beer.
The last is what I call the job of cycle touring. It takes planning, research, adaptability and organisation. And time.
First there is the route. We don't often know where we are going next, so there is discussion and research on a good destination. Then choosing which road or track to take. What is the total climb? Is it sealed; if so is there traffic and is it safe for cyclists (road verges etc) and if not is it rideable with our loads. Where are the food shops - do we need to take meals for the day or just snacks. How much water do we need to carry. Is there a campsite at the end?
Laurie uses a couple of apps to help out. We initially work it out using the cycling option on Google Maps, but Google always has to be double-checked as it is not reliable - once it tried to send us on a forest track that was washed away in the 2016 typhoon! It also can't tell the difference between a ride suitable for mountain bikes and young legs vs loaded touring bikes with no suspension and 66 year old legs.
Food and water is mostly not a problem as the famous Japanese Konvini (convenience stores) have everything we need, from shampoo to sake, delectable rice and noodle dishes to fresh smoothies. However every so often there is a 50k gap between stores and the worst thing as a rider is to get hungry and low blood sugar. We always keep bananas and protein bars handy.
Campgrounds in Hokkaido are plentiful at this time of the year, and cost as little as $5 a night. But they are a bit different! Almost none have picnic tables as everyone else brings their own. Virtually none up north had showers, but they were mostly near an onsen which is a lovely alternative. South of Hokkaido showers are usually available at an extra price. All advertise kitchens - but a kitchen means a row of sinks with a cold water tap - not the full kitchen in an Aussie campground. And all have different rubbish disposal rules: generally you buy a rubbish bag (or it's added into the camp fee) and leave it in a little shed.
And usually once a day, lunch or dinner, will be at some tiny restaurant run by people even older than us, who serve unbelievably delicious rice or noodles dishes with local delicacies. If not Laurie cooks up an unbelievably delicious meal in our Trangier from fresh food and stock from the Konvini.
And almost every day we have a delicious Hokkaido Milk ice cream.

And then of course there is the actual ride. Most days something unplanned will make it special - a great local museum, a hike to a stupendous view, a conversation (mostly aided by Google translate) with local people or other travellers. Last night, for example, we were in an old, tiny but superb quality sushi (sashimi) restaurant with just two others, Polish, who will be performing at the World Music Festival today. We'll be in the audience!Read more